Is temp control that big a deal?

With deals out right now for the holiday....I see a sigelei 150 w unit for 65 i think, and an out-of-stock ipv4 unit for 10 bucks cheaper, but it has temp control (100w)

Is temp control a big deal enough to wait for the ipv4 to get back in stock? Or just grab the sig 150w?

temp control is stupid. adding a traction control system to a sports car

get the sig 150 and build er up safely

I tried it, i dislike it.
People seem to think its the bees knees though.
Personally i think it sucks.

Personal Preference. I like my SXMini with Ni200 builds.

I tried it, went right back to good old Kanthal and straight VW again

Some people really like it. I've had no trouble vaping the regular way. I think if you really understand how temp control works and what it's capabilities and limitations are that it can be good. All of the vape manufacture companies are coming out with temp control so I think in the near future there will be some additional breakthroughs involving temp control.

Different strokes for different folks. I love it and won't go back to regular vw vv

Sent from my XT1030 using Tapatalk

John C said:

With deals out right now for the holiday....I see a sigelei 150 w unit for 65 i think, and an out-of-stock ipv4 unit for 10 bucks cheaper, but it has temp control (100w)

Is temp control a big deal enough to wait for the ipv4 to get back in stock? Or just grab the sig 150w?

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Good question. My own personal inner jury is still debating this. But unless you actually own a temp control device (one that actually works like it's supposed to...and that be the Evolv DNA40 chip), you'll only be relying on the opinions of others.
For myself, I believe I get a smoother vape from my DNA40 mod.
One thing I've noticed, and I think I'm correct, is that vaping TC allows a starting burst of watts that drop down when temp is reached (temp is measured by reading the ohms of the coil and comparing to baseline ohms...a room temp coil). This would stand in contrast to a pure wattage device, which would give the same watts throughout the vape.
Now, I have a clone DNA40 that jumps to TC too soon, so if you go clone on TC, you won't get the real experience of a DNA40 chip. As for other chips, I don't know about them. I only know that I trust the DNA40 chip.

John C said:

With deals out right now for the holiday....I see a sigelei 150 w unit for 65 i think, and an out-of-stock ipv4 unit for 10 bucks cheaper, but it has temp control (100w)

Is temp control a big deal enough to wait for the ipv4 to get back in stock? Or just grab the sig 150w?

Click to expand...

IPV4 available on eBay right now. I guess the YiHi chip works as well as the DNA40, from what I've heard.

I don't know too much about vapes yet, but was told temp control doesn't do much but will make your coils last a tad longer, not a lot but noticable. Could be a biased view, but who knows if it's true.

I have a new mod (no battery yet) and it has temp control but I have no idea how to use this thing judging by the videos (sxmini m).

Woodsman said:

Good question. My own personal inner jury is still debating this. But unless you actually own a temp control device (one that actually works like it's supposed to...and that be the Evolv DNA40 chip), you'll only be relying on the opinions of others.
For myself, I believe I get a smoother vape from my DNA40 mod.
One thing I've noticed, and I think I'm correct, is that vaping TC allows a starting burst of watts that drop down when temp is reached (temp is measured by reading the ohms of the coil and comparing to baseline ohms...a room temp coil). This would stand in contrast to a pure wattage device, which would give the same watts throughout the vape.
Now, I have a clone DNA40 that jumps to TC too soon, so if you go clone on TC, you won't get the real experience of a DNA40 chip. As for other chips, I don't know about them. I only know that I trust the DNA40 chip.

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This is what I'm thinking I'd like - starting out with a higher burst of power than I normally use - 80 watts, say - to fire up the coil. Then when it reaches the temp I'd normally vape at (55-60), it would hold constant there. At least that's my limited understanding of what temp limiting does...still not sure I'm ready to dump money into it, as I'm really on the fence between a Sig 150 and a temp-control device for my next big regulated box purchase. Luckily my Sig 100 is holding strong, so it's not a decision I have to make now...what I really need is something like a Smok M80 that works right so I can vape above 50 watts on my knockaround mini mod for clearo use, which is currently an iStick 50 that can't really drive my Arctic properly.

