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KingPin!

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Hi Folks,

10 Points for guessing which one below is the Profile V1.5?...

RQPn6DO.jpg


I ask this because in my mind there are 5 categories a version update falls into;

  1. “We liked the name, but the previous version was a bit poo so we attempted to change it”
  2. “We wanted to make it again but better, we addressed peoples feedback and did just that”
  3. Jerry McGuire style “show me the moneeey” – a new lick of paint, single or dual coil variant, new logo, new dress
  4. “Our previous version was popular; people know what it is now. We decided to change it by incorporating other ideas we benched previously”
  5. “Don’t worry, we didn’t forgot about you …(insert the opposite) <mouth to lung> or <Direct to Lung> vapers, we got you fam!”
When I use a product update, I like to see a company improve it or go in a different direction. This shows to me a company a. listens, b. cares, c. wants to progress and d. isn’t afraid to take risks.

With the above in mind, Wotofo kindly sent me the Profile V1.5 RDA for review. In honour bound tradition; I don’t like to make recommendations in my reviews, instead I present you with my findings to help bolster your research should you be interested in the product.

….Back to my intro question… if you guessed the one on the right, you’d be correct!

iIjnlGg.jpg

Vr9oele.jpg


Profile V1 RDA Specification
  • Height : 21.8mm
  • Diameter : 24mm
  • Deck Diameter : 20mm
  • Mesh size : 16 x6.8mm
  • Squonk Pin Bore : 0.9mm
  • Thread Length : 5.16mm
  • Holes : 19 (0.8mm) each side
  • Drip Tip : W : 16.5mm, H : 6mm, Bore 8.5 > 10mm
V1 Product Page : https://www.wotofo.com/products/wotofo-profile-rda


Profile V1.5 RDA Specification
  • Height : 21mm
  • Diameter : 24mm
  • Deck Diameter : 22.5mm
  • Mesh size : 17 x 8.5mm
  • Squonk Pin Bore : 0.5mm
  • Thread Length : 4.85mm
  • Holes : 10 (1.2mm) each side
  • Drip Tip : W : 18mm, H : 7mm, Bore 8 > 10mm
V1.5 Product Page: https://www.wotofo.com/pages/profile-1-5-rda
 
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KingPin!

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Impressions, Build Quality & Assembly

I’m going to compare the V1 and V1.5 throughout this review, as such all my pictures will have the V1 on the left and the V1.5 on the right…I’ll go through the differences, then you can decide which category it belongs in at the end. Let’s see if we agree shall we?

Can the V1.5’s internals fit into the V1?

Excusing general things like O-rings, the drip tip & post screws, they are completely incompatible, not even the squonk pin can be switched between them.

QkozDjU.jpg


Could Wotofo have simply sold this as an upgrade pack instead though?

Personally I think they could have. I say this because the deck is drilled almost identically inside, except they changed the shape of the post base slightly.

You can actually fit the 1.5 posts inside the original if you want. The thing is you won’t be able to undo the post screw due to the high lip on the V1 deck, and that’s going to be a show stopper unless you’re handy with a dremmel and really like using the V1 that much!?

fXV55xL.jpg


Ok there is an argument that the bigger mesh requires a larger deck for juice reasons, but most of the time you are feeding the wick directly so I’m not necessarily sold on that.

It’s a bigger beck – yet they have the same diameter top cap?

You no doubt noticed in my opening the caps are virtually identical in “profile”, yet the original V1’ deck fits entirely inside the V1.5’s…yep this time they are going for “Bigga is betta…get in ma belly!”

9DTONwv.jpg


You pay a price though…it’s that old “trade-off”…A bigger strip of mesh in the 1.5 with the promise of more of everything, but you pay the vape gods in the heat exchange department….bacon lips time anyone?

3Ag7zKx.jpg


It’s probably why they went with a taller drip tip as stock. It’s worth keeping the stock tip instead of the low profile option they sent with it because the 1.5 gets noticeably hotter than its predecessor.

