Become a Patron!

The Merlin RTA by Augvape and Roxy

OhmzRaw

Silver Contributor
Member For 4 Years
f4943faa954ff496ec1ebc4056e0616e.jpg


This is fast becoming one of my favorite RTA's. Ever since I removed the AFC screw this tank has been nothing but excellent. The airflow is enough for me and the flavor is excellent
 

alexm

Member For 4 Years
amen ...thanks for posting that !
cloners would have that done that a long time ago
I emailed rts and told them that I have two bum bases and asked for info on how to take it apart since I am not shipping them back.
no answer for a week now. . glad you figured it out . that saves me taking a dremel to one if I ruined it
hypnotizing your pictures now ....so how did you support it and punched where to do it ?
more details are appreciated ...thanks for the good work !!!
The fastest way in is to remove the 510 pin and insulator. Grasp the merlin in a vice by the jfc ring (I used vice grips wrapped in duct tape). Insert a screw driver, drill bit, etc into the 510 hole and tap the base out with a hammer. Mine took a couple of violent taps. I'd use a drill bit or dowel to avoid damaging the hole that the 510 pin screws into.

The hidden oring is on the bottom of the jfc ring between the jfc and afc.

To reassemble either reverse that or use the socket method described earlier in this thread.

85f3a0f624aa179ac953f968a2ce997b.jpg


Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk
 

Attachments

  • uploadfromtaptalk1467465176951.jpg
    uploadfromtaptalk1467465176951.jpg
    97.5 KB · Views: 50

Chainvapor

Silver Contributor
Member For 4 Years
ECF Refugee
I just ordered 2 of the Merlin tanks from Eccigity.com yesterday. Does anyone know which version they are selling? I did not read this post in time to check before I ordered. I hope they are selling the V2 base with these because otherwise I am going to be pretty pissed off if it leaks. If anyone knows, please advise. Thank you!

Sincerely,
Mr. Chainvapor
 

JuicyLucy

My name is Lucy and I am a squonkaholic
VU Donator
Diamond Contributor
ECF Refugee
VU Challenge Team
Member For 5 Years
I just ordered 2 of the Merlin tanks from Eccigity.com yesterday. Does anyone know which version they are selling? I did not read this post in time to check before I ordered. I hope they are selling the V2 base with these because otherwise I am going to be pretty pissed off if it leaks. If anyone knows, please advise. Thank you!

Sincerely,
Mr. Chainvapor

I have no idea but...not everybody has leak issues with the first batch.

I have 13 merlins from the first batch (only three have been built and in active rotation) and none leak a drop so far.

The one's I haven't built are not loose. I need to spend a few hours with these unbuilt ones, build them, fill them with pure pg and see what happens.
 

Chainvapor

Silver Contributor
Member For 4 Years
ECF Refugee
I have no idea but...not everybody has leak issues with the first batch.

I have 13 merlins from the first batch (only three have been built and in active rotation) and none leak a drop so far.

The one's I haven't built are not loose. I need to spend a few hours with these unbuilt ones, build them, fill them with pure pg and see what happens.

Thank you for the info! I will keep my fingers crossed! A little leaking really would not bother me if it was on the outside. The fact that people are getting seepage around the 510 connection is what has me worried. If this tank leaked into 1 of my mods and killed it, I would probably throw the tank against a wall HARD! I will have to make sure to use a mech mod or old crappy regulated mod with it for awhile until I feel comfortable enough that mine do not leak.

Thank you again for the info. It is appreciated!

Sincerely,
Mr. Chainvapor :)
 

dave61

Bronze Contributor
Member For 4 Years
Thank you for the info! I will keep my fingers crossed! A little leaking really would not bother me if it was on the outside. The fact that people are getting seepage around the 510 connection is what has me worried. If this tank leaked into 1 of my mods and killed it, I would probably throw the tank against a wall HARD! I will have to make sure to use a mech mod or old crappy regulated mod with it for awhile until I feel comfortable enough that mine do not leak.

Thank you again for the info. It is appreciated!

Sincerely,
Mr. Chainvapor :)



They dont leak in the 510 pin
All the leaks Ive heard so far are around the outer rim of the AFC
 

JuicyLucy

My name is Lucy and I am a squonkaholic
VU Donator
Diamond Contributor
ECF Refugee
VU Challenge Team
Member For 5 Years
Oh hell yeah. I even made sure my old crappy tanks are up and running - tossed them in the zombie cabinet.

