Become a Patron!

Anthony Vapes Presents: Vaping Safety 101

SirRichardRear

AKA Anthony Vapes on Youtube
VU Donator
Diamond Contributor
Member For 3 Years
Reviewer
I made this video to explain to people safe limits of their batteries and how to calculate amp draw on their batteries. I figured this was the right place to put it. maybe a moderator (@nightshard ) could sticky it if they feel it's appropriate?
(youtube description below)
Stay safe out there vapors!
I wanted to talk about safety and how to understand your device and how to calculate the amp draw on your batteries
Remember to always pick good batteries based on Moochs Rating not whats on the wrapper!

Moochs Recommend Batteries https://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/blog-entry/moochs-recommended-batteries.7593/


Always Use married Batteries! batteries that are the same exact ones that were purchased together, used together, and charged together at all times for devices that take multiple batteries

best options from his list (18650)
20 amp = Samsung 30Q
25 amp = Sony VCT5a
30 amp = Lg HB6
Buy from legit sites only like illumn.com liionwholesale.com and IMRbatteries.com.
Don't buy batteries off ebay or amazon!

Regulated Device Formula for Battery amp Draw
P(watts)/V(nominal voltage)=I(amps)
typical safety measure is 75 watts per 20 amp battery for regulated devices with

For unregulated/mech mods
use ohms law calculator
http://www.ohmslawcalculator.com/ohms-law-calculator
for series use voltage 8.4 and current as your batteries CDR rating
for single battery use voltage 4.2 and your current as your batteires CDR
for parallel use voltage 4.2 and one batteries current times 1.5 (example a pair of 30 amp batteries would be good for 45 amps because 30 times 1.5 = 45)
General rule 30 amp batteries lowest safe resistance
dual series .28
dual parallel .09
single battery .14
General rule 20 amp batteries lowest safe resistance
dual series .42
dual parallel .14
single battery .21
General rule 25 amp batteries lowest safe resistance
dual series .34
dual parallel .11
single battery .17

Like and subscribe if you don't mind.
Follow me on
Twitter @vapes_anthony
Facebook https://www.facebook.com/anthony.vapes.90
 

Dbro84

Member For 3 Years
Member For 2 Years
Member For 1 Year
I made this video to explain to people safe limits of their batteries and how to calculate amp draw on their batteries. I figured this was the right place to put it. maybe a moderator (@nightshard ) could sticky it if they feel it's appropriate?
(youtube description below)
Stay safe out there vapors!
I wanted to talk about safety and how to understand your device and how to calculate the amp draw on your batteries
Remember to always pick good batteries based on Moochs Rating not whats on the wrapper!

Moochs Recommend Batteries https://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/blog-entry/moochs-recommended-batteries.7593/


Always Use married Batteries! batteries that are the same exact ones that were purchased together, used together, and charged together at all times for devices that take multiple batteries

best options from his list (18650)
20 amp = Samsung 30Q
25 amp = Sony VCT5a
30 amp = Lg HB6
Buy from legit sites only like illumn.com liionwholesale.com and IMRbatteries.com.
Don't buy batteries off ebay or amazon!

Regulated Device Formula for Battery amp Draw
P(watts)/V(nominal voltage)=I(amps)
typical safety measure is 75 watts per 20 amp battery for regulated devices with

For unregulated/mech mods
use ohms law calculator
http://www.ohmslawcalculator.com/ohms-law-calculator
for series use voltage 8.4 and current as your batteries CDR rating
for single battery use voltage 4.2 and your current as your batteires CDR
for parallel use voltage 4.2 and one batteries current times 1.5 (example a pair of 30 amp batteries would be good for 45 amps because 30 times 1.5 = 45)
General rule 30 amp batteries lowest safe resistance
dual series .28
dual parallel .09
single battery .14
General rule 20 amp batteries lowest safe resistance
dual series .42
dual parallel .14
single battery .21
General rule 25 amp batteries lowest safe resistance
dual series .34
dual parallel .11
single battery .17

Like and subscribe if you don't mind.
Follow me on
Twitter @vapes_anthony
Facebook https://www.facebook.com/anthony.vapes.90
Nice video helps out a lot thanks
 

Rabbit Slayer

Silver Contributor
Member For 3 Years
Member For 2 Years
Member For 1 Year
ECF Refugee
it's what he does for a living. he tests batteries for vaping use in his spare time for the vaping community. he is a battery expert for sure
Sorry but I don't take fanbois at their word... Can anyone else confirm this?
 

