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Help with building titanium coils

Nailz

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So I have been using nickel for little while, but not been using a lot, as so soft, it is hard to clean and change cotton out without damaging the coil.

So today decided to pick up some titanium wire, as hear people saying it is easier to work with and tastes better.

But I can't seem to get this stuff to work, watched videos and read up before building, I am using 26 gauge spider titanium wire, doing 8 wraps around a 2.5mm rod, contact coil, 1st tried on my lemo 2, and on the evic-vt would hit temp protection straight away, so no vapor, so then tried it on my IPV4 and that came up with dry coil even though I primed the coil.

So then tried on my kanger subtank with RBA and same thing again, even tried on a dripper and still the same results.

I am setting the resistance, so really lost on what I am doing wrong, can get nickel builds to work, but can't get this titanium working, on verge of giving up and just sticking with Kanthal, but thought I would try the good people of VU before throwing in the towel.
 

Myk

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Just a shot, try not contact (that fixed the dry coil problem a little with my Ni coils on IPV4). I haven't really tried contact with Ti except for one non TC experiment that required a glowing coil and it did have hot spots that needed poked out so maybe you have intermittent in-coil-shorts that are throwing it off(?).

Also part of my problem with Ni that was fixed but still there with Ti is I liked Ni ungodly low in temperature. With Ti I like it upwards around 400°F where I don't get "dry coil" until it's actually dry, but it's still a problem if I try to get around 350° or lower. If you're at a low temperature try it around 400°.
 

Nailz

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I've read mostly contact coils are better with Ti, but will try a spaced one to see if have the same problem still.

Tried Temps from 350F to 430F and was the same way.
 

Myk

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If trying spaced doesn't fix it I'm at a loss then.
 

Mattp169

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i got a 5 wrap 26 ga 3mm SPACED rayon wicking finally working great on my subtank

make sure the center post of the base is pressed all the way in
practically over tighten your deck to the base.

You have to make sure all contacts are tight with the TC, anything that will allow the slightest variation will screw up tc on any mod

a good ni or ti build on tc can run at about 425 F at 50j and feel like a kanger occ kanthal .5 coil at about 20 watts in terms of temp. when i first tried tc i was getting temps similar to a .5 occ kanthal coil at 325F. If that is what your experiencing, then its not you, its the tank. Someone posted on another thread both the subtank and lemo2 are horribF with acurate readings for TC. I am tending to agree.

i burned up 5 occ NI200 coils in my subtank and never got 1 to work well
made about 30 Ti coils
2 have worked perfectly
both have been spaced
Never pulse it
just wrap it install
make sure every connection is super tight
check resistance. if it aint right from the get go
disassemble the deck from the base
reassemble make sure everything is tight and try again
do not bother wicking until you are sure its reading the coil properly.

I have suffered massive issues trying to get TC to work on a subtank for about 2 weeks
and am just now getting the hang of it and enjoying myself.
it took getting an NI200 coil for my maganus and seeing how TC really worked, to realize everything my subtank did was wrong

getting dry coil on setting below 400f is not uncommon

I am finding that cooler vape on kanthal is probably for many in the 375-400f range Im using the subtank right now on my D2 at 425F and its about the same temp to me as a .5 occ kanthal coil at 20W
 

claviger

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Sounds like a device compatibility issue. What resistance did your Ti coil come in at?

I have never had the issues you are describing using Ti. Wrap, wick, and go all I've ever had to do.

Sadly I have no experience with any of the mods you have listed. On my Snow Wolf the only odd behaviour using Ti has been that sometimes with a brand new coil it will fall into Power mode instead of TC, but just reset the coil resistance and it fixes it.
 

Nailz

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Sounds like a device compatibility issue. What resistance did your Ti coil come in at?

3 different toppers and 2 different devices, so not sure it would be a compatibility issue, coil was around 0.35ohms.
 

claviger

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Should work at .35, maybe try one lower just to be thurough would be my suggestion. Try a 5 wrap with your 26 gauge, should drop you around .18. I have used this exact build in the kanger RBA and it rips pretty good compared to the occ ni 200 coils.
 

