Why a mech?

xpen · May 21, 2017

My take on mechs vs. regulated:
Mechs are small, simple, effective and fun to play with.
Regulated are constant, powerful and safe, for the most part - even in the hands of the average idiot.
There's no need to use mechs today, yet I still enjoy using them: when you see how small a SMPL is, or how powerful a Noisy Cricket can be - despite its diminutive size - you'd understand.
Bottom line, both mechs and regulated have a reason to stay in my mods rotation

Carambrda · May 21, 2017

The Cromwell said:
But mechs hit like a truck!

I own the HOG V3, the XXX with the XTension on it, and two Purge Mods both of which also have the Assassin extension on them. I think they hit at least five times harder than the Space Shuttle.

mach1ne · May 21, 2017

KingPin! said:
do you prefer parralel or series if using two or more batteries?

do you tend to build for exactly the wattage you like to vape it with or just above to begin with?

Other than Q tips to clean the contacts can you use other things as well? For example proper brass cleaner, ultrasonic cleaner (throwing this one in here just to check more than anything)?

If you use complex coil types in regulated mods like I do are these perfectly acceptable using mechs or am I better off using simpler builds?

In the event of a leg coming lose in the atty how would you recognise this and react?

Do you tend to try the atty on a regulated mod for a bit to check it's stable vaping then put on the mech?

Do you still stick to batteries for the amp draw you are going to have or stick to batteries you know are well above what you'll need so there is cover in the event the reisistence changes?

On the point of resistence changing metals like stainless steel do increase when heated do you you factor this in or just calculate everything of the starting resistence?

Sorry to digress khassy

too lazy to format the text, i just answered in order

series is ~8v and parallel is ~4v, so the minimum resistance and build options are very different. the style of vape is also a lot different in general, but you can build a coil to do whatever you want when you get the hang of it. im pretty close to impartial regarding my favorite, but i lean toward series (para-series especially).

i build to amps on mechs and try to balance my coil mass for the voltage of the mod.

i havnt settled on a way to clean my mechs, i have tried everything people recommend and it all works lol i dont have a usc, but i think the only concern there is paint or whatever finish getting 'washed' off. i think i remember mike vapes or some youtuber saying it happened. cant confirm tho...

complex coils are at home on mechs, and visiting on regulated

upping complexity is the only way to get really fine control over your vape on a mech. maybe it needs 2 more plies of ribbon, or different sized frames/wrap wire/diameter etc. building for a mech will tech you everything about building that you cant get on youtube or the forums (the little details and your own preferences on how to manipulate the details into your favorite vape).

i double check every screw/leg/clamp-thing when i install, and i double check everything when i re-wick. its up to you so you have to develop habits right away, and not get over confident and get lazy once you are 'good'. so far i have never had any coil related issues/shorts or anything.

i usually install/fire/color my coils for pics on a regulated mod, and check the resistance to confirm my pre-build calculations (wire wiz). never had a situation where a build that i set up on a regulated mod had a problem on a mech. also done lots of mech only builds with no regulated mod, but im cautious and aware that im upping my chances of a problem because i have shorted coils out before on regulated mods way before i even had a mech mod of any kind. its a lot nicer to see 'coil short' on a screen in those cases, but it was still a reminder that i fucked up and would have been in trouble if i was using a mech (and stopped me from being over confident and lazy lol).

i just try to use the best batteries i can and build for their amp limits.

i build for cold resistance with ss on mechs and it seems to work very well. i only recently started using pure ss coils on a mech though, so my experience is limited.

one thing to think about with any/every mech you get, is how to disable it in the shortest time. every mod is different. some are not easy to disable in short order. i have an osmium parallel box and the spring was very very soft with about .5mm throw (didnt realize it was cooked half to death when i got it in trade. was actually my first parallel box/second mech mod) was in the car one day with it and it started firing in my lap. due to its design (separate caps for each battery that can be hard to unscrew in a panic, and it fires with either battery in single mode), i had no quick way to disable it, other than to grab the scorching hot atty and twist it off using my jacket sleeve covering my hand. compare that to the hog v3 which shoots out the batteries as soon as you touch the button on the battery door. i have had the button in mine give me some problems and if it sticks in at 8v/200+w you are fucked without a way to shut it off. thankfully that battery door is like that. every mod is different, some good, some scary in this regard. go over every mech you get and try to put some thought into the absolute fastest way to cut that circuit. if you cant find a fast (within seconds) way to do it, dont trust the mod in bad situations (driving, anywhere you cant just toss it aside and let it vent etc). i run that osmium box now with the fire button screwed on barely enough to stay put and i never leave the house with it (i also made a new spring and its fine now, but im still scared of it so i treat it this way lol).

