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Best RTA currently on the market???

TheWestPole

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The Nautilus mini and full size perform the same with the BVC coils . They are very very good but after much time with both the Kayfun and Nautilus , the Kayfun if built correctly still beats them for flavor. I haven't found a replaceable coil tank yet that can beat a re buildable if it's built right.

Word. You can build better than you can buy.
 

Uber300

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Many will disagree, but I LOVE my Taifun GS. Hands down the best flavour from any tank I have ever used, its kinda tricky, you have to wick it with .5 to 1mm wick or cotton. I love cotton, but wick seems to work a lot better for the GS. inside diameter of the coil is 1/16, 9 wrap nano coil. .7 ohms. A very close second is the Aqua. I love this RTA. When I first got it, and its an authentic, it leaked liked crazy. Well, I was topping off from the top, thereby breaking the vacuum in the tank. Well, after A FUCK TON of trial and error(I know I could have just looked this up on YouTube, but I love to solve problems on my own first) I started bottom feeding before the tank went dry. Problem solved! The one BIG downside to the Aqua is the highly touted thumbscrews, before I came up with my own system of putting dual coils on this set-up. it literally drove me fucking nuts. I used it as a single coil tank for the longest, and it performed great, got a lot of vapor from one coil. But, I am never happy when I know something can do more and provide better, thicker, tastier clouds. So, I figured that out. The Taifun and Aqua I own are authentic. i bought, what I believe to be, HCigar clones of each one. I think the Aqua might be an Infinite clone Well, each are perfect replicas, when I received them, they didn't even need to be washed, I did wash them, but they were very clean. The machining on both is perfect, both perform as well as the authentic versions. I do not regret buying the authentic versions, I can sell them both for as much as I paid. I think I am about to do so, I want a Peacemaker. Sorry for the too long remark!
 

TheWestPole

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"Many will disagree, but I LOVE my Taifun GS. Hands down the best flavour from any tank I have ever used, its kinda tricky, you have to wick it with .5 to 1mm wick or cotton. I love cotton, but wick seems to work a lot better for the GS. inside diameter of the coil is 1/16, 9 wrap nano coil. .7 ohms."

Thanks, Uber. Did you also try bigger coils with the Taifun GS, like mini coil size ~1.5-2.0mm ID? That would allow for more wick material. I'm thinking I would start with a coil ID equivalent to the size of the wick holes in the tank. That seems to make sense regarding juice flow. I'll try cotton and rayon first. If that has problems I'll move to silica wick, keeping your experience in mind.
 

Uber300

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Yeah, I have tried a lot of sizes for my GS, but the tank holes are about 1.5mm. At first I had a lot of problems with the two tank holes blocking any juice from wicking at all, a lot of dry hits. Now I just stick one strand of the wick in each hole, it wicks perfectly that way, not a dry hit since. One the wick becomes saturated the half mm wick (yes it's that small) files the hole. When I first did this, I was afraid it would drown the coil, but not one gurgle since!
 

MKPM

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I just finished my first tank with my new Orchid clone. I built it dual coil (duh) with a total resistance of .9 ohms with cotton wicking. I am vaping with it atop my IPV2 set at 30watts/5.7volts.
This is what the entire Kayfun family SHOULD have been to begin with!!!!!!! Buy many of these.
The build, despite the miniscule posts and hex screws, is straight forward and simple. You will use much less cotton than with the FillInTheBlankFuns, with the wick just engaging the tops of the four juice channels. My only advice is to hit this thing slowly as opposed to the inclination to "power hit" the Kayfuns to compensate for the tight draw. The dual air inlet holes allow for a "not too airy" draw....not unlike on a Kraken.
 
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Got my Orchid v2 (bottom fill) from Tobeco yesterday. This is an amazing atty. I built a dual coil, 28 gauge- 8 wraps each coming in at .8 ohms.

Really no need to go lower resistance on this.

