MoserCooks
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Wow that ammo box looks awsome! and what are the mini pacmans
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Basic MOSFET wiring
- Thread starter Vape_geek
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WescottsVape
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Thats definitely a good idea, so file a groove in like the back of the sled to slip in the negative wire? sounds like that'll bake it easier to solder too.
MoserCooks
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Is there a board that would allow you to control further than a tenth of a watt?
MoserCooks
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Or If I want to really get that control should it come from the atty and I am way off base? I want to be able to create a mod to ultimately burn the juice at precisely the right temp.
Yeah, don't be afraid to do some grinding or filing on those sleds, plenty of meat on them. If you look at the mod I posted, look at the very top right side where I cut off some of the sled to bring the 510 wire down the side of the box, but keeping the sled tight on that side to box. And yes you can file a channel down the middle of the sled if you wish to run your neg up. I ran myneg up the side cause that is where I had room for the fet, but I like your idea too.
Sounds like you need a DNA 40 board build then.
WescottsVape
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sorry duplicate
MoserCooks
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Thats awsome thanks.
MoserCooks
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For me its a place to start. Thanks now going to fiure out the rest.. will put the pieces together then ask questions
WescottsVape
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Looks like I know what I'm doing tomorrow, time to file out my sled and rebend my wires. I pulled the trigger on a Hammond 1591ASBK and it should be here the same time as my new switch and my resistors. Hopefully I'll have the mod done by Thursday!
WescottsVape
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Apparently I bought mine right before the new version came out
I did too.. 4 days early for me..and I could of waited since im waiting for sled.Apparently I bought mine right before the new version came out
Says in 3 weeks he is getting slim ones in too, so Im waiting to see them.
WescottsVape
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I just got done filing out my sled and bending up some new wires. I'm liking the way it came out, what do you think? Sorry its not straight up and down I don't know why it uploaded like that
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WescottsVape
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Yeah that switch is definitely a bit big, I like the way it feels but it's gunna take up way too much space inside the box. At least once the button with screw terminals comes in it'll be a lot easier to hook up. Any thoughts on making a regulated, DNA 30-40 type mod next?
WescottsVape
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A master on/off switch probably wouldn't be a bad idea later on either considering this will spend a lot of time in my pocket.
It's pretty hard to beat that hana clone box and all the switches and wire Fasttech has for a single Battery DNA box build. Takes a shit load of filing a hammond box for that square window for the screen.
WescottsVape
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Shit the clones only cost $70 I probably couldn't get the parts for that much
Edit: It'd actually probably only be about $50 for that kit on fasttech and the chip. Hmmm... thats doable...
Edit: It'd actually probably only be about $50 for that kit on fasttech and the chip. Hmmm... thats doable...
Lowes Homedepot I getthe house romex and split the outside insulation off the 3 wire set, and walla I have 3 color of different 14ga solid
He fixed that, you can order 1 now. He made a mistake and had bulk pricing only on it, it's fixed now
WescottsVape
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I just saw a DNA 30 online for $45 now thats a steal! I don't know much about VW devices though. Is the Hana Modz the an original that uses an actual DNA 30 chip, not a cone chip?
Edit: It actually says Hanaa? Clone I'm guessing?
Edit: It actually says Hanaa? Clone I'm guessing?
WescottsVape
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Sure if your tape job is good it will work. I have a lot of heat shrink at work for the wires, and I would sure recommend strongly that you use the small for the mosfet legs to wire.
For the big fet I use this.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/330754643773?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT
robtest
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you can use the liquid electric tape (or even fingernail polish) ...
Also a couple coats of paint inside the box will keep things from shorting out on it if you are using a metal box like the hammonds...
Also a couple coats of paint inside the box will keep things from shorting out on it if you are using a metal box like the hammonds...
