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I must preach the gospel of PWM to the masses.

Mikhail Naumov

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Please stay the hell out of this thread if all you want to do is argue and spread misinformation. I created this thread about PWM and not about batteries or anything else. This is thread made to help people understand PWM, not a place for you to measure your dick in public. This thread was made to help people and spread information, not for you to get your shits and giggles in on a Friday night. To the MANY of you on this forum who have a clear and stated issue with me, either take it to my PM's or just don't say it. Small minds don't get very far. I don't care if you don't like me, this isn't a social call thread, I don't want it ending up shoved in the Mud Pit because you wanted to turn into a keyboard Spartan or talk about shit that isn't PWM related on this occasion.

I'm not going to make this TOO long, as I want you to read it, but make no mistake here. I am here for your hearts and minds. PWM vaping is a beautiful thing once you get into it, and here is why.

PWM stands for pulse width modulation, I'm sure most of you know that. Do you know what PWM is? Truly? If you don't, do not feel bad or stupid as it's not common knowledge. The way a typical PWM circuit works in vaping applications is through a duty cycle timer. Say you have two 18650's in series. Fully charged. That's 8.4V before voltage drop and battery sag. Allow me to be generous and say after voltage drop and battery sag, on a full charge this mod has 8V left in the cells.

So you have 8V of raw input when all is said and done. What does this mean from here? Well, on a PWM mod you're going to have some way of adjusting the power, typically via a voltage division dial called a potentiometer. These little wheels work by first, resisting current, but they have a dial that allows you to change how much they resist it. 100% power means no resistance is taking place, 0% means it's resisting as much as it can. Though in vaping applications it tends to be a bit different still. We in vaping mostly use them to dial through a timer range, a part of that duty cycle I mentioned earlier.

Back to your 8V of power, I didn't forget, don't you worry. In a duty cycle, that 8V will be applied all the time. It doesn't matter where the dial on the potentiometer falls, you're getting full voltage ALL the time. So how can this be, it certainly doesn't feel or vape like full voltage on lower power settings, does it? No, this is because you're controlling the time that voltage is applied. At 10% on the potentiometer dial, that would mean through whatever the set cycle time period is (which is much less than a single second, mind you, but it varies), that 8V of power is only being applied 10% of the time which would leave a 90% gap of no power.

What this creates is a power source that is being switched on and off VERY quickly, this is why a lot of PWM mods have an audible buzz when you're using them. This is great for a lot of reasons, as you can keep your overall vape experience down to a lower power range, but you can still taste that fast ramp up perk that comes along with vaping at higher voltages. This is also why PWM mods typically vape 'harder' at similar voltage settings to their DC counterparts. This is because the volt meter on a PWM mod is giving you the most accurate estimate of the DC equivalent of what your duty cycle is vaping like.

PWM mods now are rare, or shit. Back in early regulated vaping, PWM was everywhere. Provari was the PWM king, using a type of PWM known as RMS (Root Mean Square) which results in a pulse so fast that on a scope it reads like a flat line, like DC would. Some PWM boards still use this today, like the Voltrove NLPWM. Though you don't see PWM, not true PWM anyway, as much as you did back then. Which I find saddening, as the new intelligent / smart PWM regulators available to modders have all sorts of features like locking, on/off, favorites, diagnostics and more. Making them very similar to the regulated retail mods most vapers use. RMS PWM also can allow you to literally adjust all the way down to 0V, up to maximum battery voltage. Abandoning the duty cycle completely to give a more DC-esque experience.

This is where I'm getting to my point. Sure, DC is nice, DC has a lot of advantages, but I feel PWM is the best thing we can use for vaping. For more accurate uses, RMS can nearly mimic DC. On top of this, with inputs ranging from 2S (8.4V) to 6S (25.2V), PWM regulators offer ranges of power that can satisfy ANY vaper, rather it be a tootle puffer or a madman who vapes 2,500W builds. The new PWM regulators easily available to modders make PWM mods easier than ever to make, and I as a modder even specialize in them.

Sure, PWM boards can't offer temperature control or custom screens like a DNA or SX could, yet anyway. Though I found those things very gimmicky and left unused in the grand scheme of things, I find that the most important aspect is, the quality of the vape. This is why I feel how I do, because with PWM regulation you can get a quality of vape that can be fine tuned to suit ANY vaper, and with regulators that switch at 25Khz, you can't even hear the annoying buzz anymore.

I implore you to give PWM a real chance sometime if you never have, as it's a truly amazing way to vape that allows you to find that EXACT sweet spot that is essentially your vaping nirvana.
 
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Briandesimone

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When I started vaping most if not all the mods were PWM. Unless it reads as a flat line you feel the pulse when your vaping which is annoying. That's why I believe PWM isn't used that much anymore.