Haha, I discovered a BRAND NEW IN THE WRAPPER 808 threaded Vivi Nova the other day, lol.

I actually have at least 10 old batteries that will fire it too, lol.

Talk about a leaky bitch and a mouth full of juice :confused:
 

rolf 2

Bronze Contributor
Member For 3 Years
Member For 2 Years
ECF Refugee
The fastest way in is to remove the 510 pin and insulator. Grasp the merlin in a vice by the jfc ring (I used vice grips wrapped in duct tape). Insert a screw driver, drill bit, etc into the 510 hole and tap the base out with a hammer. Mine took a couple of violent taps. I'd use a drill bit or dowel to avoid damaging the hole that the 510 pin screws into.

The hidden oring is on the bottom of the jfc ring between the jfc and afc.

To reassemble either reverse that or use the socket method described earlier in this thread.

85f3a0f624aa179ac953f968a2ce997b.jpg


Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk
alexim !
got mine apart with no problem . used a drill bit in a drill press upside down , the blunt edge of the drill bit to go into the hole where the 510 screw and insulator came out.. a few jabs did it .
now trying to figure out wher e leaking could come from .
starting with the bottom piece ...there is an o ring on that part and the afc ring fits over that so that seems to seal just fine.
now the jfc ring has two o rings one for the bottom which might not be sealing to good ????
the other top one seals against the glass .
now to the top deck there is no o ring ...it depends soli on metel to metal press fit ...that could potencely be the culprit to.
will think about it some more . any ideas ???
 

dave61

Bronze Contributor
Member For 4 Years
alexim !
got mine apart with no problem . used a drill bit in a drill press upside down , the blunt edge of the drill bit to go into the hole where the 510 screw and insulator came out.. a few jabs did it .
now trying to figure out wher e leaking could come from .
starting with the bottom piece ...there is an o ring on that part and the afc ring fits over that so that seems to seal just fine.
now the jfc ring has two o rings one for the bottom which might not be sealing to good ????
the other top one seals against the glass .
now to the top deck there is no o ring ...it depends soli on metel to metal press fit ...that could potencely be the culprit to.
will think about it some more . any ideas ???


Maybe placing a rubber washer where its metal to metal ?
Its very likely thats where the seepage comes from as the tank heats up under use
I havent had the time to take one apart yet
 

alexm

Member For 4 Years
Maybe placing a rubber washer where its metal to metal ?
Its very likely thats where the seepage comes from as the tank heats up under use
I havent had the time to take one apart yet
Mine doesn't leak, but does have a bit of airflow when totally closed. I opened mine mostly out of curiosity. As such, I didn't look too closely for where leaks could occur. Could be that I vape at around 12-15w max in this tank and don't get it warm enough to cause enough expansion of the metal to cause an issue.

I did take pics of all the pieces. Perhaps an oring on this lip on the base would assist with any metal on metal seepage from the deck area to the air chamber?

519cdb1183f3c54ab733291ff035b334.jpg


I'll pop it open again later and measure it. Maybe I have the right ring in my collection and can give it try just to see if it's possible.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk
 

rolf 2

Bronze Contributor
Member For 3 Years
Member For 2 Years
ECF Refugee
Maybe placing a rubber washer where its metal to metal ?
Its very likely thats where the seepage comes from as the tank heats up under use
I havent had the time to take one apart yet
dave
that's what I think where the leaks come from to .
ther seems to be a groove on the inside of the base where the deck drops in to ....there must be an o ring which is missing.
 

alexm

Member For 4 Years
I opened and measured. That's 15.5mm.

I stretched an 11 x 1 oring around it and reassembled. The only thing I managed to accomplish was jamming up the JFC.

dc0cef3d9123f203942b43aca92579e4.jpg


I also perfected the disassembly. That's the merlin upside down in a 13/16" spark plug socket with an 11/64" drill bit shoved down the 510 hole. Simple.

0338891e577754456e609f69aa4bdc60.jpg


Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk
 

rolf 2

Bronze Contributor
Member For 3 Years
Member For 2 Years
ECF Refugee
Mine doesn't leak, but does have a bit of airflow when totally closed. I opened mine mostly out of curiosity. As such, I didn't look too closely for where leaks could occur. Could be that I vape at around 12-15w max in this tank and don't get it warm enough to cause enough expansion of the metal to cause an issue.

