Nemesis clone arrived-it works woohoo!

My brass nemesis clone finally turned up today. I put a battery in, tried firing, and no luck.

I then went to the father, the teacher of all, the most holy of places for advice, that place was called youtube.

I realised the top part needed to come off as that was for something called a kick, so that came off.
I also adjusted the 510 pin at the top, untill the RDA stat flat, as at first it was too high and made the RDA not sit flat.

Also, the battery was not connecting. So I adjusted, and adjusted, the top part of the Mod. Still not working.

I then went to the bottom. There was a beauty ring, that stopped me screwing the firing button all the way UNLESS I screwed the beauty ring so High, it covered the vent holes! So that beauty ring had to come off for safety.

It still was not firing, and when I tightened the bottom fully I could here the battle moving just a tiny bit when I shook the device.

It took me about half hour to realise the bottom is also screw adjustable, and that needed to be made higher for it to work. It needed raising quite a bit, but when the fire button is NOT pressed, there is about 3MM clearance from the negative of the battery, is that far enough? I don't think It will work if I back it off any more.

BUT, I put a single 0.6 Ohm coil in my el Cabron, and it fired. It finally fired. I had checked the mod on a Ohmeter for vaping and also on another device to check it was safe, I ensured there was no short or such, but to make sure, I tried it on the regulated first.

I had to also adjust the bottom screw a little bit on my RDA, not much as its not a hybrid top cap, just standard 510. If I screw the base in all the way, can I store it standing up? As the fire button will obviously not be able to press, and it would be nice to be able to keep beside me with a RDA on top.

If this is bad practice, and you should remove the RDA and store on its side, that is what I am currently doing. It just would be much nicer if I could store it standing up. There will still be that 3mm clearance from the battery, so standing upright screwed all the way in should be fine shouldn't it?

I have only used it for 3 5 second pulls so far. The build was actually 0.57, but close enough to what I wanted, and I know SAFE enough for what I wanted. 0.3 is the lowest I would go, with an amp draw of 14 amps, as 0.2 is 21 amps, too much for a 25R. The only time I will need to build that low is if I am going for big dual coils for clouds, this single coil chucks enough if I am honest. It is obviously not like my Sig 150 with a dual build, but it is still a large cloud.

So, so far, vaping on a mech has taught me a few things-they are a bugger to set up, you need to be extra safe and cautious with builds and the mod itself, and apart from that, I am enjoying the fact I am vaping something that has no chip, that I created to work safely myself by building safely.

That, is a great feeling. I can understand why some people still use mechs.

I think today I am going to use this device for today, and go the 'oldschool way' (When I first was vaping, it was either Ego's and CE4's, or Mechs. I did not go near a mech because I was scared of them. I did stop vaping also for a good few months, but I missed it, upgraded my Ego to a SIg30Mini, now I am 5 Mods in, have hundreds of meters of different types of wire (Ebay must think I am a mass murderer on a garrotting spree lol), make my own juice, and LOVE vaping.

Respect to the mechs.

I have answered the storage question myself, it needs to be stored on its side. Even fully screwed in it can still fire, as I can still press the button without the beauty ring there to stop it.

That "beauty ring" is actually the firing switch lock. I suggest you put it back on so you can screw it down a bit to lock the switch so you can store it upright. Don't worry about the vent holes, there is plenty of air movement through the switch.

I had to change the battery already, either I had put in one that was nearly empty and was meant to go on charge, or it WAS making contact when I was working on it, but had no topper. I was working on it for quite a while to make it work, so I do think the second option was more likely, as I took it from my charge selection.

The only way I could of made a mistake was if I put a battery on charge for around 20 minutes, then went to bed, I take the battery out and rotate it, so it is balanced in the switched off charger, sideward on top, so I can continue charging in the morning. It is possible I saw the battery out, and put it in the box thinking I had fully charged it, when In reality it got 20 mins tops. I thought that the 25 watts it was outputting was a little low lol, luckily the battery is charging, as we know samsung rates them down to 2.5Volts. I doubt I reached that low, maybe 3 at most, as I doubt there would be any output at all otherwise.

Zamazam said:

That "beauty ring" is actually the firing switch lock. I suggest you put it back on so you can screw it down a bit to lock the switch so you can store it upright. Don't worry about the vent holes, there is plenty of air movement through the switch.

Click to expand...

Oh crap. Ok I see, so inside I will have to adjust the bottom out Even more? As with the lock in place, I can not get enough throw to make contact and fire.

Is under 2MM clearance going to be safe? It will be around 1MM, maybe 1.5 if it will fire with the ring in place. Maybe it is designed for button top batteries?
If not, I will have to leave it off, and store it with the battery removed, and put it in whenever I want to use it.

I already have the top screw maxed out, any lower and the 510 screw goes below the threading, making contact with the atty impossible.

I completely dismantled the fire button. Put it back together, firing fine now. I guess I will always remember to put batteries in from the TOP not BOTTOM.

