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How easy or hard it's going to be to convert from parallel to serial depends on the way the box is built and the contacts are placed.
It will most likely involve soldering, gluing and copper strip cutting.
Hits like crap? What wattage are you aiming for? What resistance are you building at?
It will most likely involve soldering, gluing and copper strip cutting.
Hits like crap? What wattage are you aiming for? What resistance are you building at?
what box????
If its a wired box, it could be as simple as rerouting the wires from the battery to the switch/mos/pcb and ground. Instead of pos to pos and neg to neg, you do pos to neg to pos to neg ect to switch and ground.
Are you sure you don't just need to address whats on top of the mod. Cause I can't imagine how 150watts plus could hit like crap, where about 100 more would fix it. What does? like crap mean?
If its a wired box, it could be as simple as rerouting the wires from the battery to the switch/mos/pcb and ground. Instead of pos to pos and neg to neg, you do pos to neg to pos to neg ect to switch and ground.
Are you sure you don't just need to address whats on top of the mod. Cause I can't imagine how 150watts plus could hit like crap, where about 100 more would fix it. What does? like crap mean?
Build lower. A .12 or.13 (assuming you are using 20+amp CDR batteries) will give you a nice warm vape. Converting a triple battery mod to series will give you 12.6V. That is just plain insane and dangerous. You would need to build 3+ Ohm coils in your atty. 12.6 volts at 20 amps is a LOT of current.
How is this 12.6v insane and dangerous. Because it's an unregulated mod????? Series MECHINCAL sure that might be dangerous. But a wired mod.... dangerous depends on the wiring. There are regulated 200 watt plus mods out there that put out more than 12 volts. Done right unregulated is just as safe as regulated vaping.
To be truthful..... I ,question the sanity of anyone who NEEDS to vape at more than 40 watts. Don't hold it against them, just don't understand the need.
To be truthful..... I ,question the sanity of anyone who NEEDS to vape at more than 40 watts. Don't hold it against them, just don't understand the need.
Ok, consider this: If you have a short on your 510 connection, at 12.6v @20 amps, you now have an Direct DC arc welder that will weld the addy to the 510 connection and possibly vent the batteries, if the wiring does not melt/catch fire first.
With a regulated mod, it will simply not fire it and say atomizer short.
With a regulated mod, it will simply not fire it and say atomizer short.
Your doomsday scenario assumes a mech with stacked batteries or basic battery wired to switch and atty mod. If this wired mod included say a fuse and maybe resistor to the circuit, then you have the exact same protection as a regulated mod. If theres a short no fire.
With a triple parallel setup and using true 30A batteries you can safely push 60A and that's around 250W at 0.07 ohm (without calculating voltage drop) and there's nothing crappy about that, you must be doing something wrong or just building too high to get it to hit like crap.
If it hits like crap, I'd be considering replacing the 510, rewiring with heavier gauges, installing a better switch, and upgrading the battery sled/contacts, if you really wanna work on the mod and make it perform better. It's not a power-capability problem if it's not hitting well enough. It's probably a battery and conductivity issue. That's just voltage drop. Triple parallel gives you plenty of power through current... ...already more than 99% of people have a way to use without scorching something.
That, or just build lower (within reason) and make them more power efficient - less mass for the power they generate. Easiest way to compensate for sag. Might just be that your builds are too anemic, yanno?
12v unregulated is kind of insane, unless you have a 25mm or bigger RDA for dropping ultra-massive and intricate multi-wire builds in. Not to mention the huge risk should you have a short at that voltage. And this is coming from a guy who vapes dual series unregulated at 170w.
Lets look at the "max watts" for both. Triple-parallel gives you triple headroom, but lets leave a margin and assume 70A max (assuming switches/wiring are up to that) with 30A cells. Triple-series gives you 12v, but now you have a 30A limit.
A .06 gives you 260w at ~66A.
Going right up to 30A, a .4 gives you 360w in series.
So yes, series gives more power. The question is, can you do a build that works with that extra 100w? Do you have an atty that can handle that build? Even 260w presents some real challenges in the heat, airflow, and wicking departments.
I just don't see the benefit, unless you have a specific build in mind for it. No point in having it just to have it. Battery sag, maybe... ...but even 45A divided across 3 batteries shouldn't sag too badly. Or at least, you don't hear people complaining that it hits like shit!
