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decision??

Bow2King

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guys need some help making a decision I've been using a itaste mvp v2 for about 2 months now and wanted to get a new mod, was looking at the new rdna 40, but i don't do rebuildables, so the temp control is out for me and i def need something with some power because i am def going to be trying out the new atlantis tank and the kangertech, should i just go for a rdna 30, or just get the 40? or was also looking at a provari, but only 20w, i def want a solid device and not have to worry about it breaking anytime soon, plz steer me in the right direction, any input is grateful!!
 

fury

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I don't have a vapor shark Rdna, but on a pure tech basis your probably better off with a DNA 40.
 

Bow2King

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even though I'm not going to be doing rebuildable?? because thats what it seems its pretty much meant for!!
 

VH fan

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If your going to get a Rdna 40 or a Rdna 30 , really doesn't matter because you should learn to rebuild with both , if you don't you will be so limited by either.

If you plan to stick to the Atlantis or Kangertech only then you will be fine but not many prebuilt replacement head toppers are geared to either of those devices.
 

WiSilverVape

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even though I'm not going to be doing rebuildable?? because thats what it seems its pretty much meant for!!

The thing is, I made the statement I will never rebuild and never do mech mods......now, lets see, 4 mech mods, 6 rebuildables....so yeah, don't assume you never will, this stuff kinda grows on ya
 

Bow2King

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i just don't have time for rebuildable because I'm always on the go i did see the new tanks that were coming out by aspire and kangertech, which is what i would be leaning towards just not sure which mod to get really!!
 

Bow2King

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The thing is, I made the statement I will never rebuild and never do mech mods......now, lets see, 4 mech mods, 6 rebuildables....so yeah, don't assume you never will, this stuff kinda grows on ya

not saying that i will never just saying that as of now I'm not!
 

UncleRJ

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The Dovpo E-MECH is a 30 watt mod well worth you attention.

And will save you some money as well. Plus the fact that it holds 2 X 18650 batteries so it will last quite a while between charges.
 

VH fan

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i just don't have time for rebuildable because I'm always on the go i did see the new tanks that were coming out by aspire and kangertech, which is what i would be leaning towards just not sure which mod to get really!!

It really takes no time at all to rebuild , if you sit there for 15 minutes something's wrong , a couple minutes tops is all it takes.
 

VH fan

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The Dovpo E-MECH is a 30 watt mod well worth you attention.

And will save you some money as well. Plus the fact that it holds 2 X 18650 batteries so it will last quite a while between charges.


Got to admit that one does fit what he's looking for , good call RJ.
 

fury

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Sure, if the choice is a new device with year old dna 30 tech or newer dna 40 for 20 bucks more your better off with the 40. Its not about the watts or temp control specifically. Either device will need a solid atomizer like one of the options you mentioned. While the temp control might be nice you don't have to use it and you don't need all 30/40 watts.

Both devices would be about the same with an aspire or kanger tank at 15 watts. Decide to try something more later and the 40 has a little more room to grow, and some additional safety features over the 30.
 

WiSilverVape

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Sure, if the choice is a new device with year old dna 30 tech or newer dna 40 for 20 bucks more your better off with the 40. Its not about the watts or temp control specifically. Either device will need a solid atomizer like one of the options you mentioned. While the temp control might be nice you don't have to use it and you don't need all 30/40 watts.

Both devices would be about the same with an aspire or kanger tank at 15 watts. Decide to try something more later and the 40 has a little more room to grow, and some additional safety features over the 30.

that's what I was trying to get across - you put it much better
 

fury

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was also looking at other mods such as the p3 too but

No one will accuse vapers of not having enough choices when it comes to devices. I prefer box mods and think you need better head room over the provari 3. Such a great company though - they need to add a box to the provape family of devices.
 

Bow2King

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No one will accuse vapers of not having enough choices when it comes to devices. I prefer box mods and think you need better head room over the provari 3. Such a great company though - they need to add a box to the provape family of devices.

i agree with you I'm not a completely experienced vapor but i have been doing my research!!
 

