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Not another wattage question

Ryan_AlanUSN10

Member For 2 Years
So if you wanted to run the big fancy juice monsters at super low resistance it’s just all around better to run a regulated mod. Sure batteries will drain quick AF. But atleast you can run them low and long without aforementioned blowing your face off. I think I’m again more partial to the crazy coil builds and nice decks to mount them on. Not saying I’ll never give a mech a try but ima just stick to the Drag 2 for now :)
 

SteveS45

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Not saying I’ll never give a mech a try but ima just stick to the Drag 2 for now :)

I ran a (Wismec) MOD for 4-5 years a bunch of dumbasses told me had inferior wiring and other BS at 100 Watts plus in TC Mode. My point is don't believe everything you read on the Internet or forums because a ton of it is just repeated BS from someone who might have tested it one time. Not to say people like Mooch have not done extensive testing, but take it all with a grain of salt. I personally think all the bad Shit about SMOK is total BS because they have worked work for me for years. Remember most failures are from abuse and not manufacturing defects. Just my fucking Opinion you must remember.
 

MrMeowgi

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The topic was originally coils, specifically low resistance advanced wrapped coils and the difference of wattage or power applied to them in a given mod. Mechanical or Regulated. I’m not changing topics by talking about the new X or Y RDA and how good it’s air flow is. It’s all relevant.
Ok I got confused. Sorry about that. Was trying to read all that at work earlier I guess when I should've been working. Lol
 

gsmit1

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Member For 4 Years
This all being said. I apologize for any abrasion caused to anyone here but with what your sayin about the coils being used in both applications that was my point man. It can be done (for the most part) and typically it’s higher wattage on mech mods just the nature of it. And the whole point of this post was to see if the same wattage is acceptable on a regulated. Stupid question. I think a lot of people took it wrong or misinterpreted this as me saying I want to get a mech mod with a 20A max battery and run .03 coils in it and blow my face off.

IM SORRY FOR ALL THE CONFUSION
You don't know anybody here and nobody knows you, so some confusion can be understandable. I don't plan on letting it be a problem going forward.

Let's take a .2 ohm build. Say you like that at 65 watts. That's going to require about 3.6 volts and 18 amps.

A decent regulated mod will see that the resistance of the heating element/s in the build is .2 ohms and that you have asked that 65 watts be sent to that heating element. It calculates the voltage and current required, and checks to see if the battery/ies can provide whats' needed to meet that request. (something close to that) If they can, it will fire. If not, it won't.

With a mech you have none of that.

Assume the following:
--------------------------------
An atomizer with a sufficiently protruding positive pin,

Total voltage sag that brings you to around 3.6 or 3.7 volts, which will depend on:
the internal resistance of the battery
the voltage drop of the mod itself,

A battery that is capable of the required continuous current drain....
-----------------------------
you can unscrew it from the regulated mod, put it on a hybrid mech tube and get a vape experience in the same ballpark, though it might start a little higher and drift lower as the battery drains. Of course depending on those same things, it might start lower and drift lower still.

In the mech tube, when you close the circuit it WILL send whatever is in the battery directly to the coils. No calculation, no protections. No ohms too low, no atomizer short or any other kind of short, no low battery voltage etc. No nuthin. It's ALL on you and if you do it wrong at any critical point, life can become a real bummer.

You increase or decrease the power (wattage) by the resistance of the build. Like Lucy was saying, wire mass will also greatly effect the current requirement and hence how quickly it will ramp up too. I didn't even think of that when I first started.

Anyway, sometimes, once I get typing, I don't know when to stop. Anybody should of course feel free to correct any of this if I'm wrong. This is a condensed version too.
 
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gsmit1

Platinum Contributor
Member For 4 Years
The main difference between the Mech World and The Regulated Realm is you won't blow your FACE OFF with too Low a Build for your batteries. Not just how it ramps up or battery longevity. There is that WTF happened moment when it gives an error or waking up in the ER.
I would humbly submit that this would be the result of the difference between the regulated and mech worlds if that difference is not properly understood.
 

Ryan_AlanUSN10

Member For 2 Years
Ok I got confused. Sorry about that. Was trying to read all that at work earlier I guess when I should've been working. Lol
Same, I was speed reading and typing at work too man! Haha all good. I guess we kinda got to the bottom of it. (Or I did atleast) if I wanna run the juice monsters just regulate it, it’s safer and more efficient. Plus the worst that could happen is the batteries die really quickly.(proper batteries ofcoures)
I’m finding with the Coils I’m running now (CoilTurd 28G Framed Staples (.10) it takes a while to heat up and definitely drains my battery more than usual. But man they throw smoke and I have tried them all the way up to 107W without sacrificing too much flavor. I’ll be honest I’m scared to run them higher hahah
 

MrMeowgi

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I’m not here to make enemy’s either but her response was not relevant to my question and I understand you guys are looking out for people’s safety. But you see “new member” asking about coils and you say “you’re not ready! Learn Ohms Law” and then have people chiming in telling you don’t know shit when they know nothing about you and then turning around making themselves look like an ass by saying that wattage isn’t affected by your battery.... as previously stated I am not a vape wizard or claim to be. But I do understand ohms law and I was simply starting a thread geared towards low resistance coils. And I never said that the same coils can’t be used in either devices. I simply stated that comparing mechs to regulated is “a different world” and typically different builds. Let me clarify you’re not gunna put a .06 coil on a single tube 18650 and followed by stating “I find most mech users run higher resistance”. I don’t believe I’m wrong in either of those aspects
In your first post you said the battery gives the power to the mech coils and that you would be stuck with 100+ watts which is incorrect and JuicyLucy syktated you're not ready for a mech with just that statement alone. The coils make the power. As long as your build is below the cdr of the battery you will be safe. But not every . 1ohm build will work with every battery. I've known Lucy for years and we're used to new members coming in with statements like that which usually prove the person is not ready for a mechanical device. The batteries are the heartbeat of a mechanical mod and if you exceed the safe limits your heartbeat "battery" will have a heart attack. I can tell you first hand she wasn't trying to be a dick but her answers were relevant. It's all good though. Electrician experience is a little different than mech mod experience. Everyone here offering help is more than 20 years of vaping experience put together.
 