I've found that temp control can be a total letdown if your atomizer doesn't have rock-solid connections between the 510 connector and the posts. That is, if the atomizer's internal resistance drifts by a mere 0.02 or 0.03 ohms, it's enough to throw the measurements off and get dry hits.

After many months playing with different TC mods and many atomizers, I believe that's the real secret: the atty. All of them are fine for Kanthal, but a good many of them are too shoddy electrically for TC. Not to mention, they often don't deal well with the increased current required by nickel wire. I'm pretty sure a lot of people - including Busardo - have had a bad experience with TC just because they've tried it with atomizers that are good enough for kanthal, but not for TC.

And then of course, even if the atty's internal resistance is stable, it's not necessarily good for single coil builds - which is the type of build that TC really is designed for. Dual-coil is doable of course, but it's really too finicky for TC if I'm honest. That reduces the number of atomizers that are suitable for TC even more, sadly. I'm sure a lot of people have gotten a good TC build going on their atty, but ended up disappointed by the lack of heat and/or flavor, simply because the atty sucks at single coil.

However, once you've found well-built atomizers that shows a constant internal resistance, and you have a stable connection from the board all the way to the nickel wire, TC becomes surprisingly reliable, easy to build and forgiving. Then you understand how fantastic TC is.

Me, I've been extremely lucky: when my s.o. bought me my first TC setup, she chose an atomizer that was almost perfect for the job. As a result, I got to enjoy TC is its full glory from the first hit. I mean, honestly, I did my first build, fired, and fell on my knees because it was that good. Then I tried other atomizers and the problems started. But I wasn't disappointed because I knew what TC can do for me.

I can understand that, if someone starts off with the wrong experience, they'll dismiss TC as an unreliable gimmick pretty quickly - and unfortunately, it's more likely than getting a good first experience. But really, don't give up on TC too easily. Personally, I would never go back to non-TC mods. I just can't live without TC

I agree that it's personal preference.

For me I think both are okay. But I think with a temp control seems like a new trend.

Giraut, please do share which atomizer your s.o. got you!

I personally don't find temp control all that exciting but it is the new and cool thing at the moment..

I do see when some might find it useful (super sub ohm'ers / high watt vapers) but I can care less about it..

John C said:

Giraut, please do share which atomizer your s.o. got you!

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It's the Manta v2 RDA. I have *almost* nothing but good things to say about this atomizer. It seems to have been made for TC vaping.

However, I say "almost" because it does have a small flaw: after a few months of (heavy) use, the resistance starts drifting up by a few hundredths of an ohm. The reason for this is the negative post, which is held onto the deck by a pin. The pin loosens ever so slightly over time - or oxidizes or something. When that happens, you have to give the pin a good whack, and it solves the problem.

I have two Manta v2 RDA, and both do that occasionally. Other than that, they've been fantastic with all my TC mods. Both are in heavy use on my day rDNA40 and on my home Vaporflask v2, and they perform flawlessly.

The next best thing in my opinion for TC vaping is the ever popular Kanger Subtank. I have zero issues with it. But of course, it's not a RDA, it's a tank

As a bonus, here are a couple of tricks if you want to make TC more reliable and more efficient:

- Make a longer coil. If your atomizer's internal resistance is, say, 0.03 ohms and you make a 0.18 ohm nickel coil (cold), 1/7 of the total resistance is non-temperature-sensing. If you make a 0.24 ohm coil instead, only 1/9 of the total resistance is "dead" resistance. The longer the coil, the more accurate the temperature sensing function, and the less the atomizer's (and the mod's) internal resistance interferes with it.