SirRichardRear

AKA Anthony Vapes on Youtube
VU Donator
Diamond Contributor
Member For 3 Years
Reviewer
Sorry but I don't take fanbois at their word... Can anyone else confirm this?
fanboy of what exactly? he's a fanboy of a battery manufacturer?
Who the hell am I to tell you what a battery's rating is?
Published by Mooch in the blog Mooch's blog. Views: 1432

Do I have the qualifications to be doing stuff like this? Some say that I don't.

You be the judge.

Since 1992 I have been designing and building electronic devices for a large number of clients. My first products were camera remote-control systems for sports photographers. As these systems, and other devices, transitioned from wired to wireless the performance of the batteries they used was very important as there was no way to replace them during use. This led to me doing more and more battery testing and developing the electronics to charge, test, and protect them.

As battery technology advanced, from NiCd to NiMH to Li-Ion and now ultracapacitor/Li-Ion hybrids, the devices I built and the battery testing I did advanced along with them. I started specializing in power management electronics; battery chargers, energy harvesters (for charging from heat, light, or vibration/movement), power supplies, battery analyzers, electronic loads for battery discharging, and battery management/protection systems. This is the work I still do today.

My clients have included the US Army, National Geographic, Sports Illustrated, Eastman Kodak Company, and hundreds of other companies from large to small. Part of the work I've done for a lot of my clients has been battery testing. Sometimes they want to recommend a good battery to their customers. Other times they're batteries I have chosen to combine with my electronics to form a complete, protected power source for them to incorporate into their products.

Depending on my client's requirements this testing can take up to several weeks to complete. I use a subset of these tests when evaluating the batteries we use when vaping. This includes continuous-current tests to establish the battery's true (and safe) ratings. They also help to determine if there's any risk of venting if one of our mods autofires or a mechanical mod's button is accidentally pressed. The pulse-current tests measure the degree of voltage sag we would see when vaping at different current levels. Both types of tests are done the same way for every set of batteries I test, over 110 different ones to date (almost 400 batteries total).

This consistency in the testing allows for direct comparison of the performance of different batteries even if the pulse discharging I do doesn't match the way you vape.

Safety is my number one priority. While I often test at discharge current levels that can result in unsafe battery temperatures, this is the only way to figure out what a battery's true and safe ratings are. No battery is totally safe but we can certainly avoid taking unnecessary risks.

This is critical.

There is a huge difference between a battery's rating and a capability of the battery. You might be able to vape with a battery at 40A but that doesn't make 40A the battery's rating. It's just something the battery can do without venting. You still don't how the battery performs compared to others, how much the battery is being damaged, or what the safe limits are.

A rating is different from a capability because it uses a set of important criteria to establish the rating. Things like temperature, voltage when discharging, cycle life (how many times it can be charged/discharged) are defined and limits are set. This allows for direct comparison of the performance of different batteries and is how I test. The tests determine not only the safety limits of the battery but also the performance limits when vaping.

In my blog at ECF I have listed the equipment I use and the steps I follow when testing. This allows anyone to replicate my tests if they want to:

My cell testing equipment and setup | E-Cigarette Forum

What's done for each cell test? | E-Cigarette Forum

Does all this make me some kind of battery expert? Hell no. But I do feel I am qualified to do this testing. My results offer you a resource you can use when choosing a battery that will not only be safe for the way you vape but will also give you great performance.

If there's something you don't like about the testing or the ratings/performance tables, let me know! I'd be happy to read what you have to say and discuss it with you. Over the past few months the feedback I've gotten has resulted in some good changes to the tables to make them less confusing and easier to read.

Each of us has to decide which battery tester's results we will use. Different testers use different criteria when setting a rating or when comparing batteries. Find out how they test, compare their results, and pick the tester you trust the most with the batteries you use.