Sent from my SM-S120VL using Tapatalk
 

Mikhail Naumov

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When I started vaping most if not all the mods were PWM. Unless it reads as a flat line you feel the pulse when your vaping which is annoying. That's why I believe PWM isn't used that much anymore.

Sent from my SM-S120VL using Tapatalk

Uh, no. NO. I'm sorry that you've even had that shitty experience, I truly am. That type of 'pulse' is about worthless for vaping. It gave PWM a bad name, too. No vaper deserves to think that is all PWM has to offer and it pisses me off that they marketed the SW as a pulse mod when it was just the board essentially switching the power on and off every half second.

Switching at 25Khz is NOT something you can feel. I'm not talking about that fake PWM shit like the SnowWolf had, this pulse you will never feel. Ever. Also my PWM mods can push up up to 3,000W+ and some all the way down to 5W or so, that's a power range nothing else can touch. You're thinking of the OLD, OLD school PWM shit that rattlesnaked, or the pseudo-pulse shit like the SW used. By the time your brain has even registered a half second passed, the 555's on these boards have switched on and off 15+ times. I'm talking pulse waves so short you might have to bust out the planck scale to measure them. All it takes is getting the 555 timed right.

And I'm not going to be ranking PWM mods, as I hate retail mods and I think China has ruined vaping. I'll list PWM regulator boards that you can have modders put in mods for you or use to make a mod yourself. I could rank some PWM mods here but it's not fair as I can't say I've used ever modder's creation to have a comparison for everything I rank. I have however used over 10 different PWM regulator boards and even wired up my own PWM 555 timer circuit as well so I CAN rank those.

1. Big Al's 2S-6S input IntelliPWM regulator.
2. Voltrove NLPWM RMS smart PWM 2S-6S input regulator.
3. Gunstar 12 gauge lipo 2S-4S PWM regulator.
4. Big Al's 2S-5S Ant mini PWM regulator, pushes up to 1,100W and is smaller than a DNA60.
5. Micro PWM V2.

Of those five boards, only two switch at a frequency that you can even hear, and NONE of them switch slow enough for you to EVER even come close to feeling.

Like I said, not many people have used real PWM mods. Most modern PWM shit you find in vaping regulators has been tuned to switch at a rate so fast it's hard to measure on a scope. Then you have RMS PWM which straight up pulls a flat line on a scope. PWM in 2013 could've done this, but nobody bothered as high wattage was a mythical unicorn people laughed off. Nobody wanted more than 20W.

I don't think PWM died or 'fell off'. In order to die you must at first live, to fall off you must at first get UP. Just because PWM used to be more common in vaping doesn't mean it ever got a fair shake, and since PWM is usually sectioned off in the 'Level 9 Advanced Vaping' category, most people see it as reserved for modding snobs or crazy thousand watt vapers. Not at all, you can vape a Protank on a well made 2S PWM mod, or you can use a 3S or 4S to put out 2,000W. Feel crazy, use a fucking 5S or 6S. The point is not that you need to or should, the point is you can. You CAN, you have options like no other when it to this type of vaping. Evolv will never be able to offer you the unlimited power range PWM regulators can, nor can they use that duty cycle to vape at a lower power level that still provides a quick ramp up for thicker wires.
 
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Mikhail Naumov

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If I were richer I would truly dedicate a good chunk of my time to wiring up proper PWM mods and just mailing them out to people for free so they can try it out. I don't ask people to just love PWM because I say so, I just want people to have a chance to experience what it CAN do in a proper setting. If we had DC regulators available to us that could cycle through massive, ungodly diverse power ranges, I wouldn't be talking about PWM stuff like this. Even if we did I would still like PWM stuff though, as the duty cycle action allows for lower wattage vapes that still get that high powered kick in the beginning for a quick ramp up for things like staples and fused claptons of the 4mm+ variety.

As cheap and easy to mass produce as smart PWM regulators are, I truly don't know why China hasn't at least TRIED it out. I suppose it's for the best, as the second a retail, publicly available 3,000W mod drops in brick and mortars, idiot cloud bros will explode vaping out of the legality it exists in.

Here's the 4S Gunstar board powered PWM I'm vaping right now, though tomorrow when my Big Al boards show up this mod will be collecting dust somewhere in the corner as I fucked up centering the fire button and now I hate looking at it.
 

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Briandesimone

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Uh, no. NO. I'm sorry that you've even had that shitty experience, I truly am. That type of 'pulse' is about worthless for vaping. It gave PWM a bad name, too. No vaper deserves to think that is all PWM has to offer and it pisses me off that they marketed the SW as a pulse mod when it was just the board essentially switching the power on and off every half second.