Myk

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do not bother wicking until you are sure its reading the coil properly.

That's how I've started doing it. 3.5"=.35Ω with my 26ga, if it doesn't read that before wicking something is wrong. If the device is reading a little low heating it up so it locks in at .35Ω can be enough. If it's reading a little high colder room temperature can fix it. If it's further out than those two fixes are reasonable I'd start looking for shorts or checking connections.
 

Nailz

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Did a 5/6 spaced wrap this morning, when 1st tried it, it worked, so was all relieved, thinking it actually worked at last, went out and mowed the yard, came back and it was shot, kept hitting temp protection on evic, so have ripped it out and put kanthal back on again.

May try again in the future, but stick with kanthal for now.
 

CurlyxCracker

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To make a contact ti coil you have to QUICKLY pulse it to work out hotspots like kanthal, with a mod that will fire a coil that low in wattage mode or a mech. It'll turn blue/green, that's ok. If it turns white you've gone to far, toss the coil. I promise it's simple. Wick it up and it will be good to go in tc mode
 

Nailz

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To make a contact ti coil you have to QUICKLY pulse it to work out hotspots like kanthal, with a mod that will fire a coil that low in wattage mode or a mech. It'll turn blue/green, that's ok. If it turns white you've gone to far, toss the coil. I promise it's simple. Wick it up and it will be good to go in tc mode

Yea did that to start with and it wasn't good to go, on evic hits temp protection all the time and on the IPV4 it always says no liquid, dry coil.
 

AmandaD

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Yea did that to start with and it wasn't good to go, on evic hits temp protection all the time and on the IPV4 it always says no liquid, dry coil.

Turn it to kanthal mode. I put mine at 16-20 watts, then pulse it!
 

Nailz

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Turn it to kanthal mode. I put mine at 16-20 watts, then pulse it!

I did that, but only at 10 watts, and coil looked good, was blue and slight glow from the inside of coil, built just like I do a kanthal coil.
 

AmandaD

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I did that, but only at 10 watts, and coil looked good, was blue and slight glow from the inside of coil, built just like I do a kanthal coil.

Did you try turning the temp up to 500-550 after everything was ready to go? If you get the no liquid message, generally your temp is too low.
 

Nailz

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Did you try turning the temp up to 500-550 after everything was ready to go? If you get the no liquid message, generally your temp is too low.

No I only went as high as 450, as that is what I use when in nickel mode.
 

AmandaD

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No I only went as high as 450, as that is what I use when in nickel mode.

I run my Ti much higher- usually around 525. If you ever get the no liquid message you have to turn up the temp!
 

Mattp169

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@AmandaD i have to slightly disagree... I know you know a lot abot TC and coil building...more then me.

I am finding that the dry coil on Ni200 or Ti above 400F is possibly due to the mod reading the resistance incorrectly, and find, disassembling the deck and making sure everything is clean the reassembling, making sure everything is screwed down extra tight, fixes the issue.

After using my own builds, several bad ni200 kanger coils and a couple of ni200 coils in my maganus. I find it is easily possible to vape at 400F and even lower and never get dry coil through an entire tank. but much below 375F and I run into the dry coil issue.

I am not the only one who has had serious issues iwth multiple tanks including the subtank, reading resistance wrong, and having wild variation sin teh read while using the tank @Emberwilde noted this in another thread, and this is about the 3rd or 4 th thread on VU including my own detailing thi sexact same issue occurring on a subtank

So while I know amandad, and kwtony have alot of success using their subtanks in TC mode and have their way of dealing with it when there are issues. My research is showing, not all tanks work as well with TC. Tc requires a very constant resistance read, and minor minor things can throw off teh reading the tank is giving to the board and that can cause serious issues. I am currently looking at picking up a different tank/rta such as a chutuluh, or something similar. So i can see for myself if @Emberwilde's statement that that rta and a few others work much better with TC with fewer issues due to the design of the positive and negative connections.

