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VV and Sub Ohms?

jumper

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Hi... Is there a 18350 tube mod that can do sub ohms? I've been searching on the net and can't find what I want. The newest Vamo will go down to .5 ohms, but only uses a 18650 battery.
 

jumper

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Never mind about this question... I pretty much know the answer, but was hoping someone knew something I didn't :)
 

NitroBex

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sub ohming and 18350 generally don't go in the same statement... To push the limits a little lower you can look at things like DNA's or SX350 chip mods... VV and sub ohming is a thing... A lot of the "Dumb" wattage boxes like the dream box or the beast are for all intents and purposes VV devices as you tune in the voltage.
 

jumper

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Hello Nitro. A pleasure to talk to you because I've seen you on the shows. I understand that most people don't use 18350's, but I like the small size and have enough high drain batteries that I can change as often as I like. But I know the 650's would last longer. Do the 650's make a difference in the vape/TH? If so, I might buy me some 650's next month. I don't really care about VV really. Just curious. Thanks for the reply.
 

Sully

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EFEST Purple 18350's are 10.5amp. I have some and have run .45ohm on them with no issues. I wouldn't recommend it though. So any 18350 mechanical mod would work for sub-ohm but I would stay above .5 if I were you. For VW you could use a kick 2 with 18350 in mech mod. Just an option.
 

jumper

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Thanks @Sully. I'm currently using the Efest red and white high drain batteries. I'm not great with a multimeter but I tested the red and white 350's I have and they came out to be 10.5amps as well. Although on Amazon, they make no reference to the amps on the red and white 350's. I put the multimeter on ADC to check. Is that right? I'm currently using a Stingray (clone... can't afford the real thing) and don't know if it will take a kick. But the Stingray hits so hard as it is that I'm pretty happy with the way it's working.
 
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Sully

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Thanks @Sully. I'm currently using the Efest red and white high drain batteries. I'm not great with a multimeter but I tested the red and white 350's I have and they came out to be 10.5amps as well. Although on Amazon, they make no reference to the amps on the red and white 350's. I put the multimeter on ADC to check. Is that right? I'm currently using a Stingray (clone... can't afford the real thing) and don't know if it will take a kick. But the Stingray hits so hard as it is that I'm pretty happy with the way it's working.
I don't use a multimeter so not sure on that. As far as the stingray clone goes, the kick should fit no problem. Set it up for 18500 mode and add 18350 + kick.
 

jumper

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That's cool about the kick. I didn't know about the 500 mode trick. I killed a kick once trying to put it in 350 mode. I really learned something here. I really appreciate that. And about running low ohms... I haven't made a coil that is .5 ohms. Mine end up being about 7 ohms.
 

Sully

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Using safe batteries is most important aspect of sub-ohm. Do not run a .5 on those red/white efest 350's. Even the purples 350's which are rated to handle down to a .4 make me nervous. I would suggest Sony VTC4 or VTC5 18650's. If you want a .5 try leaving off a wrap on your next coil or going to a larger diameter wire with the same number of wraps.
 

jumper

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I'm using 28 gauge kanthal right now. It's pretty thick and hard to get the negative post on my Kraken to work. It takes a couple of tries. Haven't really tested ohms since I started using 28 gauge. I just ordered some 30 gauge to see if that will work better on the negative post.
 

NitroBex

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The battery size doesn't in its self effect the vape. -- What it effects is how low you can build -- For argument, lets go with the purple Efest 10.5 amp 18350's... Amps = Volts/ohms --> Amps*ohms = Volts --> Ohms = volts/amps --> Ohms = 4.2/10.5 ==> 0.40ohms is the lowest build you can safely do under the continuous amp load on the 18350 purple 10.5 amp battery. That leaves no wiggle room so most people are comfortable building around about .45 just to have a safety margin. 4.2Volts at .40 Ohms = 44.1 Watts

Now lets do that same math with a sony 30 amp... Ohms = volts/amps --> Ohms = 4.2/30 ==> 0.14 Ohms and again that is with no wiggle room, so most people are comfortable building to about a .20 to have a safety margin. 4.2Volts at .14 Ohms = 126.0 Watts

Now the above numbers assume a lossless mod and atty and battery which don't exist... more accurate drain would be around about 70-80 watts on a sony and around about 20-25 watts on the efest 18350 after loss and all.

Now on the high end there is a whole lot more math that goes into this but this is the basic safe ranges. I tested out the purple efest 18350's and they held decent (even under pulse limiting which we wont get into right now) the run time was insanely low. Like 5 minutes or less. If you are not sub ohming more power to you with the 350's I miss the ultra stealth size... If you need more power... pretty much you need to step up to an 18650, you still can get some pretty compact mods... An example being a GP Paps with a Tobh and a shorty drip tip in 18650 mode is still pretty compact.
 
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