battery help

I just bought a nemesis clone and a Kay fun plus today and was wondering which battery I should use for most performance. I have 2 Panasonic ncr18650b and also have 1 ultra fire icr18650. Does it matter. What's the diff between ICR and imr? Thanks for any help

DO NOT USE ICR, OR ANYTHING WITH FIRE IN THE NAME. I will have to search on those panasonics but PLEASE don't use those ultrafires. IMR is safer chemistry unprotected... What you need. ICR are protected, not as safe, lower amps, and will explode in a failure.

A quick google search seems to suggest those Panasonics to be unprotected ICR. Wait for someone else to chime in, I'm shocked nobody has already, but I would not suggest using them. Get some sony vtc series, vtc4 is probably the best you'll find. I have two brand new LG HE2's on my charger ATM, and am eager to try them.

Please don't use those batteries yet, and definitely not the ICR Ultrafires.

The Panasonics will be fine unless you are sub ohming and with a Kayfun that's unlikely. You will however need a fuse for them. The Smok fuse is resettable and good for 5 amps. 1 ohm at 4.2 volts is 4.2 amps so within the limits. The battery is good for 6.8 amps and 12 burst. You may find one for less or for a better shipping rate but Madvapes has them. http://www.madvapes.com/the-fuse.html
I'd definitely pass on the Ultrafire.
IMR's use manganese instead of cobalt and are more stable and less prone to exploding than an ICR though any of them will vent gasses if dead shorted. The mAh rating on ICR's tend to be higher than IMR. If you plan to move at some point to a dual coil atty with resistance readings below .9 ohms then an IMR with an 20 amp or better continuous discharge rate would be your best bet.
Until you become proficient at coil building and versed in safety a fuse would be a good idea regardless of your battery.

Lefty said:

The Panasonics will be fine unless you are sub ohming and with a Kayfun that's unlikely. You will however need a fuse for them. The Smok fuse is resettable and good for 5 amps. 1 ohm at 4.2 volts is 4.2 amps so within the limits. The battery is good for 6.8 amps and 12 burst. You may find one for less or for a better shipping rate but Madvapes has them. http://www.madvapes.com/the-fuse.html
I'd definitely pass on the Ultrafire.
IMR's use manganese instead of cobalt and are more stable and less prone to exploding than an ICR though any of them will vent gasses if dead shorted. The mAh rating on ICR's tend to be higher than IMR. If you plan to move at some point to a dual coil atty with resistance readings below .9 ohms then an IMR with an 20 amp or better continuous discharge rate would be your best bet.
Until you become proficient at coil building and versed in safety a fuse would be a good idea regardless of your battery.

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Good advice and thanks for adding to this. I would personally not even use the Panasonics, and I pretty much vape only kayfuns at about 1.2 ohms. Just me, I guess. Plenty of good batteries can be had for cheap, why not just get quality IMR's.

Idk how much he has to spend. The Panny's are perfectly safe and adequate when fused. IMR's are not the same as protected. They WILL vent if shorted long enough. A fuse with any unprotected battery is a good idea.

Lefty said:

Idk how much he has to spend. The Panny's are perfectly safe and adequate when fused. IMR's are not the same as protected. They WILL vent if shorted long enough. A fuse with any unprotected battery is a good idea.

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I am aware that IMR batteries are unprotected, and safer chemistry. Thus as you mentioned, if shorted long enough, or pushed beyond their limits they will vent, whereas an ICR can explode. I've never had this experience myself, but all I know is that I've always been informed to use unprotected IMR batteries in mechs. A fuse can't hurt, especially if you're building a typical kayfun build, it can only help. As far as cost, I got my newest batteries, the LG HE2's for 16.98 shipped for the pair.

Just my opinion, I know a fuse can and will help with any battery if you're not building past the fuses limits, but I wouldn't use those Panasonics. Better than the ultrafires, though. I buy quality batteries that far exceed my needs, and never have felt the need for a fuse. I'm diligent about checking my builds redundantly, and I always fire first on a regulated device. Quality batteries are not expensive, especially relative to the disastrous potential consequences of the opposite.

The battery is the ONE thing you don't want to scrimp on

The cheap ****fire batteries will work, sure, until that "one time"

These Panny's are hardly in a class with the fires. I get you don't seem to like them. For more in depth info:
http://lygte-info.dk/review/batteries2012/Panasonic NCR18650B 3400mAh (Green) UK.html
Edit:
There is in fact no disastrous potential when fused. The battery exceeds the fuse limits.
The question as I understood it was I have these batteries which should I use not what should I buy.
The Panny's when fused are fine for the task and charged to 4.2v will be around 2900mAh.

Lefty said:

These Panny's are hardly in a class with the fires. I get you don't seem to like them. For more in depth info:
http://lygte-info.dk/review/batteries2012/Panasonic NCR18650B 3400mAh (Green) UK.html
Edit:
There is in fact no disastrous potential when fused. The battery exceeds the fuse limits.
The question as I understood it was I have these batteries which should I use not what should I buy.
The Panny's when fused are fine for the task and charged to 4.2v will be around 2900mAh.

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I hear you, and I'm not trying to argue or anything. I know he asked which of the two he should use, and IMO, though the pannys will suffice, I would want more headroom, and wouldn't use them myself. If I wouldn't use them myself, I wouldn't suggest someone else use them. That's all, I figured I'd point him in the direction of a solid option that is relatively inexpensive, as well.