Got the perfect build first try. Four posts and it's a very easy build. However, this is a thirsty atomizer. Flavor and vapor are superior! Airflow is big, so if you like a tighter draw, this might not be the one for you.

This thing really chucks the clouds. All my other tanks are kicked to the curb right now.IMG_0940.JPG
 

MKPM

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This ^ :)
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Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
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CurlyxCracker

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I've been looking at the orchid but it lacks adjustable airflow. I like thing pretty much wide open, like very airy, plume veil wide open everywhere is doing me right atm, but it's nice to have options.
 

moecat

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Smoktech RSBT is the perfect RTA for a beginning coil builder.

Expecting a Fogger v4.1 in the mail early next week to give dual coil building a shot.
 

TheWestPole

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Yeah, I have tried a lot of sizes for my GS, but the tank holes are about 1.5mm. At first I had a lot of problems with the two tank holes blocking any juice from wicking at all, a lot of dry hits. Now I just stick one strand of the wick in each hole, it wicks perfectly that way, not a dry hit since. One the wick becomes saturated the half mm wick (yes it's that small) files the hole. When I first did this, I was afraid it would drown the coil, but not one gurgle since!

Uber, I received my Taifun GS, built a 1.4 ohm microcoil, and wicked it with cotton, then rayon. Yes, it seems like a very thin wick works best. I got enough good hits and great flavor density out of it to see how superior it can be. But it's frustrating me with problems. Haven't got through a full tank without dry hits or flooding and a lot of fiddling. I want to try your .5mm silica wick method. Where can I get it? 1mm is the smallest I can find. Thanks in advance...
 

TheWestPole

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Yeah, I have tried a lot of sizes for my GS, but the tank holes are about 1.5mm. At first I had a lot of problems with the two tank holes blocking any juice from wicking at all, a lot of dry hits. Now I just stick one strand of the wick in each hole, it wicks perfectly that way, not a dry hit since. One the wick becomes saturated the half mm wick (yes it's that small) files the hole. When I first did this, I was afraid it would drown the coil, but not one gurgle since!

Uber, also are you putting just a single strand through the coil and tank holes, or does the coil get a few more short ones that don't extend up to the tank?
 

Uber300

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No matter what size silica wick you use, you are going to need to unwind it (by this I mean get it down to it's individual strands). I take two strands of wick, double it over a piece of kanthal wire and thread it through my coil, then I take one strand and feed it through one hole on the cap and do this once more for the other hole on the cap. At this point, my tank is full, I lower the strands into the ejuice. I let it sit upside down for about 5 minutes, this allows the wick to become saturated. I have found by doing this it allows no juice to flood the the coil chamber. Sorry if this sounds confusing, but I can think of no other way to describe it. Good Luck! :)
 

TheWestPole

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No matter what size silica wick you use, you are going to need to unwind it (by this I mean get it down to it's individual strands). I take two strands of wick, double it over a piece of kanthal wire and thread it through my coil, then I take one strand and feed it through one hole on the cap and do this once more for the other hole on the cap. At this point, my tank is full, I lower the strands into the ejuice. I let it sit upside down for about 5 minutes, this allows the wick to become saturated. I have found by doing this it allows no juice to flood the the coil chamber. Sorry if this sounds confusing, but I can think of no other way to describe it. Good Luck! :)

Thanks, Uber. Okay, I get the idea. Will give it a try. Cheers!
 

WimpysRevenge

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So, what's up with this Squape R clone?
I'm not going to pre order until there is some reviews and it all checks out.