Where I put it in the bottom, it was not fully screwing in due to the spring just rotating in the base. I removed the screw, and screwed in the main part of the firing pin threaded part all the way in, using a screw driver to put in a side hole and help rotate it. I could back the screw off then. Took ages to get it working properly, but its working. I didn't realise it would be so complicated to set up, but its worth it.

I have put a REAL fresh battery in, fresh from the charger. The other one is still not even one third full. I was so concentrated on safety I forgot about a fresh battery.

Now, how long it will last, is the question. I will find out for myself.

Ok, since I dismantled it, and ensured the firing pin holder was screwed all the way in, it works fine with the lock ring in place. I can also lock it so it does not fire. I also managed to put the screw in more, it needed even less to make contact!

I will only install batteries from the top now, I did not know that is how you did it in a mech. Lesson learnt though.

I can now store it upright, I might even take it out with me today with a 0.6 tank, use my lemo on it, will only be out for a few hours so it should be ok for that shouldn't it?

I'd carry a spare batt just in case.
Fwiw,I never store mechs with a batt in them. If you know you aren't going to be using it for awhile then it's just safe practice to remove the batt.

Well, here it is. 0.6 ohm build for the tank, blowing clouds as good as any regulated would at the same wattage.

Here she is:

The beauty ring is that small ring that you have installed between the two main body tubes. You will find that with a flat top batt if you remove that ring entirely then you won't be making adjustments with the switch screw which should be screwed all the way down and then won't change position. You adjust slack with the whole switch. When you have the 510 adjusted to make contact then pop the battery in then just screw on the firing switch to take up the slack. This should leave you with a reasonably short switch gap and reduce the number of turns to lock it and if it's a good clone no wobble or crunch in the switch. Those beauty rings are thin and flexible and will get stuck easily. Turning harder just flexes them more and sticks them worse. If you stick one use a rubber glove and just grab the ring in one spot, inside and out, then try to turn it. Work your way around the ring doing this until you find the spot where the ring unsticks.

Its all installed nice and fits together well, I don't have to unscrew it much to be able to fire it, but I prefer it a bit further out, I guess this would be called 'throw' in the switch. I have about 2-3MM.

If I remove the middl ring, I can't even screw it together, there is about a 5MM gap, is it possible this is for 18500 Batteries?

Thanks for the rubber glove tip on the beauty ring.

I didn't take it out with me in the end, I took a regulated Mod, just a lot easier lol. I am home now though and will have lots of fun with it.

My lemo is 0.7 Ohms, which is nice on my regulateds and just the right spot for the mech, and I have a 0.57 in my RDA single coil, thats quite a nice cloud chucker.

I Might try a dual coil 0.3 build, see how it chucks the clouds, as thats about 58.8 watts, I use between 50-60 watts usually on my dual coils, 80 plus if I am going mad cloud chasing. But for flavour, the higher end of 50 seems right, so I will try with the mech.

It was a bugger to set up, but I think it is very pretty. I think it is a bit insane the fire lock blocks the vent holes though-is there really enough airflow around the battery, or it it a potential pipe bomb? Not sure wether to remove it, what I have been doing is unscrewing it to show the vent holes, then backing off the fire button a bit more so I can use it knowing there is free vent holes. I wouldn't want a potential pipe bomb lol.

I think I messed up the first 25R, thinking it was fully charged, I got about 10 5 second pulls then it stopped outputting vapour, like hardly any, I charged it, it charged to full, but I put it in my mech and it lasted for about 15 minutes, even at the beginning it wasn't as poweful as the original battery.

I have 5 mods, 10 batteries, I need to get more 25R's as I plan on making that six in a fortnight. Dual battery Smok Xcube 2, as I like dual battery mods due to the power and battery life, like I have two single battery devices that are capable of 75 watts, but I rarely use them on 60 due to the battery life. The IPV certainly lasts a lot longer at higher wattage than the sigelei though.

I usually use them at most 40 watts and under, and the battery lasts the day. If I used higher power it would only be a few hours, so if I plan on higher wattage it is the dual mod I use.

I really like the Mech, but the fact that batteries only work till around 3.6-3.7V and on regulateds down to 3.1V is a obvious factor towards the regulateds.

I think Mechs win on looks, but performance wise, a regulated is great, being able to change wattage on the fly, instead of building a coil, and the extra battery life wins. Plus they don't break your batteries like I think I did to that 25R, although that was my fault entirely.

Removing the center beauty ring allows you to tighten the battery pin on the firing switch all the way down as it should be.

Steps in setting up a mod are pretty simple.

1.) Remove the top and unscrew the adjustment pin...install your atty being used and then tighten the pin back down snug....this will ensure you have contact to the atty being used.

2.) Remove the firing switch and install your battery from the bottom..Screw the firing pin on the swith all the way down as far as you can..Now install the firing switch back onto the mod untill it wont screw on any more and try to fire the mod...if it doesnt fire then the adjustment screw on the switch needs to be turned out some untill it does..but the firing button will feel like shit.

