My experiences are the same. I haven't had any issues with the 510 connector on any of my LV mods and that includes my two Triade DNA250's.All my Lost Vape mods have a good quality 510
Cheers,
Steve
My experiences are the same. I haven't had any issues with the 510 connector on any of my LV mods and that includes my two Triade DNA250's.All my Lost Vape mods have a good quality 510
Such a simple but great idea. I should've thought of this. Mine doesn't really warm the batteries, it's in the front panel, so the board is warm. Again, current=warmth. But I'll start popping the cover off. Can't hurt for heat dissipation. Thanks man! Evolv is the only company that I trust charging my batteries with the board, in the mod. I have 10 bays available for others. This guy is just fast, and easier to charge in the mod.It does get warm but charges quick.I take the battery cover off when using the onboard charging, it helps keep it cool.
I'm happy to hear it turned out alright. That's nothing to fool with.Such a simple but great idea. I should've thought of this. Mine doesn't really warm the batteries, it's in the front panel, so the board is warm. Again, current=warmth. But I'll start popping the cover off. Can't hurt for heat dissipation. Thanks man! Evolv is the only company that I trust charging my batteries with the board, in the mod. I have 10 bays available for others. This guy is just fast, and easier to charge in the mod.
I'm really impressed with this mod. Mine has some minor paint chips, don't think I made them, and the leather on mine isn't adhered great in one corner. Oh well. I baby my mods and this one isn't likely to leave the house frequently.
I've been vaping unregulated series boxes a lot lately, and it's really bad when you go from TC to a series box, and forget that your not on TC, and take a huge long pull. I may have done that a few times when my wick was drying up. I'm stupid.
On the topic of series boxes, wrong thread, I gotta vent. I had a new dual mosfet series box built and the first day within 5 minutes, the switch failed while firing. I couldn't un jam it, I think something was loose in it, so I popped my atty and batteries out. It continued smoking and stunk like shit. Batteries were not even warm and both at 4.10, fine. I'm waiting for confirmation of what happened, but the switch had arcing on the button and was welded in, thus auto firing. Contacts must have shorted in the switch, I'm surprised my batteries didn't vent or warm up. I'm just glad I have my hands and face. I took some pics in case the modder wanted them, but he was very cool. Scared the living shit out of me, I knew what to do, but I know I got kinda lucky. A sobering reminder that 8.4 volts to your face is no joke. Fuck. I can lol now. Live and learn, though I did nothing wrong. Experience!
/ventshareingvapestorydangerthreadjack. Lol.
You might be able to snug it up by taking the door off. Then squeeze the ends gently together (think of the door as a Taco shell and you are squeezing the open end together). Just try a little bit at a time. Retest and repeat as needed.You should be able to get it feeling snug.Well, I found something to comment about it that bugs me. The door that came with mine. While it fits nicely with the batteries in it, it shifts when I pick the mod up, making a clicking sound. It is slightly short and has a little play in it. While it's not indicative of the electronics, it is something that bugs me a bit. Hopefully the replacement doors that I ordered fit it a bit better.
The sides are perfect...the movement is up and down. Not by much, maybe as little as 0.010" or so, but enough to bug me. As a retired aerospace toolmaker, 0.010" is a country mile.
It doesn't bug me, luckily, but I notice the same thing. Doors secure, just a verrrryyyy small amount, to use a car term, panel gap. It would pass the Chevrolet and G.M. Parts check, but BMW would send it back for a new door. Lol. Tolerances in the mass produced world aren't perfect, this one doesn't bother me. You aren't alone in noticing.The sides are perfect...the movement is up and down. Not by much, maybe as little as 0.010" or so, but enough to bug me. As a retired aerospace toolmaker, 0.010" is a country mile.
