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help 0.06 ohm

hello ive been building for a little while now and ive made up a 0.06 ohm stainless steel coil on a 3 coils deck the ijoy maxo v12 and im running it and the wismec rx 27000 im just wondering if its safe and what i should run at.
 

Fudgey Finger

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It depends on your batteries' CDR than anything. The rx 20700 has plenty of protections so you shouldn't need to worry too much though as it SHOULD not fire in unsafe conditions. If you want to play it safe, use an ohms law calculator to find out what you will be drawing for amps at your desired wattage and make sure it won't go over the CDR of the batteries in your mod.
 

SkoldVape

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The ijoy 27000 is the best one so good start but why do you feel the need to build so low.
I build to 0.16 and wouldn't go below that
 
i waset teying to build that low ive been workign on gettijg the helix down and i finally got it i did not think it would ohm out the low i think its cause the only rebuildable i have rn is a 3 coil on so its 3 6 wrap helix coils
 

SkoldVape

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If you used some 0.9 claptons you wouldn't build to low.
I used to use 0.9 in a dual and it came to roughly 0.3
 

Fudgey Finger

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i was thinkinout temp control cause my mod can only run a build that low of ohma in tc and there ijoy 27000 there 40a im looking at it rn
99% of batteries are over-rated. That specific cell is rated at 30A by Mooch, who is pretty much the authority on vape batteries. Here is his test of the Ijoy 20700 3000mah https://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/t...ults-overrated-but-a-good-30a-battery.798323/

Build however you want as long as you are within the realm of safety. In this case I woudn't go above 45A. Just keep an eye on the amps on the screen when you first fire it, then a second or so into firing. If it doesn't go above 45A you should be fine. It wouldn't be bad practice to occasionally check as the current will change as the cell is depleted.

Good luck with the helix. It always makes me laugh when people say "don't build so low" without giving any solid reason why you shouldn't. They obviously haven't tried big complex builds. When you are first learning it's easy to accidentally build too low, but you still want to try out your creation! If you are attempting big chunky builds, it's obviously because you want something other than a simple clapton.
 

SkoldVape

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99% of batteries are over-rated. That specific cell is rated at 30A by Mooch, who is pretty much the authority on vape batteries. Here is his test of the Ijoy 20700 3000mah https://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/t...ults-overrated-but-a-good-30a-battery.798323/

Build however you want as long as you are within the realm of safety. In this case I woudn't go above 45A. Just keep an eye on the amps on the screen when you first fire it, then a second or so into firing. If it doesn't go above 45A you should be fine. It wouldn't be bad practice to occasionally check as the current will change as the cell is depleted.

Good luck with the helix. It always makes me laugh when people say "don't build so low" without giving any solid reason why you shouldn't. They obviously haven't tried big complex builds. When you are first learning it's easy to accidentally build too low, but you still want to try out your creation! If you are attempting big chunky builds, it's obviously because you want something other than a simple clapton.
I question if someone wants to build low but I've nothing against it as most of my builds are 0.10 to 0.16 but I've never needed to go below 0.1 however if it's within the safety rules I say why the fuck not and I understand why he is :)
 

gbalkam

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I very much doubt the batteries are actually 40a. What wattage are you planning to run it at??
Agree. There is NO WAY those are 40A batteries at 3000mah. Higher MaH = lower cdr. What he has is a re-wrapped factory second, with a label specifically intended to misrepresent the CDR. That, is actually a 20A 3000mah. Probably an LG brown. It is designed for longer run time and sacrifices amperage. The plus side, is LG can take a beating, but since those factory 2nds have already failed manufacturer quality control testing.. I wouldn't trust them in a flashlight.

Sounds to me like the OP watches youtube failtards. No offense to OP but there are a couple things you need to realize when building coils.
Low ohm does not mean better vape. Low ohm means thicker wire, which takes longer to heat, drains batteries. Basically you will spend 3 seconds sucking air. Higher resistance means you can use thinner wire, which heats faster. For flavor you will want something like dual core 26 or 28 ga SS clapton.

http://www.steam-engine.org/coil.html?mat=ss316l&s=tp&r=0.17&hf=290&awg=26&id=3.5 for example is 0.17 ohm, and only requires 100w power.
Wrap with 32ga ss. This is a 6 wrap build.
With that large 3.5mm id core and 12 loops of wire (2x6 wraps) you will have lots of surface are for cloud, faster ramp up, and great flavor (due to the clapton wrapping)