If the thunder dont get you then the lightning will
 

Lefty

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As far as the Taifun GS goes by far the least of a PITA and best results for me have come from a simple micro coil and cotton with stainless mesh feeder wicks. I have the air tube removed so the air hole is level with the deck so I do a bit of a zig-zag pattern with the cotton tails on the deck to each side of the coil so as to have plenty of cotton to absorb juice. On the 400 stainless mesh I have have found that a width of 1 inch is perfect for rolling to a tube that fits the holes. You can use whatever length you like so that they stick into the tank to suit you. The current set in mine is 3/4 inch long made from leftover mesh and they work fine. No need to torch it as it never touches the coil. I have no leaking and no dry hits and great vapor and flavor. Rewicking is easy as you only need to replace the cotton. Just rinse the mesh and use again. Just re-insert them and slide them down till they bottom out. Only time you'll need to change them is if you spin them by turning the center section in relation to the base and bending them.
 

TheWestPole

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As far as the Taifun GS goes by far the least of a PITA and best results for me have come from a simple micro coil and cotton with stainless mesh feeder wicks. I have the air tube removed so the air hole is level with the deck so I do a bit of a zig-zag pattern with the cotton tails on the deck to each side of the coil so as to have plenty of cotton to absorb juice. On the 400 stainless mesh I have have found that a width of 1 inch is perfect for rolling to a tube that fits the holes. You can use whatever length you like so that they stick into the tank to suit you. The current set in mine is 3/4 inch long made from leftover mesh and they work fine. No need to torch it as it never touches the coil. I have no leaking and no dry hits and great vapor and flavor. Rewicking is easy as you only need to replace the cotton. Just rinse the mesh and use again. Just re-insert them and slide them down till they bottom out. Only time you'll need to change them is if you spin them by turning the center section in relation to the base and bending them.

Good clear advise, Lefty. Thanks. I'm moving on to mesh+cotton having had no satisfactory result with just cotton, rayon or silica wicks. Ordered the mesh last week.

Question: Do you push the mesh down to make contact with the cotton? If so, do you make contact right where the cotton comes out of the coil or 90 degrees off down at the bottom of the deck?
 

Lefty

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I push the mesh wicks right down into the cotton - essentially till they hit the base with whatever cotton wants to be in between - directly inline with the coil and wick.
I happen to use Japanese organic but it has worked with organic cotton balls and rayon as well. Any form of having to thread the wick through the cap is a pain. Sliding the mesh into place after coiling and wicking is easy as can be. I've seen some people trim the end at an angle in a genesis style but for me it's just more raw end to pick up cotton. Just leaving the ends square works fine.
 
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TheWestPole

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I push the mesh wicks right down into the cotton - essentially till they hit the base with whatever cotton wants to be in between - directly inline with the coil and wick.
I happen to use Japanese organic but it has worked with organic cotton balls and rayon as well. Any form of having to thread the wick through the cap is a pain. Sliding the mesh into place after coiling and wicking is easy as can be. I've seen some people trim the end at an angle in a genesis style but for me it's just more raw end to pick up cotton. Just leaving the ends square works fine.

Got it. Just what I needed to hear. Props to you, Lefty!
 

WimpysRevenge

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Ok, I need the best upgrade available for my russian 510 pin. Thing sits just slightly to far in when the second pin inside(deck screw) is all the way tight. Basically the entire center pin/post screw design ruins this RTA for me.
I have the deck screw all the way tight to keep it from moving and shorting, but this causes my 510 pin to sit just slightly to deep...even a single turn out and my510 causes leaking onto my Rdna. Beyond annoying.
 

TheWestPole

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I push the mesh wicks right down into the cotton - essentially till they hit the base with whatever cotton wants to be in between - directly inline with the coil and wick.
I happen to use Japanese organic but it has worked with organic cotton balls and rayon as well. Any form of having to thread the wick through the cap is a pain. Sliding the mesh into place after coiling and wicking is easy as can be. I've seen some people trim the end at an angle in a genesis style but for me it's just more raw end to pick up cotton. Just leaving the ends square works fine.

Okay, got the mesh. Now the build is working almost perfectly. The rayon bends down and touches the deck, and the mesh rolls are about 3/4" long and almost touching the deck. Seems like the coil could use a bit more juice though, and I'm wondering whether I rolled the mesh a bit tight. Do you pre-measure how much mesh to roll up?
 