Switching at 25Khz is NOT something you can feel. I'm not talking about that fake PWM shit like the SnowWolf had, this pulse you will never feel. Ever. Also my PWM mods can push up up to 3,000W+ and some all the way down to 5W or so, that's a power range nothing else can touch. You're thinking of the OLD, OLD school PWM shit that rattlesnaked, or the pseudo-pulse shit like the SW used. By the time your brain has even registered a half second passed, the 555's on these boards have switched on and off 15+ times. I'm talking pulse waves so short you might have to bust out the planck scale to measure them. All it takes is getting the 555 timed right.

And I'm not going to be ranking PWM mods, as I hate retail mods and I think China has ruined vaping. I'll list PWM regulator boards that you can have modders put in mods for you or use to make a mod yourself. I could rank some PWM mods here but it's not fair as I can't say I've used ever modder's creation to have a comparison for everything I rank. I have however used over 10 different PWM regulator boards and even wired up my own PWM 555 timer circuit as well so I CAN rank those.

1. Big Al's 2S-6S input IntelliPWM regulator.
2. Voltrove NLPWM RMS smart PWM 2S-6S input regulator.
3. Gunstar 12 gauge lipo 2S-4S PWM regulator.
4. Big Al's 2S-5S Ant mini PWM regulator, pushes up to 1,100W and is smaller than a DNA60.
5. Micro PWM V2.

Of those five boards, only two switch at a frequency that you can even hear, and NONE of them switch slow enough for you to EVER even come close to feeling.

Like I said, not many people have used real PWM mods. Most modern PWM shit you find in vaping regulators has been tuned to switch at a rate so fast it's hard to measure on a scope. Then you have RMS PWM which straight up pulls a flat line on a scope. PWM in 2013 could've done this, but nobody bothered as high wattage was a mythical unicorn people laughed off. Nobody wanted more than 20W.

I don't think PWM died or 'fell off'. In order to die you must at first live, to fall off you must at first get UP. Just because PWM used to be more common in vaping doesn't mean it ever got a fair shake, and since PWM is usually sectioned off in the 'Level 9 Advanced Vaping' category, most people see it as reserved for modding snobs or crazy thousand watt vapers. Not at all, you can vape a Protank on a well made 2S PWM mod, or you can use a 3S or 4S to put out 2,000W. Feel crazy, use a fucking 5S or 6S. The point is not that you need to or should, the point is you can. You CAN, you have options like no other when it to this type of vaping. Evolv will never be able to offer you the unlimited power range PWM regulators can, nor can they use that duty cycle to vape at a lower power level that still provides a quick ramp up for thicker wires.
Yes I was thinking of old school vaporizer. For it to be RMS and pull a flat line on a oscilloscope the speed of the pulse has to be really quick. Now the question is what's the price.

Sent from my SM-S120VL using Tapatalk
 

Mikhail Naumov

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Yes I was thinking of old school vaporizer. For it to be RMS and pull a flat line on a oscilloscope the speed of the pulse has to be really quick. Now the question is what's the price.

Sent from my SM-S120VL using Tapatalk

You can have a non-RMS PWM regulator switch at a rate that DAMNED NEAR reads a flat line on a scope, but I see what you mean.

The Big Al's IntelliPWM and the Voltrove NLPWM both use RMS-PWM, one is $40 (The Voltrove) and the better one is only $15, so it's not bad actually. Both are cheaper than DNA's.

If I wholesale order the parts, I can have a 4S PWM, Big Al IntelliPWM powered, mod made in a 1590N1 CNC box for around $80 with the battery included. Part by part retail cost, around $105.
 
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Mikhail Naumov

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This dude is a champion, he makes some of the best regulators out there. He even makes HIS OWN OKL T-20 board, the old school 20A Hex Ohm board. His can cycle through 3-7V, opposed to the 3.5-6V the original could. It also has the ability to be mount soldered directly on top of a battery sled, and every connection is labeled with a lot of the parts already included. This guy makes modding a lot easier.

http://www.bigalsmods.com/category-s/100.htm
 

Briandesimone

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This dude is a champion, he makes some of the best regulators out there. He even makes HIS OWN OKL T-20 board, the old school 20A Hex Ohm board. His can cycle through 3-7V, opposed to the 3.5-6V the original could. It also has the ability to be mount soldered directly on top of a battery sled, and every connection is labeled with a lot of the parts already included. This guy makes modding a lot easier.

http://www.bigalsmods.com/category-s/100.htm
Thanks. I have been thinking about making my own box mod. This might just get me to make one

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Mikhail Naumov

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Where are you buying the boxes at to build the mods?

Ebay mostly, sometimes Amazon. If you search up the Alpinetech (ATI) store, you'll find not only every part just about you could ever want for modding, but also CNC Enclosures. They spec them off Hammonds, only the magnets are hidden, the doors have nail nicks, the paint job is MUCH nicer and best of all there is NO LEAN. They even sometimes come with pre-cut and drilled holes. Some like the DNA versions literally come with everything short of the 510 hole pre drilled. Perfectly.