Ryan_AlanUSN10

Member For 2 Years
You don't know anybody here and nobody knows you, so some confusion can be understandable. I don't plan on letting it be a problem going forward.

Let's take a .2 ohm build. Say you like that at 65 watts. That's going to require about 3.6 volts and 18 amps.

A decent regulated mod will see that the resistance of the heating element/s in the build is .2 ohms and that you have asked that 65 watts be sent to that heating element. It calculates the voltage and current required, and checks to see if the battery/ies can provide whats' needed to meet that request. (something close to that) If they can, it will fire. If not, it won't.

With a mech you have none of that.

Assume the following:
--------------------------------
An atomizer with a sufficiently protruding positive pin,

Total voltage sag that brings you to around 3.6 or 3.7 volts, which will depend on:
the internal resistance of the battery
the voltage drop of the mod itself,

A battery that is capable of a the required continuous current drain....

you can unscrew it from the regulated mod, put it on a mech tube and get a vape experience in the same ballpark, though it might start a little higher and drift lower as the battery drains. Of course depending on those same things, it might start lower and drift lower still.

In the mech tube, when you close the circuit it WILL send whatever is in the battery directly to the coils. No calculation, no protections. No ohms too low, no atomizer short or any other kind of short, no low battery voltage etc. No nuthin. It's ALL on you and if you do it wrong at any critical point, life can become a real bummer.

You increase or decrease the power (wattage) by the resistance of the build. Like Lucy was saying, wire mass will also greatly effect the current requirement and hence how quickly it will ramp up too. I didn't even think of that when I first started.

Anyway, sometimes, once I get typing, I don't know when to stop. Anybody should of course feel free to correct any of this if I'm wrong. This is a condensed version too.


I got cha man. Most of this makes sense to me.. I appreciate that detailed post. we could even go down to the nitty gritty of the metal content of the contractors and the tube. I’ve heard if you can find silver it’s the best you can get in vaping. Now calculating THAT into your coil builds and battery types is getting WAYYYYYYY past my league here in the vape world. Again I apologize for my abrasive entrance into VU. Still kinda new to this side of vaping. Trying to pick it all up.
 

MrMeowgi

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I’m running a .1 coil now. Have been at 90w All day. AND I AGREE ITS DIFFERENT THATS WHAT THIS WHOLE POST WAS ABOUT!!
Using a vtc6 on a. 1 coil? Mooch has that battery rated at 15/20amps.so in a mech you would be in the danger zone with that build. Here's a pic of that build on a mechanical device and some ohms law for you. Keep in mind you've double the safety limit of that battery. That's the difference in regulated and mech. And why different batteries are needed for the coil type.
f9d1c243a8372fecb47ac6a8cc8fd1e7.jpg
 

Ryan_AlanUSN10

Member For 2 Years
In your first post you said the battery gives the power to the mech coils and that you would be stuck with 100+ watts which is incorrect and JuicyLucy syktated you're not ready for a mech with just that statement alone. The coils make the power. As long as your build is below the cdr of the battery you will be safe. But not every . 1ohm build will work with every battery. I've known Lucy for years and we're used to new members coming in with statements like that which usually prove the person is not ready for a mechanical device. The batteries are the heartbeat of a mechanical mod and if you exceed the safe limits your heartbeat "battery" will have a heart attack. I can tell you first hand she wasn't trying to be a dick but her answers were relevant. It's all good though. Electrician experience is a little different than mech mod experience. Everyone here offering help is more than 20 years of vaping experience put together.
Thanks man. I understand. I guess what I was getting at with the first statement is I’ve seen some crazy mods push some crazy Watts. In a mech mod if you were capable ofcourse with a low resistance coil your initial firings off of it would be reeeeeealy high wattage. And you can’t control that, unless you add resistance through the coils. I was
 
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MrMeowgi

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Same, I was speed reading and typing at work too man! Haha all good. I guess we kinda got to the bottom of it. (Or I did atleast) if I wanna run the juice monsters just regulate it, it’s safer and more efficient. Plus the worst that could happen is the batteries die really quickly.(proper batteries ofcoures)
I’m finding with the Coils I’m running now (CoilTurd 28G Framed Staples (.10) it takes a while to heat up and definitely drains my battery more than usual. But man they throw smoke and I have tried them all the way up to 107W without sacrificing too much flavor. I’ll be honest I’m scared to run them higher hahah
Mech mods are great though at the same time. Glad we're all getting where we need to be lol. Cheers man
 

MrMeowgi

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The Batteries make the power according to the coil build. No battery will make what a coil requires if it cannot produce the voltage and wattage.
You know what I mean though. Your .5 build isn't going to make the batteries decide to hit 90 watts. Your coil determines the wattage as long as your batteries can handle it.
 

gsmit1

Platinum Contributor
Member For 4 Years
Thanks man. I understand. I guess what I was getting at with the first statement is I’ve seen some crazy mods push some crazy Watts. In a mech mod if you were capable ofcourse with a low resistance coil your initial firings off of it would be reeeeeealy high wattage. And you can’t control that, unless you add resistance through the coils. I was
I got a copper Vaperz Cloud XXX series stack from @MrMeowgi along with a copper Druga rda. I'm running Sanyo 2070c batteries in it, fresh off the charger. A .3 build. That's just north of 200 watts, but only a 26 amp or so current draw because of the voltage from both batteries in series. That is a seriously muscular vape. I don't always vape that high ,but I do love it and that setup just begs for it.
 

Theboss

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So if you wanted to run the big fancy juice monsters at super low resistance it’s just all around better to run a regulated mod. Sure batteries will drain quick AF. But atleast you can run them low and long without aforementioned blowing your face off. I think I’m again more partial to the crazy coil builds and nice decks to mount them on. Not saying I’ll never give a mech a try but ima just stick to the Drag 2 for now :)
Get out of here, really? you've gotta be shitting me man. You come on here with what you call newb questions then when @JuicyLucy replies with good advice for you your reply is full of arrogance and a resume? You wanker! 10 year electrician who doesn't understand the relation between resistance and battery draw?