other good habits are like @Iliketurtles says, everything other than a normal vape is a red flag. heat, sounds, feels, misfires...all reasons to stop hitting the fire button and figure out whats going on. it doesnt take long to get the feel for it all. mech mods are usually very simple mechanisms to figure out and troubleshoot/fix.

wow that was a long one. sometimes i channel @robot zombie because i miss seeing his extremely thorough posts. hopefully some of it helps :cheers:

pulsevape · May 21, 2017

Iliketurtles said:
More complex builds originated on mechs as a way to get high power without it being either scorching hot or very slow ramp up - they were a way of getting (mainly) big tasty clouds when regulated mods did not give a lot of power. Since then the more complex coils have more to do with photography and artwork than vaping.
Your main safety with a mech are your senses, especially touch - if the mod gets hot too fast thats red flag, if it makes an odd sound red flag, if something doesn't look right, red flag.
Batteries - whatever will safely fire your build.
SS is generally good on mechs as the slight increase in resistance will lower the power to the coil giving a longer period in the sweet spot...with a mech the coil is all as you have no adjustment, it will take a while to get a coil for the mech which does exactly what you want it to do, but once you have it down mechs are great. Great apart from constantly cleaning their switches that is. That and polishing them.....unless you like cleaning and polishing I guess

exactly..again it's like casting a flyrod or swinging a golf club....you know where the line is or the head of the club is by the feel.which is kind of cool because you learn when something is not quite right by your senses instead of relying on the whatever some malfunctioning screen tells you.
That being said....I am someone who has used tools daily for several decades,many of them potential very dangerous...I have developed a feel for them, and have learned to shut down a tool the second it doesn't sound right....there are alot of people who have no bussiness being in the same room with a tool, for them...thank God for regulated devices.

KingPin! · May 21, 2017

mach1ne said:
too lazy to format the text, i just answered in order

series is ~8v and parallel is ~4v, so the minimum resistance and build options are very different. the style of vape is also a lot different in general, but you can build a coil to do whatever you want when you get the hang of it. im pretty close to impartial regarding my favorite, but i lean toward series (para-series especially).

i build to amps on mechs and try to balance my coil mass for the voltage of the mod.

i havnt settled on a way to clean my mechs, i have tried everything people recommend and it all works lol i dont have a usc, but i think the only concern there is paint or whatever finish getting 'washed' off. i think i remember mike vapes or some youtuber saying it happened. cant confirm tho...

complex coils are at home on mechs, and visiting on regulated upping complexity is the only way to get really fine control over your vape on a mech. maybe it needs 2 more plies of ribbon, or different sized frames/wrap wire/diameter etc. building for a mech will tech you everything about building that you cant get on youtube or the forums (the little details and your own preferences on how to manipulate the details into your favorite vape).

i double check every screw/leg/clamp-thing when i install, and i double check everything when i re-wick. its up to you so you have to develop habits right away, and not get over confident and get lazy once you are 'good'. so far i have never had any coil related issues/shorts or anything.

i usually install/fire/color my coils for pics on a regulated mod, and check the resistance to confirm my pre-build calculations (wire wiz). never had a situation where a build that i set up on a regulated mod had a problem on a mech. also done lots of mech only builds with no regulated mod, but im cautious and aware that im upping my chances of a problem because i have shorted coils out before on regulated mods way before i even had a mech mod of any kind. its a lot nicer to see 'coil short' on a screen in those cases, but it was still a reminder that i fucked up and would have been in trouble if i was using a mech (and stopped me from being over confident and lazy lol).

i just try to use the best batteries i can and build for their amp limits.

i build for cold resistance with ss on mechs and it seems to work very well. i only recently started using pure ss coils on a mech though, so my experience is limited.

