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Will an unregulated mod vape the same with the same coil as my regulated mod?
- Thread starter joeyboy
- Start date
Thank you for the information.
No reason to beat around the bush on something less than what you have.
With the sig you have a constant power over the life of both batteries. set it at wattage it will deliver that wattage to the atty giving you the volts it is running through coil.
Mechs start at 4.25 ish and drops every press of the button.
With the sig you have a constant power over the life of both batteries. set it at wattage it will deliver that wattage to the atty giving you the volts it is running through coil.
Mechs start at 4.25 ish and drops every press of the button.
To figure out how many watts your mech is going to deliver to the 1.2 ohm coil, we'd need to know what the voltage drop is. Then we can figure how many watts you'll have with a fresh battery, though the power declines as you use it.
Here's a calculator: http://www.ohmslawcalculator.com/ohms-law-calculator
Bottom line: if you want to get more than 14 (probably closer to 10-11) watts out of a 1.2 ohm coil, keep using your regulated mod.
Here's a calculator: http://www.ohmslawcalculator.com/ohms-law-calculator
Bottom line: if you want to get more than 14 (probably closer to 10-11) watts out of a 1.2 ohm coil, keep using your regulated mod.
I use the steam app. It is great.
A helpful trick is to build on your regulated device as if it was a mechanical. When i use my Sigelei i build so that i enjoy the performance at around 3.8-4V. That way i know that i will enjoy those builds on a mech mod as well. I try to avoid having to adjust the wattage to the build, instead i build to suit the average voltage on a mech, all while enjoying a consistent, regulated vape until my batteries die 
Otherwise you'll not know where to start when you use a mech, and essentially have to learn to build all over again. Obviously on a mech you have to consider battery safety limitations, but it's easy to find a build that you enjoy without risking your precious face haha
Otherwise you'll not know where to start when you use a mech, and essentially have to learn to build all over again. Obviously on a mech you have to consider battery safety limitations, but it's easy to find a build that you enjoy without risking your precious face haha
I normally always vape at 22.5 watts. Not exciting I know but it works for me. I don't know how to build on my sig like you are saying. I do have an MVP v2 that only goes to 5 volts. Wish I could put a dripper on that. I don't know. Maybe 31 nichrome at 1.8 ohms? Unsure of your method.
EXACTLY.A helpful trick is to build on your regulated device as if it was a mechanical. When i use my Sigelei i build so that i enjoy the performance at around 3.8-4V. That way i know that i will enjoy those builds on a mech mod as well. I try to avoid having to adjust the wattage to the build, instead i build to suit the average voltage on a mech, all while enjoying a consistent, regulated vape until my batteries die
Mech users should have 2 must have tools period. A ohm meter and an inline voltage regulator.
That's an interesting take - I usually build a couple ticks higher in resistance for my regulated devices in order to stay well away from the low-end firing limits and to get bigger coils with more surface area. Since I like 50-60 watts regardless, I can squeeze an extra wrap or two on my regulated builds versus having to build smaller coils to deliver that power on a mech.A helpful trick is to build on your regulated device as if it was a mechanical. When i use my Sigelei i build so that i enjoy the performance at around 3.8-4V. That way i know that i will enjoy those builds on a mech mod as well. I try to avoid having to adjust the wattage to the build, instead i build to suit the average voltage on a mech, all while enjoying a consistent, regulated vape until my batteries die
I'm guilty of doing that from time to time haha. That's one of the reasons i've switched almost exclusively to nichrome-i can add an extra wrap or two to nearly every build. Subjectively the flavor is also cleaner in my opinion. Regardless-more wraps = more fun!
And USA Ohm Meters are by FAR the best i've ever used! Insanely accurate (1/1000th of an ohm) and so far mine has been incredibly durable and equally trustworthy. It doesn't hurt that you can customize the color of the case and the display as well!!