I'm not saying leave the forum, but get a grip and learn some humility. There are people on here like myself who have been using mechs safely for a long time and would be more than happy to help people who aren't God damn know it all's.
 
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SteveS45

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Member For 5 Years
You know what I mean though. Your .5 build isn't going to make the batteries decide to hit 90 watts. Your coil determines the wattage as long as your batteries can handle it.

I run Regulated so if I build beyond my MOD or Battery limits I can't fire it. With RDA's and RDTA's I have built to the limits of my MOD's and they gave me errors when I tried to fire a Hot SS Coil built to .1Ω . So I do not have time to be worrying or dealing with building low. I vape regulated and factory made coils. I feel confident my MOD will not blow up in my freaking face.
 

Ryan_AlanUSN10

Member For 2 Years
Get the fuck out of here, really? you've gotta be shitting me man. You come on here with what you call newb questions then when @JuicyLucy replies with good advice for you your reply is full of arrogance and a resume? Fuck off you wanker. 10 year electrician who doesn't understand the relation between resistance and battery draw?

I'm not saying leave the forum, but get a grip and learn some humility. There are people on here like myself who have been using mechs safely and would be more than happy to help people who aren't God damn know it all's.
Not even going to try and argue. If you found something in my post I’ve said that is completely wrong please quote me and tell me why and we’ll get it sorted. Not trying to be an Arse. But her initial response was not relevant to my question. And just telling me to learn ohms law and I’m not ready for something that I don’t really want but have thought about... just came off abrasive herself. Ima sure she’s plenty knowledgeable. Never said she wasn’t.

Cheers
 

Ryan_AlanUSN10

Member For 2 Years
I run Regulated so if I build beyond my MOD or Battery limits I can't fire it. With RDA's and RDTA's I have built to the limits of my MOD's and they gave me errors when I tried to fire a Hot SS Coil built to .1Ω . So I do not have time to be worrying or dealing with building low. I vape regulated and factory made coils. I feel confident my MOD will not blow up in my freaking face.


Different regulated mods are rated to handle different loads. I have been running the .1 with no problems. I have a set of .07s I’m wanting to try but these are still fresh. I will admit I’ve tried the factory made coils of all sorts and I really enjoy the flavor and vapor production from these hand mades they weren’t that expensive but I can definitely tell the time was put in to make them. Very nice maybe worth trying a set sometime. :) I do love some SS as the temp control is very useful
 

Vape Fan

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But her initial response was not relevant to my question. And just telling me to learn ohms law and I’m not ready for something that I don’t really want but have thought about... just came off abrasive herself.
Question or no question. Her initial response was very relevant and not abrasive. If you state something that is unsafe, it will be called out. No need to have hurt feelings over it. You made the mistake - not her. The mistake was posted inaccuracy whether you meant it or not. Anyone can see that inaccuracy, and calling attention to it not only makes sure you know what your doing to be safe, but also anyone else in the world that reads it.

I don't know what wattage your vaping those .1 - .07 at but I would recommend choosing the correct batteries for the wattage. Just because it's regulated doesn't mean it's fail safe.
 

MrMeowgi

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I got a copper Vaperz Cloud XXX series stack from @MrMeowgi along with a copper Druga rda. I'm running Sanyo 2070c batteries in it, fresh off the charger. A .3 build. That's just north of 200 watts, but only a 26 amp or so current draw because of the voltage from both batteries in series. That is a seriously muscular vape. I don't always vape that high ,but I do love it and that setup just begs for it.
That mod is a beast.
 

gsmit1

Platinum Contributor
Member For 4 Years
That mod is a beast.
It IS a monster indeed. It's due for another full polish, but I cleaned up all the contact surfaces again today. I love that thing :D I can understand why it wouldn't be for everybody though. Definitely not pocket friendly and it's pretty much built for horsepower and not much else.
 

MrMeowgi

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It IS a monster indeed. It's due for another full polish, but I cleaned up all the contact surfaces again today. I love that thing :D I can understand why it wouldn't be for everybody though. Definitely not pocket friendly and it's pretty much built for horsepower and not much else.
It was too much mod for me. Glad it found a great home and posh.
 

MyMagicMist

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Member For 5 Years
I’m thinking of picking up a mech mod. But having control over the wattage and output on the same RDA you put on a mech is a nice luxury. Also being able to play with temp control on the respective coils that accept it is nice to.

Do not pick up a mech until you learn ohm's law and understand how it relates to vaping safely, it is clear you are not ready for that.

I know that I am not good doing numbers. That aside I use a mech mod.

I also know a few other things along with knowing my limitation of not being good at numbers.

1. I do need to at least have a bit of comprehension of Ohm's Law. I do grasp the basics of it.

2. I do need to know where to look and ask for help. There are calculators and guides online & if I still feel a bit lost I can come here or a few other vaping forums. I know too that in visiting these I need to be humble & grateful.

3. People love helping people and most people are generally good as a natural default state.

4. It only takes one person being a jerk to ruin a good thing.

5. Any choice I have is ultimately my own to make regardless of any advice/opinion I get from others. What this means is yes I can respect the opinion of others yet not exactly worship that/those opinion/s. It is up to me to discern my own path taking in a lot of opinions. That doesn't mean I need disrespect the views from others. It simply means I weigh those views against my own, against other views and so on.

6. There is a way to state diplomatically that is what you do. "Thanks for the advice everyone. Think I'll choose my path along the lines of, ... . Thanks again."

