I'm IMO still kinda new in the stainless steel building and grasping the concept of TC control. Never-the-less, over dryburning the SS builds is very easy to do and having to get my clapton almost red to get the cooties to harden enough to scrape off. You can pulse, scrape, pulse scrape but eventually having to get the coil quite hot in order to scrape to remove the char. I put some water into a jug with a metal tip and putting a drop or two on the hot build after a pulse really cleans it up well then blot to dry, repeat a few times and your build is cleaned up nicely without having to make the build red hot.
I have to clean the airflow tube in my STM RBA and that requires taking the RBA to bits to clean or the next build has a char taste to it. Water doesn't wash it out enough. Even after washing there is remnants of old juice under the peek insulators also. I remove the build, with torch heat up some then dunk into water and without using excessive heat it cleans the build very well then I reinstall the build back into the RBA.
The difference between cotton and rayon wicking that I've posted this before but it still pertains in a wicking thread:
Cotton...the juice flows inside the fiber thus expanding the fiber so less in the coil cause it expands enough not to choke the juice flow inside the coil. The flowing inside the fiber is part to why it clogs easily and wears out so fast. Your using heavy sweet juices that partially vaporized at the ends of the coil blocking the flow inside the fiber so your loosing flow ability of the fibers slowly until no more flow and coil burns.
Rayon... the juice flows outside the fiber so it has to be tight in the coil cause as-per-say the rayon shrinks when actually it settles upon itself and doesn't shrink at all. Rayon you have the problem of massive thick tails cause of so much material that has to be in the coil, literally so tight that you almost distort the coil installing the rayon. Its those massive tails that choke juice flow so thinning them by scraping sharp tweezers or anything pointy through the tail removing excess material to a desired amount for proper juice flow. Shortest distance between well and coil is also crucial, making rabbit ears then stuffing having a mish-mash is IMO wrong. Juice the coil before installing the chimney, making sure all fibers are straight, even making the tails longer than they should be to pull some back to ensure the top of the outside wraps aren't exposed.
I've been wicking with rayon for 3 years now and when wicked properly nothing can compare to its longevity and its ability to move juice effectively. I easily move 100+ mls of juice through a rayon build and I may have a cocoon coil but after a rinse the rayon is just barely browned and in very good shape