As far as I know, no triple-series regulated mod (as most 200w mods are) GIVES the whole 12 volts. They take it to generate the power because that's the battery voltage, but they'll never give that much to the coil. The RX200 caps out a 9v output, so at most, they get a .4 up to 200w.
Regulated mods can also detect shorts, internal ones, even! A high-voltage short anywhere is significantly more potent. 12v will send 6 times more current down the line in the event of a short. If that doesn't immediately pop cells, I don't know what will... ...no getting lucky and catching the short right after firing. There's no denying the heightened risk-factor. Just because it's avoidable doesn't mean there isn't more inherent danger. You're just playing the same odds for higher stakes.
I don't see what the difference between wired and all-mechanical is in this situation. If anything, the wired one will just fail easier, but it won't be the voltage, it'll be the resulting current frying it.
Unless you're talking about quad-series mods I've never heard of, it's impossible for a 200w mod to give more than 12v. Even fresh batteries kick out significantly less under load and increasingly less as the charge depletes. Maybe quad para-series and a step-up converter? Quad series and buck-converter? Lipo packs? I don't know. Whatever it is would be pretty exotic.
I mean, correct me if I'm wrong. Not being contrary just for the sake of it - I'm an advocate for super high-power that's well-utilized and executed. All for 300w mods and quad para-series. I've just never heard of a regulated mod doing a true 200w+, let alone one that kicks out over 12v. Maybe some claim to. I'd be wary. You start hitting hard electrical limitations unless you're using so many batteries that you're essentially vaping on a bookend. Might as well hook it up to an AC/DC transformer and plug it into the wall.
I suppose it IS possible to get to say, 250w and maybe even higher. You either need 4 18650's (yes, 12v or 70A from 3 cells is just barely enough, but when the voltage drops under load, it isn't) or a really fat, high-current and high-voltage series/parallel lipo stack.
That, or just build lower (within reason) and make them more power efficient - less mass for the power they generate. Easiest way to compensate for sag. Might just be that your builds are too anemic, yanno?
12v unregulated is kind of insane, unless you have a 25mm or bigger RDA for dropping ultra-massive and intricate multi-wire builds in. Not to mention the huge risk should you have a short at that voltage. And this is coming from a guy who vapes dual series unregulated at 170w.
Lets look at the "max watts" for both. Triple-parallel gives you triple headroom, but lets leave a margin and assume 70A max (assuming switches/wiring are up to that) with 30A cells. Triple-series gives you 12v, but now you have a 30A limit.
A .06 gives you 260w at ~66A.
Going right up to 30A, a .4 gives you 360w in series.
So yes, series gives more power. The question is, can you do a build that works with that extra 100w? Do you have an atty that can handle that build? Even 260w presents some real challenges in the heat, airflow, and wicking departments.
I just don't see the benefit, unless you have a specific build in mind for it. No point in having it just to have it. Battery sag, maybe... ...but even 45A divided across 3 batteries shouldn't sag too badly. Or at least, you don't hear people complaining that it hits like shit!
Well, I agree that unregulated can be just as safe if you know what you're doing and you're running the right builds but...
As far as I know, no triple-series regulated mod (as most 200w mods are) GIVES the whole 12 volts. They take it to generate the power because that's the battery voltage, but they'll never give that much to the coil. The RX200 caps out a 9v output, so at most, they get a .4 up to 200w.
Regulated mods can also detect shorts, internal ones, even! A high-voltage short anywhere is significantly more potent. 12v will send 6 times more current down the line in the event of a short. If that doesn't immediately pop cells, I don't know what will... ...no getting lucky and catching the short right after firing. There's no denying the heightened risk-factor. Just because it's avoidable doesn't mean there isn't more inherent danger. You're just playing the same odds for higher stakes.
I don't see what the difference between wired and all-mechanical is in this situation. If anything, the wired one will just fail easier, but it won't be the voltage, it'll be the resulting current frying it.
Unless you're talking about quad-series mods I've never heard of, it's impossible for a 200w mod to give more than 12v. Even fresh batteries kick out significantly less under load and increasingly less as the charge depletes. Maybe quad para-series and a step-up converter? Quad series and buck-converter? Lipo packs? I don't know. Whatever it is would be pretty exotic.