Personally, I prefer kanthal or nichrome cores since they ramp up much faster than SS, and use a higher ga SS wire as a wrap (since SS conducts heat faster) *Think of SS frying pan vs cast iron*

Most of the low ohm builds you find on youtube are either failtards waiting to make the news and lose their face OR advanced vapers that know exactly what they are doing, building competition builds for cloud chasing. AND those advanced vapers would know the difference between an authentic 30A 1500mah battery and a mis-labeled re-wrapped factory 2nd. Just saying, there is a lot to know and consider before going super sub ohm. Rule #1.. vape safe. No exceptions.
 

gbalkam

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It depends on your batteries' CDR than anything. The rx 20700 has plenty of protections so you shouldn't need to worry too much though as it SHOULD not fire in unsafe conditions. If you want to play it safe, use an ohms law calculator to find out what you will be drawing for amps at your desired wattage and make sure it won't go over the CDR of the batteries in your mod.
CDR really isn't important in a regulated mod. The mods front end controller handles amps drawn from the battery. Key word is CONSTANT discharge. Regulated mods work similar to anti-lock breaks in a car. They pulse very quickly to feed power to the 2nd controller which puts out wattage.
Constant discharge rate is specifically... the amount of amps a battery can sustain until fully discharged without exceeding a safe operating temperature. (usually 70 deg C or lower) So literally, you can fire a 20A battery at 0.21 ohm (already did the math) until the battery goes dead. (just like leaving a flashlight on)

Top quality batteries tend to heat up slower than cheap knock offs. Which is why we always recommend spending a couple extra $$ on top quality batteries.
 

Fudgey Finger

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CDR really isn't important in a regulated mod. The mods front end controller handles amps drawn from the battery. Key word is CONSTANT discharge. Regulated mods work similar to anti-lock breaks in a car. They pulse very quickly to feed power to the 2nd controller which puts out wattage.

Then why is it that the live monitor in escribe shows me drawing a constant 35A when firing my DNA? Is it just that it is pulsing so quickly that not even escribe can read it?

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Fudgey Finger

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That, is actually a 20A 3000mah. Probably an LG brown.

Mooch rates his specific cells at 30A as I said above. I also provided a link to the test.

Wrap with 32ga ss.

Personally, I prefer kanthal or nichrome cores since they ramp up much faster than SS, and use a higher ga SS wire as a wrap (since SS conducts heat faster) *Think of SS frying pan vs cast iron*

32g is not a very good choice to Clapton with for flavor as it creates excess turbulence in the chamber. Watch some of Morten Oen's videos on airflow if you don't believe me.

Also if you are going for a faster ramp up then you don't want to use SS, you want to use nichrome. The ss wrap will transfer heat away from the cores faster and will slow your ramp up.

I don't see how any of this helps op with his helix build though. Yeah a Clapton might be a better or more efficient coil, I don't know, but op just wanted to know if he would be safe to fire his creation. Building coils is about more than just making the most efficient heating element, but I'm finding that a lot of people on this forum don't get that.

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gbalkam

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Then why is it that the live monitor in escribe shows me drawing a constant 35A when firing my DNA? Is it just that it is pulsing so quickly that not even escribe can read it?

Sent from my LGL64VL using Tapatalk
It isn't that the escribe can't read it, it is taking the the average amp being sent to the 2nd controller. Now I don't know if the display is a continuous display of the average or if it is just flashing so fast you can't see it. Or it could be the amperage the controller is using. OR I could have misread the article. Other info states the mod limits the amps based on battery and wattage. here is the example I found..
Max Amps Per Battery = 75W / 3.2V = 23.4A So you want a battery that can safely supply 23.4A of current
Pretty much all 20A batteries can easily and safely provide 23.4 amp, since mods are limited to 10 seconds of fire time. Even if you use 30A batteries.. you will still only draw the 23A

Now as vapers we know from research, that brand name batteries we recommend to other vapers (Samsung, Sony, LG) will handle amps that are often higher than the cdr for a short time (10 seconds max) So a 20A cdr is fine in a regulated mod, even if it is pulling 30A for a short time. Regulated mods have safety features that prevent batteries from overheating at this level. Remember, regulated mods have a max wattage which limits amps drawn. Mech mods do not and wattage is purely determined by voltage and resistance, so CDR becomes important in mechs but less so in regulated. *as vapers, we recommend 20A to 30A batteries for regulated mods, because we know they are within our mods "safe" limits. Imagine 24a draw on a 10amp cdr battery. The mod doesn't know what is printed on the label, but it is the chemical make up of the battery that determines CDR. Example.. water turns to steam faster than ejuice turns to vapor.. so compare a cheap battery (water) to a quallity battery (ejuice) to see how one will heat and vent faster. Very simplified terms.. and of course batteries dont run on vape juice. lol.
 

gbalkam

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Mooch rates his specific cells at 30A as I said above. I also provided a link to the test.