Otherwise I typically use PETG enclosures from Brimstone 3D for my niche mods.

http://stores.ebay.com/Shop-ATI-Store

All of my enclosues save the PETG ones come from there.
 
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Giraut

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I implore you to give PWM a real chance sometime if you never have, as it's a truly amazing way to vape that allows you to find that EXACT sweet spot that is essentially your vaping nirvana.

What the hell are you on about? Many mods today use raw PWM, and boards that put out DC just have a big cap at the end of a PWM boost converter. And in any case, at high enough a frequency, the thermal inertia of the coils make it totally impossible to tell the difference between the two...

PWM only got bad press among vapers because many early board used a frequency of 30 Hz, which was too low for the small thermal inertia of small coils and caused a rattlesnake noise when firing. Then DC became a marketing argument. But at many kHz, it just doesn't matter and no vaper can tell the difference.

Vapers really need to learn basic electronics...
 

Mikhail Naumov

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What the hell are you on about? Many mods today use raw PWM, and boards that put out DC just have a big cap at the end of a PWM booster converter. And in any case, at high enough a frequency, the thermal inertia of the coils make it totally impossible to tell the difference between the two...

PWM only got bad press among vapers because many early board used a frequency of 30 Hz, which was too low for the small thermal inertia of small coils and caused a rattlesnake noise when firing. Then DC became a marketing argument. But at many kHz, it just doesn't mattrr and no vaper can tell the difference.

Many? State them all and references.

Evolv boards are DC.

Yihi boards are now DC.

Sure, these China boxes use a form of PWM to try and achieve the higher power ranges, but a good majority of regulated mods out now use DC.

RMS PWM is common too, but it's mimic DC in all seriousness so it's not much different.

Most boards don't even have the wattage range to ever NEED to use PWM, especially not with all these 4 x 18650 mods out. You don't need PWM to pull anything under 350W with 16.8V raw input in a buck-only converter setup.

I agree with you though, completely, and what the hell I am on about is a fact. The fact that PWM vaping is left in the shadows, never properly explored.
 

Mikhail Naumov

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Look, if you want to sling shit at me, go for it. But if you can't prove a word you're saying, you're not adding shit. Period. I started this thread because I would like more people to experiment with PWM regulators.

But by all means, show us all how edgy you are dude.

Fuck right on the hell off. Block list population is now one. If you can't be bothered to contribute anything and just want to drop by and insult me with a bunch of baseless shit, I don't want to waste my time reading the waste of finger strength you splatter about the forums.

The very fact you think quad battery mods that don't even crack 500W would wastefully throw PWM conversions into the circuit shows me you don't know dick about regulators. Or electronics period. You're literally describing a regulator that would have pointless parts attached to it, as 18650's may suck but 3-4 of them in series being bucked down by several volts minimum can push out the power ranges these mods offer with no issue. Also, buck conversions is a DC to DC circuit, in case you've forgotten that DC isn't PWM. 95% of high wattage mods (which is, all of them almost now) are buck only, meaning DC is all that happens period end of story.

I offered to let you provide referenced examples, you didn't. You just insulted me for no reason. Tells me all I need to know about you. I made this thread to talk with modders and try to help people. This is the one time I DON'T want to be an asshole, so please, don't needlessly antagonize me with shit you pulled out of your ass. You claim I just wanted to make a thread in hypocrisy as it's clear you just wanted to add to your post count and edge points.
 
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inspects

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Ebay mostly, sometimes Amazon. If you search up the Alpinetech (ATI) store, you'll find not only every part just about you could ever want for modding, but also CNC Enclosures. They spec them off Hammonds, only the magnets are hidden, the doors have nail nicks, the paint job is MUCH nicer and best of all there is NO LEAN. They even sometimes come with pre-cut and drilled holes. Some like the DNA versions literally come with everything short of the 510 hole pre drilled. Perfectly.

Otherwise I typically use PETG enclosures from Brimstone 3D for my niche mods.

www.stores.ebay.com/Shop-ATI-Store

All of my enclosues save the PETG ones come from there.
Thanks, man...!
 

Mikhail Naumov

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Thanks, man...!

No thanks needed, but I appreciate it. This is the reason I made this thread, I want to help modders. Be it with PWM or anything else. The vaping industry has a crosshair on it and shit isn't looking good, modding may be the ONLY thing that keeps us afloat if things get bad, and the better tools I can make sure people have in their hands, the more knowledge, the better.

