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Mikhail Naumov

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Not really a review, I just wanted a place to actually discuss this, as my vendor thread where I sell mods is about selling mods, not discussing their specific parts in detail. My modding threads don't really go too much into detail about this board either. So I wanted a place where I could, as I love the hell out of this board and I truly find it disappointing that more people haven't at least heard of it as it's been giving me the best vape I've ever had.

I'm sure between my PWM thread and just being around the block, most of you are familiar with PWM, at least to a certain degree. PWM (Pulse Width Modulation) is where the input voltage is regulated out in an extremely fast switching fashion. You use a potentiometer to control how fast/often the timer switches, thus controlling the overall average output power. With RMS PWM, you can get even more accurate than the duty cycle action.

The iPWM is obviously a PWM board. Though it's no run of the mill PWM setup, believe me. First of all, it switches at 25Khz, meaning good luck hearing it. It is DEAD ass silent, no buzz/hum, no vibrations. It's also timerless to the best of my knowledge, meaning you're getting one of the most accurate PWM experiences you can get. But it's not just a silent/accurate PWM board, no. It has features that a lot of your typical retail regulated devices have. You can turn the mod output power on or off, check the input voltage (remaining battery life), set a favorite voltage and then go in and out of favorite mode, run diagnostics on the board via LEDs and the meter, switch between input and output voltage when firing, it's a great board.

It's also super easy and simple to wire up. Everything is clearly labeled and each solder pad and hole terminal has ample room for any wire a modder would use for each connection, from potentiometer to meter to 510 to battery and then the switch. It's quite simple to get set up, so for any newer box modders, don't shy away from trying this board out.

Though to those of you who don't make mods, I advise you try a iPWM powered mod out. It's 2S-4S in the sled (Li-Ion) version and 2S-6S in the Lipo version. It can adjust all the way down to around 0.5V even in 6S mode, so it can suit vaping ranges from 5W to 5,000W. It even goes through a diagnostics check each time you insert the battery. It's a responsive little board that fits nicely in pretty much anything and can do a LOT for not a lot of investment. There's a ton of modders out there who offer iPWM mods, though I truly recommend the more adventurous of you to try making a mod for yourself. The process is quite relaxing and you may be surprised at just how easy it is once you learn basic things like soldering and drilling.

Otherwise, to the every day vaper, I still feel like an iPWM mod would serve you well. If you ever get a chance to put one of these boards in a mod or to purchase a mod powered by one, I do recommend it. They really are wonderful little PWM boards with nice features. A dual 21700 or even 20700 iPWM could put out around 5-300W and fit in a small 1590G/1550P enclosure to boot. That's a super pocket friendly, durable, nice looking mod that puts out a power range that would satisfy 95% of vapers. Sure there is no temperature control or custom screens, and since it's only a voltage display you will have to do some ohm's law calculations for your wattage, but otherwise it has a lot of advantages compared to your typical mods. Give it a shot, truly. All of the things that may have put you off from PWM before like the annoying buzz, a low power range and etc. aren't present at all on this board.

To any of you who own iPWM mods, please post and tell me how you've liked them and how they've lasted. I've only been using the boards for a month but so far it's smooth sailing, and I wouldn't mind hearing how other people like the board. That's mainly why I posted this. I know Manny ordered an iPWM mod a while ago and Anthony said he had one, but other than those two and my own customers I don't really know anybody who has used these boards. Also John (Big Al) is a great fucking dude so I can't recommend his shit enough. Amazing customer support skills on top of a great product line.
 
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KingPin!

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Not really a review, I just wanted a place to actually discuss this, as my vendor thread where I sell mods is about selling mods, not discussing their specific parts in detail. My modding threads don't really go too much into detail about this board either. So I wanted a place where I could, as I love the hell out of this board and I truly find it disappointing that more people haven't at least heard of it as it's been giving me the best vape I've ever had.