7. We all read stuff differently. So, we all got to allow ourselves and others room to grow, to have misunderstanding. Recently, I had a bad feeling over something I read from @JuicyLucy & @SteveS45 . What I thought I read was very disturbing to me, I felt a little betrayed, a big helping of self doubt as well. It turns out what I thought I read was just that, ... what I thought ... but it was not what I had actually read. I went back and reread what I thought I'd read and found out I was just in a bad mood that day. I could've easily read that both of them told me I am the greatest and I still would've taken it wrong. What I thought was not in what they wrote.

So yeah, I can agree that what @JuicyLucy wrote above was not harsh, disrespectful in any way. I would tell you the same thing, possibly a bit more gruffly. My point being I'd tell you the same advice she did.
 

Ryan_AlanUSN10

Member For 2 Years
I know that I am not good doing numbers. That aside I use a mech mod.

I also know a few other things along with knowing my limitation of not being good at numbers.

1. I do need to at least have a bit of comprehension of Ohm's Law. I do grasp the basics of it.

2. I do need to know where to look and ask for help. There are calculators and guides online & if I still feel a bit lost I can come here or a few other vaping forums. I know too that in visiting these I need to be humble & grateful.

3. People love helping people and most people are generally good as a natural default state.

4. It only takes one person being a jerk to ruin a good thing.

5. Any choice I have is ultimately my own to make regardless of any advice/opinion I get from others. What this means is yes I can respect the opinion of others yet not exactly worship that/those opinion/s. It is up to me to discern my own path taking in a lot of opinions. That doesn't mean I need disrespect the views from others. It simply means I weigh those views against my own, against other views and so on.

6. There is a way to state diplomatically that is what you do. "Thanks for the advice everyone. Think I'll choose my path along the lines of, ... . Thanks again."

7. We all read stuff differently. So, we all got to allow ourselves and others room to grow, to have misunderstanding. Recently, I had a bad feeling over something I read from @JuicyLucy & @SteveS45 . What I thought I read was very disturbing to me, I felt a little betrayed, a big helping of self doubt as well. It turns out what I thought I read was just that, ... what I thought ... but it was not what I had actually read. I went back and reread what I thought I'd read and found out I was just in a bad mood that day. I could've easily read that both of them told me I am the greatest and I still would've taken it wrong. What I thought was not in what they wrote.

So yeah, I can agree that what @JuicyLucy wrote above was not harsh, disrespectful in any way. I would tell you the same thing, possibly a bit more gruffly. My point being I'd tell you the same advice she did.
I hope you enjoyed typing all that because I respectfully don’t give a shit and that was a waist of your time. Congrats
 

MyMagicMist

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The main difference between the Mech World and The Regulated Realm is you won't blow your FACE OFF with too Low a Build for your batteries. Not just how it ramps up or battery longevity. There is that WTF happened moment when it gives an error or waking up in the ER.

I respect your view in using regulated device. I'm happy you've found what suits you, enjoy. :) I'll be happy over here trying to blow my face off with mechs. While I do have some deserved fear of mechs, I also have respect for them too. If one exercises some good sense and respect mechs do not need to be big frightening monsters. That aside if you feel more confident, safer, better using regulated devices more power to you. :) Not everyone likes the same thing/s.
 

Ryan_AlanUSN10

Member For 2 Years
I respect your view in using regulated device. I'm happy you've found what suits you, enjoy. :) I'll be happy over here trying to blow my face off with mechs. While I do have some deserved fear of mechs, I also have respect for them too. If one exercises some good sense and respect mechs do not need to be big frightening monsters. That aside if you feel more confident, safer, better using regulated devices more power to you. :) Not everyone likes the same thing/s.

Bro. Seriously. Nobody cares. Keep your shit talk to yourself. Nobody here is afraid of a Fkn mech. If you think you’re cool because you prefer them and you can get onto steam engine then you’re a fucking joke.
 

Ryan_AlanUSN10

Member For 2 Years
I know that I am not good doing numbers.
**** not good WITH numbers

Jesus Christ man you’re opening statement out of a 7 paragraph essay making yourself sound stupid was grammatically incorrect. Yet you call out one auto corrected word out of 20 words... Jesus Christ get a life... YOU’RE 47 YEARS OLD!!!
 

Carambrda

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I’m finding most of you mech users use a higher resistance coil to obtain longer battery life.
With a single battery mech running with a single Samsung 30T or single Sanyo 2070C battery the short battery life that typically is associated with low resistance coil builds is these days no longer as short as it used to be, depending on how you want to define "low". I stick to a dual coil build at .11 ohms on all my single battery tube mechs (Ni80 aliens 27g/36g, 2.5mm ID at 4.5 wraps, or 5 wraps if that's how you prefer to call it), and, even if using a single Sony VTC5A or single Samsung 20S, the battery life I get from that is still acceptable to me... for how I vape it lasts about 4 hours or so on average, not half bad IMO considering the fact a fully charged 20S is giving me something like maybe close to 124 watts on the first pull. It isn't the only way I like to vape, but nevertheless it's what I have been using on a daily basis for the past 2+ years. These alien coils offer truly great flavor performance, in fact they are identical to the ones you can buy from famous coil builder m.terk here: https://mterk.net/collections/coils/products/5-pack?variant=20527923101760
Mike just knows how to build them like 150 times faster than me, which I'd say is pretty fast so obviously a lot of people are using them, but they just don't post here very often... they usually never do I guess because they all have better things to do, like, enjoying vaping and other important technical stuff... :giggle:
 

nadalama

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All this, within 40 posts. You move quickly, don't you?
 

MyMagicMist

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I respectfully don’t give a shit

Bro. Seriously. Nobody cares.

Nobody here is afraid of a Fkn mech. If you think you’re cool because you prefer them and you can get onto steam engine then you’re a fucking joke.


Jesus Christ get a life... YOU’RE 47 YEARS OLD!!!

1. If you didn't give a shit, why all the vitriol? Seems to me if you did not care you would not respond to anything I post. Well, seems you are responding so I can only figure you care. Took time to get to know my age. Gee, if you didn't care I would think that wouldn't matter. So much evident here you do care.