- Don't stick the ends of your coil too close to the posts. If they're too close, the thermal inertia of the posts will prevent the ends of the coil from heating up properly. In other words, your coil will heat up more in the center than in the extremities. However, the mod reads the average resistance of the entire coil. So, for a given temperature, if your coil is too close to the posts, you'll only have the middle half of the coil actually producing vapor, meaning less vapor than you'd expect for a given power setting.

OBDave said:

This is what I'm thinking I'd like - starting out with a higher burst of power than I normally use - 80 watts, say - to fire up the coil. Then when it reaches the temp I'd normally vape at (55-60), it would hold constant there. At least that's my limited understanding of what temp limiting does...still not sure I'm ready to dump money into it, as I'm really on the fence between a Sig 150 and a temp-control device for my next big regulated box purchase. Luckily my Sig 100 is holding strong, so it's not a decision I have to make now...what I really need is something like a Smok M80 that works right so I can vape above 50 watts on my knockaround mini mod for clearo use, which is currently an iStick 50 that can't really drive my Arctic properly.

Click to expand...

Sounds like you're ready for a DNA200!!

John C said:

Giraut, please do share which atomizer your s.o. got you!

Click to expand...

I'm not Giraut, but I'd like to add my 2 cents.
I've used a Hobo V2 with dual 28awg Ni200 coils on my DNA40 mod and gotten good results. Also a Magma with single 26awg tempered Ni200 coil, also good results. And a Derringer with dual 28awg Ni200 coils, again, good results. Lately I've been in love with my DeadModz Pyrex RDA, built with 26awg tempered Ni200, single coil (I taped one air slot closed with clear packing tape).
I like the name of the Manta V2, and I like the two-screw deck. Seems a bit shallow (the juice well). I like a deep juice well (I really load my DeadModz...it's deep!)...

Woodsman said:

I'm not Giraut, but I'd like to add my 2 cents.
I've used a Hobo V2 with dual 28awg Ni200 coils on my DNA40 mod and gotten good results. Also a Magma with single 26awg tempered Ni200 coil, also good results. And a Derringer with dual 28awg Ni200 coils, again, good results. Lately I've been in love with my DeadModz Pyrex RDA, built with 26awg tempered Ni200, single coil (I taped one air slot closed with clear packing tape).
I like the name of the Manta V2, and I like the two-screw deck. Seems a bit shallow (the juice well). I like a deep juice well (I really load my DeadModz...it's deep!)...

Click to expand...

woods, so do you like single or dual coils? I have yet to vape a double...it seems logically that the dual would be more vapor, flavor etc. Do you agree?

Duals work rather well. You just have to make the coils he same length including leads if you want a good vape. They work better on yihi boards since you can use 28g and build low as .065

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John C said:

woods, so do you like single or dual coils? I have yet to vape a double...it seems logically that the dual would be more vapor, flavor etc. Do you agree?

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My single on my DeadModz gives me plenty of cloud. I haven't compared a single on one atty with a dual on the same atty, so I cannot compare.
If my memory serves me correctly, my dual coil Ni200 28awg Hobo RDA did not put out more vapor than my single coil 26awg Ni200 DeadModz Rda does.
I do know that building a dual coil deck requires thinner (higher resistance) wire since the ohm reading of one coil is divided in half when there are two coils. So, on my DeadModz, since I use only one coil, I can use 26awg Ni200 with about 12 wraps on a 3mm screwdriver to read out at 0.12 ohms. If I wanted to build a dual coil deck, I would have to use 28awg wire, and about 14 wraps on a 3mm screwdriver to achieve a similar ohms reading.

On a sidenote, regarding Ni200, one thing that non-Ni200 coils have that Ni200 coils don't, is the ability to glow red hot. That's handy for burning off impurities, and for cleaning the coil (heat it then dash it under a stream of cold water to clean all the gunk off the coil easily). I feel okay heating Ni200 to 600 degrees and then dashing it under water, but it's not quite as efficient. And, with tempered Ni200, heating the coil to 600 degrees might weaken the tempering.