I'm sure between my PWM thread and just being around the block, most of you are familiar with PWM, at least to a certain degree. PWM (Pulse Width Modulation) is where the input voltage is regulated out in an extremely fast switching fashion. You use a potentiometer to control how fast/often the timer switches, thus controlling the overall average output power. With RMS PWM, you can get even more accurate than the duty cycle action.

The iPWM is obviously a PWM board. Though it's no run of the mill PWM setup, believe me. First of all, it switches at 25Khz, meaning good luck hearing it. It is DEAD ass silent, no buzz/hum, no vibrations. It's also timerless to the best of my knowledge, meaning you're getting one of the most accurate PWM experiences you can get. But it's not just a silent/accurate PWM board, no. It has features that a lot of your typical retail regulated devices have. You can turn the mod output power on or off, check the input voltage (remaining battery life), set a favorite voltage and then go in and out of favorite mode, run diagnostics on the board via LEDs and the meter, switch between input and output voltage when firing, it's a great board.

It's also super easy and simple to wire up. Everything is clearly labeled and each solder pad and hole terminal has ample room for any wire a modder would use for each connection, from potentiometer to meter to 510 to battery and then the switch. It's quite simple to get set up, so for any newer box modders, don't shy away from trying this board out.

Though to those of you who don't make mods, I advise you try a iPWM powered mod out. It's 2S-4S in the sled (Li-Ion) version and 2S-6S in the Lipo version. It can adjust all the way down to around 0.5V even in 6S mode, so it can suit vaping ranges from 5W to 5,000W. It even goes through a diagnostics check each time you insert the battery. It's a responsive little board that fits nicely in pretty much anything and can do a LOT for not a lot of investment. There's a ton of modders out there who offer iPWM mods, though I truly recommend the more adventurous of you to try making a mod for yourself. The process is quite relaxing and you may be surprised at just how easy it is once you learn basic things like soldering and drilling.

Otherwise, to the every day vaper, I still feel like an iPWM mod would serve you well. If you ever get a chance to put one of these boards in a mod or to purchase a mod powered by one, I do recommend it. They really are wonderful little PWM boards with nice features. A dual 21700 or even 20700 iPWM could put out around 5-300W and fit in a small 1590G/1550P enclosure to boot. That's a super pocket friendly, durable, nice looking mod that puts out a power range that would satisfy 95% of vapers. Sure there is no temperature control or custom screens, and since it's only a voltage display you will have to do some ohm's law calculations for your wattage, but otherwise it has a lot of advantages compared to your typical mods. Give it a shot, truly. All of the things that may have put you off from PWM before like the annoying buzz, a low power range and etc. aren't present at all on this board.

To any of you who own iPWM mods, please post and tell me how you've liked them and how they've lasted. I've only been using the boards for a month but so far it's smooth sailing, and I wouldn't mind hearing how other people like the board. That's mainly why I posted this. I know Manny ordered an iPWM mod a while ago and Anthony said he had one, but other than those two and my own customers I don't really know anybody who has used these boards. Also John (Big Al) is a great fucking dude so I can't recommend his shit enough. Amazing customer support skills on top of a great product line.

Mikhail I asked in your other thread mate but hoping to try and make my own mod so if it's ok to ask still what enclosure best suits big als iPWM 4s board with a dual 18650 battery sled ...want to fit a 30mm 510 connector to it so needs to be wide enough for that
I've pencilled in the 1590A enclosure will do the job just wondering if there is any others I should consider that are maybe tiny bit smaller on the width but still manage to fit the fire button, pot and volt reader in as well :)

Happy to pm if you'd prefer that

By the way your mods look sweet mate if it didn't cost so much damn money to ship to uk id deffo be interested
 

Mikhail Naumov

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If I ever don't answer, I didn't notice. In which case PM me, I will always respond to PMs. Always.