32g is not a very good choice to Clapton with for flavor as it creates excess turbulence in the chamber. Watch some of Morten Oen's videos on airflow if you don't believe me.

Also if you are going for a faster ramp up then you don't want to use SS, you want to use nichrome. The ss wrap will transfer heat away from the cores faster and will slow your ramp up.

I don't see how any of this helps op with his helix build though. Yeah a Clapton might be a better or more efficient coil, I don't know, but op just wanted to know if he would be safe to fire his creation. Building coils is about more than just making the most efficient heating element, but I'm finding that a lot of people on this forum don't get that.

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OH I believe you, but 32ga is a good starting level. Those more experienced with wrapping claptons and better eyesight than mine, would go even higher.
 

Fudgey Finger

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Now as vapers we know from research, that brand name batteries we recommend to other vapers (Samsung, Sony, LG) will handle amps that are often higher than the cdr for a short time (10 seconds max) So a 20A cdr is fine in a regulated mod, even if it is pulling 30A for a short time. Regulated mods have safety features that prevent batteries from overheating at this level. Remember, regulated mods have a max wattage which limits amps drawn. Mech mods do not and wattage is purely determined by voltage and resistance, so CDR becomes important in mechs but less so in regulated. *as vapers, we recommend 20A to 30A batteries for regulated mods, because we know they are within our mods "safe" limits. Imagine 24a draw on a 10amp cdr battery. The mod doesn't know what is printed on the label, but it is the chemical make up of the battery that determines CDR. Example.. water turns to steam faster than ejuice turns to vapor.. so compare a cheap battery (water) to a quallity battery (ejuice) to see how one will heat and vent faster. Very simplified terms.. and of course batteries dont run on vape juice. lol.

Exactly what I was saying before you felt the need to let us all know how much you know. Like I said to op before, "The rx 20700 has plenty of protections so you shouldn't need to worry too much though as it SHOULD not fire in unsafe conditions. If you want to play it safe, use an ohms law calculator to find out what you will be drawing for amps at your desired wattage and make sure it won't go over the CDR of the batteries in your mod."

Op's original post was to ask if he was within the realm of safety. That question was answered. Then you and another poster felt the need (as so many on this forum do) to tell him not to build the way he is, but to build the coil that you think is better. I was just giving the op a way to check for himself the amps he will be drawing and how to stay under the cdr, as an extra measure of safety.
 

Fudgey Finger

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OH I believe you, but 32ga is a good starting level. Those more experienced with wrapping claptons and better eyesight than mine, would go even higher.
32g is not a good starting level. You need to use alot more tension to wrap it, which could easily collapse your cores if using any more than 2 cores. It will also ramp up much slower, and then add to the fact that you suggested he uses SS wrap and it will heat even slower. This is all referring to the post you made saying that he should go for a faster ramp up.
 

gbalkam

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Exactly what I was saying before you felt the need to let us all know how much you know. Like I said to op before, "The rx 20700 has plenty of protections so you shouldn't need to worry too much though as it SHOULD not fire in unsafe conditions. If you want to play it safe, use an ohms law calculator to find out what you will be drawing for amps at your desired wattage and make sure it won't go over the CDR of the batteries in your mod."

Op's original post was to ask if he was within the realm of safety. That question was answered. Then you and another poster felt the need (as so many on this forum do) to tell him not to build the way he is, but to build the coil that you think is better. I was just giving the op a way to check for himself the amps he will be drawing and how to stay under the cdr, as an extra measure of safety.
And my answer was in a regulated mod CDR has nothing to do with safety, nor does the resistance of the coil. So a 20a high discharge battery is JUST AS SAFE as a 30A high discharge battery. Max wattage is determined by the manufacturer of the mod, which limits the max amps drawn. So there is no "extra measure of safety" Consider also, we do not vape using a constant discharge.. we PULSE. Regulated mods are limited to 10 seconds. You seem determined to confuse mechanical mods with regulated mods. Where wattage is not limited by the manufacturer. Now using your ohms law calculator.. calculate 220w max at 7.4v (2 cells)..= 29.73A over 40A CDR (2x 20A). Regardless of if you use 2x 20A or 2x 30A you still only draw 29.73A. So stating 30A batteries are safer in regulated mods is incorrect.
 