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The second cheapo I got from LightningVapes is still kicking and generally agrees with my Sig and iStick readings (the FT one died), but if it ever kicks the bucket or I have $40 or so burning a hole in my pocket one of the mid-level USA meters is definitely on my list of wants...I'm guilty of doing that from time to time haha. That's one of the reasons i've switched almost exclusively to nichrome-i can add an extra wrap or two to nearly every build. Subjectively the flavor is also cleaner in my opinion. Regardless-more wraps = more fun!
And USA Ohm Meters are by FAR the best i've ever used! Insanely accurate (1/1000th of an ohm) and so far mine has been incredibly durable and equally trustworthy. It doesn't hurt that you can customize the color of the case and the display as well!!
If I was building .ofuckingwithdarwin I would want a 1/1000 or a 1/10000th reading ohm meter.
One thing also on building a mech you go by the constant not the pulse rating for the build.. it will mean the difference between vaping and OH FUCK.
Where are your blunt-ass replies on some of the threads I've been seeing the last couple days where guys are debating how far over the pulse limit they can go for how long? One guy insists he's going to vape 0.075 safely, as long as he only does it "once in a while" and puts something like a 0.12 on his daily driver...
I've never built below 0.2, most of the time 0.3 and since I've gone regulated more like 0.4 or 0.5 - if I was vaping stupid sub-ohm then the high-dollar meter would be a must (I forgot to mention I have a Fluke multimeter that I've also used to test accuracy on occasion), but there's a reason I call it "stupid sub-ohm."
sorry building below .1 is fuck tarded in the land of fuck tarded. I call it tard ohming.
.075 safely is not safe.. it is fucking aids and ebola infected monkeys without a rubber cause they look clean. A dead short is a dead short is a dead short, it is not if it will fail it is when.
CurlyxCracker
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I gave that guy some valid info on safety of using pulse ratings
martinelias
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Vtc4s in series can handle .08 no problem. That being said im usually at .1-.2 leaning close to .1 almost always. I use either hexohm or cherrybomber and the bomber pushes a much more satisfying vape imo seems the hexohm is a warmer vape even with potentiometer (sp) turned all the way down.
Faceless Vapes
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I think you mean parallel. Running .08 in series on a mech box would be dangerous
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CurlyxCracker
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Very much so, you'd essentially "stacking" the batteries in series increasing the voltage. In parallel your spitting the amperage across two batteries
martinelias
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Good call, i meant parallel.
UncleRJ
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In two words.............HELL NO!
Can anyone answer this?
Will a dual 18650 parallel wired box mod with a potentiometer push 6 volts if set at 100%??
Wanting to get a custom box made and deciding between a series and parallel with a potentiometer.
Series and parallel are different. Series basically combines the battery power so two 4.2 volt batteries will give you 8.4, in theory. You have to build for that using ohms law. Too low and no good.
A parallel uses the batteries in tandem. Two 4.2 volt batteries gives you 4.2 volts and allows the power to last longer than a single tube mech mod, which is still 4.2 on a fully charged battery.
Hexohm builds theirs the way you want. Just buy one of theirs.
A parallel uses the batteries in tandem. Two 4.2 volt batteries gives you 4.2 volts and allows the power to last longer than a single tube mech mod, which is still 4.2 on a fully charged battery.
Hexohm builds theirs the way you want. Just buy one of theirs.
Potentiometers are essentially passive variable resistors. They don't boost. They're basically just switches with graduations between on and off, like a dimmer switch (well, not literally, but functionally they are.) The furthest "up" they go is "wide-open," as in, they let the power from the batteries through (mostly) uninterrupted. So if you have batteries kicking out 4 odd volts as you would in a parallel configuration, you'll never get more than that past the potentiometer.
You'll usually see these things in series boxes as a simple way of having some control over the power. The reason they tend to only go up to 6 volts has to do with the fact that no potentiometer is truly non-resistive, even if turned all the way up. So the 8v kicking out from two stacked cells drops to 6 when it passes through the potentiometer. Some can go higher, but the 6v ones are still pretty common.