one thing to think about with any/every mech you get, is how to disable it in the shortest time. every mod is different. some are not easy to disable in short order. i have an osmium parallel box and the spring was very very soft with about .5mm throw (didnt realize it was cooked half to death when i got it in trade. was actually my first parallel box/second mech mod) was in the car one day with it and it started firing in my lap. due to its design (separate caps for each battery that can be hard to unscrew in a panic, and it fires with either battery in single mode), i had no quick way to disable it, other than to grab the scorching hot atty and twist it off using my jacket sleeve covering my hand. compare that to the hog v3 which shoots out the batteries as soon as you touch the button on the battery door. i have had the button in mine give me some problems and if it sticks in at 8v/200+w you are fucked without a way to shut it off. thankfully that battery door is like that. every mod is different, some good, some scary in this regard. go over every mech you get and try to put some thought into the absolute fastest way to cut that circuit. if you cant find a fast (within seconds) way to do it, dont trust the mod in bad situations (driving, anywhere you cant just toss it aside and let it vent etc). i run that osmium box now with the fire button screwed on barely enough to stay put and i never leave the house with it (i also made a new spring and its fine now, but im still scared of it so i treat it this way lol).

other good habits are like @Iliketurtles says, everything other than a normal vape is a red flag. heat, sounds, feels, misfires...all reasons to stop hitting the fire button and figure out whats going on. it doesnt take long to get the feel for it all. mech mods are usually very simple mechanisms to figure out and troubleshoot/fix.

wow that was a long one. sometimes i channel @robot zombie because i miss seeing his extremely thorough posts. hopefully some of it helps

Wow thanks matey for the really thorough response! Awesome as always

KingPin! · May 21, 2017

pulsevape said:
exactly..again it's like casting a flyrod or swinging a golf club....you know where the line is or the head of the club is by the feel.which is kind of cool because you learn when something is not quite right by your senses instead of relying on the whatever some malfunctioning screen tells you.
That being said....I am someone who has used tools daily for several decades,many of them potential very dangerous...I have developed a feel for them, and have learned to shut down a tool the second it doesn't sound right....there are alot of people who have no bussiness being in the same room with a tool, for them...thank God for regulated devices.

Thanks pulse I like to think I went for a noob entry mech getting the Geekvape mech pro...I don't class myself as a muppet lol but then everyone says that ....maybe I'm overly cautious, I ask anything and everything before I start something like this been building my own coils for quite a while now so I'm well versed in safety using them

It's got a disable switch on it, and a sled designed in such a way batteries will not be allowed to be inserted and fired if I reverse them by accident not that I would anyway, it's also got a magnetic side door so it'll take next to no time to get that off then one hard wack if something goes wrong and batteries will come out

pulsevape · May 21, 2017

KingPin! said:
Thanks pulse I like to think I went for a noob entry mech getting the Geekvape mech pro...I don't class myself as a muppet lol but then everyone says that ....maybe I'm overly cautious, I ask anything and everything before I start something like this been building my own coils for quite a while now so I'm well versed in safety using them

It's got a disable switch on it, and a sled designed in such a way batteries will not be allowed to be inserted and fired if I reverse them by accident not that I would anyway, it's also got a magnetic side door so it'll take next to no time to get that off then one hard wack if something goes wrong and batteries will come out

up until 2 years ago almost 90% of noob entry vapers learned how to vape on a mech mod.....there is no great mystery,it isn't rocket science...however back in those days we didn't have noob entry level vapers trying to start their vaping education demanding to vape a .02 coil either. they were building .8 or .5 coils to cut their teeth on...nowdays every noob wants to be a cloud bro within a week.

r055co · May 21, 2017

pulsevape said:
up until 2 years ago almost 90% of noob entry vapers learned how to vape on a mech mod.....there is no great mystery,it isn't rocket science...however back in those days we didn't have noob entry level vapers trying to start their vaping education demanding to vape a .02 coil either. they were building .8 or .5 coils to cut their teeth on...nowdays every noob wants to be a cloud bro within a week.

Yep, that's the problem.