SkoldVape

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Agree. There is NO WAY those are 40A batteries at 3000mah. Higher MaH = lower cdr. What he has is a re-wrapped factory second, with a label specifically intended to misrepresent the CDR. That, is actually a 20A 3000mah. Probably an LG brown. It is designed for longer run time and sacrifices amperage. The plus side, is LG can take a beating, but since those factory 2nds have already failed manufacturer quality control testing.. I wouldn't trust them in a flashlight.

Sounds to me like the OP watches youtube failtards. No offense to OP but there are a couple things you need to realize when building coils.
Low ohm does not mean better vape. Low ohm means thicker wire, which takes longer to heat, drains batteries. Basically you will spend 3 seconds sucking air. Higher resistance means you can use thinner wire, which heats faster. For flavor you will want something like dual core 26 or 28 ga SS clapton.

http://www.steam-engine.org/coil.html?mat=ss316l&s=tp&r=0.17&hf=290&awg=26&id=3.5 for example is 0.17 ohm, and only requires 100w power.
Wrap with 32ga ss. This is a 6 wrap build.
With that large 3.5mm id core and 12 loops of wire (2x6 wraps) you will have lots of surface are for cloud, faster ramp up, and great flavor (due to the clapton wrapping)

Personally, I prefer kanthal or nichrome cores since they ramp up much faster than SS, and use a higher ga SS wire as a wrap (since SS conducts heat faster) *Think of SS frying pan vs cast iron*

Most of the low ohm builds you find on youtube are either failtards waiting to make the news and lose their face OR advanced vapers that know exactly what they are doing, building competition builds for cloud chasing. AND those advanced vapers would know the difference between an authentic 30A 1500mah battery and a mis-labeled re-wrapped factory 2nd. Just saying, there is a lot to know and consider before going super sub ohm. Rule #1.. vape safe. No exceptions.
Everyone has preference but I feel no need to build below 0.15 and even when I did build to that I was like fuck that's low!
 

gbalkam

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32g is not a good starting level. You need to use alot more tension to wrap it, which could easily collapse your cores if using any more than 2 cores. It will also ramp up much slower, and then add to the fact that you suggested he uses SS wrap and it will heat even slower. This is all referring to the post you made saying that he should go for a faster ramp up.
First, I was staying in line where he said he used SS as core wire. So I used that in the example. 2nd, SS wire conducts heat faster than kanthal or nichrome. Remember, we are not talking about heating under a current load, but transfer of heat from a heated element. Stainless steel is a conductive wire, Kanthal and Nichrome are resistance heating wires. They heat faster under current than SS, but ss conducts heat faster.

As to starting building clapton with 32ga, first you get good at that level, then when you dont have to watch your wire for spacing or back wrapping, THEN you move up to higher ga. Now maybe the op has great eyesight and 34ga works for him. But for most beginners, you need to see if you are doing it right before advancing.
 

SkoldVape

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Exactly what I was saying before you felt the need to let us all know how much you know. Like I said to op before, "The rx 20700 has plenty of protections so you shouldn't need to worry too much though as it SHOULD not fire in unsafe conditions. If you want to play it safe, use an ohms law calculator to find out what you will be drawing for amps at your desired wattage and make sure it won't go over the CDR of the batteries in your mod."

Op's original post was to ask if he was within the realm of safety. That question was answered. Then you and another poster felt the need (as so many on this forum do) to tell him not to build the way he is, but to build the coil that you think is better. I was just giving the op a way to check for himself the amps he will be drawing and how to stay under the cdr, as an extra measure of safety.
He's on about building to 0.006 and doesn't know what the fuck he is doing for fuck sake. We are trying to help him be safe and you think everyone on the forum is wrong. Just cos a mod has safety features doesn't mean you should build that low. Exotic coils don't need to be stupidly low to work right!
 

SkoldVape

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First, I was staying in line where he said he used SS as core wire. So I used that in the example. 2nd, SS wire conducts heat faster than kanthal or nichrome. Remember, we are not talking about heating under a current load, but transfer of heat from a heated element. Stainless steel is a conductive wire, Kanthal and Nichrome are resistance heating wires. They heat faster under current than SS, but ss conducts heat faster.