VH fan

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If your not going to rebuild as you said , i don't see any of these higher priced higher wattage mods worthwhile . I think most think you WILL rebuild after you get one and if thats the case go for it but if you will definitely not be rebuilding than you are clearly wasting your money.

Unless you can be happy with sticking with the very limited selection of toppers that you will be able to use . Spending that kind of dough for vaping on clearo's and the Atlantis may be A OK with you though.
 
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M5amhan

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i def mine as well just get the rdna 40 for the extra $20
good call, plus in time you will be able to get temp control replacement heads for all the good tanks on the market and i have a feeling using temp control on those heads will make them last much longer. plus as already mentioned you will end up rebuilding at some point and will want to play with the temp control, and for the price the rdna40 build quality is nearly unmatched.

then just to add one more reason these 0.5 ohm heads coming from aspire and kanger can handle 40 watts and may need it if thats what you like
 

VH fan

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good call, plus in time you will be able to get temp control replacement heads for all the good tanks on the market and i have a feeling using temp control on those heads will make them last much longer. plus as already mentioned you will end up rebuilding at some point and will want to play with the temp control, and for the price the rdna40 build quality is nearly unmatched.

then just to add one more reason these 0.5 ohm heads coming from aspire and kanger can handle 40 watts and may need it if thats what you like


If they can handle that then i will have to alter my comments lol.
 

UncleRJ

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was also looking at other mods such as the p3 too but


Dude, I can't stress this enough to you. Get what you want and not what the Vaping Underground Peanut Gallery is telling you to get.

In particular ME!

The thing is when you ask a group of vapers one question, you will get 20 plus different answers. And they are all right in their own way. And we all have our most favorite vape toys and we are loyal to them.

IMHO, 30 watts would be just fine for you. Hell I have a freaking 100 watt mod and I don't go much over 20 watts with my RBAs (rebuildables).

And I have a Vaporshark DNA 20 for when I am out in public and want a low profile and I use a Kanger ProTank 2 on that and it works fine for me.

As far as RBAs are concerned, if you are like most of us, EVENTUALLY you will get into them.

And they are just fine for on the go as well. The builds if done well (and it ain't that hard) last for quite awhile. And you can always carry a spare clearomizer with you if your build goes south on you during the day. And once you have them and know how to build the suckers and once you have the tools, wire and wick they are a lot cheaper to run Vs replaceable heads.

But whatever you get, invest in Quality!

And never, ever, never get the nice shiney new vape toy as soon as it hits the shelves. Wait for a few months and read the reviews from folks that have been using them for a bit.

Going to take my meds now........................
 

fury

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Dude, I can't stress this enough to you. Get what you want and not what the Vaping Underground Peanut Gallery is telling you to get.

In particular ME!

The thing is when you ask a group of vapers one question, you will get 20 plus different answers. And they are all right in their own way. And we all have our most favorite vape toys and we are loyal to them.

IMHO, 30 watts would be just fine for you. Hell I have a freaking 100 watt mod and I don't go much over 20 watts with my RBAs (rebuildables).

And I have a Vaporshark DNA 20 for when I am out in public and want a low profile and I use a Kanger ProTank 2 on that and it works fine for me.

As far as RBAs are concerned, if you are like most of us, EVENTUALLY you will get into them.

And they are just fine for on the go as well. The builds if done well (and it ain't that hard) last for quite awhile. And you can always carry a spare clearomizer with you if your build goes south on you during the day. And once you have them and know how to build the suckers and once you have the tools, wire and wick they are a lot cheaper to run Vs replaceable heads.

But whatever you get, invest in Quality!

And never, ever, never get the nice shiney new vape toy as soon as it hits the shelves. Wait for a few months and read the reviews from folks that have been using them for a bit.

Going to take my meds now........................

But uncleRJ - we love our shiney new vape toys! Darn common sense! o_O
 

VH fan

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Dude, I can't stress this enough to you. Get what you want and not what the Vaping Underground Peanut Gallery is telling you to get.