You mentioned they are incompatible, can you expand please?

The V1.5 has been modified entirely under the hood to make use of the extra deck space and with it bigger strips of mesh.

1. The spring got an upgrade (it’s now wider and thicker – that’s, what she said). It’s definitely welcome, as I always thought the original was a little too thin. If you notice next to the V1 spring, I pimped my ride and made my own “heavier duty spring” by wrapping 24g round a 3mm bit; it took all of about 5 minutes to sort. My point is this is something you can address yourself at home.

0cBVvF6.jpg


2. The ceramic plate the cotton rests on is now wider, meaning it goes from say “a finger” pushing up under the cotton to “a fist”, which equals more surface area contact. Also considering how much damn cotton it takes to wick these RDA’s it makes the wicking experience easier.

tGOcK7a.jpg


3. The adjustable squonk pin got a downgrade if you ask me. I say this because we see wider mesh used with the 1.5, yet the bore of the pin is smaller (0.5mm compared to 0.9mm). This doesn’t sound a lot but it also loses the two side holes (green arrow) due to how thin it is now. So the V1 is more efficient when it comes to squonking, also the pin was thicker and less likely to snap when tightened too hard.

KlxNsVt.jpg

qcazzmC.jpg


4. The posts have changed shape and width; the V1.5 posts sit lower than the original which is a subtle change. When you look at the two side by side, you’d think the V1.5 will be subject to over squonking far more readily because the holes are machined lower. It turns out the top of the mesh aligns almost identically between them.

KfSFyX1.jpg


5. I see juice wells machined into the V1.5 deck. Kind of moot point to me simply because of number 4 above, all things considered they are still the same (wick distance I mean). Also these RDA’s drink so bloody quickly I find myself re-squonking every couple of hits. Still it was necessary addition to keep everything the same.

JDbK0NZ.jpg



6. Tops caps have changed, in as much as shape (with a thinner chamber cap you get more room to have a thicker top cap, and with it incorporate a proper dome). Also the way the airflow control works is slightly different you can control top and bottom or both this time around.

WCrzr5L.jpg


My Sleeve (I call it the chamber cap) and Top cap was insanely tight on the V1, has this been sorted?

Yes and No, firstly I found the chamber (getting it on and off the deck) remained as tight as a ducks asshole with the V1, probably due to large double O-rings. The top cap and adjusting airflow did loosen over time; still I think they could have put some knurling or notches to help you adjust it though.

This time it’s the opposite; the chamber is easier to get on and off but the top cap is way too tight, I’m struggling to move it, even after loading VG around the O-Ring, it most definitely needs knurling or something.

Are the Drip tips the same between them?

Yeah as far as stock one’s pretty much. If you liked the 810 on the original, you’ll get on with the next one as well. They narrowed the bore ever so slightly but you won’t notice it.

7TvNmVg.jpg


When it comes to extras though the V1 came with a nicer taller option suited to my tastes personally. The V1.5 came with a very low profile extra option, looks good I guess? but remember that top cap gets hot, so bacon lips time and all that makes the extra a little pointless really…if it ain’t broke don’t fix it comes to mind

Any problems with Quality control?

Only thing I would say is the V1.5 had a medical smell to it, probably part of their rinse cycle, so I plonked it into the ultrasonic cleaner to give it a thorough soaking before using.

I’ve had no issues with the machining finish on either so nothing to report there. Extras are plentiful to get you going with either, although you will find 3 different mesh options to try with the 1.5. I like this idea out of the box; it means you can settle on what you like instead of trial and error later on.

Post screws were the same as well, I found them to be pretty deep cut but its worth using a decent screwdriver as you will slip if you wrench down hard stripping the heads prematurely.

Both are hybrid safe, threads lengths are broadly similar with the V1.5 being ever so slightly shorter at 4.85mm

FNPSDdp.jpg
 
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KingPin!