I wouldn't get to vocal about your love of the 510. Another user will come on and tell you how it's a Chinese POS 510 using a rubber grommet and is terrible even though no one has had any issue with it.It doesn't bug me, luckily, but I notice the same thing. Doors secure, just a verrrryyyy small amount, to use a car term, panel gap. It would pass the Chevrolet and G.M. Parts check, but BMW would send it back for a new door. Lol. Tolerances in the mass produced world aren't perfect, this one doesn't bother me. You aren't alone in noticing.
And I've been on a huge series box binge, ironically I've barely used this mod. I don't know if it's from factory, me knocking another mod, very lightly, into it while picking it up? But I do have a few spots of paint chipping. It's small so oh well.
This still is a great mod. The 510 on it is a dream. I'm so fed up with 510 connections. Even nice mods have issues, fat daddy vapes, varitube. They are the weak point and for TC a crucial point on any mod. I am just tired of 510s that can't sit flush today's rdas, which tend to have well protruding 510's. I've got a mod by Smoking Vapor, it's a cheesy tiny PWM mod, it puts out a hard punch of up to 180 watts. It performs. Moral of the story, the 510 on it is perfect. The magnets fall out of the battery door, there seems to not even be super glue to hold them. That's the kind of quality, but the thing fucking chucks and the 510 is perfect. If they can do it, on a shitty cheesy little mod, there's no excuse on a DNA mod. 510 connections have been the standard for long enough that it seems they're here to stay for better or worse. Can we get some consistency in such a crucial component in the industry? It's not like they're expensive to produce.
Cliff notes:
End 510 rant. That's Not applicable for this mod, it's 510 is great, lol.
Yeah I have the gap, too. And my paints chipping a bit. Love the 510 and love the mod.
Lol. Well, if xenophobia tied to someone's Vape device is a personality trait they possess, that's too bad for them. I agree with you. This is one of the most robust 510's I've had, too. I'm somewhat ashamed to say I have 27 boxes of various brands and types to compare it too. Lol. I have a few attys that have extremely long 510's, and are problems with many devices. This mod has taken all of them, and the insulator hasn't been compressed, nothing.I wouldn't get to vocal about your love of the 510. Another user will come on and tell you how it's a Chinese POS 510 using a rubber grommet and is terrible even though no one has had any issue with it.
Me personally it's been about as robust a 510 as I have on any of my devices.
I'd try locking the resistance if you haven't already. I know this chip shouldn't need it, but I find myself doing it almost always. I find with any TC mod if the atty is disturbed pretty much at all, it affects the resistance, and thus TC. The atty and build make a difference, but even pulling a top cap off and putting it back on can cause enough fluctuation that TC starts cutting power too soon, or immediately. I unscrew the rda and re screw it back down, no new coil. That solves it usually.So far I've spent most of the time with my triades in power mode as i cannot get a consistent vape with my ss430 builds when i first screw the tank on and it asks if it's a new coil i get a really good vape for about five minutes then it becomes totally weak and i barely get any vapour or throat hit. I cleaned the 510's, I've experimented with various preheat strengths but then it occured to me the fact i get exactly the vape I'm looking for when i first attach the tank means the problem isn't with the tank or the coil. It's probably something in escribe I'm missing but very frustrating and given my ml class works flawlessly with all the tanks I'm starting to think i should have got one g class instead of two triades even though the mod itself is a solid good looking mod.
Have you noticed what the resistance is when you first screw on the tank? Is it going down when your vape changes? Is the tank (coils) cool when you first screw it on (room temperature)?So far I've spent most of the time with my triades in power mode as i cannot get a consistent vape with my ss430 builds when i first screw the tank on and it asks if it's a new coil i get a really good vape for about five minutes then it becomes totally weak and i barely get any vapour or throat hit. I cleaned the 510's, I've experimented with various preheat strengths but then it occured to me the fact i get exactly the vape I'm looking for when i first attach the tank means the problem isn't with the tank or the coil. It's probably something in escribe I'm missing but very frustrating and given my ml class works flawlessly with all the tanks I'm starting to think i should have got one g class instead of two triades even though the mod itself is a solid good looking mod.