Thanks for your time!
Mooch
He also has all the links to the charts for his testing so you can see each individual test
 

Rabbit Slayer

Silver Contributor
Member For 3 Years
Member For 2 Years
Member For 1 Year
ECF Refugee

Nice icon and sig...are you Anthony Vapes, if not why are you claiming his videos as yours own?
and if it isnt you maybe you should remove the title of that video and just keep the link to avoid confusion
 

Rabbit Slayer

Silver Contributor
Member For 3 Years
Member For 2 Years
Member For 1 Year
ECF Refugee
I'm telling you that I Sir Richard Rear am in fact Anthony Vapes. That is me in the video talking

it's what he does for a living. he tests batteries for vaping use in his spare time for the vaping community. he is a battery expert for sure
I don't trust people that talk about themselves in the third person
 

SirRichardRear

AKA Anthony Vapes on Youtube
VU Donator
Diamond Contributor
Member For 3 Years
Reviewer
I don't trust people that talk about themselves in the third person
I was referring to mooch not myself who is a different person then me since that was the video that you posted.
All my battery ratings are from mooch hence the links. I did not talk about myself in the 3rd person.
You posted a video of mooch and asked who is this guy so i explained who mooch was.
 

Rabbit Slayer

Silver Contributor
Member For 3 Years
Member For 2 Years
Member For 1 Year
ECF Refugee
I was referring to mooch not myself who is a different person then me since that was the video that you posted.
All my battery ratings are from mooch hence the links. I did not talk about myself in the 3rd person.
You posted a video of mooch and asked who is this guy so i explained who mooch was.
I know who Mooch is and have posted links to his info, but I see my error in wording that post and fixed it
 

Rabbit Slayer

Silver Contributor
Member For 3 Years
Member For 2 Years
Member For 1 Year
ECF Refugee
So, who are YOU and what are your qualifications in the battery world? :D
 

lordmage

The Sky has Fallen. the End is Here.
Staff member
Senior Moderator
VU Donator
Gold Contributor
ECF Refugee
Member For 5 Years
Who is anybody these days we are all keyboard and video cowboys pretty soon the Government will tell us all when to wake up.

:D Who are you to ask who Are you. are you the government :D i kid
 

SirRichardRear

AKA Anthony Vapes on Youtube
VU Donator
Diamond Contributor
Member For 3 Years
Reviewer
So, who are YOU and what are your qualifications in the battery world? :D
I don't consider myself a battery expert hence the reason i use moochs ratings for the batteries.
outside of that I work in the power generation field, i have worked on UPS systems, Solar, Generators (including resistive load bank testing), ATS's but my main field is IT and networking. due to being in this field and having many friends in it, I've learned mechanics/engines (work on my own cars), low voltage (phone systems, switch boards etc), electricity (home wiring and industrial wiring) and a few other tricks of the trade.
outside of that though, to be honest all those skills are pretty irrelevant and not needed as all the information i provided is readily available as long as you understand how to read it. I explain that in the video I don't claim to be an expert by any means, however my working knowledge of UPS systems has many similarities to the tech used in regulated mods.

also you can read here http://vapingunderground.com/thread...for-subohm-no-batterries.275951/#post-1375486
where I helped this guy with his design of an A/C plug in mod ;) if you wanted some sort of proof that i know what I'm talking about lol
 

SirRichardRear

AKA Anthony Vapes on Youtube
VU Donator
Diamond Contributor
Member For 3 Years
Reviewer
Who is that guy and what are his qualifications?
Edit
here is someone the community already trusts, watch this video instead
FYI i absolutely trust mooch hence why i link to and use his ratings. what he doesn't explain is how amp draw is calculated in regulated devices and mech devices and how they differ. what my goal with the video was , was to explain that and provide safe limits in an easy to understand format for the average joe. to teach people how to calculate the amp draw on their mod and to give safe low limits for common mod set ups. anyone can look at this post and easily fine a guideline to what they need in 1 easy spot. Also by doing so I have a running thread where when people come and ask questions on amperage and such i can link back to this instead of retyping out the same explanations over and over as I've done in the past. I don't think his video automatically trumps the one i posted as it's 2 separate things being discussed. I don't talk about how the batteries get their rating, i talk about how to calculate your amp draw on what you are using and how to stay safe. mooch already gives us the safest batteries
 

Rabbit Slayer

Silver Contributor
Member For 3 Years
Member For 2 Years
Member For 1 Year
ECF Refugee
That is the only good thing about ECF, Mooch actually posts there all the time answering questions and has a ton of reference material on that site
 

SirRichardRear

AKA Anthony Vapes on Youtube
VU Donator
Diamond Contributor
Member For 3 Years
Reviewer
I purchased my batteries off of amazon, they have samsung stampings should i be worried?
Possibly. it's really hit or miss and fakes are hard to tell sometimes. they could be real or maybe not. thats the risk. buying from battery sites means you will always get authentics.
If you had pics you could compare them online
 

conanthewarrior

Gold Contributor
Member For 4 Years
I made this video to explain to people safe limits of their batteries and how to calculate amp draw on their batteries. I figured this was the right place to put it. maybe a moderator (@nightshard ) could sticky it if they feel it's appropriate?
(youtube description below)
Stay safe out there vapors!
I wanted to talk about safety and how to understand your device and how to calculate the amp draw on your batteries
Remember to always pick good batteries based on Moochs Rating not whats on the wrapper!