2. I don't figure anyone is direly afraid of mechs. Some might be a bit fearful of trying to use them though. Notice I'm not saying using mechs are for everyone. Not saying using regulated device is for everyone either. What I am saying is what I said, use some good sense and responsibility using a mech and you will likely not have many issues.

3. I sincerely am not concerned about being or not being "cool". I've missed the boat going either way a long time ago. I responded to your post regarding what @JuicyLucy said because it seemed you took issue. @JuicyLucy is a friend, I was trying to help. Also it is never wasteful to admit being human, to own to making mistakes. Not wasteful to be kind either. That was my intention in that first post. Not apologizing for that. I'm human and contrary to what wool you're trying to pull over our eyes, I do give a shit.
 

SteveS45

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I respect your view in using regulated device. I'm happy you've found what suits you, enjoy. :) I'll be happy over here trying to blow my face off with mechs. While I do have some deserved fear of mechs, I also have respect for them too. If one exercises some good sense and respect mechs do not need to be big frightening monsters. That aside if you feel more confident, safer, better using regulated devices more power to you. :) Not everyone likes the same thing/s.

I never said Mechs were frightening, all I did was say dumbasses are more likely to blow their faces off with them. I prefer regulated because I do not want the added work to make sure my build is safe.
 

MyMagicMist

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I never said Mechs were frightening, all I did was say dumbasses are more likely to blow their faces off with them. I prefer regulated because I do not want the added work to make sure my build is safe.

Yes, I understood that from you, apologies if it seemed i was using a broad brush. That was not done intentionally.
 

Synphul

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Member For 4 Years
ok, sorry but I’m curious as to what most of you guys are running it terms of wattage on your coils. So many factors come into play here.

A. Mech mod or regulated

Mech mods aren’t controlled wattage you’re basically gunna get whatever your battery is putting out to the coils and I’ve seen some coils get pushed well into the 100+ watt range

Would those same coils be pushed at 100+ in a regulated mod?


B. Material

SS, Ni80, Kanthol to name the common ones. Do either have different tolerance on heat or wattage. I’ve noticed it seems Ni80 can run higher or hotter than SS. (While maintaining flavor that is)

C. Resistance (ohms)

Single coil .2-.35ish
Dual coil .08-.15 (common)

Obviously higher wattage on lower resistance is what you’re going to need to pump out clouds and smoke.


D. Wraps

Triple core, quad core, frame staple, Mohawk, single coil, width, diameter, a million and one possibilities out there with all the advanced coil wraps people are throwing down these days, are some used specifically for higher wattage and temperatures?

Let’s get down to a scenario

Regulated mod, RDA, .10 framed staple Alien coils Ni80 taste good from 70-95 watts but can they be pushed higher? How hard would you push them? Does it affect the coil life and safety? All valid questions I’m working with. I’ll admit being new to very low ohm coils with advanced wraps I just don’t know how hard to push it or stay safe in the 70-90 range. If I was running say a mech mod I wouldn’t have control over it and the same coils would be forced to push out 100+?? So whats the difference mech or regulated on the coils?

I enjoy the cloud production and the advanced builds on RDAs and I guess could consider myself a cloud chaser. I’m thinking of picking up a mech mod. But having control over the wattage and output on the same RDA you put on a mech is a nice luxury. Also being able to play with temp control on the respective coils that accept it is nice to.

Anywho, sorry for the long post and newb questions just seeing what some of you more seasoned veterans use in terms of wattage or coil preference.
Just my .02 cents on a few things. Things that affect the temp of the vape vs the power etc will be wire type and wire mass. On a mech, resistance determines power drawn from the batteries. Assuming gauge and number of wraps (wire mass) are equal, ni80 will run a bit hotter than kanthal, stainless steel will run hotter than either of those. Stainless has a lower resistance by nature. That lower resistance will draw more power to the same thickness of wire and number of wraps. If you go with thicker wire, you're only dropping resistance lower and increasing power draw (in resulting wattage). Adding more wraps would help build mass and raise resistance to balance things out.

Regulated are completely different. They only run the wattage you set it at. With a mech if you were running a .2 ohm coil on a fully charged battery (4.2v), the amp draw would be 21a and the resulting wattage would effectively be 88.2w. Is that too much for that coil? Don't know, all depends on wire type, how many wraps, inner diameter of the coil. 5 wraps with a 3mm id using 20ga kanthal is .2 ohms, 4 wraps 3mm id using 24ga ss316L is also .2 ohms. Thinner wire, less wraps with the ss316L, that same 88.2w is going to make a hotter vape and may be too much for it.

You're right in that you wouldn't have control over the 'wattage' of a mech mod. It's all determined by the coil build. The size of the wire, material, how many wraps and overall resistance. It's a balancing act determined by the build.

Resistance doesn't matter as much on regulated, what regulated mods see are wattage. So whether your coil is .8 ohms, .5 ohms or .1 ohms, 50w is 50w. Same amount of power. Now applying the same level of power to different coils will result in different outcomes. 50w on a .8 coil may be scorching hot, 50w on a .1 coil may hardly produce vapor at all. The wire mass will require varying levels of power. So long as resistance is within the operating range of the mod, regulated mods will fire it - to a point. If the mod has a voltage limit like 4.2v and lacks a boost circuit, with a .5 ohm coil you'll top out around 35w because one of the mod's limitations have been met. Whereas if the mod had an upper voltage cutoff of 6.5v, you wouldn't see that .5 ohm coil maxed out until it hit 84w. Likely enough power and then some for a .5 ohm coil.

Higher wattage isn't always required for lower ohms. Goes back to the build, the wire material, wire mass etc. An example, I usually run dual coils, 6 wraps 3mm id with fused claptons, either 3x 28ga or 4x 30ga cores wrapped with 38g ni80 at around .12 ohms. Thin gauges of stainless heat up faster, I get good vapor and moderate temp of vapor at 60-65w. On the other hand I've made dual coil builds using 22ga kanthal, simple round wire builds 3mm id around 10 wraps each only came out to .3 ohms. Roughly 3x higher resistance but no vapor at 60w. Not until I hit around 95-100w of power. Resistance didn't determine the power needed to get them cooking, wire mass did. A lot more wire involved in 10 wraps of 22ga kanthal. Typically bigger more complex coils with more wire mass will result in lower resistance, but it's the wire mass that needs the higher wattage. Not the resistance necessarily.