Mech's aren't complicated at all, they're very simple which is why they IMO provide the best Vape. There are very simple rules, but extremely important rules that must be followed. But with today you've got a very small minority that are too stupid to even care about following those very simple rules and end up in the news. They end up being the tools for the anti-vape whores of Big Pharma out to destroy Vaping.

The Cromwell · May 21, 2017

Iliketurtles said:
Great apart from constantly cleaning their switches that is. That and polishing them.....unless you like cleaning and polishing I guess

Yep.

Khassy · May 21, 2017

KingPin! said:
Sorry to digress khassy

No worries, I'm learning a ton!

KingPin! · May 21, 2017

pulsevape said:
up until 2 years ago almost 90% of noob entry vapers learned how to vape on a mech mod.....there is no great mystery,it isn't rocket science...however back in those days we didn't have noob entry level vapers trying to start their vaping education demanding to vape a .02 coil either. they were building .8 or .5 coils to cut their teeth on...nowdays every noob wants to be a cloud bro within a week.

Was never that guy and will never be either

think it was more a checklist to begin with for me find out about everything available in vaping and what is the best route to get through it all ...(apart from building my own device left to do) mechs are the last on my list

think it was Rossco who scared me off with the rules list he used to post to the noobs lol and mentioned somewhere blow your fucking face off ...thought at the time yeah I'll think I'll skip that one for now ....probably why I'm still a little nervous

Still like anything treat it with respect and remain on the ball don't get complacent jobs a gooden

The Cromwell · May 21, 2017

pulsevape said:
up until 2 years ago almost 90% of noob entry vapers learned how to vape on a mech mod.....there is no great mystery,it isn't rocket science...however back in those days we didn't have noob entry level vapers trying to start their vaping education demanding to vape a .02 coil either. they were building .8 or .5 coils to cut their teeth on...nowdays every noob wants to be a cloud bro within a week.

Naah most were learning to vape on Unregulated Ego and cigalike batteries.
Then the Istick 20W became a hot item.
And the Istick 50W later which was sometimes a smoking hot item

Khassy · May 21, 2017

pulsevape said:
up until 2 years ago almost 90% of noob entry vapers learned how to vape on a mech mod.....there is no great mystery,it isn't rocket science...however back in those days we didn't have noob entry level vapers trying to start their vaping education demanding to vape a .02 coil either. they were building .8 or .5 coils to cut their teeth on...nowdays every noob wants to be a cloud bro within a week.

Personally, I wish I could get the flavor with very little cloud. The big cloud bros seem, to me, to be millennials wanting to show off and be cool. :teehee:

r055co · May 21, 2017

KingPin! said:
Was never that guy and will never be either think it was more a checklist to begin with for me find out about everything available in vaping and what is the best route to get through it all ...(apart from building my own device left to do) mechs are the last on my list

think it was Rossco who scared me off with the rules list he used to post to the noobs lol and mentioned somewhere blow your fucking face off ...thought at the time yeah I'll think I'll skip that one for now ....probably why I'm still a little nervous
Still like anything treat it with respect and remain on the ball don't get complacent jobs a gooden

Just follow the rules and you'll be fine, they're easy and simple. Hell much easier to follow than driving

The Cromwell · May 21, 2017

Khassy said:
Personally, I wish I could get the flavor with very little cloud. The big cloud bros seem, to me, to be millennials wanting to show off and be cool.

Higher PG = Less clouds and more flavor.
but a bit more throat hit.

Iliketurtles · May 21, 2017

KingPin! said:
Thanks pulse I like to think I went for a noob entry mech getting the Geekvape mech pro...I don't class myself as a muppet lol but then everyone says that ....maybe I'm overly cautious, I ask anything and everything before I start something like this been building my own coils for quite a while now so I'm well versed in safety using them

It's got a disable switch on it, and a sled designed in such a way batteries will not be allowed to be inserted and fired if I reverse them by accident not that I would anyway, it's also got a magnetic side door so it'll take next to no time to get that off then one hard wack if something goes wrong and batteries will come out

It looks decent, I don't have one but from pics online the design looks OK. I believe Bogan said you have to really commit to press the switch to stop it from doing a little arcing.

CashNVape · May 21, 2017

the vape is smoother, no PWM. I have noticed after using mechs only, that when trying a box, even a DNA chip box the vape pulsates. mechs for life!