I did take pics of all the pieces. Perhaps an oring on this lip on the base would assist with any metal on metal seepage from the deck area to the air chamber?

519cdb1183f3c54ab733291ff035b334.jpg


I'll pop it open again later and measure it. Maybe I have the right ring in my collection and can give it try just to see if it's possible.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk
alexm
now we are getting somewhere !
what is that white insert in your picture ? looks like a silicone insert ! don't have that in mine .
seems it is a special washer type /o ring ..
sure wont be able to buy that . probably have to cast one .
 

dave61

Bronze Contributor
Member For 4 Years
I opened and measured. That's 15.5mm.

I stretched an 11 x 1 oring around it and reassembled. The only thing I managed to accomplish was jamming up the JFC.

dc0cef3d9123f203942b43aca92579e4.jpg


I also perfected the disassembly. That's the merlin upside down in a 13/16" spark plug socket with an 11/64" drill bit shoved down the 510 hole. Simple.

0338891e577754456e609f69aa4bdc60.jpg


Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk



Im thinking a thin washer or silicone the whole bottom with food grade silicone

Anything thick will either jam up the works or be torn when you turn the juice control or air flow rings
 

dave61

Bronze Contributor
Member For 4 Years
Mine doesn't leak, but does have a bit of airflow when totally closed. I opened mine mostly out of curiosity. As such, I didn't look too closely for where leaks could occur. Could be that I vape at around 12-15w max in this tank and don't get it warm enough to cause enough expansion of the metal to cause an issue.

I did take pics of all the pieces. Perhaps an oring on this lip on the base would assist with any metal on metal seepage from the deck area to the air chamber?

519cdb1183f3c54ab733291ff035b334.jpg


I'll pop it open again later and measure it. Maybe I have the right ring in my collection and can give it try just to see if it's possible.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk


A strange occurrence
With a 2.5mm clapton 28/34 coil at 20 watts and above with JFC almost closed no seepage at all
Below 20 watts especially down to around 12 to 15 watts seepage is really bad

a thought with JFC open any large amount the tank is allowing overflow to where the metal to metal is and allowing the seepage at wattage lower than what can evaporate all the juice

So Im thinking also it has to do with the metal to metal where there should be a washer or oring
 

iVape

Silver Contributor
Member For 5 Years
I am just about ready to throw in the towel with this RTA. I have tried countless builds in various different sizes. Different kinds of wicking methods and materials. All with an end result of lack of flavor. I don't get any burnt or any kind of leaking on this tank just lack of flavor. The tank and tip also seem to get hot if I go above 35 W. I am at a loss right now.
 

Heartsdelight

VU Donator
Diamond Contributor
Member For 5 Years
I am just about ready to throw in the towel with this RTA. I have tried countless builds in various different sizes. Different kinds of wicking methods and materials. All with an end result of lack of flavor. I don't get any burnt or any kind of leaking on this tank just lack of flavor. The tank and tip also seem to get hot if I go above 35 W. I am at a loss right now.
Did you try a simple coil, like 28g or 26g with 3.00 - 3.5mm id with the coils being mounted as high up/top of coil level with posts?
 

alexm

Member For 4 Years
alexm
now we are getting somewhere !
what is that white insert in your picture ? looks like a silicone insert ! don't have that in mine .
seems it is a special washer type /o ring ..
sure wont be able to buy that . probably have to cast one .
I believe it's a peek insulator that keeps the 510 post from shorting against the bottom of the deck. There is another insulator under the positive post on the deck as well.



Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk
 

alexm

Member For 4 Years
I am just about ready to throw in the towel with this RTA. I have tried countless builds in various different sizes. Different kinds of wicking methods and materials. All with an end result of lack of flavor. I don't get any burnt or any kind of leaking on this tank just lack of flavor. The tank and tip also seem to get hot if I go above 35 W. I am at a loss right now.
If you're serious about throwing in the towel I'll gladly trade a new-in-box stainless Alleria (v1) for your used Merlin.

That offer stands for anyone who simply doesn't like their Merlin.

I like the Alleria, but not enough to have several spares.



Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk
 

rolf 2

Bronze Contributor
Member For 3 Years
Member For 2 Years
ECF Refugee
Im thinking a thin washer or silicone the whole bottom with food grade silicone

Anything thick will either jam up the works or be torn when you turn the juice control or air flow rings
dave
I think I found a washer which will work ..put it on the shoulder of the deck .took some pictures of it
also using some food grade paste to lube some of the lower parts.
I could try that on the oring before I press fit it back in , or I could use some aquarium silicone to .
 

Heartsdelight

VU Donator
Diamond Contributor
Member For 5 Years
I did. It was ok. This should be able to handle some more advanced coils though. Didnt get this to throw a simple build into it. Im not biting just venting lol
I used a 26/32 Clapton both kanthal & ss316L, 3mm id 6-7 wraps spaced I forgot exactly same thing up high close to post wicked with rayon. Flavor was great. Keep trying, I'm sure you'll get it worked out. Too nice of a rta to give up.

My issues are worst the seeping ring on the bottom of the mod. Hopefully the guys who are tearing the base apart will get it figured out.
 

dave61

Bronze Contributor
Member For 4 Years
dave
I think I found a washer which will work ..put it on the shoulder of the deck .took some pictures of it
also using some food grade paste to lube some of the lower parts.
I could try that on the oring before I press fit it back in , or I could use some aquarium silicone to .


I personally thing you have cured the problem
As long as the washer is thin enough to allow proper operation of the juice control
i like your idea
 

rolf 2

Bronze Contributor
Member For 3 Years
Member For 2 Years
ECF Refugee
My gawd man what is that two handed mod in the back! :eek:




I LIKE IT! :D
trollragon
me likum to ! its a 4 18650 wpm ..great for testing things out ...not to good for shirt pocket !!!
find myselv vaping it more and more at home
the center one is a 2 18650 one and has a t 10 , building one like it with the smart pwm 2.1 same chip like in the bid bazooka
the other is a sx 350 about two years old.
 

shawn.hoefer

Gold Contributor
Member For 4 Years
trollragon
me likum to ! its a 4 18650 wpm ..great for testing things out ...not to good for shirt pocket !!!
find myselv vaping it more and more at home
the center one is a 2 18650 one and has a t 10 , building one like it with the smart pwm 2.1 same chip like in the bid bazooka
the other is a sx 350 about two years old.
418650 words per minute! Man that thing can type!!

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N910A using Tapatalk
 

rolf 2

Bronze Contributor
Member For 3 Years
Member For 2 Years
ECF Refugee
I personally thing you have cured the problem
As long as the washer is thin enough to allow proper operation of the juice control
i like your idea
dave
I think I am getting somewhere to no leaks so far but said that to many times before
another problem crept up so ....did not fire ~!! ...it helps to put the pos pin back in ..lol
but there is the problem..now it does not want to catch the thread of the pin ..crank it down on the mod and makes contact to vape it for now .
what juice control ?? all it does is move the treads on glass ..loosen or tighten to open or close the juice opening .
what am I missing ?
so now we know where the leak is coming from we have to work on the o ring seal . ...at least I am hoping.
 

dave61

Bronze Contributor
Member For 4 Years
dave
I think I am getting somewhere to no leaks so far but said that to many times before
another problem crept up so ....did not fire ~!! ...it helps to put the pos pin back in ..lol
but there is the problem..now it does not want to catch the thread of the pin ..crank it down on the mod and makes contact to vape it for now .
what juice control ?? all it does is move the treads on glass ..loosen or tighten to open or close the juice opening .
what am I missing ?
so now we know where the leak is coming from we have to work on the o ring seal . ...at least I am hoping.


In the case of the pin not wanting to catch the threads means the oring you used was to thick
Whats needed is a washer of plastic or something that the juice wont destroy as thin as aluminum foil
That way the pin should be able to thread back in
 

alexm

Member For 4 Years
but there is the problem..now it does not want to catch the thread of the pin ..crank it down on the mod and makes contact to vape it for now .
what juice control ?? all it does is move the treads on glass ..loosen or tighten to open or close the juice opening .
what am I missing ?
I had the exact same problems, including the pos pin. Adding the oring raised the deck just enough that it wouldn't catch.

I'd try disassembling the top of the deck first to see if you can squeeze an extra 1/2mm or so out of the airflow tube somehow with a washer or maybe just repositioning the positive post.



Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk
 

rolf 2

Bronze Contributor
Member For 3 Years
Member For 2 Years
ECF Refugee
In the case of the pin not wanting to catch the threads means the oring you used was to thick
Whats needed is a washer of plastic or something that the juice wont destroy as thin as aluminum foil
That way the pin should be able to thread back in
that's what I figured
took it out washed everything with 99% dryed and smeared aquarium silicon on sides and bottom ...had enough oxygen on there to cure might take a little longer ...so tomorrow is onother day .
 

dave61

Bronze Contributor
Member For 4 Years
that's what I figured
took it out washed everything with 99% dryed and smeared aquarium silicon on sides and bottom ...had enough oxygen on there to cure might take a little longer ...so tomorrow is onother day .


That may work
All thats needed is about a thousandth and a half just enough to seal it
 

TrollDragon

Silver Contributor
Member For 4 Years
ECF Refugee
My replacement base came from STS and it works perferctly! Full size juice hole version with a stiff turning AFC.

I put the sockets to the other base and snugged it up in my vise. The top side socket was a smidgen too small and it bothered a few threads so I need to clean them up. I have not tried the pressed base since the new one arrived.
 

TrollDragon

Silver Contributor
Member For 4 Years
ECF Refugee
trollragon
me likum to ! its a 4 18650 wpm ..great for testing things out ...not to good for shirt pocket !!!
find myselv vaping it more and more at home
the center one is a 2 18650 one and has a t 10 , building one like it with the smart pwm 2.1 same chip like in the bid bazooka
the other is a sx 350 about two years old.
Nice! Very Nice!

I was piffed a pair of Hanna DNA 30 boards with no screens a while back, so I put them into a pair of Hammond cases. Good little tootle mods.
L9pgMavl.jpg
 

52anddone

Bronze Contributor
Member For 3 Years
Member For 2 Years
I got my replacement base from STS Friday and have been working with it ever since. The replacement base is a V2 and doesn't leak a smidgen, not a drop. All I get is some condensation, that's all. The AFC ring is tighter than on my V1 base, but still lets a bunch of air thru when closed, so no change there. I just work a Black Colored "Vape Band" around the base so the Closed Air Slots are completely covered by the Vape Band, then take a plastic tooth pic and slide it between the Vape Band and the top of my Presa 100 to adjust air flow. Works pretty good, but still wish the air slots were designed to close off the air completely. My Leaking has STOPPED though with the V2 replacement base, that's the all important aspect for me. I also mounted my V1 base upside down in a SVD2 18650 tube and then placed a 9/16" socket on the bottom of the base and gave it a few good raps with a plastic Inertia Bullet Puller (hammer style), but haven't tried it out yet to see if it still leaks, but I'll get to it. alexm, dave61, rolf 2, Ya'll have been do'in some good R&D on the Merlin base that I now might try IF my V1 base is still a leaker. My Merlin has some of the best flavor I have gotten from any RTA yet (equal to my Taifun and Erlk), that's why I kept on trying to get it up and running to my liking, the flavor is just too good for me to abandon this RTA because of all the other issues. BTW, the 4 set screws in the posts of the V2 deck were so tight that I feel that their screw gun was set for ft.Lbs instead of in.Lbs, I still haven't gotten one of the top set screws out, as I have a very nice set of hardened Allen Wrenches (Metric and SAE) and have to be careful to not strip the soft Allen sockets of these cheap set screws (I'm gonna try to find some that are of a higher quality and replace mine, IF I can get the one out that is). The QC department should ALL be fired. This could have been a really Sweet RTA, for Everyone, if it weren't for the shitty QC, the Design sure is Top Notch. I'll keep reading and watching ya'lls progress on the base as I want to get many more Merlin's just because they are so flavorful, and that's with my Unflavored mix, I can't imagine what the flavor would be like with the juice that some of you run, it must be Crazy Good.

iVape, is it possible that you are just packing too much wicking into you're coil and muting the flavor ??
 
Last edited:

rolf 2

Bronze Contributor
Member For 3 Years
Member For 2 Years
ECF Refugee
Nice! Very Nice!

I was piffed a pair of Hanna DNA 30 boards with no screens a while back, so I put them into a pair of Hammond cases. Good little tootle mods.
L9pgMavl.jpg
jes they are a good little chip got two mod with the dna 20 and one with dna 30 . still working great ...I am allways under 20 watts any how.
 

VU Sponsors

Top