Lefty

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I use 1 inch wide for the rolling width and whatever suits for height. I used 3/4" this time because I had a 1 and 1/2" by 1" scrap handy. Rolled it on the 1" side and then cut it in half. There should be an opening through the center of the feeder wicks. I happen to use a .9mm allen wrench to slide through it but a fair sized needle or straightened paper clip would suit. It's pretty hard to roll them closed without crimping an end or something. Just make sure you can pass something small through it.
There should be enough wick to at least reach the walls in my experience. Since I have removed the air flow pin I basically cover the deck to either side of the coil. I just push the mesh down as far as it freely wants to go and leave it at that. Depending on your juice viscosity you might need to raise them slightly as that seems to give a little more flow. For my 50/50 juice just pushing them down works.
You may need to experiment a little to find the best setup for you. The nice part is that it's easier to do now.
 

TheWestPole

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I use 1 inch wide for the rolling width and whatever suits for height. I used 3/4" this time because I had a 1 and 1/2" by 1" scrap handy. Rolled it on the 1" side and then cut it in half. There should be an opening through the center of the feeder wicks. I happen to use a .9mm allen wrench to slide through it but a fair sized needle or straightened paper clip would suit. It's pretty hard to roll them closed without crimping an end or something. Just make sure you can pass something small through it.
There should be enough wick to at least reach the walls in my experience. Since I have removed the air flow pin I basically cover the deck to either side of the coil. I just push the mesh down as far as it freely wants to go and leave it at that. Depending on your juice viscosity you might need to raise them slightly as that seems to give a little more flow. For my 50/50 juice just pushing them down works.
You may need to experiment a little to find the best setup for you. The nice part is that it's easier to do now.

Oh yeah, much much easier to tweak the setup now. :D Thanks for the description.

Gonna rework the mesh and wick a bit tomorrow, get the juice flowing a little better. It's tasting great though, great flavor density, and not a single gurgle. I also have the air flow tube and insulator pulled out. The draw remains a bit too tight for me though and I'll want to drill out the side hole. Lung hit nut. That done, I can see this becoming a favorite.
 

Lefty

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Glad I could help. It's an awkward sized atty. I mostly use it on a Hammer or sometimes on a Sticker style base. But it's taste and performance once you have it tweaked is just excellent.
 

Lefty

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Ok, I need the best upgrade available for my russian 510 pin. Thing sits just slightly to far in when the second pin inside(deck screw) is all the way tight. Basically the entire center pin/post screw design ruins this RTA for me.
I have the deck screw all the way tight to keep it from moving and shorting, but this causes my 510 pin to sit just slightly to deep...even a single turn out and my510 causes leaking onto my Rdna. Beyond annoying.
FatDaddyVapes sells a replacement Russian 91% center post for $5.99. I haven't used it myself so I can't say if it will fix your issue. It does claim "Precision CNC'ed for guaranteed fitment" YMMV.
 

WimpysRevenge

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Just ordered the replacement center post and parts kit from fatdaddy. We shall see. I will likely get a squape reloaded clone if the reviews sound good.

If the thunder dont get you then the lightning will
 

Lefty

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Yeah, I'll wait for the reviews as well. I have the Ehpro clone of the original and had to get the big hammer out to get it to perform.
 

TheWestPole

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Just ordered the replacement center post and parts kit from fatdaddy. We shall see. I will likely get a squape reloaded clone if the reviews sound good.

If the thunder dont get you then the lightning will

I got the FatDaddy rebuild kit for Kayfun Lite/Russian 91 a couple of weeks ago to replace the center post on a Kayfun Lite clone (from Fasttech). The 510 pin insulator wasn't a match and the center pin was about .5 mm smaller diameter. Also the air hole in the center pin was smaller than the one it replaced.

BUT
, it all worked anyway, using the old 510 insulator and the new center pin and post block. The draw was a bit tighter though.
 