Moochs Recommend Batteries https://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/blog-entry/moochs-recommended-batteries.7593/


Always Use married Batteries! batteries that are the same exact ones that were purchased together, used together, and charged together at all times for devices that take multiple batteries

best options from his list (18650)
20 amp = Samsung 30Q
25 amp = Sony VCT5a
30 amp = Lg HB6
Buy from legit sites only like illumn.com liionwholesale.com and IMRbatteries.com.
Don't buy batteries off ebay or amazon!

Regulated Device Formula for Battery amp Draw
P(watts)/V(nominal voltage)=I(amps)
typical safety measure is 75 watts per 20 amp battery for regulated devices with

For unregulated/mech mods
use ohms law calculator
http://www.ohmslawcalculator.com/ohms-law-calculator
for series use voltage 8.4 and current as your batteries CDR rating
for single battery use voltage 4.2 and your current as your batteires CDR
for parallel use voltage 4.2 and one batteries current times 1.5 (example a pair of 30 amp batteries would be good for 45 amps because 30 times 1.5 = 45)
General rule 30 amp batteries lowest safe resistance
dual series .28
dual parallel .09
single battery .14
General rule 20 amp batteries lowest safe resistance
dual series .42
dual parallel .14
single battery .21
General rule 25 amp batteries lowest safe resistance
dual series .34
dual parallel .11
single battery .17

Like and subscribe if you don't mind.
Follow me on
Twitter @vapes_anthony
Facebook https://www.facebook.com/anthony.vapes.90
Thank you for doing this- it will be a help to a lot of people, and also should help in regards to the mistake we see a lot round here- the standard Ohms law calculation being used for calculating amp load on a battery/ batteries in a regulated mod.

The only thing I could suggest, which I am sure you are aware of, is that as voltage falls, amp load increases in a regulated mod. I always calculate at cut off voltage instead of nominal voltage to get a maximum figure in regards to amp load, as it can be a fair few amps difference in a triple 18650 set up at 9.6 Vs 11.1V.
 

IMFire3605

Bronze Contributor
Member For 3 Years
Member For 2 Years
Member For 1 Year
ECF Refugee
I purchased my batteries off of amazon, they have samsung stampings should i be worried?

In general buying batteries off Amazon and Ebay are a bad idea, most of the cloned batteries are sold there by people with less morales than your typical career US Politician. Torchy The Battery Boy is one vendor I suggest to people in the UK and EU, as he is the UK's Mooch, but he also sells the batteries he's tested and vetted. Buyer beware, so do your research on vendors on Amazon and Ebay very thoroughly.

@SirRichardRear
Regulated Device Formula for Battery amp Draw
P(watts)/V(nominal voltage)=I(amps)
typical safety measure is 75 watts per 20 amp battery for regulated devices with

That is typically wrong of 75watts on a 20amp battery, being the low battery cutoff needs to be higher than 3.0 to 3.2 majority of mods cut off at, also not taking the mod chipset efficiency into account in the calculation. Not calling out, just correcting an error I see, 75watts single battery is 25amp CDR territory, Sony VTC5A, LG HD2, HD4

75/3.2=23.4375/90%=26.0416667
75/3.5=21.4286/90%=23.8095
75/3.7=20.2703/90%=22.5225
75/3.9=19.2308/90%=21.3675
So as you see, can a 20amp do 75 watts yes, but are you going to be happy with the battery life to stay safe, not at all
65/3.2=20.3125/90%=22.5694
65/3.4=19.1176/90%=21.2418
65/3.6=18.0556/90%=20.0617 <- Suggested cutoff for safety
60/3.2=18.75/90%=20.8333 <- Suggested cutoff for safety
 
Last edited:

SirRichardRear

AKA Anthony Vapes on Youtube
VU Donator
Diamond Contributor
Member For 3 Years
Reviewer
Thank you for doing this- it will be a help to a lot of people, and also should help in regards to the mistake we see a lot round here- the standard Ohms law calculation being used for calculating amp load on a battery/ batteries in a regulated mod.