That shouldn't drop that much if they are at room temperature. I use Unkamen SS430. I tried some from Crazy Wire with bad results. I gently torch mine with a regular Bic lighter to get rid of the springiness before coiling. Lastly I make my wraps spaced. I gently pulse them to make sure they are heating from the inside out with no hot spots. I'm not sure what else to tell you other than that. I'll keep thinking and maybe something will strike me. Good luck!Thanks guys yeah I've tried locked and unlocked no difference one of the first things i did was use your config files Wings like the screen changes they are better then the stock lost vape ones also used your hg2 config as those are the batterys i have. Resistance on the two supreme tanks i use are both .22 and drops to .20 when the vape goes weak which i don't know if that's normal for dna boards they are always at room temp when i first screw them on.
The locking of the resistance can hurt more than help with TC.Thanks guys yeah I've tried locked and unlocked no difference one of the first things i did was use your config files Wings like the screen changes they are better then the stock lost vape ones also used your hg2 config as those are the batterys i have. Resistance on the two supreme tanks i use are both .22 and drops to .20 when the vape goes weak which i don't know if that's normal for dna boards they are always at room temp when i first screw them on.
If wire and stuff has the same SS430 as Crazy Wire (also in the UK) you will get terrible results. Using the TCR of .00138, I barely had any vapor. The TCR was way off (well imo the wire's formulation was off - if I had to guess I would say it has quite a bit of Nickel in it, thus raising the TCR). The SS430 from Unkamen is Nickel free and the wire profile from Steam Engine works like a charm. With the SS430 from CW, I had to raise the TCR from .00138 to between .00175-.002 to get a comparable vape.I bought my wire from wireandstuff.co.uk always been good quality but I haven't been torching it so will give that a go and see if it makes a difference. Both triades are now on unlocked resistance as locking made no difference, just had a thought does dual coils make any difference to how the dna would work I'm still in yihi mindset a bit and single coil or double didn't make any difference but maybe it does with the dna.
Theoretically. Think of it this way, if the resistance reading off by .01-.02 it's a bigger percentage of error of .2 ohms than it would be of .5 ohms. That being said my dual SS430 coils come out to around .31 ohms and I don't have any issues.0.22? Isn't that a bit low for proper TC vaping? I've not used that specific SS wire before, as I use SS316L, but I've always read and understand that the closer to 0.5 you get your coils, the better off you are.
Am I wrong??
Not sure where you are, but I use Temco for my wire. Cheap, free shipping and excellent quality.
That was the case with nickel(but it was a 0.1) You needed a large enough resistance for the mod to calculate ∆Rt.0.22? Isn't that a bit low for proper TC vaping? I've not used that specific SS wire before, as I use SS316L, but I've always read and understand that the closer to 0.5 you get your coils, the better off you are.
Am I wrong??
Mine did same paint pealing off so took some p600 and a little polish now need to do the doors ,got 2 diffrent ones a yellow leather Original and the peacock leather version, will be sanding down the yellow versions door too ,+1 No kidding. That is enough Amps to put your ass right in the ICU. This shit is no fucking joke. Especially Mechs and Hybrids. These motherfuckers will kill your ass if something goes wrong. That is why I switched to DNA only. You can rely on DNA. As a last stop it has fuses. However don't be stupid and use the DNA as an Ohm meter as some people do. I know you guy's probably don't but Some cheap bastards think they are so smart until they wear their face on their shirt with their arm sticking out the mouth! Okay, sorry for graphic shit but this stuff is no joke. This will kill your ass for real but DNA most likely will not.
Well my paint peeled good. I figured that Fuckit. I don't really care. It is how the machine performs not how it looks. Ever go in a big factory? The machines paint is all off but they are humming along. I honestly do not give a shit about this. So not even going to call out LV. Who cares. That's my attitude. I drive a high end car. A young man smashed it. I got out and asked if he was alright. He said yeah but I don't think I am about to be.... I said take it easy it is just a fucking car I am glad we are both okay that's all. Cosmetic things do not matter. Now, I do get pissed when a mod fails because not smoking is important. Even then shit happens. Such is life dependent on machines.
