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Subtank Mini Ohm's jumping

jfdibutton

Member For 4 Years
One of my Sutbtank Mini's developed a major issue. I have ensured that the center pin is fully against the bottom of the coil head/RBA section. I took the coil out and screwed just the base down flush on one of my Provari 2.5's (fixed pin) this forced the center pin WAY up in there. Then took it off and put the head back in which pushed the pin back out (won't sit flush on Provari). No matter which RBA (I have 3) or replacement coil head I put on it the ohm's will majorly jump all over the place each time it is fired. A 0.5 ohm coil reading anywhere from .75 up to an excess of 5 ohms!!!! Talk about a dry, hot, make you wanna wish you were dead hit when a Sig 150 throws the voltage to fire a 5 ohm coil through a 0.5 ohm coil with the medium sized air flow holes.

Has anyone else experienced this? Any ideas or suggestions? Maybe this is the reason they sell replacement bases, not stripped 510 threading like I assumed. Not really thrilled with the idea of spending $7-8 for a new base, and of course my preferred vendors don't care the spare bases. The sites I have found them on all have higher prices on other items, makes it hard to justify buying other stuff to get to the free shipping mark.
 

OBDave

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I've only had this problem with RDAs not making proper contact with the center pin on my Sig 100 (the old one with the reverse-threaded adjustable pin) - no fun for sure, but I haven't replicated the issue on my Subtank Mini that only sees use on an iStick and Kbox...bumping in hopes someone else will chime in...
 

BoomStick

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On the rba head the positive pin usually doesn't come fully tightened. Stick something through the air inlet holes and screw it down tight. It threads into the positive block on the build deck and if it's not tight the resistance will be unstable. Just one thing to check. Might not be the only issue.
 

Teresa P

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On the rba head the positive pin usually doesn't come fully tightened. Stick something through the air inlet holes and screw it down tight. It threads into the positive block on the build deck and if it's not tight the resistance will be unstable. Just one thing to check. Might not be the only issue.
I'm having the same issue with my original sub tank. I do have a question - the pin on my sub tank plus is flat on the contact end. The one on the original is spring loaded with the protruding pin in the center. Does that make a difference? I ordered a new pin, thinking there's something wrong with the old one to make the ohms jump about. If the insulator is bad, can that be replaced?
 

jfdibutton

Member For 4 Years
I have tried multiple rba heads and also disposable heads in that particular base, ALL of them do it. Every single press of the fire button causes the ohm's to go up or down!! And every one of the heads work great in any of my other bases. So I know it is the base/pin. Thanks for all the suggestions, even though I have tried all of them nothing has worked. I might try swapping the center pin out with another base just for shits and giggles as I have a new base ordered. It will still be interesting to see if it is the base itself or the pin.

Sorry for the delay in response, I am the OP and didn't get any alerts on this thread, strange!

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jfdibutton

Member For 4 Years
I've only had this problem with RDAs not making proper contact with the center pin on my Sig 100 (the old one with the reverse-threaded adjustable pin) - no fun for sure, but I haven't replicated the issue on my Subtank Mini that only sees use on an iStick and Kbox...bumping in hopes someone else will chime in...
I have swapped amongst my three tanks and devices the same tank does it on all three devices the other two tanks work fine on all of them. Thanks for the suggestion though!
 

jfdibutton

Member For 4 Years
The center pin insulator has a voltage leak. So cheap it's throw away. Sad but true.
Wouldn't voltage leak occur from day one if it was a bad center pin? I don't think the conductivity of metal changes over time, but I may not be thinking of something. I have had this tank for almost 2 months without issue and all of a sudden this started occurring.
 

jfdibutton

Member For 4 Years
On the rba head the positive pin usually doesn't come fully tightened. Stick something through the air inlet holes and screw it down tight. It threads into the positive block on the build deck and if it's not tight the resistance will be unstable. Just one thing to check. Might not be the only issue.
Yeah, I had read this trick and tried it first as I figured that was the most likely problem. All three of my rba head are as tight as I dare go without stripping them. Thank you for the suggestion!
 

jfdibutton

Member For 4 Years
I'm having the same issue with my original sub tank. I do have a question - the pin on my sub tank plus is flat on the contact end. The one on the original is spring loaded with the protruding pin in the center. Does that make a difference? I ordered a new pin, thinking there's something wrong with the old one to make the ohms jump about. If the insulator is bad, can that be replaced?
Where did you find just the pin to order? It would be awesome if that ends up being the problem and I can get a pin cheaply to keep a few on hand for quick repairs and to put in this base as a backup since I ordered another base.

I am pretty sure the insulator isn't bad (at least on mine, you don't mention if your resistance is going up or down from the measured resistance) mine always goes higher and if the insulator was bad it should go lower or throw a short if I am thinking correctly
 

Teresa P

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Where did you find just the pin to order? It would be awesome if that ends up being the problem and I can get a pin cheaply to keep a few on hand for quick repairs and to put in this base as a backup since I ordered another base.