On a regulated mod, so long as the mod is firing and no issues with resistance too low out of range etc, run the coils where they taste good. If they taste good at 70-95w, why push them higher? You can try, the vape may be hotter than you like. More power doesn't mean more flavor so not sure what you're trying to achieve. Even if it tastes similar at 120w as it does at 85w, all you're doing is using more battery and getting a hotter vape. Pretty sure if it was hot enough to damage the coil, make it burn through etc you'd already be uncomfortable with the heat of the vape coming off it. Or running a very thin high resistance coil more suited to mtl vaping in too large of an atomizer with more airflow than what's optimal. In that case if you were using like a dead rabbit rda with a 30 or 32ga wire like say a 30ga kanthal 6 wraps, 3mm id at 2 ohms and tried to push it at 80w, you'd probably get a singed taste off the little burnt spot in the cotton before the wire popped in half. That's a ridiculously small thin coil to run in a bigger open airflow rda. Balance is key and matching things up. Coil, chamber size, airflow etc.

If you want temp control, you'll need to use a tc wire type like stainless or pure nickel (ni200), or titanium and run it on a regulated mod within the limits of the mod's capabilities. If you want a mech setup, you'll have to match the coil build to the type of wire mass and resistance that determines the wattage outcome that will give you the flavor you're looking for. While also making sure the amp draw is safe for the batteries you're using. Ie, don't run a .1 coil or set of dual coils on a single battery mech using a sony vtc6 15/20a battery since .1 will be trying to pull 42a and trying to produce 176w. Instead try a .16 or .17 build drawing 24-26a off something like a samsung 20s rated at 30a and producing 104w. Much more reasonable.
 

Carambrda

Platinum Contributor
ECF Refugee
Member For 5 Years
since .1 will be trying to pull 42a and trying to produce 176w.
A much more accurate guesstimate would be only about 38A and 144W if using a single Samsung 30T battery fully charged. That's because the moment you pull 40A from the 30T, due to the voltage sag of the battery the volts shoot down instantly from 4.2V all the way to just about 3.75V.

81883a53-47ff-4ba2-97f4-bfd63fabf3f5-jpeg.743063


 

MrMeowgi

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Just my .02 cents on a few things. Things that affect the temp of the vape vs the power etc will be wire type and wire mass. On a mech, resistance determines power drawn from the batteries. Assuming gauge and number of wraps (wire mass) are equal, ni80 will run a bit hotter than kanthal, stainless steel will run hotter than either of those. Stainless has a lower resistance by nature. That lower resistance will draw more power to the same thickness of wire and number of wraps. If you go with thicker wire, you're only dropping resistance lower and increasing power draw (in resulting wattage). Adding more wraps would help build mass and raise resistance to balance things out.

Regulated are completely different. They only run the wattage you set it at. With a mech if you were running a .2 ohm coil on a fully charged battery (4.2v), the amp draw would be 21a and the resulting wattage would effectively be 88.2w. Is that too much for that coil? Don't know, all depends on wire type, how many wraps, inner diameter of the coil. 5 wraps with a 3mm id using 20ga kanthal is .2 ohms, 4 wraps 3mm id using 24ga ss316L is also .2 ohms. Thinner wire, less wraps with the ss316L, that same 88.2w is going to make a hotter vape and may be too much for it.

You're right in that you wouldn't have control over the 'wattage' of a mech mod. It's all determined by the coil build. The size of the wire, material, how many wraps and overall resistance. It's a balancing act determined by the build.

Resistance doesn't matter as much on regulated, what regulated mods see are wattage. So whether your coil is .8 ohms, .5 ohms or .1 ohms, 50w is 50w. Same amount of power. Now applying the same level of power to different coils will result in different outcomes. 50w on a .8 coil may be scorching hot, 50w on a .1 coil may hardly produce vapor at all. The wire mass will require varying levels of power. So long as resistance is within the operating range of the mod, regulated mods will fire it - to a point. If the mod has a voltage limit like 4.2v and lacks a boost circuit, with a .5 ohm coil you'll top out around 35w because one of the mod's limitations have been met. Whereas if the mod had an upper voltage cutoff of 6.5v, you wouldn't see that .5 ohm coil maxed out until it hit 84w. Likely enough power and then some for a .5 ohm coil.

Higher wattage isn't always required for lower ohms. Goes back to the build, the wire material, wire mass etc. An example, I usually run dual coils, 6 wraps 3mm id with fused claptons, either 3x 28ga or 4x 30ga cores wrapped with 38g ni80 at around .12 ohms. Thin gauges of stainless heat up faster, I get good vapor and moderate temp of vapor at 60-65w. On the other hand I've made dual coil builds using 22ga kanthal, simple round wire builds 3mm id around 10 wraps each only came out to .3 ohms. Roughly 3x higher resistance but no vapor at 60w. Not until I hit around 95-100w of power. Resistance didn't determine the power needed to get them cooking, wire mass did. A lot more wire involved in 10 wraps of 22ga kanthal. Typically bigger more complex coils with more wire mass will result in lower resistance, but it's the wire mass that needs the higher wattage. Not the resistance necessarily.

On a regulated mod, so long as the mod is firing and no issues with resistance too low out of range etc, run the coils where they taste good. If they taste good at 70-95w, why push them higher? You can try, the vape may be hotter than you like. More power doesn't mean more flavor so not sure what you're trying to achieve. Even if it tastes similar at 120w as it does at 85w, all you're doing is using more battery and getting a hotter vape. Pretty sure if it was hot enough to damage the coil, make it burn through etc you'd already be uncomfortable with the heat of the vape coming off it. Or running a very thin high resistance coil more suited to mtl vaping in too large of an atomizer with more airflow than what's optimal. In that case if you were using like a dead rabbit rda with a 30 or 32ga wire like say a 30ga kanthal 6 wraps, 3mm id at 2 ohms and tried to push it at 80w, you'd probably get a singed taste off the little burnt spot in the cotton before the wire popped in half. That's a ridiculously small thin coil to run in a bigger open airflow rda. Balance is key and matching things up. Coil, chamber size, airflow etc.