I do not fully understand what @Emberwilde stated in the other thread, but I get the basic's...so if you read this and need to correct my statements feel free.
 

AmandaD

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Matt, I hear what you're saying. However the OP has used three different tanks and a dripper. Most commonly the issue is user error- unless you're using a Kayfun V4 with the wonky spring! I'm not saying there are no funky connections, but I see a lot of issues that are mainly a lack of experience with TC. Contrary perhaps to popular opinion TC is not a good option for beginners (not that the OP is a beginner). It's imperative to lock in the resistance properly, you have to have a good solid build, and you have to turn up the temp for that particular build. Wicking obviously affects juice flow and therefore also temp. That said there have certainly been bad TC boxes.
 

Mattp169

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Matt, I hear what you're saying. However the OP has used three different tanks and a dripper. Most commonly the issue is user error- unless you're using a Kayfun V4 with the wonky spring! I'm not saying there are no funky connections, but I see a lot of issues that are mainly a lack of experience with TC. Contrary perhaps to popular opinion TC is not a good option for beginners (not that the OP is a beginner). It's imperative to lock in the resistance properly, you have to have a good solid build, and you have to turn up the temp for that particular build. Wicking obviously affects juice flow and therefore also temp. That said there have certainly been bad TC boxes.
I agree with you on that 100%
I just do not agree turning up the temp fixes some things. I fear it can actually cover up a bad build, or a wonky connection. So yea if your getting dry coil at 250-350f, yes tuning it up helps alot, cuz that is extremely cool. BUt if your getting dry coil at say 450 or higher, turning it up may work, but may mpt address what is really causing the dry coil.

I find that 375-400F is about the temp a kanger stock occ kanthal .5 runs at 20w.
Now when I originally started on TC, I found that 300F was what felt the same to me a .5 kanthal kanger occ at 20w. That was because the connection was wonky on my subtank and the coil was wonky as well. Once someone let me try their TC build and see what it felt like at low temps (300ish) all the way up to 572F I realized What I had been experiencing was all wrong.

TC is not for beginners thats for damn sure. Its a weird thing. It requires absolute perfection from the coil, the tank/rda/rta/etc, the mod, and the user

Any variance in the mods ability to read the coils resistance while firing it, or anything causing the resistance to change in the slightest, throws off all the calculations the board is doing and can cause DRY COIL, too hot of a hit, too cool of a hit etc.

I suggest sticking with it.

-do anything you can to make sure connections between coil,deck and mod are perfect.
-try higher temps,, when I first tried TC i couldnt fire a coil above 425F with out a burnt/too hot taste. NOw 475F is my friend hell even 500+ is nice for some flavors
- finally find someone who has TC working for them and can hit theirs at 500+ and ask to try it. See if their mod/coil behaves the way you think it should work, or like me, your premise of how TC should feel is incorrect.

I admit I am a noob. @AmadaD knows alot more then me,she has helpe dme out IMMESELY. but I have just gone through similar problems myself for the past 2 weeks and felt maybe my experience and what I found could help others
 

Nailz

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I am far from a noob when it comes to building, been vaping over 2 and half years, but admit I am a noob when it comes to temp control though, I don't like being a noob again lol.

Did do another contact coil with nickel and it is working, did 5/6 wraps this time and came out to .28ohms, did lock in the resistance, but it still has gone down by .02 though, it is working at the moment, when I left it for a while and then came back, and again like before it just kept hitting temp protection all the time, so no vapor, but I unscrewed the tank and then put back on and it is working again.

Got evic set at 500F, 35watts, and it is hitting very close to them settings when firing.

As tried 3 different toppers, maybe it is the mods, but not tried this new build on the IPV4 yet though.
 

Myk

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I run my Ti much higher- usually around 525. If you ever get the no liquid message you have to turn up the temp!