The only thing I could suggest, which I am sure you are aware of, is that as voltage falls, amp load increases in a regulated mod. I always calculate at cut off voltage instead of nominal voltage to get a maximum figure in regards to amp load, as it can be a fair few amps difference in a triple 18650 set up at 9.6 Vs 11.1V.
Yes that is very true. As the batteries get weaker the amp drain increases.

Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk
 

SirRichardRear

AKA Anthony Vapes on Youtube
VU Donator
Diamond Contributor
Member For 3 Years
Reviewer
In general buying batteries off Amazon and Ebay are a bad idea, most of the cloned batteries are sold there by people with less morales than your typical career US Politician. Torchy The Battery Boy is one vendor I suggest to people in the UK and EU, as he is the UK's Mooch, but he also sells the batteries he's tested and vetted. Buyer beware, so do your research on vendors on Amazon and Ebay very thoroughly.

@SirRichardRear
Regulated Device Formula for Battery amp Draw
P(watts)/V(nominal voltage)=I(amps)
typical safety measure is 75 watts per 20 amp battery for regulated devices with

That is typically wrong of 75watts on a 20amp battery, being the low battery cutoff needs to be higher than 3.0 to 3.2 majority of mods cut off at, also not taking the mod chipset efficiency into account in the calculation. Not calling out, just correcting an error I see, 75watts single battery is 25amp CDR territory, Sony VTC5A, LG HD2, HD4

75/3.2=23.4375/90%=26.0416667
75/3.5=21.4286/90%=23.8095
75/3.7=20.2703/90%=22.5225
75/3.9=19.2308/90%=21.3675
So as you see, can a 20amp do 75 watts yes, but are you going to be happy with the battery life to stay safe, not at all
65/3.2=20.3125/90%=22.5694
65/3.4=19.1176/90%=21.2418
65/3.6=18.0556/90%=20.0617 <- Suggested cutoff for safety
60/3.2=18.75/90%=20.8333 <- Suggested cutoff for safety
I explained all that I'm the video as well. Also said how people will say "I'm wrong" cause that's how the internet is lol. It's a safe limit given to people. Just the the 20 amps is overly cautious. Hitting at 21 amps isn't gonna be a huge deal realistically. Plus most boards are more efficient then the 90% you are using. DNA 250 and fsk are 97%+ efficient.

The point of the video was to provide a safe guideline that's easy to understand not over complicate it so people say fuck it and ignore it.

Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk
 

conanthewarrior

Gold Contributor
Member For 4 Years
In general buying batteries off Amazon and Ebay are a bad idea, most of the cloned batteries are sold there by people with less morales than your typical career US Politician. Torchy The Battery Boy is one vendor I suggest to people in the UK and EU, as he is the UK's Mooch, but he also sells the batteries he's tested and vetted. Buyer beware, so do your research on vendors on Amazon and Ebay very thoroughly.

@SirRichardRear
Regulated Device Formula for Battery amp Draw
P(watts)/V(nominal voltage)=I(amps)
typical safety measure is 75 watts per 20 amp battery for regulated devices with

That is typically wrong of 75watts on a 20amp battery, being the low battery cutoff needs to be higher than 3.0 to 3.2 majority of mods cut off at, also not taking the mod chipset efficiency into account in the calculation. Not calling out, just correcting an error I see, 75watts single battery is 25amp CDR territory, Sony VTC5A, LG HD2, HD4

75/3.2=23.4375/90%=26.0416667
75/3.5=21.4286/90%=23.8095
75/3.7=20.2703/90%=22.5225
75/3.9=19.2308/90%=21.3675
So as you see, can a 20amp do 75 watts yes, but are you going to be happy with the battery life to stay safe, not at all
65/3.2=20.3125/90%=22.5694
65/3.4=19.1176/90%=21.2418
65/3.6=18.0556/90%=20.0617 <- Suggested cutoff for safety
60/3.2=18.75/90%=20.8333 <- Suggested cutoff for safety
Are you from the UK? I am myself, and usually buy from batteries plus, and lately somewhere called Fogstar for my batteries.