To anyone else looking to insult me for no reason, use the PM box. I created this thread to try and help the community overall, not get in pointless arguments with edgelords. Please leave that shit out of this thread. I'm an asshole in 90% of the other threads I post in, go there or send me a PM. Don't track mud into the one thread I created to try and help modders.
 

pulsevape

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No thanks needed, but I appreciate it. This is the reason I made this thread, I want to help modders. Be it with PWM or anything else. The vaping industry has a crosshair on it and shit isn't looking good, modding may be the ONLY thing that keeps us afloat if things get bad, and the better tools I can make sure people have in their hands, the more knowledge, the better.

To anyone else looking to insult me for no reason, use the PM box. I created this thread to try and help the community overall, not get in pointless arguments with edgelords. Please leave that shit out of this thread. I'm an asshole in 90% of the other threads I post in, go there or send me a PM. Don't track mud into the one thread I created to try and help modders.
Well thanks for the insights, but honestly what you are saying is so masked with technical jargon it is unavailable to we dummies who make up the majority oif vapers....perhaps you could name some mods that use the technology, or do a tutorial on how to build mod with this technology.
 

inspects

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Well thanks for the insights, but honestly what you are saying is so masked with technical jargon it is unavailable to we dummies who make up the majority of vapers....perhaps you could name some mods that use the technology, or do a tutorial on how to build a mod with this technology.
Count me in.
 

KingPin!

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Yeah must admit most of that went over my head also (at the moment but I haven't researched any of it yet) would like to know more though :)
 

conanthewarrior

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My first mod used PWM- a Sigelei 30W mini. You could switch between DC-DC and PWM. It only used PWM when you wanted to go under the batteries voltage though obviously.

I really loved that mod. I know it isn't a custom built PWM mod, but it was great.

I really would like another PWM mod, but in my area it is hard to find people that make mods. A retail one may be my only option at the moment and it would be nice to have one.
 

KingPin!

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Nooby question if I may so is it any mod with a potentiometer? I.e. The hexohm v3 as I have this one on my wish list
 

ShowerHead

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Real talk, you guys want a tutorial? I will make the bitch if you want it, honestly. I'm wiring up a board tomorrow and I could film it.

I think that having a written or video 'how-to' would be a great thing.
I'm interested in being self-sufficient in vaping. I make coils and juice, I stockpile the things that could vanish, like tanks and mods.
To have a repairable, better mod would be a good thing IMO. Whether I polish my neglected soldering skills or have someone else do the initial build.
Having the process laid out with explanation of the 'why' as well as the 'what' would be great.

Not only would some of us get the benefit of a better/smoother/faster vape, we'd also have a quality mod instead of the utter crap I have bought recently.
I just spent good hard cash on an unnamed mod (looking at you Yihi) to have it fail, be replaced with another that didn't meet the price tag's promise
I say that without opening the case to stare with wonder at the wiring/soldering that must surely exist within.

Let's have the 'how-to' please.
 

~Don~

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I'm down to learn this...although I am a dumb construction worker...so I'll be that guy asking questions when I can't grasp something to the point of annoyance...fair warning lol.
 

SirRichardRear

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I'm not going to make this TOO long, as I want you to read it, but make no mistake here. I am here for your hearts and minds. PWM vaping is a beautiful thing once you get into it, and here is why.

PWM stands for pulse width modulation, I'm sure most of you know that. Do you know what PWM is? Truly? If you don't, do not feel bad or stupid as it's not common knowledge. The way a typical PWM circuit works in vaping applications is through a duty cycle timer. Say you have two 18650's in series. Fully charged. That's 8.4V before voltage drop and battery sag. Allow me to be generous and say after voltage drop and battery sag, on a full charge this mod has 8V left in the cells.

So you have 8V of raw input when all is said and done. What does this mean from here? Well, on a PWM mod you're going to have some way of adjusting the power, typically via a voltage division dial called a potentiometer. These little wheels work by first, resisting current, but they have a dial that allows you to change how much they resist it. 100% power means no resistance is taking place, 0% means it's resisting as much as it can. Though in vaping applications it tends to be a bit different still. We in vaping mostly use them to dial through a timer range, a part of that duty cycle I mentioned earlier.

Back to your 8V of power, I didn't forget, don't you worry. In a duty cycle, that 8V will be applied all the time. It doesn't matter where the dial on the potentiometer falls, you're getting full voltage ALL the time. So how can this be, it certainly doesn't feel or vape like full voltage on lower power settings, does it? No, this is because you're controlling the time that voltage is applied. At 10% on the potentiometer dial, that would mean through whatever the set cycle time period is (which is much less than a single second, mind you, but it varies), that 8V of power is only being applied 10% of the time which would leave a 90% gap of no power.