It shouldn't be like that, and it's not here.
It would be a real problem if it was, I don't like above 450°F. I can go down to 335° and 300° pretty well on a SubTank/IPV4 if hitting it. 300° on a dual Igo-W/D2 without hitting it. 300° on a Igo-L/D2 if hitting it.

It probably is a user error. Better to figure out what that is instead of masking it with a setting the user may not want.

Did a 5/6 spaced wrap this morning, when 1st tried it, it worked, so was all relieved, thinking it actually worked at last, went out and mowed the yard, came back and it was shot, kept hitting temp protection on evic, so have ripped it out and put kanthal back on again.

May try again in the future, but stick with kanthal for now.

It worked and then it didn't? Check your screws. Something is letting your resistance to increase faster than expected from where you locked it in at. Screws can loosen when heated.
What is your "room temperature" you're locking in at? How does your lock in compare to your inches (assuming .1Ω per inch with the Ti)?

What is your wicking and how tight?

Last post, have you wiped off your pins? How old are these atties and mods?
 

Nailz

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It worked and then it didn't? Check your screws. Something is letting your resistance to increase faster than expected from where you locked it in at. Screws can loosen when heated.
What is your "room temperature" you're locking in at? How does your lock in compare to your inches (assuming .1Ω per inch with the Ti)?

What is your wicking and how tight?

Last post, have you wiped off your pins? How old are these atties and mods?

Yes worked, left for a while and then didn't work, took tank off and put back on and worked again.
Don't think it is the screws, I tightened them as much as I could and checked 3 times as tight as I could get them before putting tank together.
My room temp is 77F.
Using japanese cotton, not real tight in the coil but resistance to move it though.
Did wipe off the atty 510 pin, but not the mod as not very old, but will next time take the tank off, don't want to do it now, as working so well right now.
This build I used kanger subtank RBA, probably about 4-5 months old, lemo I tried yesterday is brand new, only got it Friday, and the freakshow mini I tried yesterday was bought 2nd hand, so not sure how old. Mods, IPV4 about 3 months old, evic 6-8 weeks old.
 

Myk

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The taking it off and putting it on fixing it says at least part of the problem is the 510 pin connection. But nothing sounds old enough to need roughing up, or even that dirty for that matter.
Really odd it's multiple atties and multiple mods.
I clean and wipe my Subtank bases about once a week, more for the insides but the pin gets wiped to dry. Dripper pins get wiped every time they leak out of the air hole which is often.

I don't know if I had the dry coil problem when I made a Japanese cotton wick too tight or why that build didn't last long (it could've been pre-TC or after the Ni to Ti switch, and may have been a flavor issue rather than dry coil no matter when it was), but I have since switched to organic cotton balls from Walgreens and I was just able to go lower than I did when I last checked after the switch to Ti. Mine are pretty easy to pull through.

77° is an issue but that's probably helping. Warming it up to lock it in was how I dealt with it during my Ni problems.
 

rotax

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Ok i'll put my two cents in , I have the evic vt ,mega tank, subtank and isub. i tried the mega with the occ ni coil worked great for a few days no problem, but i got sore trout from the nickel. maybe its in my head but i did't like it. Tried the occ ti coil for the mega and it was shot in a couple of hours, burt out i think because of the small juice holes , had to turn the temp up to get it to hit the way i like, 500 to 550. Then i built a twisted 30 ga.ti coil for my subtank 2.4mm 7-8 wraps pulsed an tightend, worked well enough but was about .85 ohms , again had to run it hot. Last night i took my occ isub coil apart and built a simple spaced 28 ga. ti coil 2.4mm 5-6 wraps. came out to .04 ohms. I drilled out the juice holes one size for a little extra juice. I am on my second tank of juice, taste great, nice cool vape, decent cloud. I am running temp at 500 at 40 watts.
 

rotax

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I may have got that ohm thing wrong, it was 0.38 to 0.40 and locked in at 0.40
 

TheVapingDevil

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Just made up a set of dual coils for my Billow V2 RTA. 8 wraps of 26 g TI around the little blue screwdrivers came in at .17. Using this at 32 Watts and 420 degrees on the sig 75 (temp compensated due to sig does not have TI mode so temp should be actually around 510 degrees). Chucking crazy dense and extremely flavorful clouds with Rayon wicking. Good luck.
 