In particular ME!

The thing is when you ask a group of vapers one question, you will get 20 plus different answers. And they are all right in their own way. And we all have our most favorite vape toys and we are loyal to them.

IMHO, 30 watts would be just fine for you. Hell I have a freaking 100 watt mod and I don't go much over 20 watts with my RBAs (rebuildables).

And I have a Vaporshark DNA 20 for when I am out in public and want a low profile and I use a Kanger ProTank 2 on that and it works fine for me.

As far as RBAs are concerned, if you are like most of us, EVENTUALLY you will get into them.

And they are just fine for on the go as well. The builds if done well (and it ain't that hard) last for quite awhile. And you can always carry a spare clearomizer with you if your build goes south on you during the day. And once you have them and know how to build the suckers and once you have the tools, wire and wick they are a lot cheaper to run Vs replaceable heads.

But whatever you get, invest in Quality!

And never, ever, never get the nice shiney new vape toy as soon as it hits the shelves. Wait for a few months and read the reviews from folks that have been using them for a bit.

Going to take my meds now........................

Stay away from the meds , you make perfect sense already . On another note and this is directed at the OP , just about all request for "what mod to get" come from people who don't know what their vaping preferences are , when you are unsure of what you like it's impossible for others to give good recommendations .

Your initial comments said you want something that lasts and lasts and to be honest , the Provari fits that description as you mentioned , your used to vaping on an MVP (one of my favorites actually) so jumping from that to a 100 watt or 40 watt device is a huge jump .

If you know what your preferences are you will be able to make a decision a lot easier. I used an MVP for a long time and still do because my 30 watt devices , while nice, did not provide a better vape to me .

My preferences, i found out are lower wattage devices but everyones different.
 

Bow2King

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Dude, I can't stress this enough to you. Get what you want and not what the Vaping Underground Peanut Gallery is telling you to get.

In particular ME!

The thing is when you ask a group of vapers one question, you will get 20 plus different answers. And they are all right in their own way. And we all have our most favorite vape toys and we are loyal to them.

IMHO, 30 watts would be just fine for you. Hell I have a freaking 100 watt mod and I don't go much over 20 watts with my RBAs (rebuildables).

And I have a Vaporshark DNA 20 for when I am out in public and want a low profile and I use a Kanger ProTank 2 on that and it works fine for me.

As far as RBAs are concerned, if you are like most of us, EVENTUALLY you will get into them.

And they are just fine for on the go as well. The builds if done well (and it ain't that hard) last for quite awhile. And you can always carry a spare clearomizer with you if your build goes south on you during the day. And once you have them and know how to build the suckers and once you have the tools, wire and wick they are a lot cheaper to run Vs replaceable heads.

But whatever you get, invest in Quality!

And never, ever, never get the nice shiney new vape toy as soon as it hits the shelves. Wait for a few months and read the reviews from folks that have been using them for a bit.

Going to take my meds now........................

i know I'm going to get 20 different answers to this question but sometimes someones input helps!!
 

Fictitious Character

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If they can handle that then i will have to alter my comments lol.
Yeah Phil B has a video using it on a dna 40 flask at like 35 watts or something. Looks like an interesting tank but I wish the tank was larger. Waiting to see what the Kanger version is like.
 

WiSilverVape

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But uncleRJ - we love our shiney new vape toys! Darn common sense! o_O

Yeah, uncleRJ is like that fuddy duddy relative that sneaks up on you and says "stop making Timmy do those humiliating tricks". Damn it, I was about to suggest buying a 2000 dollar tube mod with pretty engravings. Man, no fun anymore. :confused::oops:
 

SHOUTCAST

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From the videos of the Atlantis most people have said that around 35 watts or higher is where you should be.. Not that I know anything. Maybe a nice 50 watt device would be a good middle ground. the rdna 40 sounds nice but expensive.
 

VH fan

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RJ's Dovpo pick is a good one and would work well with the things the OP is used to using and also provide higher wattage to satisfy those needs .