CurlyxCracker

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Idk if this qualifies for what you're looking for but I really am liking the big dripper. Flavor is great, holds 3-5 ml, produces some great vapor.
 

UncleRJ

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I use the Kayfun and Russian with quartz tank kits. I dry burn and re wick every two tanks. And if a coil goes with a full tank of liquid, I just pour the liquid out, replace the coil and wick and put the liquid back in. Not a big deal.
 

WimpysRevenge

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I don't mind the wicking or the bottom fill tank(kinda). My gripe is with the center post/510 pin design, which is flawed imo.
Hopefully the fat daddy overhaul clears things up.
 

Anus Braun

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Word. You can build better than you can buy.
This is NOT what I would've wanted to find, but it's well machined, tightly assembled, and be a good match fer my HexOhm...like a dumbass..I was gonna get a Sub Mini, and keep onnit...I gotta stay OUT the damn vape shops...needed summore nic-liq. (where's my little tools...?)
 

Anus Braun

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I hope th' leetle Mutation X works out well for me...still gotta put together a method to thread than sili-micro-rope thru the supplied coils..might just put a dab of super glue on the very end, quickly spin the ends tight, w/ lightly oiled fingers. It'll be trimmed off, anyways.
 

chickenmonkey

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Use cotton. Much better.
 

Anus Braun

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Use cotton. Much better.
So I get, opinions of many others...I'd prefer something with a higher point of ignition, ideally,,though about using a Zippo lighter wick...copper strand down the center...plus, or minus..? Or is it exterior copper braid...?
 

chickenmonkey

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So I get, opinions of many others...I'd prefer something with a higher point of ignition, ideally,,though about using a Zippo lighter wick...copper stand down the center...plus, or minus..? Or is it exterior copper braid...?
I don't know if copper is safe to vape. I have used silica in the beginning. Swiftly moving to cotton. Tried rayon too. If the cotton is well saturated it won't ignite. It is a very good wicking material. Japanese is great. If silica is all you have it will work in a pinch.
 

Anus Braun

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I don't know if copper is safe to vape. I have used silica in the beginning. Swiftly moving to cotton. Tried rayon too. If the cotton is well saturated it won't ignite. It is a very good wicking material. Japanese is great. If silica is all you have it will work in a pinch.
SOMEWHERE, I have sterile cotton, I know I have GAUZE (!)...and I have q-tips, easily found...ten steps away...as far as point of ignition, I'm thinking worst-case, running her dry..
 

chickenmonkey

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I just used any old cotton balls, before I got the Japanese pads. Don't use the gauze or q tips. I would probably just use the silica until I got to store tomorrow.
 

Anus Braun

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I just used any old cotton balls, before I got the Japanese pads. Don't use the gauze or q tips. I would probably just use the silica until I got to store tomorrow.
I still gots to locate my small pliers, or use the tick tweezers, on my keychain. Damn, cat just pinched one off....where's that mod...?
 
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chickenmonkey

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Don't forget to show us your build and check your ohms
 

Anus Braun

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Don't forget to show us your build and check your ohms
Coils already built, came with the RDA, I own a Fluke DMM, and have an in-line meter, threads between the RDA/tank, and the mod. I no stranger to Ohm's Law, just not how it applies to 'mods'. And I have the Steam Engine app, on the 'phone.
 

MKPM

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Bit late with this, but the SquapeR clone is pure SHIT. Great as an authie, but the build deck finish is thin and WILL short against the chimney.
 

dingo1799

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I hope th' leetle Mutation X works out well for me...still gotta put together a method to thread than sili-micro-rope thru the supplied coils..might just put a dab of super glue on the very end, quickly spin the ends tight, w/ lightly oiled fingers. It'll be trimmed off, anyways.

If that didn't work, let me know. I've got a good build for the mutation x. FYI, the glass caps they sell for them turn it into a completely different atty. makes flavor on par with a plume veil!
 

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