Nailz

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Just made up a set of dual coils for my Billow V2 RTA. 8 wraps of 26 g TI around the little blue screwdrivers came in at .17. Using this at 32 Watts and 420 degrees on the sig 75 (temp compensated due to sig does not have TI mode so temp should be actually around 510 degrees). Chucking crazy dense and extremely flavorful clouds with Rayon wicking. Good luck.

I got the billow coming, so going to give it a try on that when it gets here :)
 

Nailz

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Rather than starting another thread, going to ask here.

Can you use titanium with a TC mod that only has nickel setting, or does it have to have a Ti setting to use it?
 

AmandaD

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Rather than starting another thread, going to ask here.

Can you use titanium with a TC mod that only has nickel setting, or does it have to have a Ti setting to use it?
Yes you can! Just turn it way down. I usually start at 300 with Ti coils on a Ni setting!
 

Nailz

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Yes you can! Just turn it way down. I usually start at 300 with Ti coils on a Ni setting!

Awesome, thank you, my zero TC mod has a adjustable pin, so thinking that may help making a better connection.
 

TheVapingDevil

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As Amanda said you absolutely can. I am vaping my ti coils on a sig 75 on nickle mode. I have temp turned down about 100 degrees lower than I would with ni200 coils. Good luck

Sent from my Samsung Galaxy S5 Dumbphone
 

Nailz

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Well the tank that worked fine in the evic last night, didn't work well when got home from work today, but is working fine on my zero TC mod, so think it is safe to say it is a 510 connection problem I've been having, evic has spring loaded pin, the zero has a adjustable pin.
 

Mattp169

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@Nailz, I think you hit the nailz on the headz.Based upon multiple discussions, There is definitely an issue with some tanks and the 510 connection in TC mode. It may be fine for power mode, but not good enough for TC since TC requires absolute perfection IMHO. Now if you can come up with a solution to it Id be all ears. I find basically with teh subtanks to tighten everything as tight as possibe, then try to tighten some more does the trick for me on my D2 and my Li3
 

Nailz

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@Nailz, I think you hit the nailz on the headz.Based upon multiple discussions, There is definitely an issue with some tanks and the 510 connection in TC mode. It may be fine for power mode, but not good enough for TC since TC requires absolute perfection IMHO. Now if you can come up with a solution to it Id be all ears. I find basically with teh subtanks to tighten everything as tight as possibe, then try to tighten some more does the trick for me on my D2 and my Li3

I think the only solution at the moment, is either have a mod with adjustable pin or a tank that has a adjustable 510 pin on it, hopefully it will get easier as the technology progresses, I am only trying to do temp control with one tank, and I have 3 tanks in rotation, if I tried doing all 3 at the same time, I would of probably thrown it all in the trash and smoked a cig, and haven't done that in over 2 and half years.
 

Mattp169

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yes i think adjustable 510 pin either the mod or the tank/rda is key. I only have the D2 and Li3 with spring 510 and a subtank and maganus with no adjustable 510 and am having issues
 

Lefty

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I count myself lucky. I've been using 26g TI from StealthVape and have zero issues. I have 4 Isub coils rebuilt with it as well as a Taifun GT II with modified airflow and a Tobeco KF4 clone. I expected issues with the KF4 with a sub ohm kit installed but it's been rock solid. All are open coils in the .24-.25 ohm range running between 400-450 degrees depending on juice and airflow. Isubs wicked with JC and GT and KF4 with rayon. Running on an IPV D2.
 
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Lefty

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Yup, damn slippery periods anyway. :) Fixed. Thanks.
 
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