I second the Hexohm recc. They're kickass if potentiometer boxes are what you're into. I prefer straight series at that point, though being able to selectively push past or just have a steadier unregulated 4v is interesting.
Anyway...
...I've never known mechs to hit harder than regulated. Why would they? Regulated's power graph is just a straight line from start to finish. Because of the sag and drop, a mech's power is peaky - it trails off, even over the span of one hit. I think when people say a mech hits hard, it's in comparison to other mechs. They're referring to the voltage drop, which can vary considerably from design to design.
I (and I think many others) actually prefer mechs for that reason. With a regulated box, the temperature rises more and more as you hold the button, whereas there's a critical point with mechs where the heat sort of plateaus. For me, this means deeper, fuller, more satisfying drags and no dry hits. Reggy boxes are touchy by comparison.
You have to build to a mech's unique power curve to coax comparable performance out of them. It can be done, just not with the same coil. Mass becomes much more important in keeping ramp-up down. With regulated power, it's fine and often desirable to run anemic, power-hungry builds. But mech builds have to be very power-efficient. And then you still want as much surface area as possible. You don't have as many options. Subtle changes can make a much bigger difference when you can't adjust the power.
But that is to say it's really just a matter of there being different balances to strike. A build that's been optimally balanced to a mech will perform similarly to one optimized for a reggy box. They can both be made to "hit hard." They will always have some distinctly different characteristics from one another, though. Very much a love it or hate it scenario.
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I love my tube mods but lately I have been hexohm all the time. Probably the last two months. I get one day, maybe, out of a tube but I can get two days easy with the hex. I also turn it up if I want it a little hotter. Since I always build the same coil, a little boring, I don't have to think about it.
I bought all this stuff for the dead line and use something so simple.
I bought all this stuff for the dead line and use something so simple.
personally vvvw settings get in the way of my vaping.
in mechs i just build and have an idea of how its going to hit... and as the voltage drops i close off airflow a bit to compensate for lost power until i feel the need to change cells.
in regulated i find myself playing the watt up watt down game.
most probably its psychological, but i prefer the build to taste approach rather than set to taste, if that even makes any sense to any of you.
also, mechs are instant, if set up that way. i find regulated to delay a little on the punch factor, although ive heard the newer regulated mods allow you to add this punch. forget what its called but thr dna200 had such a feature. still didnt cut it for me though, it is what it is.
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in mechs i just build and have an idea of how its going to hit... and as the voltage drops i close off airflow a bit to compensate for lost power until i feel the need to change cells.
in regulated i find myself playing the watt up watt down game.
most probably its psychological, but i prefer the build to taste approach rather than set to taste, if that even makes any sense to any of you.
also, mechs are instant, if set up that way. i find regulated to delay a little on the punch factor, although ive heard the newer regulated mods allow you to add this punch. forget what its called but thr dna200 had such a feature. still didnt cut it for me though, it is what it is.
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I agree with this but do like kanthal temp control with a tank. The rda is easier right now because I don't feel like rebuilding my tank.
Haha, for sure. There are ways to tame them considerably, but yeah, you can't make them not kick like nothing else heh.
Oh, I totally get it. I prefer to get everything right the first time so that I don't have to mess with anything later. That's one of the best parts about using mechs. They just *work* Using one couldn't be simpler.
What you talk about with conceptualizing vapes is true. You start just kind of knowing what a coil is gonna do by looking at it and how to build to different performance characteristics intuitively. I always recommend that any experienced regulated vaper at least spend some appreciable time tinkering with a tube mod on the side as a learning endeavor. It forces an understanding of many things that you tend to neglect when you can just dial-in the power. Makes you more aware of the subtleties. Sort of like how learning to take pictures with a film camera makes you a more deliberate photographer. Since you can't look at the preview afterwards, you just have to hope you got it right.
The knowledge carries over too. The mech-user's sense helps you get the most out of ANY build.
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