When I first bought the Subtank I used the 0.5 sub-ohm coils. I was able to run them around 33.0W on my Sigelei fine. I'd only have a dry hit when I changed the atomizer. Lately I haven't been able to run them even as low as 29W without burning. I am running it at 21.5W as of right now without any burning, but I'd like to be able to return to my old habits. Any suggestions?
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Kanger Subtank Plus Burning
- Thread starter epoe18
- Start date
The coil heads tend to have the cotton compressed slowing down juice capillary action in the cotton and thus a dry coil. Take a paper clip or dental pick, or a tooth pick and tease out and loosen the cotton on the juice holes, don't do it too much or your might cause the coil head to flood. I rewick mine by pulling the old cotton out after it starts to taste grungy and then roll a wick and insert it through the juice holes and pull it through. There are dozens of vids on YouTube on how to do rewicking.
I run mine at 35 watts consistently without burning using this technique.
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The Subtank isn't the best wicking thing in the world. But I'm talking about the RTA there.
As for the factory coils, they are quite simply the easiest rebuild I know of. As has already been said, strip out the old cotton and rewick (can take a lot of twisting round and round so you don't damage the coil). There's also the 'pin trick'. Get a needle/pin and poke it through in one end of the cotton and out the other right in the centre once you've fitted it in the coils housing, this allows more juice in to make it wick faster.
I've not used this method myself but many swear by it. I use the RTA only these days.
As for the factory coils, they are quite simply the easiest rebuild I know of. As has already been said, strip out the old cotton and rewick (can take a lot of twisting round and round so you don't damage the coil). There's also the 'pin trick'. Get a needle/pin and poke it through in one end of the cotton and out the other right in the centre once you've fitted it in the coils housing, this allows more juice in to make it wick faster.
I've not used this method myself but many swear by it. I use the RTA only these days.
Look up RiP trippers occ rebuild. He suggests to just cut the cotton close on the outside of the holes and to fluff it up a little bit instead of poking it inside. I use my rba mostly but when needs be I use the occ heads and don't have any problems using this method.
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Okay. I know this thread is old. But My Kanger Sub Pro 7ml is burning like crazy. I washed out the tank put a new .5 replacement coil in, primed the coil in and out, juice is filled to the top - BURN. I opened it up today thinking I screwed the coil on too hard - BURN. I'm at 20w at .63ohms, still a burn but not as much. I now fluffed the cotton with a safety pin (man, that cotton was recessed and really hard) and managed to use that same pin to poke a hole in one of them - BURN. it's now reading .59 and still a burn. I did see one bubble come up from one side. What's the deal??? Only 20w???? I was running it at 25-30w for the last few weeks. Running it on my Sigelei Fuchai. Using the brown LG 3000mAh and yes, they are married.. Battery is down only 1 bar but I haven't yet let them drain before charging again. Did I fry the coil for good? Still getting burnt taste at 17w. It's my favorite juice! 70/30.
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I'm having the same problem with my Subox Nano with a.5 Clamtpon coil replacement. Using yellow LGDBHE4. Haven't fluffed the cotton on that one yet. I'm using this and my Kanger Subtank Pro as my home device. I'm tempted to put my Tobeco on my Sigelei Spark now. I only want 2 tanks running now though. Ugh! I had my 7ml Kanger on the Spark yesterday and didn't have a problem. Bad coils?
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No response? Fine. I'll just run a 2mm drill bit through the damned things. I may have to wind up doing a build on the Kanger Sub. The Kanger Subox Nano is one of my favorite kits. I wonder if I should get occ replacements in stead of Clapton. I'll just get some one on line now. I need other coils replacements anyway.