Like everything else in vaping it comes down to personal preference and how you like your builds. I prefer it in some attys and in others I abhore it. Tends to really shine more for me with single coil tanks and dripper with good connections at the postholes also

Woodsman said:

Sounds like you're ready for a DNA200!!

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If it works and others like it, I'll buy one for half price 3-4 months post-release. I waited a while to get the Sig 100, and a week after I pulled the trigger the 100+ came out. Then a few weeks after that the 150...I'm okay with old tech, as long as it works. It's cheaper that way.

John C said:

With deals out right now for the holiday....I see a sigelei 150 w unit for 65 i think, and an out-of-stock ipv4 unit for 10 bucks cheaper, but it has temp control (100w)

Is temp control a big deal enough to wait for the ipv4 to get back in stock? Or just grab the sig 150w?

Click to expand...

I have some mech mods, wattage control mods, and voltage control mods. But guess which mod I use all the time? My DNA40 mod. So, I guess that answers it for me.

Woodsman said:

[...]On a sidenote, regarding Ni200, one thing that non-Ni200 coils have that Ni200 coils don't, is the ability to glow red hot.[...]

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Funny, my Ni200 coils glow red hot each time I dry-burn them.

Say, have you even tried dry-burning a nickel coil, or are you just making stuff up?

Giraut said:

Funny, my Ni200 coils glow red hot each time I dry-burn them.

Say, have you even tried using a nickel coil, or are you just making stuff up?

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Clarification: It had been awhile since I dry-burned a nickel coil. Today I dry burned my coil at 600 degrees and yes, it glowed orange in a couple of places. However, it's not like the Kanthal effect, in which the entire coil glows orange and really puts out some heat. I wouldn't want my entire nickel coil to glow like that, especially since I'm using tempered Ni200. So, when it begins to glow orange, I douse it under a stream of water to stop the glow. Some gunk remained on the coil after I was done, so I strummed the coil with the flat edge of an Xacto knife, and then finished it up with a toothbrush scrubbing.

Anyway, thanks for the fact check. You are correct...I am an idiot.

Woodsman said:

Clarification: It had been awhile since I dry-burned a nickel coil. Today I dry burned my coil at 600 degrees and yes, it glowed orange in a couple of places.[...]

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Er... If you leave TC on, it ain't gonna glow much, that's for damn sure

I dry-burn with TC off. It glows like a friggin' lightbulb - and then I dunk it in water, like you do. It clears all the gunk off in one or two dunks. Then I make it glow once more to anneal the wire. I can do that around 10 times per coil, no problem.

Giraut said:

Er... If you leave TC on, it ain't gonna glow much, that's for damn sure

I dry-burn with TC off. It glows like a friggin' lightbulb - and then I dunk it in water, like you do. It clears all the gunk off in one or two dunks. Then I make it glow once more to anneal the wire. I can do that around 10 times per coil, no problem.

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Well, okay. I won't fear the orange glow on my Ni200.
Anneal: heat (metal or glass) and allow it to cool slowly, in order to remove internal stresses and toughen it.

exodus said:

i am running mostly full mec mods ,until i can no longer get those i have no desire to try out the newest hyped up trendy item
k.i.s.s.

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I bought some mech mods after I was already into temp control, and haven't fully explored them. I plan to use them with cloud-chasing RDAs, and not very often. But I do owe it to vaping to learn mech mods.

Try out titanium for temp you can use 20g for singles and 22-24 for duals. Contact coils work great. Only thing is when working out the hot spots you cannot glow the coil bright red/white. The coil should look bluish purple when done. If its white with scales you went to far.

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Giraut said:

Funny, my Ni200 coils glow red hot each time I dry-burn them.

Say, have you even tried dry-burning a nickel coil, or are you just making stuff up?