I am pretty sure the insulator isn't bad (at least on mine, you don't mention if your resistance is going up or down from the measured resistance) mine always goes higher and if the insulator was bad it should go lower or throw a short if I am thinking correctly
KangerTechUS.com....the pin is only 99 cents, but nearly $4 to ship. If it will fix my tank, I don't care! Lol!
 

jfdibutton

Member For 4 Years
KangerTechUS.com....the pin is only 99 cents, but nearly $4 to ship. If it will fix my tank, I don't care! Lol!
Yeah, the base was like $6 from fasttech, but the "bell" full tank was only $9 with the newer version of the rba so I ordered that to steal the head/base off of if it works. If not I will probably use it as a cheap-o PIF item for someone. But I hear ya on the as long as it fixes the tank, still way cheaper than buying another tank. Too bad you already ordered one of us could have gotten multiples and mailed them to the other for the cost of a stamp, lol. Let us know if it fixes the issue.
 

Teresa P

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And it always reads higher. I thought it was my ohm meter, every coil I made was reading anywhere from 2.4 to sometimes 5 ohms, and I was doing nothing differently. So I took a stock coil out of a pack I'd bought and it of course read .5 on the meter. But on the tank, my Sigelei started reading it at .5 and every time I took a hit it would read higher and higher and eventually quit firing at all with a "Check Atomizer" warning. At that point if I put it back on the meter it was reading 2.4 and up.
 

UncleRJ

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Wouldn't voltage leak occur from day one if it was a bad center pin? I don't think the conductivity of metal changes over time, but I may not be thinking of something. I have had this tank for almost 2 months without issue and all of a sudden this started occurring.

No, the contuctivity never, ever changes.

However, the constant heating and cooling and heating and cooling and heating and...........................

Over time can change the fit/tolerance as stuff "Moves Around".
 

Saddletramp1200

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Fast Tech as parts for every Atomizer ever been sold there if you look hard enough. Pins, Insulators, screws, ect. Except for my 28.5 Svoemesto tank. At least my luck is constant. :cool:
 

Teresa P

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Yeah, the base was like $6 from fasttech, but the "bell" full tank was only $9 with the newer version of the rba so I ordered that to steal the head/base off of if it works. If not I will probably use it as a cheap-o PIF item for someone. But I hear ya on the as long as it fixes the tank, still way cheaper than buying another tank. Too bad you already ordered one of us could have gotten multiples and mailed them to the other for the cost of a stamp, lol. Let us know if it fixes the issue.
And the new pin did not fix the problem. :( ....The reading on my ohm meter runs from 2.25 on up to 3.5 and back and forth. On the Sigelei, I get the "Check Atomizer" display. Used a .5 stock coil straight from the pack that reads ".5" on my other RBA base. Surely all this trouble isn't the insulator...or is it?
 

Saddletramp1200

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And the new pin did not fix the problem. :( ....The reading on my ohm meter runs from 2.25 on up to 3.5 and back and forth. On the Sigelei, I get the "Check Atomizer" display. Used a .5 stock coil straight from the pack that reads ".5" on my other RBA base. Surely all this trouble isn't the insulator...or is it?
It's time to understand that one should go to a good home. Had a Maraxus Mod. Beautiful thing. Never worked. Our 105 ton press made it smaller. Move on, it's time.
 
Did u ever find the fix for this? From what I have read it's the base. I'm having the exact same problem and I have seen people take apart the afc base and clean it. Put it back together then it works no more ohm jumping something about the glue in the base... I'm not sure as I can't seem to take apart my afc base and I'm pissed because my ohms are jumping all over.....
 

jfdibutton

Member For 4 Years
Yeah, it ended up being the base. Two pairs of channel lock pliers should get it apart. I gave up and fixed mine by throwing it away and getting a new base.

Sent from my GT-N8010 using Tapatalk
 
Yeah, it ended up being the base. Two pairs of channel lock pliers should get it apart. I gave up and fixed mine by throwing it away and getting a new base.

Sent from my GT-N8010 using Tapatalk
I was at work today messing around with it and I was finally able to take the base apart.... ended up losing the ball bearing, finding it then losing it again lol but got it cleaned out really good the ring spins freely but it stays in the same place u set it so no big deal..... took me a few tries to get my rba section working again because the bottom positive part is a little shorter than the occ coils so I had to tighten the base more to get it to touch the pin but once I got it all back together no more jumping ohms lol..... I did actually order another base two weeks ago from fasttech but it's not here yet and I needed a tank that worked as dripping and driving is a bit hazardous and a pain in rear end lol thanks for responding!
 

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