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

The Cromwell · May 21, 2017

Iliketurtles said:
It looks decent, I don't have one but from pics online the design looks OK. I believe Bogan said you have to really commit to press the switch to stop it from doing a little arcing.

All mechs need a decisive push on the button to minimize arcing.

Khassy · May 21, 2017

The Cromwell said:
Higher PG = Less clouds and more flavor.
but a bit more throat hit.

Yeah, that's why I try to stick with 50/50 as much as possible. Especially now that I'm starting to make my own juice.

With all the DNA talk, I'm also looking closely at getting a Lost Vape Therion DNA 166 mod. It'll be the last vape item I'll be able to buy for a looooong time, and it will cost me a bj :teehee:

, but I'm really coveting one now.

r055co · May 21, 2017

The Cromwell said:
Higher PG = Less clouds and more flavor.
but a bit more throat hit.

It's a balancing game, for MTL I like a 50/50 blend but when doing DTL 70-80 VG is the sweet spot. I've trided 90+ VG and it sucks balls, bland flavorless. But high PG I'll hack up a lung.

KingPin! · May 21, 2017

Iliketurtles said:
It looks decent, I don't have one but from pics online the design looks OK. I believe Bogan said you have to really commit to press the switch to stop it from doing a little arcing.

Thanks turtles I'll keep an eye on that!

f1r3b1rd · May 21, 2017

r055co said:
It's a balancing game, for MTL I like a 50/50 blend but when doing DTL 70-80 VG is the sweet spot. I've trided 90+ VG and it sucks balls, bland flavorless. But high PG I'll hack up a lung.

Heavy VG gives makes my chest tight. I found 60/40 is about as heavy as I can go. Coincidentally that seems to work well for DL and MTL.

BAM crew

The Cromwell · May 21, 2017

Khassy said:
Yeah, that's why I try to stick with 50/50 as much as possible. Especially now that I'm starting to make my own juice.

With all the DNA talk, I'm also looking closely at getting a Lost Vape Therion DNA 166 mod. It'll be the last vape item I'll be able to buy for a looooong time, and it will cost me a bj , but I'm really coveting one now.

I DTL at .3 with 60/40 PG/VG now. Was doing 50/50. 3 mg/ml nic and it is a smooth vape.

The Cromwell · May 21, 2017

f1r3b1rd said:
Heavy VG gives makes my chest tight. I found 60/40 is about as heavy as I can go. Coincidentally that seems to work well for DL and MTL.

BAM crew

At 60% VG and higher I start hacking up VG.

JuicyLucy · May 21, 2017

The Cromwell said:
At 60% VG and higher I start hacking up VG.

So do I - it's like a VG loogie

f1r3b1rd · May 21, 2017

The Cromwell said:
At 60% VG and higher I start hacking up VG.

60 is about as high as I can go.
At 70, it starts hurting to breathe.

BAM crew

pulsevape · May 21, 2017

Khassy said:
Personally, I wish I could get the flavor with very little cloud. The big cloud bros seem, to me, to be millennials wanting to show off and be cool.

you can...almost no serious flavor chaser I know uses big coils and big clouds that is a fallacy...yes you have a bigger wick which means you are vaping more juice which equals to you are vaping more flavorings...but most people agree high temps don't produce the best flavor. there are a couple of ways to get better flavor...first you could use a single coil dripper or squonker with a reduced chamber and reduced airflow there are a ton of these types of attys around...bigger coils demand bigger airflow.
secondly you could get rid of using pillow stuffing for a wick, and use ss mesh, which gives far better flavor than cotton..I am primarily a flavor chaser and I use gennys 95% of the time with ss mesh,and as a confirmed genhead I tend to look for slightly bigger clouds than most genheads and prefer vaping anywhere from .7 to .9, and I will drill out my airholes slightly and even my wickholes slightly to get a bigger wick and a little more vapor... alot of other genny users won't build below 1 ohm because they say vaping 1 ohm and higher gives the best flavor.

Mike H. · May 21, 2017

I still like an ol fashioned 1 ohm kayfun or taifun vape...im working on owning every version ever made of the two manufacturers...all will be clones but, so far the clones have made me happy at higher ohms and lower power.

