Amps on regulated mod

[subvapor]

I just got my x cube ultra and 2 20 amp battery. I understand amps on a mech mod somewhat but do they matter on a regulated device. I have 2 35 amp battery but they die pretty fast and the 20 amp ones have 500 more mah. The 20 amps are 3.6 volts the 35 amps are 3.7 volts. Is there a big difference between them?

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[nightshard]

You should be fine up to 120W with your 20A batteries.
There are no 35A batteries.

Hard to answer a specific question about batteries unless you specify an exact make and model.

 

[lordmage]

when it comes to tru amp rating in a regulated if your ohms pulls to much then your battery will did faster. YMMV

 

[OBDave]

I just got my x cube ultra and 2 20 amp battery. I understand amps on a mech mod somewhat but do they matter on a regulated device. I have 2 35 amp battery but they die pretty fast and the 20 amp ones have 500 more mah. The 20 amps are 3.6 volts the 35 amps are 3.7 volts. Is there a big difference between them?

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Hokay, so...

There once was a time when amps didn't matter on regulated devices, but with all the newer ones (within the last year or so) promising 200+ watts, it can matter if you're planning on pushing your limits. As @nightshard said, you're not going to be able to go much above 120 watts with 20 amp batteries. And there's no such thing as a 35 amp cell - if you're lucky you have 20 amp cells with a 35 amp fake wrapper, if not they could be cells rated as low as 8 amp. I don't like fake battery wrappers, and there's no reason to buy from them when legit companies (Samsung, LG, Sony) sell cheaper than the bogus brands (Efest, MXJO, etc.).

Also, both of your batteries will take a full charge of 4.2 volts. They'll quickly drop off, though, and spend most of their operating life at 3.7 volts, when they drop below this it's time to change them out for a fresh set charged to 4.2.

There's a huge difference between real batteries and fake batteries - the real ones are safe when used within spec, the fake ones are PROBABLY safe if you pretend they're rated for 20 amp instead of whatever they claim.

 

[subvapor]

Hokay, so...

There once was a time when amps didn't matter on regulated devices, but with all the newer ones (within the last year or so) promising 200+ watts, it can matter if you're planning on pushing your limits. As @nightshard said, you're not going to be able to go much above 120 watts with 20 amp batteries. And there's no such thing as a 35 amp cell - if you're lucky you have 20 amp cells with a 35 amp fake wrapper, if not they could be cells rated as low as 8 amp. I don't like fake battery wrappers, and there's no reason to buy from them when legit companies (Samsung, LG, Sony) sell cheaper than the bogus brands (Efest, MXJO, etc.).

Also, both of your batteries will take a full charge of 4.2 volts. They'll quickly drop off, though, and spend most of their operating life at 3.7 volts, when they drop below this it's time to change them out for a fresh set charged to 4.2.

There's a huge difference between real batteries and fake batteries - the real ones are safe when used within spec, the fake ones are PROBABLY safe if you pretend they're rated for 20 amp instead of whatever they claim.

this r the ones that clam to be 35 amps is there a way to see what there amps really are I was using 3 in my rx200 hitting it a the clam to be 250 watts most of the time the other ones have no name here is there pic

and thanks for the info

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[OBDave]

I forget which, but I believe Sigelei uses a 20a cell they repackage as 35a. The second, just from the color, appear to be LG HG2 cells, which are rated at 20a and 3000 mah, a pretty popular choice and what I'm vaping on as I type...

 

[subvapor]

Thanks I'm currently using the 3000 mah ones you were a big help

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[nightshard]

The top battery is a Sigelei ""35A"" which is a rewrapped 20A there were several different cells used so it's hard to know which one you have and what's the actual capacity (anywhere between 2100 to 2500 mAh).
The lower battery is LG HG2 20A 3000 mAh which is a better option assuming they are authentic.

 

[spktkpkt]

Here you can find a good battery overview. "Mfr" tells you the manufacturer's specifications, "Mooch" the tested specifications.