The crazy wire company has some great SS wires good prices too if your EU side of the pond , im UK so its a local UK suppliers , found there wires great service is fantastic had lots of free wires too had a delay on one order of several rolls of 50m 316L diffrent gauges an they sent me a few 100m rolls as gifts very nice of them to do soI agree 100%. Best 316SS wire supplier there is...Great company
Thanks for the kind words. I'm glad you like it. If you have any questions, feel free to ask!Wings your a star that last profile is working like a charm thank you finally using both of them in tc .
I'd get something on the frame soon, else it will oxidize, and it's not pretty when it does. A bit of automotive clear should do it, if you decide to keep it bare.Mine did same paint pealing off so took some p600 and a little polish now need to do the doors ,got 2 diffrent ones a yellow leather Original and the peacock leather version, will be sanding down the yellow versions door too ,
looks for a possible new type of wrapp or coating for the door,
It actually looks quite good as SS type colour polished up , not finished it yet needs a bit finer paper an polishing but this gives you an idea of what SS version would be like ,
possibly carbon fiber would look good especially if place inserts on the face plate like therion has too, give it a new Unique look , feels lot smoother
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Mine is a house mod mostly as well. I do have my box mods displayed on a three tier rack, and they fill the thing up, and then some. I need more space, or to stop buying mods. My Triade 250 has some small chips, I have knocked another mod into it picking one up, that could've nicked the paint a bit. I think mine may have arrived that way though. My box was sealed, but the packaging that holds the mod was cracked, so it held in place, but probably moved a bit.I can't figure out why some of us have no problem with the paint while some do. I bought my two Triade 250's right when they first came out and the paint looks the same now as when I bought them. Mine are mostly house mods though. I do use them, it's not like I have them in a glass case.
The only mod I had issues with the paint was one of my VT133's. I don't fault the mod though, it's mostly on the bottom and I used the hell out of it. I'm saying I wore it off. I will say it seems like heavy use can cause that with some Zinc Alloy mods.
Cheers,
Steve
I can't figure out why some of us have no problem with the paint while some do. I bought my two Triade 250's right when they first came out and the paint looks the same now as when I bought them. Mine are mostly house mods though. I do use them, it's not like I have them in a glass case.
The only mod I had issues with the paint was one of my VT133's. I don't fault the mod though, it's mostly on the bottom and I used the hell out of it. I'm saying I wore it off. I will say it seems like heavy use can cause that with some Zinc Alloy mods.
Cheers,
Steve
They were talking about this exact subject on Not Another Vape Show. Mike Vapes says that the reason for paint issues on mods is because of the lack of a primer.I think it has to be a QC problem. and it's not just Lost Vape. I have an Alien that looks like it just came out of the ox, and others have posted photos with horrible wear and paint loss with a week or two. Now maybe I/we treat our mods with more care, but it's odd that I've had good luck with everything I've purchased while others have had numerous problems. Given that I'm not prone to incredible good luck, it's clear that there can be manufacturing defects which some folks may exacerbate in their treatment, even if gentle.
I always wonder if getting spilled juice on the mod will affect the paint adhesion, so even small accumulations might be sufficient to kick off the process. Once one small area begins to blister it interferes with adhesion adjacent and keeps on rolling even if no further exposure occurs.
I have zero evidence to support that, and am trying to find some common connection of those plagued with finish problems and those without.
I dont think they are, i have not seen any on there instagram or any other pics. Ill keep you posted if i here anything. But for now it seems they are only on the Therion.Anyone know if there's snake leather panels for the Triade DNA250?
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Those will look sick on the Triade DNA250. I got myself the Triade and I'm really impressed. I have brown leather and looking to get the snake leather. Last I heard from LV that they were going to make the snake skin panels but didn't get any update.I dont think they are, i have not seen any on there instagram or any other pics. Ill keep you posted if i here anything. But for now it seems they are only on the Therion.