I do see exactly where you are coming from, and I am glad to see someone else who calculates correctly :). I think @SirRichardRear has done a fantastic guide here though, as the majority of people still calculate for regulated devices incorrectly- as if they was using a mech, and at full charge voltage.

I always calculate for a regulated mod using the lowest voltage- the cutoff voltage. As you have shown, as input voltage falls, amp load increases on the input side, which is the side that matters for our safety calculations.

I usually am happily vaping under 50W though, and this is on a dual/triple 18650 mod- for my single battery devices I try to use a build that needs less power both to give me longer runtime, and also not to go over CDR.
 

IMFire3605

Bronze Contributor
Member For 3 Years
Member For 2 Years
Member For 1 Year
ECF Refugee
I explained all that I'm the video as well. Also said how people will say "I'm wrong" cause that's how the internet is lol. It's a safe limit given to people. Just the the 20 amps is overly cautious. Hitting at 21 amps isn't gonna be a huge deal realistically. Plus most boards are more efficient then the 90% you are using. DNA 250 and fsk are 97%+ efficient.

The point of the video was to provide a safe guideline that's easy to understand not over complicate it so people say fuck it and ignore it.

Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk

True, its not so much the fault of the internet calling BS and such, its the fault of the manufacturers, and ultimately the end users not taking responsibility for their own safety, this is general across all services and products in the current market, almost so bad in fact the "Greed" is greater than the "Common Sense" factor. The chipset efficiency, yes there are more pricier devices with higher efficiency, the Evolv DNA boards as one in the 97 to 98%, but most users are looking for bargain prices, so the cheaper units especially are the lower 90% efficiency, taking those devices into account and to be simplistic myself I blanket it with the lowest denominator, thus 90%. In all honesty, a 75watts device really shouldn't be used constantly at 75 watts anyway, their upper longevity cycle is more in line in the 30 to 60watts range (50 to 75% output) or lower, I tell most customers, need 75 watts you need a 150watt device (2x what you will be asking), that comes from my PC gaming experience, overclock a CPU and motherboard and run them at those overclocked speeds constantly, you'll burn them out in a short life cycle, having to remember most boards are made of a fiber resin plastic that doesn't stand up well to constant heat abuse.
 

IMFire3605

Bronze Contributor
Member For 3 Years
Member For 2 Years
Member For 1 Year
ECF Refugee
Are you from the UK? I am myself, and usually buy from batteries plus, and lately somewhere called Fogstar for my batteries.

I do see exactly where you are coming from, and I am glad to see someone else who calculates correctly :). I think @SirRichardRear has done a fantastic guide here though, as the majority of people still calculate for regulated devices incorrectly- as if they was using a mech, and at full charge voltage.

I always calculate for a regulated mod using the lowest voltage- the cutoff voltage. As you have shown, as input voltage falls, amp load increases on the input side, which is the side that matters for our safety calculations.

I usually am happily vaping under 50W though, and this is on a dual/triple 18650 mod- for my single battery devices I try to use a build that needs less power both to give me longer runtime, and also not to go over CDR.

No, not UK, I'm US, been vaping going on 5years this year come November, 3 of those years I worked in vapor shops, back before Mooch came along Torchy was the is all say all for the most part with a little bit of info on batteries coming from vendors like KidneyPuncher doing debunk tests and the like. Your style of vaping, just the basic Watts/Lowest Volts=Amps would work for you, having worked in retail and vapor shops seen to many times that deer in the head lights stare of your general customer almost 95% of the time, especially with vape products, then the "Nuh Uh, my buddy said this or does this..." type of embarassed cover up reply and such, math doesn't lie so have to hit them with numerical fact. Stinks having major OCD coupled with Bi-polar, this type of general consumer market is getting to be a little bit of a handful to do properly with a smile on your face if you catch my drift.
 