If you want temp control, you'll need to use a tc wire type like stainless or pure nickel (ni200), or titanium and run it on a regulated mod within the limits of the mod's capabilities. If you want a mech setup, you'll have to match the coil build to the type of wire mass and resistance that determines the wattage outcome that will give you the flavor you're looking for. While also making sure the amp draw is safe for the batteries you're using. Ie, don't run a .1 coil or set of dual coils on a single battery mech using a sony vtc6 15/20a battery since .1 will be trying to pull 42a and trying to produce 176w. Instead try a .16 or .17 build drawing 24-26a off something like a samsung 20s rated at 30a and producing 104w. Much more reasonable.
All this knowledge. Need to sticky this to the top of something.
 

Ryan_AlanUSN10

Member For 2 Years
Just my .02 cents on a few things. Things that affect the temp of the vape vs the power etc will be wire type and wire mass. On a mech, resistance determines power drawn from the batteries. Assuming gauge and number of wraps (wire mass) are equal, ni80 will run a bit hotter than kanthal, stainless steel will run hotter than either of those. Stainless has a lower resistance by nature. That lower resistance will draw more power to the same thickness of wire and number of wraps. If you go with thicker wire, you're only dropping resistance lower and increasing power draw (in resulting wattage). Adding more wraps would help build mass and raise resistance to balance things out.

Regulated are completely different. They only run the wattage you set it at. With a mech if you were running a .2 ohm coil on a fully charged battery (4.2v), the amp draw would be 21a and the resulting wattage would effectively be 88.2w. Is that too much for that coil? Don't know, all depends on wire type, how many wraps, inner diameter of the coil. 5 wraps with a 3mm id using 20ga kanthal is .2 ohms, 4 wraps 3mm id using 24ga ss316L is also .2 ohms. Thinner wire, less wraps with the ss316L, that same 88.2w is going to make a hotter vape and may be too much for it.

You're right in that you wouldn't have control over the 'wattage' of a mech mod. It's all determined by the coil build. The size of the wire, material, how many wraps and overall resistance. It's a balancing act determined by the build.

Resistance doesn't matter as much on regulated, what regulated mods see are wattage. So whether your coil is .8 ohms, .5 ohms or .1 ohms, 50w is 50w. Same amount of power. Now applying the same level of power to different coils will result in different outcomes. 50w on a .8 coil may be scorching hot, 50w on a .1 coil may hardly produce vapor at all. The wire mass will require varying levels of power. So long as resistance is within the operating range of the mod, regulated mods will fire it - to a point. If the mod has a voltage limit like 4.2v and lacks a boost circuit, with a .5 ohm coil you'll top out around 35w because one of the mod's limitations have been met. Whereas if the mod had an upper voltage cutoff of 6.5v, you wouldn't see that .5 ohm coil maxed out until it hit 84w. Likely enough power and then some for a .5 ohm coil.

Higher wattage isn't always required for lower ohms. Goes back to the build, the wire material, wire mass etc. An example, I usually run dual coils, 6 wraps 3mm id with fused claptons, either 3x 28ga or 4x 30ga cores wrapped with 38g ni80 at around .12 ohms. Thin gauges of stainless heat up faster, I get good vapor and moderate temp of vapor at 60-65w. On the other hand I've made dual coil builds using 22ga kanthal, simple round wire builds 3mm id around 10 wraps each only came out to .3 ohms. Roughly 3x higher resistance but no vapor at 60w. Not until I hit around 95-100w of power. Resistance didn't determine the power needed to get them cooking, wire mass did. A lot more wire involved in 10 wraps of 22ga kanthal. Typically bigger more complex coils with more wire mass will result in lower resistance, but it's the wire mass that needs the higher wattage. Not the resistance necessarily.

On a regulated mod, so long as the mod is firing and no issues with resistance too low out of range etc, run the coils where they taste good. If they taste good at 70-95w, why push them higher? You can try, the vape may be hotter than you like. More power doesn't mean more flavor so not sure what you're trying to achieve. Even if it tastes similar at 120w as it does at 85w, all you're doing is using more battery and getting a hotter vape. Pretty sure if it was hot enough to damage the coil, make it burn through etc you'd already be uncomfortable with the heat of the vape coming off it. Or running a very thin high resistance coil more suited to mtl vaping in too large of an atomizer with more airflow than what's optimal. In that case if you were using like a dead rabbit rda with a 30 or 32ga wire like say a 30ga kanthal 6 wraps, 3mm id at 2 ohms and tried to push it at 80w, you'd probably get a singed taste off the little burnt spot in the cotton before the wire popped in half. That's a ridiculously small thin coil to run in a bigger open airflow rda. Balance is key and matching things up. Coil, chamber size, airflow etc.

If you want temp control, you'll need to use a tc wire type like stainless or pure nickel (ni200), or titanium and run it on a regulated mod within the limits of the mod's capabilities. If you want a mech setup, you'll have to match the coil build to the type of wire mass and resistance that determines the wattage outcome that will give you the flavor you're looking for. While also making sure the amp draw is safe for the batteries you're using. Ie, don't run a .1 coil or set of dual coils on a single battery mech using a sony vtc6 15/20a battery since .1 will be trying to pull 42a and trying to produce 176w. Instead try a .16 or .17 build drawing 24-26a off something like a samsung 20s rated at 30a and producing 104w. Much more reasonable.


I agree man. This deserves a sticky! Best response and pretty much everything I wanted to know. Thank you for taking the time to write all that out. I’m sure it will benefit many Vapers now and in the future. Awesome.
 

