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- Thread starter Crocky
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Did a Neme and a Hades. Clones from FT, as advertised by our host.
Neme, used amonia and salt, the Hades, mixed up a solution of salt, amonia and white vinegar, put it in an spray bottle, sprayed every couple hours, 3 or 4 times then let it air dry overnight. Finished both with Krylon fusion clear gloss.
Neme, used amonia and salt, the Hades, mixed up a solution of salt, amonia and white vinegar, put it in an spray bottle, sprayed every couple hours, 3 or 4 times then let it air dry overnight. Finished both with Krylon fusion clear gloss.
Those look great! I really like how the hades turned out. It has almost a splatter look to it. Good stuff.Did a Neme and a Hades. Clones from FT, as advertised by our host.
Neme, used amonia and salt, the Hades, mixed up a solution of salt, amonia and white vinegar, put it in an spray bottle, sprayed every couple hours, 3 or 4 times then let it air dry overnight. Finished both with Krylon fusion clear gloss.
DireHavok
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The krylon is it the engine enamel? I used for testing the duplicolor stuff and its not gloss but more of an opaque colorDid a Neme and a Hades. Clones from FT, as advertised by our host.
Neme, used amonia and salt, the Hades, mixed up a solution of salt, amonia and white vinegar, put it in an spray bottle, sprayed every couple hours, 3 or 4 times then let it air dry overnight. Finished both with Krylon fusion clear gloss.
Moosiecakes
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So i tried the Mustard Method with Ammonia on my Tobeco Copper Overdose This was the Result. 
I just used Ammonia on my Tobh, Came out a little darker than the mech. But sadly i didn't wait long enough before i clear coated the Overdose and it started to chip and peel. So now its sanded down again and back in the Tub..
Fun fun!
I just used Ammonia on my Tobh, Came out a little darker than the mech. But sadly i didn't wait long enough before i clear coated the Overdose and it started to chip and peel. So now its sanded down again and back in the Tub..
Fun fun!
Looking good Moosiecakes. I never clear coated mine, just used car polish. It doesn't get much use, though. I can see how it would chip. You sure did a good job.
Moosiecakes
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here's a better pic or 2..
Tried my first forced patina. Thought I followed all the instructions in video but after 2 days in solution I was only able to get a few blues out of a brass mod. Trying to figure out if i used the wrong ammonia, salt or just did not do it right. Although I am happy with the results I think I will try a copper mod. next. Here it is this was done on a KTS+ and a rocket atomizer both sanded down to brass. What do you think?
And here it is next to a Faux Patina I did.
And here it is next to a Faux Patina I did.
I used the alcohol ink mentioned in another thread on here.
Gonzi
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Tried my first forced patina. Thought I followed all the instructions in video but after 2 days in solution I was only able to get a few blues out of a brass mod. Trying to figure out if i used the wrong ammonia, salt or just did not do it right. Although I am happy with the results I think I will try a copper mod. next. Here it is this was done on a KTS+ and a rocket atomizer both sanded down to brass. What do you think?
And here it is next to a Faux Patina I did.
Brass takes a lot longuer than copper does. The best way to do it, is buy some pink salt, I just bought some himilayan pink rock salt from Kroger for like $3, and disolve it in ammonia, then add it to a spray bottle. Set up your fuming chamber with amonia and sea salt at the bottom, make sure your mod is clean and sanded, and spray your mod with the salty ammonia mixture, and lightly sprinkle more pink salt on it. You should start seing blues. By the way, when I did my brass origin, it took about 3 days to get the blues and greens I wanted.
Thanks for the tips. Will try it your way next time. It seems I misunderstood how long brass takes from what I read and video's I saw I got it in my head that it only took 24 hours or so. Still unsure of ammonia tho everyone says to use non detergent one. Bought the only one I had seen at walmart could not find any label that said non detergent so not sure if I got the right one?
Crocky
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No salt?
Moosiecakes
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Just a little Salt in the bottom of the chamber, Nothing on the mech. Mustard and Ammonia only.
robtest
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Has anyone seen a rubber band patina ??? Comes out looking like a tiger stripe ... I saw one of facebook the other day and wondered how it works. I tried wrapping some rubber bands around my crone peggy, but nothing seems to be happening... They are old rubber bands though... Fellow with a picture on FB said it only took about 9 hours... 