What this creates is a power source that is being switched on and off VERY quickly, this is why a lot of PWM mods have an audible buzz when you're using them. This is great for a lot of reasons, as you can keep your overall vape experience down to a lower power range, but you can still taste that fast ramp up perk that comes along with vaping at higher voltages. This is also why PWM mods typically vape 'harder' at similar voltage settings to their DC counterparts. This is because the volt meter on a PWM mod is giving you the most accurate estimate of the DC equivalent of what your duty cycle is vaping like.

PWM mods now are rare, or shit. Back in early regulated vaping, PWM was everywhere. Provari was the PWM king, using a type of PWM known as RMS (Root Mean Square) which results in a pulse so fast that on a scope it reads like a flat line, like DC would. Some PWM boards still use this today, like the Voltrove NLPWM. Though you don't see PWM, not true PWM anyway, as much as you did back then. Which I find saddening, as the new intelligent / smart PWM regulators available to modders have all sorts of features like locking, on/off, favorites, diagnostics and more. Making them very similar to the regulated retail mods most vapers use. RMS PWM also can allow you to literally adjust all the way down to 0V, up to maximum battery voltage. Abandoning the duty cycle completely to give a more DC-esque experience.

This is where I'm getting to my point. Sure, DC is nice, DC has a lot of advantages, but I feel PWM is the best thing we can use for vaping. For more accurate uses, RMS can nearly mimic DC. On top of this, with inputs ranging from 2S (8.4V) to 6S (25.2V), PWM regulators offer ranges of power that can satisfy ANY vaper, rather it be a tootle puffer or a madman who vapes 2,500W builds. The new PWM regulators easily available to modders make PWM mods easier than ever to make, and I as a modder even specialize in them.

Sure, PWM boards can't offer temperature control or custom screens like a DNA or SX could, yet anyway. Though I found those things very gimmicky and left unused in the grand scheme of things, I find that the most important aspect is, the quality of the vape. This is why I feel how I do, because with PWM regulation you can get a quality of vape that can be fine tuned to suit ANY vaper, and with regulators that switch at 25Khz, you can't even hear the annoying buzz anymore.

I implore you to give PWM a real chance sometime if you never have, as it's a truly amazing way to vape that allows you to find that EXACT sweet spot that is essentially your vaping nirvana.
nice post! i love my iPWM mod and highly recommend big als chips. he's a good dude and runs a facebook group for PWM if anyone has questions or needs help. I had a pretty good talk to him about this chip and his site sells anything you need to make a full mod outside of the enclosure.
 

SirRichardRear

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Nooby question if I may so is it any mod with a potentiometer? I.e. The hexohm v3 as I have this one on my wish list
hexohm 3 is full regulated with a DC-DC convertor. it's not a PWM mod. same for mods like the dovpo M vv, ijoy zenith, and likely the tesla invader 3
 

SirRichardRear

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Well thanks for the insights, but honestly what you are saying is so masked with technical jargon it is unavailable to we dummies who make up the majority oif vapers....perhaps you could name some mods that use the technology, or do a tutorial on how to build mod with this technology.
i have this one
http://www.nymbismods.com/ (purple joker ipwm mod)
 

Lotus Insane

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To the OP- Call me a heretic, but can you tell me the difference between the pwn chip and an okl chip?
 

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hexohm 3 is full regulated with a DC-DC convertor. it's not a PWM mod. same for mods like the dovpo M vv, ijoy zenith, and likely the tesla invader 3

Thanks SRR then I'm lost on the potentiometer thing... think I'll wait for a intro on the differences :)
 
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SirRichardRear

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Thanks SRR then I'm lost on the potentiometer thing... think I'll wait for a into on the differences :)
it's just an adjustment tool. depends what board it's attached to.
think of it like this do you have any lights in your house with a dimmer switch? same concept basically.
 

KingPin!

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it's just an adjustment tool. depends what board it's attached to.
think of it like this do you have any lights in your house with a dimmer switch? same concept basically.

So why was it mentioned specifically with the PWM circuit? is it something unique to that type of circuit as a control mechanism?or are there other ways too?

Hehe need examples or some other source material to read me thinks
 

Mikhail Naumov

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No video today as the board I got was a dud, when I got the battery plugged in the meter would just show the input voltage and nothing else. Big Al is replacing it though, so in two days I will literally film the entire process if you want.

BUT, it would be more of a 'how to solder' tutorial than anything else.

You guys pick, do you want a VIDEO of my big Serbian ass with my facial piercings glaring, talking about PWM or would you rather have a big, long ass written guide?
 

ShowerHead

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You guys pick, do you want a VIDEO of my big Serbian ass with my facial piercings glaring, talking about PWM or would you rather have a big, long ass written guide?

I'll vote video. Hell, you have no idea who I am, so looks are unimportant, content is. I like to watch. Oh, wait. That's a different online activity...