VinnySem

Silver Contributor
Silver Contributor
Member For 4 Years
I am a little late to the party (as usual) ... I tend to run my regulated mods at whatever wattage puts between 3.7 & 4.2 volts to the coil. Whatever the mod is reading for resistance, I plug that into Ohm's Law on Steam Engine, and start with 4 volts and see how many watts that gives.
 

Shredtravolta

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Member For 4 Years
Unlisted Vendor
Do not pick up a mech until you learn ohm's law and understand how it relates to vaping safely, it is clear you are not ready for that




This is untrue: the batteries will produce what the coil tells the battery; if the battery isn't rated for the amount of amperage demanded by the coil, that's where you get into trouble and just may vent the battery




A vaporizer should never produce smoke, only vapor. If smoke is produced it means it's catching on fire.




Start here - you need to learn ohm's law before preceding any further: Mooch's blog | E-Cigarette Forumhttps://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/blogs/mooch.256958/
^This and there’s nothing else to really talk about
 

gsmit1

Platinum Contributor
Member For 4 Years
Just my .02 cents on a few things. Things that affect the temp of the vape vs the power etc will be wire type and wire mass. On a mech, resistance determines power drawn from the batteries. Assuming gauge and number of wraps (wire mass) are equal, ni80 will run a bit hotter than kanthal, stainless steel will run hotter than either of those. Stainless has a lower resistance by nature. That lower resistance will draw more power to the same thickness of wire and number of wraps. If you go with thicker wire, you're only dropping resistance lower and increasing power draw (in resulting wattage). Adding more wraps would help build mass and raise resistance to balance things out.

Regulated are completely different. They only run the wattage you set it at. With a mech if you were running a .2 ohm coil on a fully charged battery (4.2v), the amp draw would be 21a and the resulting wattage would effectively be 88.2w. Is that too much for that coil? Don't know, all depends on wire type, how many wraps, inner diameter of the coil. 5 wraps with a 3mm id using 20ga kanthal is .2 ohms, 4 wraps 3mm id using 24ga ss316L is also .2 ohms. Thinner wire, less wraps with the ss316L, that same 88.2w is going to make a hotter vape and may be too much for it.

You're right in that you wouldn't have control over the 'wattage' of a mech mod. It's all determined by the coil build. The size of the wire, material, how many wraps and overall resistance. It's a balancing act determined by the build.

Resistance doesn't matter as much on regulated, what regulated mods see are wattage. So whether your coil is .8 ohms, .5 ohms or .1 ohms, 50w is 50w. Same amount of power. Now applying the same level of power to different coils will result in different outcomes. 50w on a .8 coil may be scorching hot, 50w on a .1 coil may hardly produce vapor at all. The wire mass will require varying levels of power. So long as resistance is within the operating range of the mod, regulated mods will fire it - to a point. If the mod has a voltage limit like 4.2v and lacks a boost circuit, with a .5 ohm coil you'll top out around 35w because one of the mod's limitations have been met. Whereas if the mod had an upper voltage cutoff of 6.5v, you wouldn't see that .5 ohm coil maxed out until it hit 84w. Likely enough power and then some for a .5 ohm coil.

Higher wattage isn't always required for lower ohms. Goes back to the build, the wire material, wire mass etc. An example, I usually run dual coils, 6 wraps 3mm id with fused claptons, either 3x 28ga or 4x 30ga cores wrapped with 38g ni80 at around .12 ohms. Thin gauges of stainless heat up faster, I get good vapor and moderate temp of vapor at 60-65w. On the other hand I've made dual coil builds using 22ga kanthal, simple round wire builds 3mm id around 10 wraps each only came out to .3 ohms. Roughly 3x higher resistance but no vapor at 60w. Not until I hit around 95-100w of power. Resistance didn't determine the power needed to get them cooking, wire mass did. A lot more wire involved in 10 wraps of 22ga kanthal. Typically bigger more complex coils with more wire mass will result in lower resistance, but it's the wire mass that needs the higher wattage. Not the resistance necessarily.

On a regulated mod, so long as the mod is firing and no issues with resistance too low out of range etc, run the coils where they taste good. If they taste good at 70-95w, why push them higher? You can try, the vape may be hotter than you like. More power doesn't mean more flavor so not sure what you're trying to achieve. Even if it tastes similar at 120w as it does at 85w, all you're doing is using more battery and getting a hotter vape. Pretty sure if it was hot enough to damage the coil, make it burn through etc you'd already be uncomfortable with the heat of the vape coming off it. Or running a very thin high resistance coil more suited to mtl vaping in too large of an atomizer with more airflow than what's optimal. In that case if you were using like a dead rabbit rda with a 30 or 32ga wire like say a 30ga kanthal 6 wraps, 3mm id at 2 ohms and tried to push it at 80w, you'd probably get a singed taste off the little burnt spot in the cotton before the wire popped in half. That's a ridiculously small thin coil to run in a bigger open airflow rda. Balance is key and matching things up. Coil, chamber size, airflow etc.

If you want temp control, you'll need to use a tc wire type like stainless or pure nickel (ni200), or titanium and run it on a regulated mod within the limits of the mod's capabilities. If you want a mech setup, you'll have to match the coil build to the type of wire mass and resistance that determines the wattage outcome that will give you the flavor you're looking for. While also making sure the amp draw is safe for the batteries you're using. Ie, don't run a .1 coil or set of dual coils on a single battery mech using a sony vtc6 15/20a battery since .1 will be trying to pull 42a and trying to produce 176w. Instead try a .16 or .17 build drawing 24-26a off something like a samsung 20s rated at 30a and producing 104w. Much more reasonable.
I just wanted to take a quick moment to point out that I think that was 3 cents. :D
 

nadalama

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I am a little late to the party (as usual) ... I tend to run my regulated mods at whatever wattage puts between 3.7 & 4.2 volts to the coil. Whatever the mod is reading for resistance, I plug that into Ohm's Law on Steam Engine, and start with 4 volts and see how many watts that gives.

This makes a lot of sense to me.
 

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