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Budget 15w vv/vw box build.

Mike H.

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Ive been doing some searching around and have been able to source everything needed to build what may be a pretty decent 15w vv vw box mod.

1.) Box enclosure
2.) 22g copper wire in both red and black
3.) Spring loaded 16mm Momentary firing button
4.) 15w pcb board with lcd dispay (voltage,wattage,ohms and battery)
5.) Mini usb charging port. (1000ma charging capable)
6.) 18650 battery box
7.) Spring loaded 510 connector (bolt on)
8.) 510 to ego adapter (when needed)

My expectations for this build will be to fire off simple tanks such as the kanger protanks,protank2's protank 3's, Evods, MT3,s and all the mini versions of the same series of tanks where applicable.

15 watts isnt much but it should be able to handle some 1.5 1.8 ohm coils of 32 to 28g pretty nicely with great battery life..I plan to use an Authentic Sony VTC5 as power which has a 2600mah capacity and more than enough amps to handle the small loads this box will see...Should this be successful i may switch to dual 18650s for even larger capacity...A whopping 5200mah or more of battery life.

This will be my first build of this type and still have yet to order the parts needed... This may take a little time and be a slow process but ,bare with me as this should be a fun little project for myself and maybe some others to follow along with.

.....to be continued
 
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UncleRJ

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Sounds like a good plan.

But why are you limiting yourself to 15 watts?
 

Mike H.

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Sounds like a good plan.

But why are you limiting yourself to 15 watts?

For now just cost really...also ive not ever found ive needed more than 10 watts for anything im vaping tank wise and that 10 watts was with a higher ohm coil as it had 13 wraps of 30g.( turned out to be 2.8 2.9 ohm i think)...i really like 8 watts with 1.8 ohm and less with 1.5 so decided i really dont need more than 15w at least for this first attempt...Just a start to see how i manage and im sure the future may have more power in store for me.
 

Bambua

Member For 4 Years
I could see only wanting to use 10-15 watts if you are vaping in the 3 ohm range, any higher than that it gets very hot and most likely into the danger/burned territory. If you ever go lower on the ohms (even to the 1.2-1.5 ohm range that most tanks are at now) You'll want to be able to go higher.

Something you might want to think about, there are a ton of articles out there on making a box mod using the Raptor 20A chip, it goes up to 120W but there is no reason you HAVE to do that. They run about 18-20 dollars for the PCB.
 

Mike H.

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I could see only wanting to use 10-15 watts if you are vaping in the 3 ohm range, any higher than that it gets very hot and most likely into the danger/burned territory. If you ever go lower on the ohms (even to the 1.2-1.5 ohm range that most tanks are at now) You'll want to be able to go higher.

Something you might want to think about, there are a ton of articles out there on making a box mod using the Raptor 20A chip, it goes up to 120W but there is no reason you HAVE to do that. They run about 18-20 dollars for the PCB.

I was under the impression the lower the ohms the less power needed as it creates more heat with less power?..Only using 30g kanthal more than 8 watts with my 1.8 ohm coil gets too hot for my liking.

With the higher ohm coils,because its taking more wire to build it seemed to have wanted more power to get it to heat up

My thinking is, the reason so many sub ohm attys are asking for gobs of power are the insane thick coil builds...i fired a 1.3 ohm coil i built with 30g (5 wraps spaced apart on 1.8mm i.d.).. found i only needed 6.5 watts to get the vape i did at 8 watts with 1.8 ohms..just less flavor with less wire on the wick.

I already have the mvp 20 watt but just want to build this to see if i like it and for some experience with this type of build.

Didnt want to release cost yet for this build but the entire build will cost less than 20 dollars total..$19.34 to be exact..lol..Plus battery cost if you dont already have one...With a 20 dollar raptor chip plus the other costs it would turn out more money than i paid for my mvp 20w.

Where do i find the raptor chip anyways?..Do they make a 30 watt chip as well?
 

BigNasty

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I was under the impression the lower the ohms the less power needed as it creates more heat with less power?..Only using 30g kanthal more than 8 watts with my 1.8 ohm coil gets too hot for my liking.