The Big Al's PWM boards will fit in pretty much any Hammond style enclosure. So far I can personally attest to it fitting in the 1590A, 1550P/P+, 1590G/G+, 1590B and 1590N1 boxes. The 1590A and 1550P are the smallest of these, and it definitely will fit. The one thing that may not fit is your 30mm 510 and possibly the batteries. An A box will fit a 30mm 510 on top, but a P barely fits a 24mm.

I can fit a Turnigy 1,500mah NanoTech 35C-70C, a 22mm low profile VT V2 510, 12mm Mitec, XT60, wiring, a .28 in volt meter and the BA Lipo board in a 1590G+, it's tight, but it fits.

I can also fit a triple 18650 series iPWM in a 1550p with an internal/hidden volt meter behind the lid instead of exposed off to the side where they normally are on my mods. So there's a lot you can do with the smaller enclosures, it'll fit in all of them, you'll just have to size parts and battery accordingly.

Thanks for the complement man, and FC Int. shipping is around $23 and that's the cheapest option so I definitely feel you there.
 

KingPin!

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If I ever don't answer, I didn't notice. In which case PM me, I will always respond to PMs. Always.

The Big Al's PWM boards will fit in pretty much any Hammond style enclosure. So far I can personally attest to it fitting in the 1590A, 1550P/P+, 1590G/G+, 1590B and 1590N1 boxes. The 1590A and 1550P are the smallest of these, and it definitely will fit. The one thing that may not fit is your 30mm 510 and possibly the batteries. An A box will fit a 30mm 510 on top, but a P barely fits a 24mm.

I can fit a Turnigy 1,500mah NanoTech 35C-70C, a 22mm low profile VT V2 510, 12mm Mitec, XT60, wiring, a .28 in volt meter and the BA Lipo board in a 1590G+, it's tight, but it fits.

I can also fit a triple 18650 series iPWM in a 1550p with an internal/hidden volt meter behind the lid instead of exposed off to the side where they normally are on my mods. So there's a lot you can do with the smaller enclosures, it'll fit in all of them, you'll just have to size parts and battery accordingly.

Thanks for the complement man, and FC Int. shipping is around $23 and that's the cheapest option so I definitely feel you there.

Awesome thanks Mikhail I don't actually want a Hammond gonna use an alternative cause I don't want the "lean" but most others seem to use thier sizes as standards, it's more difficult to source materials for this lot in the uk so gonna do some hunting for the enclosure :)
 

Mikhail Naumov

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Awesome thanks Mikhail I don't actually want a Hammond gonna use an alternative cause I don't want the "lean" but most others seem to use thier sizes as standards, it's more difficult to source materials for this lot in the uk so gonna do some hunting for the enclosure :)

I don't use Hammonds either, I use the ATI CNC versions that have no lean, hidden magnets and anodized paint jobs. Much better enclosures. I also use stab wood boxes and 3D prints, but not as often.
 

KingPin!

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I don't use Hammonds either, I use the ATI CNC versions that have no lean, hidden magnets and anodized paint jobs. Much better enclosures. I also use stab wood boxes and 3D prints, but not as often.

Stab wood is awesome one for the future don't wanna shank one of them for my first go! that'll be an expensive mistake lol
 

Mikhail Naumov

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Stab wood is awesome one for the future don't wanna shank one of them for my first go lol that'll be an expensive mistake lol

My source charges around $180 for his cheapest enclosure, typically around $250 for a resin injected stab wood enclosure, as high as $430 for some. So again, definitely understand where you're coming from there. Though my source does CNC cut the holes for me, so there's no risk of that for me. Most stab wood vendors should, as drilling through shit that nice is basically a sin.
 

conanthewarrior

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I really would like a nice PWM mod, but I will admit I do not think I have the skills to make one myself right now.

I can do basic soldering, but I do not fully understand symbols in schematics when they are written down. Do you know of any guides to build a simple PWM box mod that are in an easy to understand format- as in with images? Or would I be best learning what these symbols mean, or finding someone else to do the build for me?

If it will not take too long to learn, it would be a fun project, I am just unsure how much I would need to learn before undertaking making a mod.
 