MrScaryZ

VU Donator
Platinum Contributor
Member For 5 Years
giphy.gif
 

SirRichardRear

AKA Anthony Vapes on Youtube
VU Donator
Diamond Contributor
Member For 3 Years
Reviewer
True, its not so much the fault of the internet calling BS and such, its the fault of the manufacturers, and ultimately the end users not taking responsibility for their own safety, this is general across all services and products in the current market, almost so bad in fact the "Greed" is greater than the "Common Sense" factor. The chipset efficiency, yes there are more pricier devices with higher efficiency, the Evolv DNA boards as one in the 97 to 98%, but most users are looking for bargain prices, so the cheaper units especially are the lower 90% efficiency, taking those devices into account and to be simplistic myself I blanket it with the lowest denominator, thus 90%. In all honesty, a 75watts device really shouldn't be used constantly at 75 watts anyway, their upper longevity cycle is more in line in the 30 to 60watts range (50 to 75% output) or lower, I tell most customers, need 75 watts you need a 150watt device (2x what you will be asking), that comes from my PC gaming experience, overclock a CPU and motherboard and run them at those overclocked speeds constantly, you'll burn them out in a short life cycle, having to remember most boards are made of a fiber resin plastic that doesn't stand up well to constant heat abuse.
That's because over clocking is a terrible idea in general. It's like people who change the stock exhaust on their car and lose horse power over it. I do understand where you are coming from and I'm not saying you are wrong cause you aren't and nothing wrong with being extra safe but realistically your mod isn't gonna fire with a weak battery at 75 watts. It's a common issue with the DNA75 board cause it's low efficiency 85% that once your battery is at like 3.5-3.6 volts it's time to change cause you'll get check battery errors. Most regulated mods won't fire before they draw more then 20-25amps from the battery cause when they batteries start being weak they lose power and aren't putting out the watts u think that are.

Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk
 

conanthewarrior

Gold Contributor
Member For 4 Years
No, not UK, I'm US, been vaping going on 5years this year come November, 3 of those years I worked in vapor shops, back before Mooch came along Torchy was the is all say all for the most part with a little bit of info on batteries coming from vendors like KidneyPuncher doing debunk tests and the like. Your style of vaping, just the basic Watts/Lowest Volts=Amps would work for you, having worked in retail and vapor shops seen to many times that deer in the head lights stare of your general customer almost 95% of the time, especially with vape products, then the "Nuh Uh, my buddy said this or does this..." type of embarassed cover up reply and such, math doesn't lie so have to hit them with numerical fact. Stinks having major OCD coupled with Bi-polar, this type of general consumer market is getting to be a little bit of a handful to do properly with a smile on your face if you catch my drift.
Ahh I thought you may of been from the UK mentioning torchy :).

I haven't vaped as long as you- only for around 2 years using a 'real' mod, but in that time I have learnt as much as I possibly can (I am a bit of a fanatic- around 40 Mods and 50+Tanks and RDA's, and too many batteries- mainly 25R's and HE4's, but also some 30Q's and HG2's and even some shock horror Efests lol for my 26650 needs).

You probably won't believe how many people I know, who started to vape after me, some because I did and I am glad they made the switch, that do NOT believe the simple Watts used/Voltage calculation. They always say "But what about resistance!". I try to explain the difference between the input voltage and amp load, and the output V and A load that DOES follow ohms law, but am usually looked at like I have just arrived from mars lol.

I think I know the stare you mean, and the "No, my friend says" from personal experience. Most of the time, it is OK, but sometimes people are going over CDR thinking they are perfectly fine.
 

conanthewarrior

Gold Contributor
Member For 4 Years
That's because over clocking is a terrible idea in general. It's like people who change the stock exhaust on their car and lose horse power over it. I do understand where you are coming from and I'm not saying you are wrong cause you aren't and nothing wrong with being extra safe but realistically your mod isn't gonna fire with a weak battery at 75 watts. It's a common issue with the DNA75 board cause it's low efficiency 85% that once your battery is at like 3.5-3.6 volts it's time to change cause you'll get check battery errors. Most regulated mods won't fire before they draw more then 20-25amps from the battery cause when they batteries start being weak they lose power and aren't putting out the watts u think that are.

Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk
I will be honest- I do not understand overclocking, and I am pretty tech savvy carrying out repairs to computers and phones, that is a world I do not know about lol.

My DNA75 is set at the standard Escribe cutoff of 2.75V, so I haven't actually gotten any weak battery warnings myself, but I do not use it over 40W. This is with a HE4 or 25R.
There was an interesting thread over at the Evolv forums about regulated mods drawing more amps than you would expect, I will have to try and find it. I have a bad memory, but I THINK the DNA75 has a input limit of 28A, that can peak at 32A? I will check the datasheet in a moment, but you can see how it easily will hit this especially if the cutoff is set very low.
EDIT: Yes, 28A constant, 32 pulse.