As to starting building clapton with 32ga, first you get good at that level, then when you dont have to watch your wire for spacing or back wrapping, THEN you move up to higher ga. Now maybe the op has great eyesight and 34ga works for him. But for most beginners, you need to see if you are doing it right before advancing.
Dude don't waste your time with him. He's gonna help op blow his face off. You don't need to build low to get a good vape.
I have 0.2 aliens vaping at 125 watts!
 

gbalkam

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Everyone has preference but I feel no need to build below 0.15 and even when I did build to that I was like fuck that's low!
Agreed. In fact, with regulated mods and proper coil builds, even 0.25 ohm will give a better vape than lower resistance. Depending on wire type.
I will say, I purchased some pre-wound alien wire. Pretty much useless for dual coils. In order to meet a target resistance of even 0.12 ohm, it takes a lot of wraps which heat very slowly. In that case.. I just use a huge RDA lol, but would not purchase that wire again.
 

SkoldVape

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Agreed. In fact, with regulated mods and proper coil builds, even 0.25 ohm will give a better vape than lower resistance. Depending on wire type.
I will say, I purchased some pre-wound alien wire. Pretty much useless for dual coils. In order to meet a target resistance of even 0.12 ohm, it takes a lot of wraps which heat very slowly. In that case.. I just use a huge RDA lol, but would not purchase that wire again.
I had some 0.3 aliens ohming at 0.16 in my dual coil and ended up using them in my tsunami 24 in single coil mode.
I love how you can block off the coil without using a ceramic block or anything and the velocity deck is stupid easy to build on. Only thing I hate is it leaks out A/F I'd you over drip.
I freaking lost my goon so stuck with my cheaper drippers.
Although I have to say I'm loving the gorge single coil. Got it for $25.00 an best money I've ever spent.
I'm going off dual coil a bit. Even my RTA'S are single coil now :)
 

SkoldVape

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Btw for pre mades the Aspire claptons are pretty good. They came installed in the cleito RBA but I still use them.
They are 0.9 so do well in my berserker MTL atty.
 

SkoldVape

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You can push them too 70/80 in dual coil easily.
My nerves haven't been playing up today though so been building my fused claptons :)
 

gbalkam

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I hate it when new members think they know everything
I do appreciate what he was asking. I know it sucks to waste money on vaping wire, but you gotta work within safe margins. Sounds like the wire he is using would be good for single coils, or like what i purchase, good only on a large ID core, say 4.0 or 4.5mm even. Of course I am not telling him what to build at.. just suggesting better builds. I've done my share of building with a SS core (20ga dual coil) and those things are HUGE and suck power like crazy, and ramp up is easily 3 seconds.
 

gbalkam

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i waset teying to build that low ive been workign on gettijg the helix down and i finally got it i did not think it would ohm out the low i think its cause the only rebuildable i have rn is a 3 coil on so its 3 6 wrap helix coils
As a suggestion only.... try using only 2 coils rather than 3. I have decks that will run 6 coils, but I don't actually USE 6 coils. lol The power needed to push them is unreal.
 

Fudgey Finger

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First, I was staying in line where he said he used SS as core wire. So I used that in the example. 2nd, SS wire conducts heat faster than kanthal or nichrome. Remember, we are not talking about heating under a current load, but transfer of heat from a heated element. Stainless steel is a conductive wire, Kanthal and Nichrome are resistance heating wires. They heat faster under current than SS, but ss conducts heat faster.

As to starting building clapton with 32ga, first you get good at that level, then when you dont have to watch your wire for spacing or back wrapping, THEN you move up to higher ga. Now maybe the op has great eyesight and 34ga works for him. But for most beginners, you need to see if you are doing it right before advancing.

You're right, ss conducts heat faster but that doesn't mean a ss wrap will make the coil heat faster, quite the opposite, because the ss had a higher specific heat capacity. The higher specific heat capacity means that the wrap wire will draw more heat away from the cores, increasing ramp up time.

I guess your idea of where to start with claptoning is different than mine, fine we can have different opinions. It won't be a very useful coil though with reg wrap, but I guess building is about how easy it is to make the coil, right? Op did say he's been building for a while btw.

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Fudgey Finger

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Dude don't waste your time with him. He's gonna help op blow his face off. You don't need to build low to get a good vape.
I have 0.2 aliens vaping at 125 watts!
I never said anyone needed to build that low. Op did though and I see no reason why he shouldn't use his coil if he is within safe parameters, which he is with his regulated mod.

Blow his face off? So which is it then? Is he safe in this situation or not? You're buddy seems to think as long as op is using a regulated mod then he can fire away with anything the chip will fire, which I pretty much agree with.