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Okay, more on this...
I wasn't making stuff up, but I must admit my thoughts were not expressed clearly. I was, and still am, hesitant about zapping Ni200 with megawatts. Kanthal, sure, no problem. And now that I am using tempered Ni200, I am even more hesitant about zapping Ni200 with megawatts. Here is the information copied from my recent tempered Ni200 purchase:
Rebuilding with Ni200 Nickel just got a little easier. Tempered Ni200 nickel wire has the feel and consistency of Kanthal A1 wire, but almost exactly the same resistance as annealed Ni200 wire. Recommended for temperature controlled devices & chips

• Available in 26AWG, 28AWG, 30AWG & 32AWG
• Tempered for a more firm end product
• Perfect for temperature controlled devices
• MUCH easier to build with than annealed Ni200
• NOTE: Heating this wire above 750C (1382 F) will effectively anneal the wire and make soft.

I use the tempered ni200 and in my experience, dry burning it defeats the purpose of using it. You do however want to wipe it with rubbing alcohol as you straighten it to wrap your coil to help get out any remaining particulates and pool from the machining process.
To do could maintenance I swap out the wick, and pulse it with just plain pg then swap out the wick again.

The problem here is that its not actually temperature control rather it's temperature limiting. The devices out now with capacity work well as long as you have a solid connection with your coils to the 510 connection. Any performance issues you notice will most likely be the coils and their connections I hope this leads to better coils in the future for these devices .

I am speaking from experience here on this issue as I have the evic vt 60 watt and when I experienced a change in my vape I started searching out if anyone else was experiencing the same thing or similar issues.I found a guy who did and his solution was to tighten up the coils connection and he cleaned and shined up the 510 pins made sure his 510 threads were clean and it worked wonders. This was the evic vt and the mega tank it came with. He then started using the rebuildable coils with it and those seem to have better connections and consistent performance.

Woodsman said:

[...][*]NOTE: Heating this wire above 750C (1382 F) will effectively anneal the wire and make soft.

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Yeah well, to each his own. I use plain-jane nickel wire, I dry-burn-dunk it, it lasts forever and I have no trouble wicking it despite it being softer than kanthal. Maybe I'm easily pleased...

Giraut said:

Yeah well, to each his own. I use plain-jane nickel wire, I dry-burn-dunk it, it lasts forever and I have no trouble wicking it despite it being softer than kanthal. Maybe I'm easily pleased...

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I think the problem a lot of people have with the non-tempered is over wicking.I know thats mine. When I use the regular nickel and I go to rewick I almost always demolish the coil from yanking to hard. then I try and fix it and screw it up worse from playing with it.
I dunno I'm a clumsy oaf sometimes

f1r3b1rd said:

[...]When I use the regular nickel and I go to rewick I almost always demolish the coil from yanking to hard. then I try and fix it and screw it up worse from playing with it.[...]

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Here's what I do: I have a small key-sized, thickish aluminum plate with a 2.5 mm hole in it (I always do 2.5 mm coils), and slightly blunted edges around the holes. Whenever I make a wick, I try threading it through the hole first, to adjust the wick and make it go through smoothly. Then it can go in my coil.

Giraut said:

Here's what I do: I have a small key-sized, thickish aluminum plate with a 2.5 mm hole in it (I always do 2.5 mm coils), and slightly blunted edges around the holes. Whenever I make a wick, I try threading it through the hole first, to adjust the wick and make it go through smoothly. Then it can go in my coil.

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I wrap 3 or 2.5 mm depending on wire gauge and atty.
I've gotten pretty good at the "guestimation" of cotton for putting it in. I twist both ends to get it wicked, snip it, then Fluff it back up. Getting it in was never my issue, its getting it out. I don't use any type of wire exclusively, so when I go to swap wicks, I just yank it out, the tempered holds fine, the soft just rips apart.
The times that I do remember(rare since I always do maintenance late at night) I just twist both ends and slide it out. I never have problems when I remember or take my time, problem is when my brain injury acts up. Lol