(This is meant as discussion, not anything else-I sometimes worry text comes across different to speech so may seem rude, I do not mean anything rude or aggressive) :)
 

SirRichardRear

AKA Anthony Vapes on Youtube
VU Donator
Diamond Contributor
Member For 3 Years
Reviewer
I will be honest- I do not understand overclocking, and I am pretty tech savvy carrying out repairs to computers and phones, that is a world I do not know about lol.

My DNA75 is set at the standard Escribe cutoff of 2.75V, so I haven't actually gotten any weak battery warnings myself, but I do not use it over 40W. This is with a HE4 or 25R.
There was an interesting thread over at the Evolv forums about regulated mods drawing more amps than you would expect, I will have to try and find it. I have a bad memory, but I THINK the DNA75 has a input limit of 28A, that can peak at 32A? I will check the datasheet in a moment, but you can see how it easily will hit this especially if the cutoff is set very low.
EDIT: Yes, 28A constant, 32 pulse.

(This is meant as discussion, not anything else-I sometimes worry text comes across different to speech so may seem rude, I do not mean anything rude or aggressive) :)
Next time if possible try and fire it at 75 watts with a low battery and see what u get. I set my low in escribe as 3v personally. Dna boards as is most mods as well don't have a boost feature they only have a buck feature

Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk
 

aquaholic2491

Bronze Contributor
Member For 3 Years
Member For 2 Years
Member For 1 Year
Is this battery trash because the wrapper is cut into? can i throw some electrical tape on it and continue using?

20170114_191419_zpsbkh4snce.jpg
 

SirRichardRear

AKA Anthony Vapes on Youtube
VU Donator
Diamond Contributor
Member For 3 Years
Reviewer
Is this battery trash because the wrapper is cut into? can i throw some electrical tape on it and continue using?

20170114_191419_zpsbkh4snce.jpg
Battery is fine but you should rewrap it. You can buy 100 wraps from fat daddy vapes for like 5 bucks. Should last you a long time lol. And they are nice and thick and fast shipping.
There are tons of videos on how to rewrap a battery on YouTube but I can make one as well

Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk
 

aquaholic2491

Bronze Contributor
Member For 3 Years
Member For 2 Years
Member For 1 Year
Battery is fine but you should rewrap it. You can buy 100 wraps from fat daddy vapes for like 5 bucks. Should last you a long time lol. And they are nice and thick and fast shipping.
There are tons of videos on how to rewrap a battery on YouTube but I can make one as well

Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk
thankyou ordered the rewraps from fat daddy vapes
 

aquaholic2491

Bronze Contributor
Member For 3 Years
Member For 2 Years
Member For 1 Year
should i put a little tape on it for now until the new wraps come? or is it safe because its on the bottom?
 

dcarpentier

Bronze Contributor
Member For 3 Years
Member For 2 Years
So.. if you let one of these batteries go below 2 volts, its dangerous to try and use again ?
(copper begins to deposit internally and you have a 'growing' internal short issue)

Is this also other Lithium type batteries like in toy drones etc ?
 

SirRichardRear

AKA Anthony Vapes on Youtube
VU Donator
Diamond Contributor
Member For 3 Years
Reviewer
So.. if you let one of these batteries go below 2 volts, its dangerous to try and use again ?
(copper begins to deposit internally and you have a 'growing' internal short issue)

Is this also other Lithium type batteries like in toy drones etc ?
It's dependant on the battery but in general anything under 2.5v kills the battery. So I usually don't discharge mine lower then 3 volts anyway. Batteries lower then 3 volts are useless they either start pulling too many amps in regulated or become too weak for a good vape with unregulated

Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk
 

PhantomOp

VU Donator
Gold Contributor
Member For 3 Years
Member For 2 Years
Clarification Question

On a regulated MOD (ie SMOK Alien) with two married 20A Samsung 30Q batteries. Is running a .14ohm setup at 85W, drawing 25.37A safe?

85W_25.3A_S.jpg
 

SirRichardRear

AKA Anthony Vapes on Youtube
VU Donator
Diamond Contributor
Member For 3 Years
Reviewer
Clarification Question

On a regulated MOD (ie SMOK Alien) with two married 20A Samsung 30Q batteries. Is running a .14ohm setup at 85W, drawing 25.37A safe?

View attachment 72432
25 amp is the board output not the battery draw. Battery amp draw is about 11.5 so yeah it's safe

Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk
 

VU Sponsors

Top