I'm glad I learned something in this thread, with respect to how a regulated mod draws amps. Thanks for that gbalkam.

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SkoldVape

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I never said anyone needed to build that low. Op did though and I see no reason why he shouldn't use his coil if he is within safe parameters, which he is with his regulated mod.

Blow his face off? So which is it then? Is he safe in this situation or not? You're buddy seems to think as long as op is using a regulated mod then he can fire away with anything the chip will fire, which I pretty much agree with.

I'm glad I learned something in this thread, with respect to how a regulated mod draws amps. Thanks for that gbalkam.

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He'll probably be drawing really high amps though so I couldn't really suggest it unless he's looked things up.
Resistance isn't as important with a regulated mod but battery safety definitely is
 

gbalkam

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You're right, ss conducts heat faster but that doesn't mean a ss wrap will make the coil heat faster, quite the opposite, because the ss had a higher specific heat capacity. The higher specific heat capacity means that the wrap wire will draw more heat away from the cores, increasing ramp up time.

I guess your idea of where to start with claptoning is different than mine, fine we can have different opinions. It won't be a very useful coil though with reg wrap, but I guess building is about how easy it is to make the coil, right? Op did say he's been building for a while btw.

Sent from my LGL64VL using Tapatalk

What it means, is that the core wire heats the outer wrap faster and vapor starts faster. I'm not sure why you think the heat from the core wire just magically dissipates into nothing. In fact, using anything other than SS to wrap actually cools the core more, since the outer wrap stays cooler for longer. The faster your outer wrap heats to vape temp, the faster you vape. I don't know why you find this so confusing. Everyone knows you can cook faster in a stainless steel frying pan than you can in a cast iron one, due to the extra time it takes to heat cast iron. Some builders even use sterling silver to wrap with, which heats even faster than stainless steel. Anyway.. I'm done wasting my time explaining something to someone unwilling to learn.
 

Fudgey Finger

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What it means, is that the core wire heats the outer wrap faster and vapor starts faster. I'm not sure why you think the heat from the core wire just magically dissipates into nothing. In fact, using anything other than SS to wrap actually cools the core more, since the outer wrap stays cooler for longer. The faster your outer wrap heats to vape temp, the faster you vape. I don't know why you find this so confusing. Everyone knows you can cook faster in a stainless steel frying pan than you can in a cast iron one, due to the extra time it takes to heat cast iron. Some builders even use sterling silver to wrap with, which heats even faster than stainless steel. Anyway.. I'm done wasting my time explaining something to someone unwilling to learn.
Here. This is something I learned from Carambrda, and then educated myself on more. Notice how he uses facts to get the point across instead of arguments like, "Everyone knows you cook faster with stainless fry pans".
The SS wrap just transfers the heat (energy) away from the cores faster than the N80 wrap does, thereby causing the cores to heat up slower when compared to using the N80 wrap. It means slower heating of the juice that's trapped between the cores and wrap. But you're also forgetting that heat energy is not the same thing as temperature. Look up the "specific heat" (also referred to as "specific heat capacity") for both metal types. If we can assume that both the thickness and the length of the wrap wire are the same, then logically the volume must be the same, but the mass and the density are not. Therefore, we have to convert "specific heat" to "volumetric heat capacity". Volumetric heat capacity equals specific heat multiplied by density. So, because the SS wrap requires more heat energy from the cores before it reaches the same temperate as the N80 wrap, the SS wrap takes longer to reach that same temperature. Finally, because the heat energy that's coming from the cores can only enter the wrap via the wrap's surface, the lower thermal conductivity of N80 causes the N80 wrap's surface to heat up even faster still, i.e., the N80 transfers the heat away from its own surface slower.

Now, because the N80 wrap causes BOTH its own surface AND that of the cores to rise in temperature faster compared to using the SS wrap, the juice starts to evaporate from these surfaces faster compared to using the SS wrap.

Anyway.. I'm done wasting my time explaining something to someone unwilling to learn.
I dont know why you think I'm unwilling to learn. I just said 2 posts ago that I learned a little from you about how a regulated mod draws amps.
 

scalewiz

VU Donator
Bronze Contributor
Member For 4 Years
I'm half drunk..........I was going to.........but I won't. If you need to ask your question, you haven't been building coils long enough; learn ohms law and how it relates to your batteries and device and your builds.

Start with a simpler design until you understand. Don't jump off into the deep end until you learn how to swim.
 

