I got one I'd trade ya if you had a green
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Billet Box Appreciation Thread
- Thread starter forza
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My panels arrived and they fit perfect...he sent me two buttons instead of one...The panels are twice as thick as the stock panels which actually feels really nice in my hands..Not a con for me at all with them...The drip tip im not realky liking as it adds a bit to height and just doesnt sit well on the box...But overall im really happy with the items.
I f I didn't have a 3f order still in Shenzen a few days short of 2 months, I'd order some right now.
Panels and button look awesome man! Really nice. Flush nut might really help with the DT?
Where do i find a flush nut?
This drip tip ive been using with it doesnt look to bad.
Not sure for an SXK. I have some for BBV, I just assume they make them for SXK. Basically just not as tall so the top of the nut sits flush with the top of the mod.
Lucky dog you. That's the only one I have left to get that I want. TmntbbWell I will have a green in about 5 daysBut I can't see it ever going anywhere
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I kidded myself and said Fawkes was it for me. I will now just except reality and say I have no clue when it will stop
I grabbed one this morning don’t worry I won’t tell anyone else I swear
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I haven't found any that have been confirmed to fit the SXK,but a couple minutes with a dremel or a few more with a file,and you can make the stock nut a flush fit.I've done all of mine,it looks so much better when the drip tip sits flat on the mod.
Dremel from top or bottom?
From the top,i guess i probably should've specified that haha.If you look at the stock nut,it has a sort of dome curved shape to it.I just took them out of the mod,lightly grabbed them with pliers on the bottom,down below the threads,then start slowly grinding the top down to flat,take a bit off,then check it in the mod,and continue until you get it down flush.I was nervous the first one i did,i thought it would take the grooves off that you unscrew it with,but if you stop right when it gets to a flush fit,there is still plenty of groove left in the nut for a coin to grab into.
What color were you able to get?
It seemed like either they had more stock this morning or things went slower. It took almost 3 minutes before everything was gone. The Kurbis were the last to go.
Yeah I saw them go slowly over 6 mins this time before all gone !
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Rpg
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Nice!
Nice! I'm so happy I got one. Always seemed to be one of the hardest to get, for me anyway.Scored a Green this morning.
Paua TMNBB
In Escribe, go to the preheat setting in your profile for wattage mode and set it to 2 or 3. It defaults to the lowest setting which takes it down, I assume a certain percentage, from your set wattage for a half second or so. I have mine set to 3 and it goes from I think 19 watts and then quickly down to 17 where I have it set.
BTW, a straight power profile will have a lot less settings available in it than a TC profile. Make sure you're in the one for power or wattage or whatever it calls it. I can't remember now. It's obvious when you see it, but it's in small letters in an editable box at the top of the profile. I named mine VW.
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To promote some conversation on the subject I'm voting the Sony/Murata VTC6 3000mah battery as the best choice for the Billet Box. Rated continuous output is 20 amps. The DNA60 is rated for a max pulse output of 22 amps. Mooch has chosen the VTC6 as the best 3000mah battery pending testing of recharge cycles.
Personally I'm getting substantially more life than the Molicell P26A or the Samsung 25S, both rated at 2500mah. (If my feeble brain remembers correctly.)
What are your thoughts?
Personally I'm getting substantially more life than the Molicell P26A or the Samsung 25S, both rated at 2500mah. (If my feeble brain remembers correctly.)
What are your thoughts?
I agree the VTC6 is about perfect and would be better than the 25Rs I'm using. I unmarried a pair of 25Rs because I had plenty of everything else and they weren't best for my other regulated setups. They work fine, but I have to think the VTC6 would be better.
I have a pair of HG2s that I'm sure would be awesome too. I kinda reserved those for lower power regulated setups, but I now wish I would have used them in my 2 BBs first instead of the 25Rs. The trouble is, I don't really have any other use for the 25Rs so they stay where they are for now.
I hope that made at least some sense. It's getting past my bedtime.