Then i have my mid vape set ups and "clouds bro" set ups as well.

I like all the levels of vaping but find myself about mid way the majority of the time.

AndriaD · May 21, 2017

Khassy said:
Personally, I wish I could get the flavor with very little cloud. The big cloud bros seem, to me, to be millennials wanting to show off and be cool.

That's why I vape 86% PG, at <10w.

Andria

whiteowl84 · May 22, 2017

Lol. Regulated mods have amp limits. And a measurable lifespan.

Sent from my E5306 using Tapatalk

The Cromwell · May 22, 2017

whiteowl84 said:
Lol. Regulated mods have amp limits. And a measurable lifespan.

Sent from my E5306 using Tapatalk

Yes many of the higher wattage ones especially tend to have short lifespans.
Been using a Kanger Kbox Mini daily for about 2 years now not a single glitch.
however I will not buy one of the higher wattage ones due to issues.

Mechs have amp limits too. it is called a battery.

whiteowl84 · May 22, 2017

The Cromwell said:
Yes many of the higher wattage ones especially tend to have short lifespans.
Been using a Kanger Kbox Mini daily for about 2 years now not a single glitch.
however I will not buy one of the higher wattage ones due to issues.

Mechs have amp limits too. it is called a battery.

So what you're saying is the mod has no amp limit.
The insulators would melt before my batteries got close to venting.

In fact this is a cheap ijoy atty:

Sent from my E5306 using Tapatalk

The Cromwell · May 22, 2017

whiteowl84 said:
So what you're saying is the mod has no amp limit.
The insulators would melt before my batteries got close to venting.

In fact this is a cheap ijoy atty:

Sent from my E5306 using Tapatalk

And once the insulator melts and causes a direct short to the battery?

whiteowl84 · May 22, 2017

The Cromwell said:
And once the insulator melts and causes a direct short to the battery?

As you can see there is no short. But it's a good reason not to use cheaply made attys without PEEK. And a good reason tards shouldn't use mechs. Had I kept coloring I'm sure it would have shorted but I know how much power a given ply count will pull and if I'm not getting that then I know something is wrong.

Sent from my E5306 using Tapatalk

The Cromwell · May 22, 2017

whiteowl84 said:
As you can see there is no short. But it's a good reason not to use cheaply made attys without PEEK. And a good reason tards shouldn't use mechs. Had I kept coloring I'm sure it would have shorted but I know how much power a given ply count will pull and if I'm not getting that then I know something is wrong.

Sent from my E5306 using Tapatalk

Vape safe.
And that was an atty not the mod.
everything has an amp limit.
I have seen the middle of a crowbar vaporize when a dumpass dropped it across some battery bussbars. BIG batteries like used in Submarines.

crazydmnd · May 22, 2017

Most everything everyone has said I agree with, but for me it was because back in the "pre-DNA" days, it was the only way to "sub-ohm" since 15 watts was pretty much the limit with the Nivel type chips...

However, I continue to love my mechs and I ALWAYS keep one with me in case something happens to my regulated mods... as long as you have a charged battery, you can always keep vapin...

Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk

The Cromwell · May 22, 2017

Again it depends on your definition of subohm.
I vape .4 at 18 watts. A lovely flavorful vape.

whiteowl84 · May 22, 2017

The Cromwell said:
Vape safe.
And that was an atty not the mod.
everything has an amp limit.
I have seen the middle of a crowbar vaporize when a dumpass dropped it across some battery bussbars. BIG batteries like used in Submarines.

You're argument for my mod having an amp limit included a scenario of unlimited amperage.

As we are using the word limit:
lim·it/ˈlimit/
noun

a point or level beyond which something does not or may not extend or pass.

un·lim·it·ed/ˌənˈlimidəd/
adjective

not limited or restricted in terms of number, quantity, or extent.

There is nothing in my mod limiting amperage. Not the batteries, not the bar, not the switch and not a chip. What I build, it fires.
If you want to nitpick someone on something then so be it but for the sake of a good argument please have some idea what words mean in the language you speak and in the context you use them.
Get back to your bridge troll.