This was about 3 days of amonia, vinegar, Non iodizes salt on top of mod. roataing every few hours. Tried mustard on 1st layer than lightly sanded and re aplied with out mustard. I think I would have needed a copper mod for the mustard effect I wanted.
Polished and cleaned with electronic cleaner before, starting.
EDIT
This was my third attempt.I polished a vamo to the copper last winter after gutting the electronics first. Then i did it a couple times but never clear coated it. My camera doesn't do this justice. It came out just what i wanted. i would like to achieve the redish look on a copper mod sometimes but i don't use these tube mods.
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robtest
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So,,, inspired by this thread and many youtube videos, I decided to give it a go...
My first experiment with the BassProShop copper spinner blades ended with shiny silver spoons because they are only copper plated...
I saw one youtube video after seeing someones patina done with the "mccoy method" ...
This seemed to give a nice bluish tint that I was looking for...
So, I got two corks, put toothpicks in them and stuck those in the ends of the tube.
I mixed the sea salt and the ammonia together in a bottle...
I put a couple paper towels in the bottom of the plastic box, and doused them with the ammonia/salt fluid.
I put the tube in the box, then put a light coat across the top with the toothbrush, and turned until I did all 4 sides...
I came back every 2 hours, and turned to the lightest side and swabbed it with the toothbrush. just the thinnest of coasts, with a little extra on the thinnest spots.
Still deciding on how much to clear coat it... I am using a matte auto wheel clear coat... I guess it gets darker with every coat...
My first experiment with the BassProShop copper spinner blades ended with shiny silver spoons because they are only copper plated...
I saw one youtube video after seeing someones patina done with the "mccoy method" ...
This seemed to give a nice bluish tint that I was looking for...
So, I got two corks, put toothpicks in them and stuck those in the ends of the tube.
I mixed the sea salt and the ammonia together in a bottle...
I put a couple paper towels in the bottom of the plastic box, and doused them with the ammonia/salt fluid.
I put the tube in the box, then put a light coat across the top with the toothbrush, and turned until I did all 4 sides...
I came back every 2 hours, and turned to the lightest side and swabbed it with the toothbrush. just the thinnest of coasts, with a little extra on the thinnest spots.
Still deciding on how much to clear coat it... I am using a matte auto wheel clear coat... I guess it gets darker with every coat...
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If you don't clear it right off the lightblues will wear off everytime you handle it!
your amonia looks yellow that must have had detergent in it? I had read that it had to be no detergent amonia so I guess it does not matter!
edit rotate .......
your amonia looks yellow that must have had detergent in it? I had read that it had to be no detergent amonia so I guess it does not matter!
edit rotate .......
robtest
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Not sure ... Walgreen's Nice! brand ... Yellow is probably the "lemon" ...
Ingredients: Ammonium Hydroxide , Surfactant , Fragrance (contains no phosphorus.)
The letters and pegasus horse had previously been done in black fingernail polish... The ammonia/salt bath makes that easy to remove... So I was left with the copper lettering...
Ingredients: Ammonium Hydroxide , Surfactant , Fragrance (contains no phosphorus.)
The letters and pegasus horse had previously been done in black fingernail polish... The ammonia/salt bath makes that easy to remove... So I was left with the copper lettering...
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yes that is a detergant ammonia. The Surfactant is the technical name for detergent or soap. I read it wouldn't work and had to use non detergeant ammonia. I looked all over and had a hard time finding it clear. If it has color it usualy means detergant. but I had a brass mod not copper. Who knows the write up I saw could have been wrong or just what the person used that I read?
It worked so it doesnt matter. Good to know! Thanks!
Much better looking with out tilting my head...lol.......just kidding
It worked so it doesnt matter. Good to know! Thanks!
Much better looking with out tilting my head...lol.......just kidding
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zachhorner
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Did my da iron clone and copper tobh from fasttech turned out pretty nice I'd say. Used ammonia and sea salt leaving it for about 30 hours. Worried tho because I feel like I'm getting some voltage drop but haven't tested the actual voltage yet.
Gonzi
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Did my da iron clone and copper tobh from fasttech turned out pretty nice I'd say. Used ammonia and sea salt leaving it for about 30 hours. Worried tho because I feel like I'm getting some voltage drop but haven't tested the actual voltage yet.