Mikhail Naumov

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I really would like a nice PWM mod, but I will admit I do not think I have the skills to make one myself right now.

I can do basic soldering, but I do not fully understand symbols in schematics when they are written down. Do you know of any guides to build a simple PWM box mod that are in an easy to understand format- as in with images? Or would I be best learning what these symbols mean, or finding someone else to do the build for me?

If it will not take too long to learn, it would be a fun project, I am just unsure how much I would need to learn before undertaking making a mod.

My pinned modding parts awards thread in the performance modifications section of the forums is a good one, also my other guide to modding in general which is linked in my signature along with my iPWM sales thread.

If you're truly interested I will insert myself into your life via Skype and walk you through every step. Point out every part to buy, the best and the most affordable. I will help you craft the perfection you deserve and I won't charge you a dime. I love teaching people how to make mods, it's literally my favorite thing on this Earth to do. I've only been selling mods for about a month, but I've been making them for almost five years and I've lived and learned through every mistake in the book. So I can teach a lot to anyone willing to listen.
 

Mikhail Naumov

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big-als-side-mount-6s-ipwm-wiring-diagram.jpg


There's a version that includes the pot mounted on the board. I recommend buying a dripp3d CNC bezel (As you can insert the pot from the back, opposed to the front like a lot of bezels including Big Al's) and an iPWM with the pot already on it, then once wired up you can simply cut a hole in a bigger piece of heat shrink (to allow the pot to stick through), seal it up, then use glue around the pot sides and press it into the mounted bezel on the box. This not only serves as a board mount, but makes things look very clean and uniform as well. I don't even bother heat shrinking my boards like this as there's virtually zero chances of a short unless something conductive was tossed carelessly into the box, but to each their own. This is the lipo board diagram, for the sled version, here:

1007-3.jpg


This version is made to be easily mounted atop a battery sled. There is no mounted pot option for this one, unfortunately, but it's still simple as hell to wire up.

Lipo 2S-6S iPWM w/ Pot: http://www.bigalsmods.com/product-p/1009.htm (There's a version without the pot attached, as well.)

Li-Ion 2S-4S Sled iPWM: http://www.bigalsmods.com/product-p/1007.htm

1K Ohm Potentiometer: http://www.bigalsmods.com/product-p/1104.htm

Bezel: http://dripp3d.com/CNC-Anodized-Aluminum-Potentiometer-Bezel/

For your firing switch, 510 connector, enclosure & magnets, XT60 connector and volt meter, the ATI (Alpinetech) store on Ebay/Amazon is a one stop shop for all of it. Also a good place (not from ATI but on the websites) to order good quality copper silicone wire.
 

Sonar505

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I did have a look at your other post Mikhail (if you're around). Some of the information was a bit over my head in relation to batteries (reference to 2s,4s and 6s Li lion and L lipo?) . I did note the reference to 2s lipo and dual 18650/26650 having a range of .5v-8.1v on a full charge (25R and HG2 are 4.2V , around 20A on a full charge in a DRAG? Is it amps or volts are different in series or parallel ?) I don't understand the procedure of increasing the potentiometer setting as the charge decreases....again please forgive my ignorance, seeking knowledge, particularly about the iPWM.

I don't think you are going to get a reply from him. Do yourself a favor and read all of this thread or at least the last few pages. Before you continue asking questions from him or God forbid decide to try and order something from him.
http://vapingunderground.com/thread...d-more-by-mikhail-naumov.323850/#post-1720341
 

Theserialvapist

Member For 1 Year
Know this is pretty much a dead thread now but just to chip in, I've built 2 mods with this board. 1 for me and one for a mate. Absolutely love them. More bang for buck than you would expect and even for an utter noob Mod builder like me it's more than usable. Big enough to not be intimidating to a novice solderer yet small enough to fit above a 3s sled in a 1590b style box. (I've not done it yet as I don't have the skills but I don't doubt that someone better than me can) can't recommend this board enough.
 

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