A video, as long as it isn't "This is me, this is me soldering' would show technique. Difference between reading about programming or sitting at the keyboard with a coder and hearing them think out loud. I learn way faster watching if the person is good at what they do, they explain silly little tips and tricks along the way.

Reading is nice if you already have some idea of the subject matter.

Having both is preferable though, they support one another. After all, as you said, it is your holy mission and as such, shouldn't be done halfway.
 

Mikhail Naumov

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I'm gonna make it tomorrow and have my boyfriend film me so it's not shit. I'm also going to post the video in an entirely new thread as I don't want it to be JUST about PWM. I'm literally going to give a cohesive lecture on ALL the various different types of vaping regulators and circuits, how they work, what they do and examples of mods that use them. Going for a second sticky there, as it will essentially be a full run down on how vaping mods work. All of them.

If you guys want me to make a MODDING TUTORIAL, showing tips and tricks on how to make mods, beginner advice and etc. I will do that as well.

Otherwise, here's the layout I use for most if not all of my PWM mods. Board up in the corner (heatshrunk after wiring and glued in place), as short of wires as possible, short ass lipo connector as why have it longer when the lipo has a four inch long give on the wires already? I started making my connector wires hella short because I realized unless you use tiny ass lipos, that extra length does nothing other than force you to bunch it up and stuff it down when placing the battery in. So now I make them short, like one inch a piece. The 510 wires are hanging down so I can solder them on, then literally using the 510 insulator and pin that free spins, grip spin it around into place, heat the shrink to tighten it, then hot glue it down. It's a great little system. The volt meter wires are LONG as hell because of this, as are the potentiometer wires, but neither of those connections matter. I braid my switch and volt meter wires for space management as well.

It's crude and it's not even finished, but here's some pictures of a mod with all the parts mounted and me ready to wire it up. The wiring process takes 5-15 minutes on average.
 

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Mikhail Naumov

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To the OP- Call me a heretic, but can you tell me the difference between the pwn chip and an okl chip?

I'm not uber familiar with the OKL/OKR/Raptor line as I haven't used them in years, but I'm pretty sure they're all DC-DC converters. Meaning it converts straight DC voltage from the battery, into a bucked down (lowered) DC voltage that runs to the atomizer. I know they're buck only DC-DC converters, much like a DNA is. PWM is not DC, it uses a duty cycle timer or an RMS cycle to achieve an 'average/mean' power.


i have this one
http://www.nymbismods.com/ (purple joker ipwm mod)

That dude.. that dude FUCKED me and a bunch of other people. Two months I waited on a mod, you got poor fucks like Rawby still waiting three months later. I have no respect for him and advise everyone to avoid him, any reputation he may have had he has PISSED away over the last few months. He has 10+ people who have been waiting on mods for months and he LIED to me on two occasions. I understand personal hardship, but there's more to his situation and I won't go into it here. I made a full thread on it in the vendor section.

He does make nice mods though, shame none of his new customers will ever see theirs.

You can probably still see the flurry of legal threats I left on his Facebook page during this situation. I put this dude on BLAST for an entire month, I was waging a social media war. For real. I had other customers of his hitting me up from seeing my posts. Near the end I had 15 people or so behind me and we were making it rain digital fire on his life and only THEN did SOME of us get our mods. SOME of us.
 
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ShowerHead

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I'm gonna make it tomorrow and have my boyfriend film me so it's not shit. I'm also going to post the video in an entirely new thread as I don't want it to be JUST about PWM. I'm literally going to give a cohesive lecture on ALL the various different types of vaping regulators and circuits, how they work, what they do and examples of mods that use them. Going for a second sticky there, as it will essentially be a full run down on how vaping mods work. All of them.

Thank you. It's ambitious, but will be a great thing for anyone (like me) considering a change in their vaping equipment/style. Looking forward to it.


If you guys want me to make a MODDING TUTORIAL, showing tips and tricks on how to make mods, beginner advice and etc. I will do that as well.

Oh yeah, I think this is needed for absolute 'what the fuck is this part' newcomers like me.

Again, I think it's very ambitious, but will be a valuable resource.
Lights, camera, action!
 

SirRichardRear

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So why was it mentioned specifically with the PWM circuit? is it something unique to that type of circuit as a control mechanism?or are there other ways too?

Hehe need examples or some other source material to read me thinks
other ways

PWM is pulse width modulation. it adjusts the length of the pulse to meet the average voltage
PFM is pulse frequency modulation. it adjusts the frequency of the pule to meet the average voltage

I'm not uber familiar with the OKL/OKR/Raptor line as I haven't used them in years, but I'm pretty sure they're all DC-DC converters. Meaning it converts straight DC voltage from the battery, into a bucked down (lowered) DC voltage that runs to the atomizer. I know they're buck only DC-DC converters, much like a DNA is. PWM is not DC, it uses a duty cycle timer or an RMS cycle to achieve an 'average/mean' power.