With the higher ohm coils,because its taking more wire to build it seemed to have wanted more power to get it to heat up

My thinking is, the reason so many sub ohm attys are asking for gobs of power are the insane thick coil builds...i fired a 1.3 ohm coil i built with 30g (5 wraps spaced apart on 1.8mm i.d.).. found i only needed 6.5 watts to get the vape i did at 8 watts with 1.8 ohms..just less flavor with less wire on the wick.

I already have the mvp 20 watt but just want to build this to see if i like it and for some experience with this type of build.

Didnt want to release cost yet for this build but the entire build will cost less than 20 dollars total..$19.34 to be exact..lol..Plus battery cost if you dont already have one...With a 20 dollar raptor chip plus the other costs it would turn out more money than i paid for my mvp 20w.

Where do i find the raptor chip anyways?..Do they make a 30 watt chip as well?
20 amp not watts. big difference.
 

Mike H.

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Just looked up the chip..seems i would need a lcd display as well and lost as to how i could regulate the power with adjustments and hook it up in general to give control of settings...I suppose another reason im starting off cheap and simple first...lol
 

Bambua

Member For 4 Years
I was just putting out another option :)

The heating up of coils vs the ohm build vs the heat of the vape and the wattage it's comfortable app and has not only a lot to do with ohms law, but also how you build the coil (size of the resistance wire, diameter of the rod the coil was wrapped around, single, dual coil) as well as the airflow in the atomizer. All of these pieces effect eachother and play off of eachother. As long as we're safe with our batteries, our current draw on them and what they are rated for, it's all about finding where we like to vape.

I've had low ohm builds that the vapor is cool because the airflow is so high, I've had 2 ohm tanks practically burn my mouth on only 10 watts they were so hot. It's about matching the build (or the cartridges you buy) to the vape you like and what your hardware can do.

I generally find with tanks I'm happy in the 1.0 to 1.2 ohm range and in drippers in the 0.5 to 0.6 range. That's one of the great things about vaping we can each find our happy spot.
 

Mike H.

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I was just putting out another option :)

The heating up of coils vs the ohm build vs the heat of the vape and the wattage it's comfortable app and has not only a lot to do with ohms law, but also how you build the coil (size of the resistance wire, diameter of the rod the coil was wrapped around, single, dual coil) as well as the airflow in the atomizer. All of these pieces effect eachother and play off of eachother. As long as we're safe with our batteries, our current draw on them and what they are rated for, it's all about finding where we like to vape.

I've had low ohm builds that the vapor is cool because the airflow is so high, I've had 2 ohm tanks practically burn my mouth on only 10 watts they were so hot. It's about matching the build (or the cartridges you buy) to the vape you like and what your hardware can do.

I generally find with tanks I'm happy in the 1.0 to 1.2 ohm range and in drippers in the 0.5 to 0.6 range. That's one of the great things about vaping we can each find our happy spot.

Agreed...i was just touching on the power aspect im choosing for now.

If i considered a thick gauge coil build i certainly understand needing more power in general regardless of ohms within a batteries limitations..Thicker gauge dual coils even more so.
 

BoomStick

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Dna 30 clone chips are available for cheap. Just another option. Screen is attached.
I don't know what atty's you're using, but if you can build a mod you can build coils. If you use clearomizer wire in a rebuildable atty you're leaving a substantial amount of performance on the table. Do what makes you happy, but your approach to this whole thing is making me scratch my head. Custom building a 15w mod? You gonna put clearomizers on top of it? Or are you using clearomizer wire in a rebuildable? I'm lost. Good luck.
 

Mike H.

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Dna 30 clone chips are available for cheap. Just another option. Screen is attached.
I don't know what atty's you're using, but if you can build a mod you can build coils. If you use clearomizer wire in a rebuildable atty you're leaving a substantial amount of performance on the table. Do what makes you happy, but your approach to this whole thing is making me scratch my head. Custom building a 15w mod? You gonna put clearomizers on top of it? Or are you using clearomizer wire in a rebuildable? I'm lost. Good luck.