These days i still like the cheap Hana mod clones because many our a major bang for your buck success and also allow you to easily replace the chip with an Evolve if you decide to do so.

Very tough to beat 30 and 50 watt box mods priced no higher than $45.00 - $55.00 with a solid enclosure that will last and last for future DIY interests.
 

Bow2King

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yea the rdna 40 is def a lil pricey, just trying to figure out what would be the best one for me and also has quality!!
 

2ndInCommand

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I've got 11 different mods from rdna to provaris to mechs to ect. RJ had the best advice Invest in quality. IF you get into rebuilding, you will probably go the kayfun to start route. So something quality, that will work perfectly with both aspire tanks and entry level rebuildables, and is still new and cool? Easy answer, invest in a p3. You don't need some untested 50 plus watt who knows what. Quality quality quality. An rdna 30 would be a close second for your needs.
 

Bow2King

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was
I've got 11 different mods from rdna to provaris to mechs to ect. RJ had the best advice Invest in quality. IF you get into rebuilding, you will probably go the kayfun to start route. So something quality, that will work perfectly with both aspire tanks and entry level rebuildables, and is still new and cool? Easy answer, invest in a p3. You don't need some untested 50 plus watt who knows what. Quality quality quality. An rdna 30 would be a close second for your needs.

was also looking at a p3 but the 20w, just wish it was at least 30w just and case down the road i needed more wattage, i understand the p3 is as solid as they come!!
 

UncleRJ

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Yeah, uncleRJ is like that fuddy duddy relative that sneaks up on you and says "stop making Timmy do those humiliating tricks". Damn it, I was about to suggest buying a 2000 dollar tube mod with pretty engravings. Man, no fun anymore. :confused::oops:

Well, truth be told I am an old "Fuddy Duddy"

And I quite like being one :)

I also like abusing "Timmy" as well as the next vaper as long as he keeps falling down wells and goes missing because he finds Grandpas moonshine in the woods, goes into an alcohol coma, vomits all over the place and fills his pants with shit.

And even Lassy no longer wants to find his sorry ass because he is too freaking stupid to live!

And not to mention the deleted scenes where Lassy is humping Timmys legg for hours on end?

I forget, what was the point you were trying to make?
 

WiSilverVape

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Well, truth be told I am an old "Fuddy Duddy"

And I quite like being one :)

I also like abusing "Timmy" as well as the next vaper as long as he keeps falling down wells and goes missing because he finds Grandpas moonshine in the woods, goes into an alcohol coma, vomits all over the place and fills his pants with shit.

And even Lassy no longer wants to find his sorry ass because he is too freaking stupid to live!

I forget, what was the point you were trying to make?


Beats the hell out of me...but, I have always wondered how "woof, woof" meant "Timmy's fallen into the well" on lassie. But hey, now I am showing my age.
 

VH fan

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was


was also looking at a p3 but the 20w, just wish it was at least 30w just and case down the road i needed more wattage, i understand the p3 is as solid as they come!!


The Provari's didn't become popular for wattage anyway , they provide a stellar vape and will most likely last a lifetime . I don't even go 20 watts with any of my RDA's and they perform great.
 

2ndInCommand

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What he said^ I've been over 20 watts one time. You can go.down to..7 on a.p3, And as a.not yet even new rebuilder, I.wouldn't recommend going lower anyway until you can.master simpler builds. I mean don't take it the wrong way, but you aint gonna start out with a .14 quad coil I hope.
 

Saddletramp1200

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The Sigeli 100 watt is nice. Paid 91.00 for mine. It will melt stuff if you want it too. There about 70.00 now.
 

Bow2King

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well i def wanted to try out the new tanks that were coming out from aspire and kangertech and i believe they are a .5!!
 