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BTW, yes, the P26A and 25R are both rated at 2500mah, but the P26A is 25 amps and the 25R is 20. The HG2s are 3000mah and 20 amps like the VTC6. If my feeble brain is remembering correctly.
For the DNA60 and the way most people will use it, giving up some amperage for some capacity makes all the sense in the world. Which is why I now wish I would have used the HG2s.
I have numerous P26As and VTC5As I use for regulated setups. Oh yeah. I also have 2 pairs of VTC5Ds.
For the DNA60 and the way most people will use it, giving up some amperage for some capacity makes all the sense in the world. Which is why I now wish I would have used the HG2s.
I have numerous P26As and VTC5As I use for regulated setups. Oh yeah. I also have 2 pairs of VTC5Ds.
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I use VTC6's, HG2's, and 30Q's in my billets. The way I have mine set up I only draw 4-5 amps. I have rewrapped all of them, so idk which is which, but I don't notice any difference in them. I did have one 25R in the mix, and was able to find it due to how long it lasted even being rewrapped.
I use Molicel P26As in pretty much everything. Battery life isn't a concern for me since I vape MTL in my Billet and use a variety of devices through each day.
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Substantial...hmm
Not sure if Mooch is wrong here, but I would assume he knows a thing or two, cause he's seen a thing or two
Substantial...hmm
View attachment 162210
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Not sure if Mooch is wrong here, but I would assume he knows a thing or two, cause he's seen a thing or two
I'm definitely not arguing with Mooch. His measurements are bible. It was his comparison of the VTC6, HG2 and 30Q that got me to purchase some VTC6. I didn't do any measurements other than what I experienced while vaping using a coil reading 0.48 ohms in the VapeSnail. The temp is set at 425, the preheat set at 60W for 0.6 sec and the power set at 35W. This puts me right around the 10A load, but with a 20A pulse for the preheat.
With the P26A I went through one tank while golfing and had to replace the battery shortly after I returned home. With the VTC6 I went through the round of golf and refilled the tank. I'm now about half way through the second tank and it looks like I'll be able to finish it off before changing the battery. That's my explanation of substantial.
Perhaps a better way to phrase it would be 'very noticeable'. Typically I don't notice a difference between the P26A and a Samsung 25S when using them. The only reason that I have the 25S is because I grabbed a bunch on sale for $1.99 ea. They're not on any of Mooch's recommended lists but he has tested them and they weren't all that bad in the tests.
The P26A's that I have are only a few months old and not used that much. In fairness the VTC6's are brand new.
I'm definitely not arguing with Mooch. His measurements are bible. It was his comparison of the VTC6, HG2 and 30Q that got me to purchase some VTC6. I didn't do any measurements other than what I experienced while vaping using a coil reading 0.48 ohms in the VapeSnail. The temp is set at 425, the preheat set at 60W for 0.6 sec and the power set at 35W. This puts me right around the 10A load, but with a 20A pulse for the preheat.
With the P26A I went through one tank while golfing and had to replace the battery shortly after I returned home. With the VTC6 I went through the round of golf and refilled the tank. I'm now about half way through the second tank and it looks like I'll be able to finish it off before changing the battery. That's my explanation of substantial.
Perhaps a better way to phrase it would be 'very noticeable'. Typically I don't notice a difference between the P26A and a Samsung 25S when using them. The only reason that I have the 25S is because I grabbed a bunch on sale for $1.99 ea. They're not on any of Mooch's recommended lists but he has tested them and they weren't all that bad in the tests.
The P26A's that I have are only a few months old and not used that much. In fairness the VTC6's are brand new.
Not saying your observation is wrong, but Battery Jesus’ tests say which is better.
I felt the same way with the P26As vs the VTC5As... I fucking swear the 5As lasted longer in my Dani Mini and Dvarw DL... but how I vaped and amount of ml consumed is different every time... there is no actual way to 100% say I took the same amount of draws, duration etc...