Yes...Its just a little fun project for myself and will be able to use it with my kanger mini protank 2 and evods and emow tanks all of which are only 1.8 ohms...I do build my own coils using 30g kanthal.

I already have a little 14500 box i made...i have some kanger ego batteries..a 20w mvp and soon to have the new 30w mvp...Its just more of me getting my feet wet is all...I think it will be fun to use knowing i built it...Like i say less than 20 dollars for everything incliding chip...list above $19.34
 

BoomStick

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You should check out fatdaddyvapes.com. He has what a lot of folks consider the best box mod connector available. I put one on my mvp2 and it's freaking awesome. My hana clone is getting one soon.
7YMo5ki.jpg

HXdDREf.jpg
 

Mike H.

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You should check out fatdaddyvapes.com. He has what a lot of folks consider the best box mod connector available. I put one on my mvp2 and it's freaking awesome. My hana clone is getting one soon.
7YMo5ki.jpg

HXdDREf.jpg
As nice as ive heard they are im trying to keep cost down as much as possible just to see how it turns out...I have no doubt quality parts will make there way into a future project for me.

I know its only a few dollars more and better but i like to do things in stages and test them for clairification...In other words, if i change just the 510 to a fat daddy and find its a better vape or fit or look, it will make its way into another project or the upgrading of this one in time..But my main goal now, is the least amount i can spend for something that will work and be reliable but looks good at the same time...Youll see the parts when i get them...not sure i can get much lower than $19.34 with out something that totaly looks horrible..Im putting alot of trust into a cheap lcd chip to give me something decent...lol
 

BoomStick

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Just throwing ideas out there. Fasttech has two different connectors that are very similar to the fdv 510. Couple bucks each. Might be another option for future stuff. The physical and electrical connection between devices is always something I pay a lot of attention to. Soft metal and fixed pins piss me off.
 

Mike H.

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Just throwing ideas out there. Fasttech has two different connectors that are very similar to the fdv 510. Couple bucks each. Might be another option for future stuff. The physical and electrical connection between devices is always something I pay a lot of attention to. Soft metal and fixed pins piss me off.

Ok..heres my shopping cart from fasttech.

EDIT: well nevermind, it wont show it without one logging into my account...ill have to work on getting sku numbers to search.

Removed link.
 
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Mike H.

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Mike H.

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Ill be jumping off the pcb firing switch to the momentary switch and if needed file down the button on the pcb firing switch or just remove it, as i want the lcd display and the adjusting buttons to come through the front cover somewhat flush for external adjustment and viewing...button will go on the side of the box.

But thats just my imaginary plans so far ,when i get everything ill know more.
 

Mike H.

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Not sure ill use anything wider than a 17mm diameter tank..just a basic protank 2 at largest.

Ill see how one fits..if it doesnt fit well, lesson learned and ill get something different..Either the other 510s like you posted which are somewhat varitube style or get fatdaddys

Been thinking about the box i chose though and not sure ill like it or not..its a 50/50 split of the 2 halves so, installing the momentary button on the side of the box (needing to drill through both halves) seems like i couldnt make it very tight and would need to leave it somewhat loose to fit the halves together...I may need to either consider a different box or a smaller button to fit one half of the case.
 
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Jackson

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Find another box. The one you chose is quite flimsy and that split down the center style is very hard to work with when it comes to attaching your 510 connector. Plus it's not perfectly flat, it kinda bulges up at the seam..
 

Mike H.

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Find another box. The one you chose is quite flimsy and that split down the center style is very hard to work with when it comes to attaching your 510 connector. Plus it's not perfectly flat, it kinda bulges up at the seam..

Yea, thanks....ive decided already the box will be a bad decision...id love to find an mvp sized box or slightly smaller even, but havent been able to find one.
 

Mike H.

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I need to get the chip,battery holder and usb in so i can determine the right box...i want it as compact as possible..if i can go smaller than the mvp ill try to do that

Depth and width is about perfect mvp size wise...if i can go shorter length by about an inch, id be pretty happy.
 

Mike H.

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Well..maybe 1/2 inch shorter than the mpv
 

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