Saddletramp1200

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well i def wanted to try out the new tanks that were coming out from aspire and kangertech and i believe they are a .5!!
I got the Kanger Mega just today. I have had the Pro Tank three for ages. It is a sweet tank that don't leak at all. This Mega is putting out some great flavor & good clouds. And I think it's safe to take on the bike.
 

fury

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I'll add a + for the Sigelei 100 watt. My only gripes with it are the 510 connector and the size. It's a well built box and at 70 - 80 bucks its a bargain. You will also need to add to the price a good set of high amp batteries and a charger - so probably another 40 or so. On the other hand the batteries will last for days at lower wattage and when you're ready for the .5 it will stand ready to melt your face off. Not really. Let me just say the first time I was handed a sub ohm setup (.08) and they didn't warn me about what was coming - yeah I'll edit my comments - I still took a second pull though.

The deal with the higher watt dual battery setups is that you need to spend some time learning about more advanced battery safety. No mater what you end up with you should spend some time on battery safety before you take on the sub coils.

Size is also something to consider. I think coming from an MVP the sig would feel like suitcase - not very pocket friendly.
 

Saddletramp1200

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Yea, size matters. I dropped a Vamo 5 on the freeway. Didn't even try to find it. I got an estick or what ever they are called. 20w is good for anything I do when outside. 1 18650 runs it all day for me.
e this,e that, starting to sound like Mc D's. :rolleyes:
 

rdsok

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I'll second the motion to go with a good quality device like those made by Provari or Vaporshark... I personally just got the Vaporshark DNA 30 for it's size/weight and the fact that it can reach the higher wattage outputs when asked of it. When using typical factory coil setups like those by Aspire or Kanger... they work great also... these devices aren't only for RBA/RDA's even if a lot of people are using them for that purpose. For home... I'm currently using the A-Mod ZNA clone with the CDNA 30w chip, at work I've got the Kangside VAMO 30w ( yeah, the cruddy one... lol ) and I carry the Vaporshark DNA 30 for out and about.

There is also a misconception about sub-ohm and how that is the only way to get a good vape... This was brought about by those using mech mod's that had no other choice but to sub-ohm in order to get the power outputs they were looking for. With a good regulated mod and a tank/dripper or whatever setup properly... you don't have to sub-ohm to get a good vape. In fact, it's actually inefficient to go that way and is a waste of batteries. This misconception is being enforced by the current markets clearos and atties that use thin gauge wire which doesn't have the larger surface area and also can't take too high of a power output without burning out. I suspect it will take time for everyone to get over that misconception because of how long the mech mod's have "ruled" in this area... Sub-ohming will always be needed for the mechs... Regulated mod users will at some point realize they can build with more efficient higher ohm coils that have more surface area and further extend their battery life because of it.

I think I can easily recommend either the Provari or the Vaporshark rDNA 40 to any user... if they think they may try higher power setups, I'd lean them towards the Vaporshark just because it'll handle higher power atties better. While I love my Vaporshark DNA 30... it's limited battery ( 1300mah ) would concern me as would it not being able to go below 7w for those that like lower power outputs.

Going further... the other consideration not brought up directly... is the battery life. Both the Provari and Vaporshark DNA 40 only have a single 18650. If the user doesn't mind carrying an extra battery... that is fine... but it's also a good reason to consider the 2 battery units like the one mentioned earlier.
 

Nancy_Bout

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Dopvo or the eleaf istick it may be small for some attys but that thing works amazing!
 

VH fan

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I'll second the motion to go with a good quality device like those made by Provari or Vaporshark... I personally just got the Vaporshark DNA 30 for it's size/weight and the fact that it can reach the higher wattage outputs when asked of it. When using typical factory coil setups like those by Aspire or Kanger... they work great also... these devices aren't only for RBA/RDA's even if a lot of people are using them for that purpose. For home... I'm currently using the A-Mod ZNA clone with the CDNA 30w chip, at work I've got the Kangside VAMO 30w ( yeah, the cruddy one... lol ) and I carry the Vaporshark DNA 30 for out and about.