I mean, correct me if I'm wrong. Not being contrary just for the sake of it - I'm an advocate for super high-power that's well-utilized and executed. All for 300w mods and quad para-series. I've just never heard of a regulated mod doing a true 200w+, let alone one that kicks out over 12v. Maybe some claim to. I'd be wary. You start hitting hard electrical limitations unless you're using so many batteries that you're essentially vaping on a bookend. Might as well hook it up to an AC/DC transformer and plug it into the wall.
I suppose it IS possible to get to say, 250w and maybe even higher. You either need 4 18650's (yes, 12v or 70A from 3 cells is just barely enough, but when the voltage drops under load, it isn't) or a really fat, high-current and high-voltage series/parallel lipo stack.
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What he said^^^^^^
I don't think this is a MOD problem I think the OP has a build or juice issue.
All I'm trying to say is... If done correctly a high voltage series unregulated mod is possible. It's extreme, but not insane. I get tire of the first reaction to these question is. Your crazy and going to kill yourself. Maybe offer help first as to HOW to do something safely. if it can be done safely. After-all this thread was the OP first post and thread. Were here to help and learn, not wipe each others noses.
Exactly, what I was refering too. I'm no expert.. But it just seemed to me in a series Mech, the risk of cooking the batteries higher than in an even basically protected circuit of a wired mod. I don't know the terms, not an electrician. But I thought that's what the mosfets, fuses and resistors were about. Minimizing the risk of battery failure. Maybe even insert a potentiometer into the circuit so it could run less volts within a controlled range.
I don't think this is a MOD problem I think the OP has a build or juice issue.
All I'm trying to say is... If done correctly a high voltage series unregulated mod is possible. It's extreme, but not insane. I get tire of the first reaction to these question is. Your crazy and going to kill yourself. Maybe offer help first as to HOW to do something safely. if it can be done safely. After-all this thread was the OP first post and thread. Were here to help and learn, not wipe each others noses.
Exactly, what I was refering too. I'm no expert.. But it just seemed to me in a series Mech, the risk of cooking the batteries higher than in an even basically protected circuit of a wired mod. I don't know the terms, not an electrician. But I thought that's what the mosfets, fuses and resistors were about. Minimizing the risk of battery failure. Maybe even insert a potentiometer into the circuit so it could run less volts within a controlled range.
Word.
Personally, I think 12v is a lot to not have any regulation on, not because of safety concerns (the resistance range just changes) but simply because of practicality. It really limits the builds you can do that will fit/work. I just don't see how it would ever work in a 22mm RDA unless it has the space to house like, 4 big-ass stacked claptons or something absurd like that. It is a crazy thing to do just to get a better hit. It's something a person would do more for the sake of pushing things, which is fine, but you would need to go out of your way to form a good plan and get some exotic hardware. Otherwise, you're rendering the mod more or less useless with everything you own.
Yep, that's what they do. But it's a performance compromise. Better to use something that doesn't need it and run it under optimal parameters, I think. A crazy mod with more capabilities that needs a bunch of handicapping safety features isn't necessarily going to perform better than something humbler running at its uninhibited best.
I like the potentiometer idea. A 12v box with a potentiometer would be pretty badass!
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Yes 12volts is alot... I wouldn't doit. Heck I rarely vape at over 4 volts.
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If Parallel is like holding a heavy weight with several short chains, then serial is like holding the weight with one long chain.
In parallel the load is divided between the chains, in serial all the links in the chain get the same max load, so if one of the links fail they all fail.
In addition the risk of arching at high current (with a hybrid) rises as the voltage rises.
For example a car battery is 40-50A 12V and if you ever jump started a car, you've seen how easily those bastards arch and spark.
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Don't give them any ideas, next thing you know they'll be trying to make a Mod with a car battery.
Seriously a 3 battery series?
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DIY FancyLights
Member For 4 Years
Anyone doing 3 battery series should either do it as a fully regulated or at least a PWM mod in order to allow for tuning at the electrical level.
You can get a good setup using a triple parallel if you build low enough. With the 3 batts you can pull around 60 amps safely and get high wattage. Try using higher gauge wire like 22-20ga SS. Twisted or parallel dual coil build at .08 will kick at 200 watts. Trying to convert from parallel to series can be a pain in the ass. Just change your build
I am a vaping metalhead
I am a vaping metalhead
Rabbit Slayer
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Maybe you should learn how to build coils before trying to rebuild a mod