Sent from my E5306 using Tapatalk

The Cromwell · May 22, 2017

whiteowl84 said:
You're argument for my mod having an amp limit included a scenario of unlimited amperage.

As we are using the word limit:
lim·it/ˈlimit/
noun

a point or level beyond which something does not or may not extend or pass.

un·lim·it·ed/ˌənˈlimidəd/
adjective

not limited or restricted in terms of number, quantity, or extent.

There is nothing in my mod limiting amperage. Not the batteries, not the bar, not the switch and not a chip. What I build, it fires.
If you want to nitpick someone on something then so be it but for the sake of a good argument please have some idea what words mean in the language you speak and in the context you use them.
Get back to your bridge troll.

Sent from my E5306 using Tapatalk

when a part of any conductor carries to much current it overheats and melts.
This is the amp limit and all electrical conductors have them.

amps can also be limited by resistance, which can be overcome by applying more voltage until the physical amp limit of the conductor is reached.

whiteowl84 · May 22, 2017

The Cromwell said:
when a part of any conductor carries to much current it overheats and melts.
This is the amp limit and all electrical conductors have them.

amps can also be limited by resistance, which can be overcome by applying more voltage until the physical amp limit of the conductor is reached.

You can keep dumping amperage into a molten metal if nothing is governing it.
You're getting pretty desperate for stuff to say when you ignore the definition of a word.
And you mean "too much" not "to much".
It's crazy how stupid the Americans are when most of us can't use our own native language properly. And ignore the very definition of a word to try to keep up with another's retort.

If you really think a limit is the point at which a conductor fails then what word would you use to describe the amperage level at which a protective circuit would cut the power?

When a mod has a 30a limit is that the point at which the mod explodes and melts? No.

Sent from my E5306 using Tapatalk

The Cromwell · May 22, 2017

whiteowl84 said:
You can keep dumping amperage into a molten metal if nothing is governing it.
You're getting pretty desperate for stuff to say when you ignore the definition of a word.
And you mean "too much" not "to much".
It's crazy how stupid the Americans are when most of us can't use our own native language properly. And ignore the very definition of a word to try to keep up with another's retort.

If you really think a limit is the point at which a conductor fails then what word would you use to describe the amperage level at which a protective circuit would cut the power?

When a mod has a 30a limit is that the point at which the mod explodes and melts? No.

Sent from my E5306 using Tapatalk

A regulated mod has a regulated amp limit.
A mech only has a melt point amp limit.

whiteowl84 · May 22, 2017

So you're down making up phrases? Melt point amp limit?
If there were a limit it couldn't melt at all. Read the definition a few times and come back when you have something new to say. You've literally said the same thing over and over and it goes against the definition of the word. It's just pathetic at this point.
You're the reason the builders all leave the forums and you're stuck with a ton of idiots that think the newest $50 China mod is the coolest thing ever.
To the constructive members here you know I'm not talking about you.

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The Cromwell · May 22, 2017

whiteowl84 said:
So you're down making up phrases? Melt point amp limit?
If there were a limit it couldn't melt at all. Read the definition a few times and come back when you have something new to say. You've literally said the same thing over and over and it goes against the definition of the word. It's just pathetic at this point.
You're the reason the builders all leave the forums and you're stuck with a ton of idiots that think the newest $50 China mod is the coolest thing ever.
To the constructive members here you know I'm not talking about you.

Sent from my E5306 using Tapatalk

Chill out dude.
Drama much?

f1r3b1rd · May 22, 2017

whiteowl84 said:
So you're down making up phrases? Melt point amp limit?
If there were a limit it couldn't melt at all. Read the definition a few times and come back when you have something new to say. You've literally said the same thing over and over and it goes against the definition of the word. It's just pathetic at this point.
You're the reason the builders all leave the forums and you're stuck with a ton of idiots that think the newest $50 China mod is the coolest thing ever.
To the constructive members here you know I'm not talking about you.

Sent from my E5306 using Tapatalk

What would say is the amp limit for continuous discharge of a samsung 25r?

BAM crew

whiteowl84 · May 22, 2017

f1r3b1rd said:
What would say is the amp limit for continuous discharge of a samsung 25r?