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Coil Building and Wicking

These RDA’s are designed first and foremost with mesh in mind. I have tried round wire builds but ultimately feel there are better RDA’s out there to do that job, so won’t cover that.

I find both to be easy to build and wick, and due to the plug and play nature there really isnt much to cover in this section.

I approach them in exactly the same way. Bear in mind I’m using 316L 200 grain mesh in this guide, cut to size against the nexMesh templates.

1. Bend your mesh around the thick end of the tool provided in the box to give it a C curve

2. Mount the Mesh in the posts, adjust as you go to make sure it sits straight both sides with no twisting. You’ll notice I haven’t dry burned the mesh in this guide… oops forgot. It didn’t really make any different as there won’t be any hot spots and the mesh was clean anyway (up to you)

3. Undo one side like so (do not touch it until it’s cooled if you dry burned!)

zV1Z2E8.jpg


4. Take out the cotton wad (6mm bad boys) and lay in centrally (your hands should be clean and dry at this point)

trQsFwa.jpg


5. With two fingers hold each end of the cotton down tight, fold the mesh over the top and tighten in place. This approach is especially useful for mesh sheets you cut because it’s a royal pain to pull that cotton through without miss-shaping the ends

l5h8UrE.jpg


6. Everything should look nice and snug

BqYqSuL.jpg


7. Take the scissors, and cut down at roughly a 45 degree angle. I start the chop with my scissors in line with the edge of the deck

LA3wdqe.jpg


8. I then snip away any cotton that sits lower than the bottom O-ring.

1yqa9F2.jpg


9. After that’s done you should have this rough shape….

h6WnjLS.jpg


10. Feed the cotton in from the back. You are aiming to get the bottom tip in the well. You should be able to get most of the cotton in assuming you followed the above. It’s ok for it to be fairly snug but try not to force every little bit in, and don’t worry about anything hanging over at this point….where I’ve marked in red you can trim away

zHyo88n.jpg


11. Give it a haircut all round as mentioned above

nq8TkBK.jpg


12. You’ll end up with two neat and tidy decks ready to prime (which is worth dripping to do)…then you are all set ready to rock

xsKp2kc.jpg
 
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KingPin!

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How’s the Vape

Mesh, just like round wire types is a personal thing. I do like the fact Wotofo give you 3 different options to try with the V1.5 so that’s a thumbs up, also the nexMesh strips are hard wearing so they’ll keep you going for a while (cleaning and re-using). Having said that, if you are looking into this latest offering you’ll no doubt see there’s a lot of focus on the mesh from a marketing perspective, but remember it’s a changeable so I’m overlooking that for this bit.

My approach therefore is a little unorthodox being I should try the mesh included and tell you all about it. However being I’m comparing for you on a side by side product basis, I felt it was only fair to describe my findings based on using exactly the same set up with both – only then can I compare and contrast them properly.

In addition and this might be me, but I really struggle with Kanthal (A1 or FeCrAl) mesh due to its lack of flavour fade. By this I mean I have to be mindful to keep the wick fully saturated at all times, otherwise I’ll get the dry hit from hell in comparison to typical round wire…simply because mesh ramps up so damn fast.

UAYsUCr.jpg


I opted to go with Vandy Vape’s Stainless Steel (316L) 200 grain mesh which I use with temp control largely resolving the problem above, with the added bonus of the RDA not getting roasting hot. Sadly the A1 isn’t suitable for temp control but I have asked Wotofo before to launch their own SS variant through nexMESH.

So my testing for this review was using the same mod (Smoant Battlestar Squonker- not the most accurate TC out there, but its good enough), Same juices, same mesh in each!