You have to make sure you clean your threads and all the contacts really good. Fine steel wool works great and it doesn't damage the copper, unless you're very ruff with it. You can also use some amonia, that you can find in the paint section of most walmarts or hardware stores, with a cotton ball to clean stubborn spots, just make sure to mask off the clear coat first, unless you want to strip it and start over. Patina is a surface treatment on the metal, so it doesn't affect conductivity unless you have it in your contact points.
zachhorner
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Thanks will try that
Like @Gonzi said; Unless your threads or contact points are not clean. Don't worry about the threads that were screwed together when you did this though.
Did you maybe clear coat the parts seperate? ....you maybe coulda...sprayed some clear on the contacts or threads. but i suspect your ok. If your woried about it ........^^^^^^^^^^^^take some steel wool to the exposed threads and contacts^^^^^^^^^^^. Other than that there is no reason you should see a voltage drop.
The smallest point for current flow on this is the contact pin in the switch or the 510 connection. the rest is hundreds of times more surface area for current flow!
Did you maybe clear coat the parts seperate? ....you maybe coulda...sprayed some clear on the contacts or threads. but i suspect your ok. If your woried about it ........^^^^^^^^^^^^take some steel wool to the exposed threads and contacts^^^^^^^^^^^. Other than that there is no reason you should see a voltage drop.
The smallest point for current flow on this is the contact pin in the switch or the 510 connection. the rest is hundreds of times more surface area for current flow!
Gonzi
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Sorry, not ammonia to clean them, acetone
Gonzi
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yes that is a detergant ammonia. The Surfactant is the technical name for detergent or soap. I read it wouldn't work and had to use non detergeant ammonia. I looked all over and had a hard time finding it clear. If it has color it usualy means detergant. but I had a brass mod not copper. Who knows the write up I saw could have been wrong or just what the person used that I read?
It worked so it doesnt matter. Good to know! Thanks!
Much better looking with out tilting my head...lol.......just kidding
In my experience, the stronger the ammonia, the faster the patina reaction and the more vibrant the colors will be. If the ammonia is diluted too much, it tends to just turn the metal darker and take a lot longer to form blues and greens. Hell, if you buy lab grade Ammonium Hydroxide, you can even get purples.
zachhorner
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Haha ya ammonia would just cause me more grief
Gonzi
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Just to let you know, acetone, the kind in the paint department, not the diluted nail polish remover, is great for removing factory clear coats on copper mods before you force a patina on it.
zachhorner
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Good to know thanks
You would probably want an exhaust hood to work with Ammonium Hydroxide. just so know one tries using lab grade ammonia with out the proper ventelation
very cool are you finishing the Patina with a Polyurethane or?
Gonzi
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Yeah, ONLY USE OUTSIDE IN A WELL VENTILATED AREA, WEAR GLOVES, EYE PROTECTION AND A RESPIRATOR MASK! Serious stuff, not stuff you want to be messing around with unless you know what you're doing.
This is very cool I have a Holographic guitar with this process done it is neat I need to find time to do one of these great work
Gonzi
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Thanks for the compliment! I really enjoy doing this, I'm working on a few new ones right now and on a TOBH for the guy that bought that copper 4nine from me. I would love to see pics of that guitar!
If you don't have a dremmel some steel whool or a scotch bright pad on the threads will do the job. If you put vassaline on them before you did the patina it should have protected the threads.
just a suggestion;
If you have a meter it may help to check the continuity at the switch, and the top seperate, to isolate the problem area? If you don't have a meter you can make a continuity tester with a couple pc of wire and a flash light....if you know what I mean.
just a suggestion;
If you have a meter it may help to check the continuity at the switch, and the top seperate, to isolate the problem area? If you don't have a meter you can make a continuity tester with a couple pc of wire and a flash light....if you know what I mean.
Walter Ego
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Did the brass door on my REO, ammonia and sea salt. About 5 hours total, sprayed more ammonia every hour and added salt every other hour. Three coats of semi-gloss poly, still needs a light sand and recoat. I like that it has some brown tone to go with the copper vein mod.
Hey all, just joined VU but been around vaping for a while. Enjoyed looking at your patinas.
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pics
@dreadymark - How did you do the redish patina, is that mustard on a copper mod?