David Wolf

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Member For 2 Years
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And my answer was in a regulated mod CDR has nothing to do with safety, nor does the resistance of the coil. So a 20a high discharge battery is JUST AS SAFE as a 30A high discharge battery. Max wattage is determined by the manufacturer of the mod, which limits the max amps drawn. So there is no "extra measure of safety" Consider also, we do not vape using a constant discharge.. we PULSE. Regulated mods are limited to 10 seconds. You seem determined to confuse mechanical mods with regulated mods. Where wattage is not limited by the manufacturer. Now using your ohms law calculator.. calculate 220w max at 7.4v (2 cells)..= 29.73A over 40A CDR (2x 20A). Regardless of if you use 2x 20A or 2x 30A you still only draw 29.73A. So stating 30A batteries are safer in regulated mods is incorrect.
There are so many things wrong in this post I wouldn’t know where to start correcting it. Safe vaping - don’t exceed the CDR of your battery, it matters.
 

gbalkam

Gold Contributor
Member For 4 Years
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Reddit Exile
There are so many things wrong in this post I wouldn’t know where to start correcting it. Safe vaping - don’t exceed the CDR of your battery, it matters.
Before you go correcting anything, I suggest you go look into how regulated mods actually work. Point is...even if you run your mod at its max watts, you will never exceed the CDR of your batteries. Regardless of if they are 20, 25, or 30A The mod will not allow it.
 

SkoldVape

Gold Contributor
Member For 4 Years
Before you go correcting anything, I suggest you go look into how regulated mods actually work. Point is...even if you run your mod at its max watts, you will never exceed the CDR of your batteries. Regardless of if they are 20, 25, or 30A The mod will not allow it.
Just cos the mod won't allow it doesn't mean you should
 

David Wolf

Silver Contributor
Member For 2 Years
Member For 1 Year
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Before you go correcting anything, I suggest you go look into how regulated mods actually work. Point is...even if you run your mod at its max watts, you will never exceed the CDR of your batteries. Regardless of if they are 20, 25, or 30A The mod will not allow it.
Maybe I already know how mods work. Maybe I’m an electrical engineer. If you put an 18650 battery rated at 15A CDR in a regulated mod requiring a 30A CDR battery to run max watts, and run it near max watts, you’ve just exceeded your batteries CDR significantly and your mod has no way of knowing your batteries CDR rating. CDR matters.
 

Fudgey Finger

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Member For 2 Years
Member For 1 Year
Maybe I already know how mods work. Maybe I’m an electrical engineer. If you put an 18650 battery rated at 15A CDR in a regulated mod requiring a 30A CDR battery to run max watts, and run it near max watts, you’ve just exceeded your batteries CDR significantly and your mod has no way of knowing your batteries CDR rating. CDR matters.

Because the mod has overheat protection though, that means that thermal runaway pretty much isn't a thing in a regulated, right? So what would be the problem with exceeding the CDR of the cell?

Sent from my LGL64VL using Tapatalk
 

Carambrda

Platinum Contributor
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Member For 5 Years
The CDR has nothing to do with battery safety. Look at Mooch's MVA ratings for that... look right above where he wrote, "Click on the thumbnail of the table above to open the full-size table".
https://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/b...ngs-picking-a-safe-battery-to-vape-with.7447/
Next, zoom in on the table, and read his explanation about the MVA... it's written in the bottom left corner of this table.

That being said, here on this forum website it is seriously à la mode to keep talking out of one's ass about batteries and battery safety. Most folks here don't even understand the difference between thermal runaway and battery venting, let alone know what causes it. Everything you need to know about battery safety is written in Mooch's blog. For additional info, also be sure to google for "mooch battery", and, next, click on "Videos" (at the top of the search results page). After you've watched those multiple video interviews with Mooch a few times, come back to forum threads like this one, and see for yourself what a load of misinformation is being posted in them constantly. I promise... you'll not know whether you should laugh or cry.
 

SkoldVape

Gold Contributor
Member For 4 Years
Because the mod has overheat protection though, that means that thermal runaway pretty much isn't a thing in a regulated, right? So what would be the problem with exceeding the CDR of the cell?

Sent from my LGL64VL using Tapatalk
It's a regulated mod so to be honest no it wouldn't be a problem I am in agreement with you to be fair :)
 

SkoldVape

Gold Contributor
Member For 4 Years
The CDR has nothing to do with battery safety. Look at Mooch's MVA ratings for that... look right above where he wrote, "Click on the thumbnail of the table above to open the full-size table".
https://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/b...ngs-picking-a-safe-battery-to-vape-with.7447/
Next, zoom in on the table, and read his explanation about the MVA... it's written in the bottom left corner of this table.