Which only leaves metrics that are in a controlled setting... Mooch’s tests
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I'll assume it's me at this point, but I'm not immediately thrilled with the Vapesnail. Despite my wicking it, I thought, how Todd said to do it, my first build leaked all over the the place almost instantly. I can't imagine anything smaller than 3mm coils ever working in this thing. Second wicking in there now with more cotton. Alot more.
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If you want to share the build process(with pics), I can give my thoughts on it.
Only rebuildable I've owned that I couldn't wick right was the original Boreas Piece of shit fucking die in a fire crap RTA from like 4 years ago... but man when it worked it was awesome, but yeah fuck that piece of shit only working for me like 2% of the time lol
Only rebuildable I've owned that I couldn't wick right was the original Boreas Piece of shit fucking die in a fire crap RTA from like 4 years ago... but man when it worked it was awesome, but yeah fuck that piece of shit only working for me like 2% of the time lol
I appreciate that Don. Maybe at some point. I have a couple ideas, but I'm just not up to equipment drama right now. Todd said he had some issues with his authentic at first too.
My first build leaked like an open dam too.I cut my tails the way Todd showed in his review,but i thinned them out a bit,and it dumped everywhere.My second rewick,i still cut the tails the way he showed,but didn't thin them out,and it hasn't given me anymore issues.
I couldn't agree more on the Boreas. When It is right I just love it, but 2% of the time being right would be awfully generous for me
I’m a 2mm kind in those lil boro deals.
To me if it’s leaking it’s more than likely bypassing the wick channel (duh), this would prompt me to stuff wick into said channel then, this would be easier using a 2mm coil since you won’t have a thick ass cotton tail... plus capillary function wouldn’t be choked.
And go from there.
If wanting to use at higher wattage do the same with 2.5mm, cut the tails past the outside of the deck 1mm, stuff down in the channels, juice and go about your day.
That’s just my take on it...
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With the vape snail I just cut the corners like mark did and stuffed the tip in first (as always 
) then push the rest of the wicking down. But I use rayon with everything. That may be the difference. But 3mm coil fit close but works well. Hope you get it figured out
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) then push the rest of the wicking down. But I use rayon with everything. That may be the difference. But 3mm coil fit close but works well. Hope you get it figured outSent from my LM-Q610(FGN) using Tapatalk
I did not look at any of the reviews. I did use a 3mm Coil. I've rewicked it once now because it's all I've been vaping on and I changed the juice. Never even a hint of a leak.
I do not thin my cotton at all. No angle cuts. I cut it straight at a length that is even with the outside corner of the tank gasket. I make sure the end of the cotton is pointing down into the juice wells and just meets the bottom. It fills the juice wells but it is not tight.
I do not use any of the airflow reducers, everything is wide open. I can chain vape on it until I'm dizzy and not get any reduction in the vapor. This thing is working so well for me that I ordered a second one. In fact I just received it in the mail today.
It's being caused by my using the smallest deck insert. It creates a straw like suction that 's pulling juice through or past the wicking.
I know this because I re wicked it, filled it up and set it on a piece of paper towel. No leaking for an hour. I picked it up and pulled on the top of the tank and it started gurgling and then coming out of the bottom. The small amount of air being allowed through the airflow is being compensated for by the only other place it can be. Through the wicking ports.
I bet this is the problem that @Mykreign was having with the Xeta.
I also bet that everybody who tells me they're having no problem with theirs is using a bigger insert.
I know this because I re wicked it, filled it up and set it on a piece of paper towel. No leaking for an hour. I picked it up and pulled on the top of the tank and it started gurgling and then coming out of the bottom. The small amount of air being allowed through the airflow is being compensated for by the only other place it can be. Through the wicking ports.
I bet this is the problem that @Mykreign was having with the Xeta.
I also bet that everybody who tells me they're having no problem with theirs is using a bigger insert.
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Yeah screw the xeta haha. You could be correct, but I can use the same build and even less airflow in the vapeshell and it won't cause slurpage. So I stick with them.
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It sounds like the upper airflow needs to be matched to the lower. Is the upper airflow restrictor larger than the lower one? I haven't looked at the inserts that come with the VapeSnail because I don't use them.