Test 1 – Both Fully Open, 80W Pre-heat, 520.F

V1 – Snorkel time! ….I find the vapour production anaemic, don’t get me wrong, it’s a cloud chucker for sure but lots of air mixture diluting it, so I don’t get much in the way of a hit from it. The airflow is silky smooth and pretty quiet all things considered. When it comes to flavour I find the original profile RDA muted if I’m honest, especially compared to many flavour chaser RDA’s I’m used to. It does stay cool though (I do like that thick cap)

V1.5 – again a Snorkel….In the flavour department it edges the V1, its not leaps and bounds better but it’s noticeable. With the different airflow configuration it’s more audible on the draw which is something I noticed in all the tests. I also noticed it actually produced less “cloudage” but I get a better hit from it which I prefer. Finally whilst it remains cool it does warm up more so due to the thinner cap (even in TC mode)

Test 2 – Mid Way Settings, 65W pre-heat, 500.F

N.B: Leaving 9 (of the 13 available) holes open on the bottom two rows with the V1, offers the same draw restriction as opening the bottom line on the 1.5

V1 - This setting for me is the sweet spot for the original RDA, it’s not too lose or restricted and because of the lower air mixture I get a better hit from it, as well as plenty of vapour production. Not only that the flavour performance is decent and moisture on the tongue is excellent making it a solid all-rounder for mesh.

V1.5 – Very similar outcome to the above “a solid all-rounder”, I found it difficult to tell them apart at times particularly with orange profiles. With candy,lemon/lime type flavours I’d say the 1.5 marginally exceeds the V1 but to be honest id be perfectly happy vaping either.

It’s a thirsty bugger for sure, well they both are actually but this more so as you’d expect. Same thing experienced as test 1, it does warm more than the V1, but exchanges a denser hit for slightly less clouds, not as much of silky inhale and more audible on the draw.

Test 3 – Restricted, 50W pre-heat, 480.F

N.B: Leaving 6 (of the 13 available) holes open on the bottom two rows with the V1, offers the same draw restriction as opening 3.5 holes of the bottom line on the 1.5

V1 – This for me is about as restricted as I like to go on this RDA, it’s not eye popping or anything but due to the ramp up you need enough draw to keep things cool enough for extended periods of vaping, which it does successfully. It shares a lot of the same similarities to test 2 but I feel It just wants to be opened up a bit more to make it shine, which means those who like fairly restricted vapes probably won’t get on with it as much as other RDA’s on the market.

V1.5 - I’d avoid the low profile tip, even in temp control as you’ll notice it gets considerably hotter than the V1 so that’s worth noting this time around. Again it edges ahead in flavour otherwise same notes as test 2.

Final Test Notes

Both atomisers vape better with fruits and citrus flavours in my opinion, its not to say they don’t play nice with bakery but I find them lacking in that camp somewhat.

If you are the sort who really likes picking flavours apart, then I’d say mesh isn’t for you because it blends flavours together, at least that’s what I’ve found so far on any mesh I’ve tried.

What these both do well (and the 1.5 did more consistently) was in the handling of sweet and tart citric juices; they play nice with them and give a great all round vape, pulling back the extremes and making some of those overly sickly juices less so, whilst maintaining the dominant flavours like orange, lemon, lime, especially with the moistness of the vape you get. Subtle flavours like watermelon, some strawberries can get lost and you pick up the sweetness but not much else if that makes sense.


Final Conclusion

Wotofo went with trying to change things up, I mean nothing is compatible, so I can’t say they just gave it a lick of paint and did a half assed job by drilling the holes differently.

I can see they have actually worked towards improvements in the design, and in doing so have definitely made some gains.

On the flip side I think they also introduced a similar number of draw backs with the 1.5 which leaves it in a place of half improved depending on perspective… I’d go with that perhaps.