That being said, here on this forum website it is seriously à la mode to keep talking out of one's ass about batteries and battery safety. Most folks here don't even understand the difference between thermal runaway and battery venting, let alone know what causes it. Everything you need to know about battery safety is written in Mooch's blog. For additional info, also be sure to google for "mooch battery", and, next, click on "Videos" (at the top of the search results page). After you've watched those multiple video interviews with Mooch a few times, come back to forum threads like this one, and see for yourself what a load of misinformation is being posted in them constantly. I promise... you'll not know whether you should laugh or cry.
Bottom line is people talk a load of bullshit without even researching stuff.
Then they wonder why their mod is dying two months later. It's user error and they still slate vape companies.
Wismec is a good example, I've had an rx300 since it came out but yet people say wismec suck my mods died.
 

SkoldVape

Gold Contributor
Member For 4 Years
Maybe I already know how mods work. Maybe I’m an electrical engineer. If you put an 18650 battery rated at 15A CDR in a regulated mod requiring a 30A CDR battery to run max watts, and run it near max watts, you’ve just exceeded your batteries CDR significantly and your mod has no way of knowing your batteries CDR rating. CDR matters.
The mod doesn't let you pull too many amps out of a battery and it wouldn't let you exceed anything. It's not an exploding mech
 

David Wolf

Silver Contributor
Member For 2 Years
Member For 1 Year
ECF Refugee
Because the mod has overheat protection though, that means that thermal runaway pretty much isn't a thing in a regulated, right? So what would be the problem with exceeding the CDR of the cell?

Sent from my LGL64VL using Tapatalk
Good question. Some of the regulated mods I'm familiar with have thermal protection for the internal circuitry, but not for the battery itself - that would require a temperature sensor in contact with the battery - if anyone knows of such a mod I would like to know of it, i think that would be a great design feature. Exceeding the CDR doesn't automatically result in venting or a catastrophic failure due to the ability to go higher for short duration (pulse ratings), however I always recommend staying below the CDR to provide a safety margin, devices fail, and manufacturers aren't perfect, including battery manufacturers and its possible to get a battery off spec. This is a nice article on mod and battery safety:
http://vaping360.com/are-regulated-mods-as-safe-as-we-think/
 

David Wolf

Silver Contributor
Member For 2 Years
Member For 1 Year
ECF Refugee
The CDR has nothing to do with battery safety. Look at Mooch's MVA ratings for that... look right above where he wrote, "Click on the thumbnail of the table above to open the full-size table".
https://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/b...ngs-picking-a-safe-battery-to-vape-with.7447/
Next, zoom in on the table, and read his explanation about the MVA... it's written in the bottom left corner of this table.

That being said, here on this forum website it is seriously à la mode to keep talking out of one's ass about batteries and battery safety. Most folks here don't even understand the difference between thermal runaway and battery venting, let alone know what causes it. Everything you need to know about battery safety is written in Mooch's blog. For additional info, also be sure to google for "mooch battery", and, next, click on "Videos" (at the top of the search results page). After you've watched those multiple video interviews with Mooch a few times, come back to forum threads like this one, and see for yourself what a load of misinformation is being posted in them constantly. I promise... you'll not know whether you should laugh or cry.
That's an excellent link Carambrda, I rely a lot on Mooches battery ratings- his testing tables are invaluable, and its important to read his notes and caveats. I've also reviewed quite a number of battery manufacturers data sheets to see their specs and testing protocols. Mooch's "Max Vaping Amps" are his values based on his testing. If battery manufacturers were conservative and honest, the CDR on the battery label would always be at or below Mooches MVA rating. I agree that if Mooches ratings for MVA are LOWER than a given batteries CDR, we should relay on Mooches MVA rating. Being a conservative engineer, I don't recommend going ABOVE the CDR rating if Mooches MVA tested value is higher, for the reason that mooch tests a certain number of cells, but that doesn't provide assurance that evey battery that comes off of the manufacturing line will meet his MVA rating. Reputable manufacturers that post accurate ratings do so for a reason - to provide a margin of safety that takes into account manufacturing tolerances, quality control, materials control, etc. We may differ on this point, but I've done failure modes and effects evaluations for failures in my industry and know that the higher you push something to its limits, the higher the risk of a failure,
You're a smart guy and you get to disagree, but I am responsible for the recommendations I give, and if I give a recommendation that is too conservative I'm good with that for I always want to err on the side of safety.
 

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