BAM crew

There is no limit. If there was I couldn't pull 40a from them.
Sony has a CDR of 30a on some batteries but they also provide a chart that no one shares where Sony gives the pulse ratings. 150a for 0.5 seconds is the one I remember.

And I'm mid build. Pretty chill.
You've clearly never been on 4chan.

f1r3b1rd · May 22, 2017

whiteowl84 said:
There is no limit. If there was I couldn't pull 40a from them.
Sony has a CDR of 30a on some batteries but they also provide a chart that no one shares where Sony gives the pulse ratings. 150a for 0.5 seconds is the one I remember.

And I'm mid build. Pretty chill.
You've clearly never been on 4chan.

I specifically asked for CDR not pulse limits.
Some people err on the side of caution. ESPECIALLY when giving advice to noobs. I consider it the responsibile thing to do. If you don't know these people other than a name on a screen, you don't know how they maintain their gear, how often they rotate their cells, clean their contacts, ensure they are safe. As to your comments on 50$ China mods.
Where are these batteries made?

BAM crew

whiteowl84 · May 22, 2017

f1r3b1rd said:
I specifically asked for CDR not pulse limits.
Some people err on the side of caution. ESPECIALLY when giving advice to noobs. I consider it the responsibile thing to do. If you don't know these people other than a name on a screen, you don't know how they maintain their gear, how often they rotate their cells, clean their contacts, ensure they are safe. As to your comments on 50$ China mods.
Where are these batteries made?

BAM crew

Mine are made in Korea. Some come from China but there's a difference between a tried and true battery and mod companies like sig and Smok using the masses as beta testers.
You remember the on board charging Smok used that exploded? Or the 213 which was sold on features it never had?

I've had more regulated mods fail than I have batteries vent. I have 2 DNA mods which evolv can't fix and a 213 that didn't make it 6 months.
Never vented a battery.
And it doesn't matter what amperage I pull from a cell. No one here builds like we do so you'll never be in a situation where it matters. Those that do already know. And if someone is dumb enough to run 0.09 builds on a tube just because I can then nothing was going to save them. Safety is each persons responsibility and shouldn't be influenced by one guy.

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The Cromwell · May 22, 2017

whiteowl84 said:
There is no limit. If there was I couldn't pull 40a from them.
Sony has a CDR of 30a on some batteries but they also provide a chart that no one shares where Sony gives the pulse ratings. 150a for 0.5 seconds is the one I remember.

And I'm mid build. Pretty chill.
You've clearly never been on 4chan.

Nope have no idea what 4Chan is.

Hope you do not blow yer face off.
Happy vaping to ya.

Khassy · May 22, 2017

f1r3b1rd · May 22, 2017

whiteowl84 said:
Mine are made in Korea. Some come from China but there's a difference between a tried and true battery and mod companies like sig and Smok using the masses as beta testers.
You remember the on board charging Smok used that exploded? Or the 213 which was sold on features it never had?

I've had more regulated mods fail than I have batteries vent. I have 2 DNA mods which evolv can't fix and a 213 that didn't make it 6 months.
Never vented a battery.
And it doesn't matter what amperage I pull from a cell. No one here builds like we do so you'll never be in a situation where it matters. Those that do already know. And if someone is dumb enough to run 0.09 builds on a tube just because I can then nothing was going to save them. Safety is each persons responsibility and shouldn't be influenced by one guy.

Sent from my E5306 using Tapatalk

Personally I'm with you on SOME of the Chinese modders.... But not all, not by a long shot.

Some people don't take care of their mods. Additionally; all electronics fail, it's never a question of if, but always a question of when. Some may last 30years, some may last 6 months. My Harmon Cardin citation 12 power amp from the 1960s out performs most modern sound systems. That doesn't mean I don't appreciate modern equipment, I just prefer this.

You are also correct that safety should not be preached by one person. It should be preached by the community at Large. Especially with what is going on in the industry. It's prudent for us to do our part and stay off the news. Personally, I preach sticking with CDR ratings, because I don't know the name on a screen. If someone wants to super subohm, that's up to them. But understand the risk you're taking and do it as safely as possible. I do it from time to time, but rarely. I also rotate my cells, make sure my wrappers are in good shape, contacts are clean, build is secure and take all necessary precautions.

BAM crew

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