V1 – Smoother draw, is less audible, has a narrower flavour sweet spot, is easier to squonk, it’s a cloudy but thin vape, moist, stays cooler

V1.5 – A better hit, draw is less silky and it’s very slightly noisier, has a wider flavour sweet spot, gets warmer though, is harder to squonk, easier to wick

TIQFDVA.jpg


V1 Pro’s
  • Easy to build on
  • Decent spares
  • Easy enough to wick
  • Plenty of airflow configurations (suits mid-range best)
  • Clouds a plenty
  • Very smooth draw & quiet
  • Thick top cap – stays pretty cool
  • Well rounded vape – on the mid setting
  • Wide bore squonk pin
  • Hybrid safe
  • Instant ramp up
  • Forgiving when squonking
  • Consistent wick press design – great idea
V1 Con’s
  • The chamber cap is stiff to get on and off the base
  • Spring is a little too soft (can fix that yourself though)
  • Thirsty – keep it well saturated always
  • Could do with some knurling around top cap (it does break in)
  • [personal] not a fan of the branding
  • A little thin on the hit side at times
  • Underwhelming flavour at restricted and wide open settings


V1.5 Pro’s
  • Easy to build on
  • 3 Options of Mesh & Decent spares
  • Easier to wick than the V1
  • Plenty of airflow configurations
  • Get a nice hit from this one
  • Decent vapour production
  • Smooth draw & pretty quiet
  • Well rounded vape – across the spectrum
  • Hybrid safe
  • Instant ramp up
  • Forgiving when squonking
  • Consistent wick press design – great idea and a better spring this time
  • The Chamber cap is easy to get on and off the base

V1.5 Con’s
  • Thin top cap – it warms up quickly
  • The squonk pin is narrower and you have more wicking….what?
  • Juice under the base – pet peeve of mine
  • The top cap needs knurling – “I cannit budge it captain”
  • [personal] saw the font change - still dislike the branding
  • Very Thirsty – keep it well saturated always
  • [personal] Nice to have a spare drip tip – but the low profile one is not suited to this RDA

Let’s be honest the V1 was a massive success for Wotofo &MrJustRight1, it’s a difficult act to follow and my expectations are such that they have to follow on strongly, I'd describe the 1.5 as a stepping stone rather than a true upgrade in this regard (possibly why its marked as 1.5 and not 2?.

Given the choice as to what I’d reach for of the two; I’d give it to the 1.5 personally. When they come out with the V2 (which I’m sure they will), I’d very much like to see a bridge between the two, pick out the good bits dump the others bits, address the re-occurring cons and as far as mesh goes it would be bang on.

Thank you for reading my review. I hope you find the information useful, until next time KingPin!
 

lordmage

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well with this review i can safely say i dont need a 1.5 ... now if they did an RTA unity 1.5 maybe...

Edit... fixed that double post :D
 

Rooster Cogburn

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Very nice review, on a side note, I never liked the weak spring in my profile although I’ve never had any problems either. That said I’m gonna try making myself a spring with some SS wire. Is yours stainless or is there a metal you think is more springy? I probably shouldn’t, it ain’t broke so why try to fix it and all but I have a few so if I somehow catastrophically screw up I have backups. Besides I want to compare a functional spring versus what I have now, a purposeless coil of metal beneath a ceramic block.
 

KingPin!

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Very nice review, on a side note, I never liked the weak spring in my profile although I’ve never had any problems either. That said I’m gonna try making myself a spring with some SS wire. Is yours stainless or is there a metal you think is more springy? I probably shouldn’t, it ain’t broke so why try to fix it and all but I have a few so if I somehow catastrophically screw up I have backups. Besides I want to compare a functional spring versus what I have now, a purposeless coil of metal beneath a ceramic block.

I used closest to hand in my wire box - kanthal ...at that sort of gauge don’t see many builders carry SS because the resistance is so low using it, but ss could well be a little more springy yeah

I’d also say give 26g a go, and try adding one more wrap than I did too :)
 

bobnat

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Very nice review, on a side note, I never liked the weak spring in my profile although I’ve never had any problems either. That said I’m gonna try making myself a spring with some SS wire. Is yours stainless or is there a metal you think is more springy? I probably shouldn’t, it ain’t broke so why try to fix it and all but I have a few so if I somehow catastrophically screw up I have backups. Besides I want to compare a functional spring versus what I have now, a purposeless coil of metal beneath a ceramic block.