WescottsVape
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Awesome thanks for the tips! I was going to order this http://www.fasttech.com/products/0/10004244/1140200-30mm-heat-shrink-wrap-1-meter for an old battery that i need to wrap, I think this will work for the mosfet too if I cut it down. I'm too impatient to wait for it to get here for this box though. I guess I'll just have to make another one and do that mod up right with all the shrink wrap. I'm using an ABS box so I'm not going to have to worry about shorting out with the box, but the legs of that mosfet are so damn small I feel like without something it would be way too easy to get a short there.
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WescottsVape
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Do you think it woould be best to solder the battery connections out of the sled, or can I just leave them in and be try not to hit the plastic? I think it would be pretty difficult to slide the connectors back into place with the leads already on them.
Jackson
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Let me thow out a few random thoughts.
I doctored this diagram that was posted.
With an aluminum box and a tightly fitted atty connector why not just it for the negative? Hence I show the mosfet tab bolted to the box, which will also function as a heat sink for it. Mosfets need to ramp up to full saturation, in the in-between semi-on state (triode mode) it is in fact operating like a resistor with high channel resistance. May as well drain off that heat rather than swaddling it in a heat shrink tubing cocoon.
Folks may want to jump and say that alumium is not nearly as good a conductor. From the Aluminum Assoc.
I also moved the mosfet lower to shorten the source lead. Why? When it comes to a wire's current carrying capability we need to take the length into consideration. If we use the multimeters that most folks have, the resistance of ~2.5" of 18G will read as ZERO. With a fancier meter that reads ohms in hundreds it's still ZERO ohms.
From one of the wire resistance calculators ~ 2.5" of 18G = 0.001Ω. Plunking in 14G also yields 0.001Ω. Note that the results are rounded to the nearest milliohm.
Looking at the 15k pulldown resistor maybe an inexpressive, tiny 20k pot/trimmer would be best.
That way through actual experimentation an ideal resistance can be dialed in. Does this matter? Maybe. You want to mosfet to react and move as quickly as possible thru the middle, triode zone into full saturation. From my notes.
Oh well.
I doctored this diagram that was posted.
With an aluminum box and a tightly fitted atty connector why not just it for the negative? Hence I show the mosfet tab bolted to the box, which will also function as a heat sink for it. Mosfets need to ramp up to full saturation, in the in-between semi-on state (triode mode) it is in fact operating like a resistor with high channel resistance. May as well drain off that heat rather than swaddling it in a heat shrink tubing cocoon.
Folks may want to jump and say that alumium is not nearly as good a conductor. From the Aluminum Assoc.
I also moved the mosfet lower to shorten the source lead. Why? When it comes to a wire's current carrying capability we need to take the length into consideration. If we use the multimeters that most folks have, the resistance of ~2.5" of 18G will read as ZERO. With a fancier meter that reads ohms in hundreds it's still ZERO ohms.
From one of the wire resistance calculators ~ 2.5" of 18G = 0.001Ω. Plunking in 14G also yields 0.001Ω. Note that the results are rounded to the nearest milliohm.
Looking at the 15k pulldown resistor maybe an inexpressive, tiny 20k pot/trimmer would be best.
That way through actual experimentation an ideal resistance can be dialed in. Does this matter? Maybe. You want to mosfet to react and move as quickly as possible thru the middle, triode zone into full saturation. From my notes.
Oh well.
I've done it both ways. keep in mind if you take the contacts out to solder the spacing has to be almost perfect to get them back in sled. Like I said done it both ways, i would say you be the judge considering your soldering skills.
WescottsVape
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Yeah thats exactly what I was thinking, I think it will be easier just to keep the sled together while I solder it. I've done a little bit of soldering before, but only for car stereos or fixing ego batteries.
Oh if you soldered eGo batteries, making a box mod will be easy
WescottsVape
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Haha thanks for the confidence boost, those little chips are a bitch to solder to!
WescottsVape
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I finally got my box(although they sent the wrong one) and put together my mod! Thanks for all of your guys help, Wabah58, without it I'm sure I woulda given up before I had even started. It's not as perfect as it could have been, but I'm happy with it for my first go at putting a box together.
Damn man, that is a awesome first time build. Real clean looking on the battery contacts. How she vape?
