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Am I vaping Safe? (Watts/Volts/Ohms Readings)

AndyRose

AndyRose

Hey guys!

I'm still fairly new to the vaping world. Although im quite eductated on basics, s
uch as juices, RDA's, mod types, etc. the advanced things are still confusing. However, that's not why I'm here.

My best friend gave me his IPV Mini II box mod and another friend just gave me a Mad Hatter RDA with two coils already built, all i had to do was wick it.

Im not sure what kind of battery i just bought (intentionally for another mod i have, but i was told it's safe to use with this mod as well) its brown with some numbers/letters printed on it. but with this Mad Hatter, my watts are set at 70. My voltage stays around 5.9v and my Ohms stay around 0.5.

When my best friend gave me this vape, he contsantly stated that i dont need to exceed 5 volts on this mod. Idk if it was the battery he originally gave me (wich was a different battery then what i have now, i purchased it because apparenlty Efest isnt a good battery.) and i was just wondering if it was safe to continue vaping or if i need to do something to lower my readings. Any help would be greatly appreciated. The numbers/letters on the battery will be typed below. Thanks in advance!

Battery Numbers/Letters (As shown on Battery):
LGDBHG21865
0246I032AB

-Happy Vaping!

"Get a Vape, ...

...Hotbox the world!"
 
O

OBDave

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Ok, an LG HG2 battery (the brown ones) should be able to handle 20 amp, within your limit at 70 watts and 0.5 ohm. Google steam engine for more on safety, though I'm sure others will chime in shortly... Welcome!

fat fingered flubs courtesy dumb mobile phone
 
L

Lefty

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The 70W version of this chip has a maximum input current of 30 amps. With a chip the draw on the battery is governed by the wattage setting and the available voltage from the battery, not by the resistance of the coil. With the HG2 you will get an over all longer battery life by either turning it down some to say 60W or by swapping batteries or putting it on the charger before the battery level gets low enough for the mod to tell you to. This is likely why your buddy stayed below 5V. As the battery level drops the chip makes higher amp draws on the battery to supply the wattage you have it set for. If you want to run it at 70W until it tells you to either replace or charge the battery you would be better served with a 30 amp battery.
 
iiKryptic-old

iiKryptic-old

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^^^^This, with a regulated mod you have alot more forgiveness because the chip does the thinking for you. Do not let this be an excuse not to learn Ohms law though. If you move on to an unregulated device that knowledge is irreplaceable as far as safety is concerned.
 
Angrygod50

Angrygod50

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You can get more cohesive answers if you only post in one place not two.
 
CloudEater

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I just did the calculations, if your battery is rated for 20A you're fine.

Ohms law states Current (A) = Voltage / Resistance
5.9v / 0.5 ohms = 11.8 Amps

Well within your limits.
 
Slurp812

Slurp812

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CloudEater said:
I just did the calculations, if your battery is rated for 20A you're fine.

Ohms law states Current (A) = Voltage / Resistance
5.9v / 0.5 ohms = 11.8 Amps

Well within your limits.
Click to expand...

That is NOT battery current. @ 70 watts, you are near the 20 amp limit on the BATTERY side of the equation. You must draw additional current from the battery to be able to output 5.9 volts from a battery that is likely ~3.8 volts under load when fully charged. We must work ohms law backwards. 70 watts, PLUS any losses from being regulated, and we will have ~75 watts from the battery. Using my best case example of 3.8 volts, we divide. This comes out to 19.7 amps. The 11.8 amps is what the coil sees.
 
conanthewarrior

conanthewarrior

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Slurp812 said:
That is NOT battery current. @ 70 watts, you are near the 20 amp limit on the BATTERY side of the equation. You must draw additional current from the battery to be able to output 5.9 volts from a battery that is likely ~3.8 volts under load when fully charged. We must work ohms law backwards. 70 watts, PLUS any losses from being regulated, and we will have ~75 watts from the battery. Using my best case example of 3.8 volts, we divide. This comes out to 19.7 amps. The 11.8 amps is what the coil sees.
Click to expand...
This is correct.

On a regulated device, you calculate your amps from your wattage-resistance doesn't factor in-apart from if you want to hit maximum wattage on some devices, then there is a band you build within that allows the device to hit maximum power.

a 0.2 or a 2 Ohm coil will pull the same amps at the same wattage on a regulated mod.

I find it easiest to calculate using battery voltage pre-board.

I use nominal voltage most of the time, but also cut off-as in a regulated mod, as actual battery voltage falls, more amps are drawn to maintain the watts you have set.

You are vaping at 70W. Divide this by voltage PRE board, not what is displayed on screen after bucking or boosting.

So, 70/3.7=18.91A. Then factor in chip efficiency. I find a good percentage to use if unsure is 90%. So take that calculation, and divide by 0.9.

This leaves you with 21.02A, which is slightly over the batteries constant discharge rating.

At nearer cut off voltage, at 3.4V, you are drawing around 22.87A at 70W.

This is exceeding the batteries CDR. Now, it is unlikely anything will happen, but I can't really suggest doing this all the time, just due to it exceeding what the battery is capable of (At least what the manufacturer says is it's safe working load).

The LG HG2 is a good battery, although it does have a lot of sag, especially in a single cell setup. With this factored in, you will be pulling even more amps from the battery.

I suggest either lowering your wattage a tad, or if you want to vape at these levels, a dual 18650 device, as with higher voltage, amp load is much, much lower at the same watts.
 
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