That dude.. that dude FUCKED me and a bunch of other people. Two months I waited on a mod, you got poor fucks like Rawby still waiting three months later. I have no respect for him and advise everyone to avoid him, any reputation he may have had he has PISSED away over the last few months. He has 10+ people who have been waiting on mods for months and he LIED to me on two occasions. I understand personal hardship, but there's more to his situation and I won't go into it here. I made a full thread on it in the vendor section.

He does make nice mods though, shame none of his new customers will ever see theirs.

You can probably still see the flurry of legal threats I left on his Facebook page during this situation. I put this dude on BLAST for an entire month, I was waging a social media war. For real. I had other customers of his hitting me up from seeing my posts. Near the end I had 15 people or so behind me and we were making it rain digital fire on his life and only THEN did SOME of us get our mods. SOME of us.
dam that's shitty! i appreciate the information. customer service that bad is complete BS. When i do my review for it i'll make sure to mention it but the main point of the review is to talk about how awesome big al's chips are and he's got amazing customer service. Love big al and his chips
 

jodi3moons

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Does anyone know is Jmodz PWM boxes are good? I'm interested in getting a PWM mod, but I don't have the know-how to build one myself. If anyone has suggestions other than Jmodz, or has had experience with his/their devices, please let me know.
 

MWorthington

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I'm gonna make it tomorrow and have my boyfriend film me so it's not shit. I'm also going to post the video in an entirely new thread as I don't want it to be JUST about PWM. I'm literally going to give a cohesive lecture on ALL the various different types of vaping regulators and circuits, how they work, what they do and examples of mods that use them. Going for a second sticky there, as it will essentially be a full run down on how vaping mods work. All of them.

If you guys want me to make a MODDING TUTORIAL, showing tips and tricks on how to make mods, beginner advice and etc. I will do that as well.

Otherwise, here's the layout I use for most if not all of my PWM mods. Board up in the corner (heatshrunk after wiring and glued in place), as short of wires as possible, short ass lipo connector as why have it longer when the lipo has a four inch long give on the wires already? I started making my connector wires hella short because I realized unless you use tiny ass lipos, that extra length does nothing other than force you to bunch it up and stuff it down when placing the battery in. So now I make them short, like one inch a piece. The 510 wires are hanging down so I can solder them on, then literally using the 510 insulator and pin that free spins, grip spin it around into place, heat the shrink to tighten it, then hot glue it down. It's a great little system. The volt meter wires are LONG as hell because of this, as are the potentiometer wires, but neither of those connections matter. I braid my switch and volt meter wires for space management as well.

It's crude and it's not even finished, but here's some pictures of a mod with all the parts mounted and me ready to wire it up. The wiring process takes 5-15 minutes on average.


A parts list and wiring diagram will be good for me. :)
 

SirRichardRear

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A parts list and wiring diagram will be good for me. :)

Chip with battery sled
http://www.bigalsmods.com/product-p/1008.htm

pot, voltmeter, fire button and bezels
http://www.bigalsmods.com/category-s/102.htm

C34DT4B.png
 

Mikhail Naumov

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Thank you. It's ambitious, but will be a great thing for anyone (like me) considering a change in their vaping equipment/style. Looking forward to it.




Oh yeah, I think this is needed for absolute 'what the fuck is this part' newcomers like me.

Again, I think it's very ambitious, but will be a valuable resource.
Lights, camera, action!

It now exists, in the General section of the Mod/PV forums. The modding guide at least.
 

Mikhail Naumov

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SirRichardRear

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This is the sled version, which is genius in terms of its construction. Takes up to a 4S. The Lipo version is a bit different and overall easier to wire up in my opinion, it takes up to a 6S. The iPWM is a wonderful board, I truly enjoy it.
yup he got versions for everything. i like the ones mounted to the sleds but my thought process was to make a dual 21700 battery sqounker so the sled version wouldn't work. in an alpinetech box. I just need time lol also there is a dude in the facebook group that does laser engraving and it's fantastic looking
 

Mikhail Naumov

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yup he got versions for everything. i like the ones mounted to the sleds but my thought process was to make a dual 21700 battery sqounker so the sled version wouldn't work. in an alpinetech box. I just need time lol also there is a dude in the facebook group that does laser engraving and it's fantastic looking

Luke Gunstar? He engraves all my mods for customers.

Also, I made a triple series 20700 PWM mod, I LOVE it dude.
 
Hi, i am looking to build my first pwm mod. I would like to know if the batteries are fully charged then drop to say 7v after a while of vaping, do you need to turn the pot up to get the same vape experience as when it was fully charged? Or does the voltage stay consistent until it is close to the depleted battery?
 

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