WescottsVape
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haha thanks brother, the blobs of solder are hidden by the sled haha. She's vaping great though! One hell of an upgrade from my k100!!
haha. She's vaping great though! One hell of an upgrade from my k100!!
Yeah that should be a nice upgrade.haha thanks brother, the blobs of solder are hidden by the sled
Keep a eye out here on this thread, I have some stuff to peep out coming. 2 different guys shipping me new 3d printed sleds.
Trying out some $3 usb charging boards, instead of the $7 Evolve boards I been using. few other things that should be cool.
@Resnik should be finishing up some builds, hopefully he post them.
WescottsVape
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Sounds sweet! I can't wait to check them out! That definitely sounds interesting, my next build might have to include a charger or maybe a DNA build... I'm finding it kinda hard to find any original chips though.
I saw a post on VU couple days ago about a vendor selling out his DNA30 chip stock, but it was like $40 and $8 shipping, or something like that, you can get a done cloupor dna30 box for that.
I have the Clone elCheapo Dna30 and charge board $24 from Slowtech on way
Debating on a 3d printed box, or a something else a little different for that build.
WescottsVape
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You'll have to let me know how the clone is. Maybe I'll make a much smaller single 18650 box next time...this ones a bit big in my pocket haha I might have started a hobby I can't afford hahahI saw a post on VU couple days ago about a vendor selling out his DNA30 chip stock, but it was like $40 and $8 shipping, or something like that, you can get a done cloupor dna30 box for that.
I have the Clone elCheapo Dna30 and charge board $24 from Slowtech on way
It is kind of addicting, my first box I stressed trying to make everything super clean, because I thought if i didn't like it I could sell it. When it was done, i was like thank god it fired. Then I vaped it for a hour or so, and was like, MAN this is awesome...I was just glad to have the whole thing behind me and vaping. Well a couple weeks go by, and Im like, MAN I should do this, I should do that. I could make this a super clean sleek machine. LOL. I have a guy here that owns a shop so now I can build trying to make awesome clean stuff, and he will buy, so it's kind of fun to play.
WescottsVape
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Haha yeah I was stressing to the point of not even being able to start, but once I said fuck it, it came together pretty well ahah. Your gunna have a lot of fun playing with those 3-D printed parts. It would be sweet to have one printed with molded finger grooves and nice rounded edges. That would be way more comfortable than the hammond boxes! Maybe I'll have to try and start selling some just to justify making them haha I think this one is going to end up being a Christmas present, I need something a bit smaller for myself
Only thing about the 3d stuff is there is a layered look, not silky smooth. Thats ok cause of the customability, but for the actual box, im still debating. Awesome for the battery sleds, and Im in touch with one guy that has a proto type of a dual 18650 sled, and in the right top corner he has a small double stepped ledge with mounting hole for perfect clean Mosfet mounting, no way it could short on anything. then a cover that snaps in filling the void from the top of sled to top of box, even molded perfect around the box screw holes. His first one he wasnt satisfied with tapping threads into the material to secure the mosfets, so he redesigned that area where he presses in a threaded brass piece now. He is kind of trying to get caught up so it's on his back burner for now
WescottsVape
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Wow it sounds like thats going to be the sled to have! Thats a really good idea, I can't wait to see what it comes out like in one of your boxes, once he frees up some time to finish it up.Only thing about the 3d stuff is there is a layered look, not silky smooth. Thats ok cause of the customability, but for the actual box, im still debating. Awesome for the battery sleds, and Im in touch with one guy that has a proto type of a dual 18650 sled, and in the right top corner he has a small double stepped ledge with mounting hole for perfect clean Mosfet mounting, no way it could short on anything. then a cover that snaps in filling the void from the top of sled to top of box, even molded perfect around the box screw holes. His first one he wasnt satisfied with tapping threads into the material to secure the mosfets, so he redesigned that area where he presses in a threaded brass piece now. He is kind of trying to get caught up so it's on his back burner for now