There is also a misconception about sub-ohm and how that is the only way to get a good vape... This was brought about by those using mech mod's that had no other choice but to sub-ohm in order to get the power outputs they were looking for. With a good regulated mod and a tank/dripper or whatever setup properly... you don't have to sub-ohm to get a good vape. In fact, it's actually inefficient to go that way and is a waste of batteries. This misconception is being enforced by the current markets clearos and atties that use thin gauge wire which doesn't have the larger surface area and also can't take too high of a power output without burning out. I suspect it will take time for everyone to get over that misconception because of how long the mech mod's have "ruled" in this area... Sub-ohming will always be needed for the mechs... Regulated mod users will at some point realize they can build with more efficient higher ohm coils that have more surface area and further extend their battery life because of it.

I think I can easily recommend either the Provari or the Vaporshark rDNA 40 to any user... if they think they may try higher power setups, I'd lean them towards the Vaporshark just because it'll handle higher power atties better. While I love my Vaporshark DNA 30... it's limited battery ( 1300mah ) would concern me as would it not being able to go below 7w for those that like lower power outputs.

Going further... the other consideration not brought up directly... is the battery life. Both the Provari and Vaporshark DNA 40 only have a single 18650. If the user doesn't mind carrying an extra battery... that is fine... but it's also a good reason to consider the 2 battery units like the one mentioned earlier.


While that's true it is not happening at this point , read comments just about anywhere with people using regulated devices and most will admit they are still building in the sub ohm range.
 

Bow2King

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I'll second the motion to go with a good quality device like those made by Provari or Vaporshark... I personally just got the Vaporshark DNA 30 for it's size/weight and the fact that it can reach the higher wattage outputs when asked of it. When using typical factory coil setups like those by Aspire or Kanger... they work great also... these devices aren't only for RBA/RDA's even if a lot of people are using them for that purpose. For home... I'm currently using the A-Mod ZNA clone with the CDNA 30w chip, at work I've got the Kangside VAMO 30w ( yeah, the cruddy one... lol ) and I carry the Vaporshark DNA 30 for out and about.

There is also a misconception about sub-ohm and how that is the only way to get a good vape... This was brought about by those using mech mod's that had no other choice but to sub-ohm in order to get the power outputs they were looking for. With a good regulated mod and a tank/dripper or whatever setup properly... you don't have to sub-ohm to get a good vape. In fact, it's actually inefficient to go that way and is a waste of batteries. This misconception is being enforced by the current markets clearos and atties that use thin gauge wire which doesn't have the larger surface area and also can't take too high of a power output without burning out. I suspect it will take time for everyone to get over that misconception because of how long the mech mod's have "ruled" in this area... Sub-ohming will always be needed for the mechs... Regulated mod users will at some point realize they can build with more efficient higher ohm coils that have more surface area and further extend their battery life because of it.

I think I can easily recommend either the Provari or the Vaporshark rDNA 40 to any user... if they think they may try higher power setups, I'd lean them towards the Vaporshark just because it'll handle higher power atties better. While I love my Vaporshark DNA 30... it's limited battery ( 1300mah ) would concern me as would it not being able to go below 7w for those that like lower power outputs.

Going further... the other consideration not brought up directly... is the battery life. Both the Provari and Vaporshark DNA 40 only have a single
18650. If the user doesn't mind carrying an extra battery... that is fine... but it's also a good reason to consider the 2 battery units like the one mentioned earlier.

well thats what I'm leaning towards is a rdna40 because i feel like the p3 might not have enough power the way i wanted to try going and if i do get into rebuildables 40w should be plenty, i def don't need a 100w box mod for myself and also the vapor shark is small and compact which i like!!
 

SHOUTCAST

Bronze Contributor
Member For 4 Years
I am not that impressed with the rdna 30 vapershark.. Build quality is not that great.. for one the positive and negative contacts are always pushing down making the battery go lose. Also there are gaps by the 510 pin leading into the inside of the device.. so juice can easily fall into it.. also the paint on it starts to chip away not too long after owning it.. I don't know.. maybe i am being too critical but for the price i paid i feel I shouldn't be having any of those issues.
 

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