I took a spring from a ballpoint pen, cut it down, and it works great.
 

KingPin!

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well with this review i can safely say i dont need a 1.5 ... now if they did an RTA unity 1.5 maybe...

Edit... fixed that double post :D

thanks for the post fix - out of the two I do prefer the 1.5 for my style of vaping overall, like both tbh though happy vaping either, especially at mid point airflow settings which is where I vape on these day to day

Best to see what other hands on users think as well as always :)
 

Rooster Cogburn

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I used closest to hand in my wire box - kanthal ...at that sort of gauge don’t see many builders carry SS because the resistance is so low using it, but ss could well be a little more springy yeah

I’d also say give 26g a go, and try adding one more wrap than I did too :)
I have 22-24-26&28 gauge stainless, I bought a spool pack with spools of all of those gauges so I may see what 22 is like, even though I think either 24 or 26 may be better. I have more wire than I could ever use so I’ll just make some and see how they feel.
 

KingPin!

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I have 22-24-26&28 gauge stainless, I bought a spool pack with spools of all of those gauges so I may see what 22 is like, even though I think either 24 or 26 may be better. I have more wire than I could ever use so I’ll just make some and see how they feel.

Sweet, let us know what you think is best :cheers:
 

Rooster Cogburn

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Sweet, let us know what you think is best :cheers:
Will do, should I stick with 3mm i.d.? Is that a requirement for proper fit or will a 3.5mm-4mm fit? I’ll try out some springs in a few days when I have some free time and I’ll be sure to report back my findings.
 

KingPin!

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Will do, should I stick with 3mm i.d.? Is that a requirement for proper fit or will a 3.5mm-4mm fit? I’ll try out some springs in a few days when I have some free time and I’ll be sure to report back my findings.


3mm is needed for 24 gauge I found.

3.5mm might be ok for 26g ...try that first I reckon and tighten after if needed, that’s what I did on the 24 first time out

if you go 22g hmm try 3mm ID because it won’t fit around the pin otherwise, problem is though I think you’ll struggle to get it inside the ceramic plate as 24g is a squeeze :)
 

Rooster Cogburn

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Top one: is 26 gauge| Middle: is the O.G. Coil | Bottom is the 22 gauge
AD5AC8D3-A6C8-4929-A754-3F8286AD7372.jpeg E4EF3657-089F-4C06-8D17-A2608E00A066.jpeg
I cut that down but it’s what I ended up using. The 22 was too much, the O.G. spring was basically useless, and the 26 gauge was just right. @KingPin! was dead one with his recommendations for gauge and wraps. Seems to work fine, little more tension to keep my rayon in contact with the mesh. Like I said I had no problems with it originally but I think what this does is offers a wider range of wicking that will work. It makes it easier to build, basically impossible to screw it up this way which is nice because anyone whose gotten a dry mesh hit knows it’s unpleasant, very; very unpleasant.
 

bobnat

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Top one: is 26 gauge| Middle: is the O.G. Coil | Bottom is the 22 gauge
View attachment 151367 View attachment 151366
I cut that down but it’s what I ended up using. The 22 was too much, the O.G. spring was basically useless, and the 26 gauge was just right. @KingPin! was dead one with his recommendations for gauge and wraps. Seems to work fine, little more tension to keep my rayon in contact with the mesh. Like I said I had no problems with it originally but I think what this does is offers a wider range of wicking that will work. It makes it easier to build, basically impossible to screw it up this way which is nice because anyone whose gotten a dry mesh hit knows it’s unpleasant, very; very unpleasant.

I'm going to give that a try. Might as well do something with all the wire I have.
 

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