...That small center beauty ring makes the switch stick way out and feel very loose because the pin inside is only catching on a few of the threads...This is not what i consider good as it moves side to side and destroys the threads...Remove the center ring and you will enjoy your mod a hell of alot more.

The firing switch on a nemesis isnt the best and sometimes you will press it and nothing happen even though it can be adjusted properly...pressure has to be placed in the correct spot to get it to fire..Sometimes you feel the button move and think it would but it doesnt...There are ways to improve the firing button a lot but first get it working like it should stock and go from there.

conanthewarrior said:

Well, here it is. 0.6 ohm build for the tank, blowing clouds as good as any regulated would at the same wattage.

Here she is:

Click to expand...

I notice in the pic the lock ring is partially down...that should be all the way up to allow the firing button to screw on as much as possible...then you can lower the lock ring to avoid it firing when not wanted.

Mike H. said:

I notice in the pic the lock ring is partially down...that should be all the way up to allow the firing button to screw on as much as possible...then you can lower the lock ring to avoid it firing when not wanted.

Click to expand...

If I do that the vent holes are covered though, I have to loosen it otherwise there is no vent holes lol. The ring is quite loose though, so I did not know if the holes still work when fully tightened,just didn't want to risk it.

Also, the battery is not damaged! I let it sit for 10 minutes, it works fine. I can't of took it too low, as 3 volts is only 15 watts, I definitely would of notice that reduction from 25, the batteries are rated down to 2.5 volts, if I even went to 2.8 it would of been about 12 watts, so I definitely did not go below that. Glad I didn't break a battery on the first day. I am using the mech now actually, as the RDA is very tasty. My lemo is also set up to work with it now, and works great.

I think I will use this occasionally, its handy to have incase they really do regulate them out of existence somehow, at least I would have something that will never break, or at least I can fix myself simply now I understand it after taking apart fully.

They will still vent through the threads even when covered. Try this. With the mod empty remove the top piece and with the locking ring all the way up covering the holes and the switch adjusted to your usual gap when assembled blow through the top. You will see that the mod is able to vent even with the holes covered. If you don't tighten the switch screw and just take out the ring then it of course won't fit. I have three of them and they all work nicely without the beauty ring.

conanthewarrior said:

If I do that the vent holes are covered though, I have to loosen it otherwise there is no vent holes lol. The ring is quite loose though, so I did not know if the holes still work when fully tightened,just didn't want to risk it.

Also, the battery is not damaged! I let it sit for 10 minutes, it works fine. I can't of took it too low, as 3 volts is only 15 watts, I definitely would of notice that reduction from 25, the batteries are rated down to 2.5 volts, if I even went to 2.8 it would of been about 12 watts, so I definitely did not go below that. Glad I didn't break a battery on the first day. I am using the mech now actually, as the RDA is very tasty. My lemo is also set up to work with it now, and works great.

I think I will use this occasionally, its handy to have incase they really do regulate them out of existence somehow, at least I would have something that will never break, or at least I can fix myself simply now I understand it after taking apart fully.

Click to expand...

Dont go by how low a battery is said to be allowed to drop to voltage wise ....in a mech mod you stop at no lower than 3.5 to 3.6 volts...the vape will suck below that anyway and its not good for the batteries life wise...it has no step up to maintain a good vape like a regulated does.

The mod will still vent with the holes covered like was said...it will vent via the spaces in the threads...Getting the switch set up properly should be more of your concern.

Mike H. said:

Dont go by how low a battery is said to be allowed to drop to voltage wise ....in a mech mod you stop at no lower than 3.5 to 3.6 volts...the vape will suck below that anyway and its not good for the batteries life wise...it has no step up to maintain a good vape like a regulated does.

The mod will still vent with the holes covered like was said...it will vent via the spaces in the threads...Getting the switch set up properly should be more of your concern.

Click to expand...

The switch is now set up perfectly, and I have been using it all day. Changing batteries every few hours, people said I will be able to tell when the power has dropped off, but I am not sure. I am using a 0.7 build for around 25 watts, from around 28 down to about 23 when I change, and it is great. I really like it.

Hmm I'm not sure brass was the best choice. It has marks on it already, I don't know if its nicotine or juice that has accidentally got on it, but I will have to get the brasso out later.

That, or let it get a natural patina. I'm not sure yet.

Also, whats the best way to know I am pulling the batteries at the right time? I am pretty sure if I did go down to 3.1 like in a regulated, I would notice, as by the its putting out about 14 watts. Won't be as dense and will clear a lot quicker.

I was thinking of getting a reader, not sure what they are called, is it a multimeter? One that also tells you the capacity of your fully charged battery? I have seen people use them, they put a prong to each end and it says 4.1Volts and such, and also say 2478 MAH in a different mode, I want one of them. Are these the devices that also can read capacity?

I have a brass Hcigar Nemesis and getting it to darken evenly when you handle it on a regular basis is difficult. Depends on whether you like the shiny brass look. You will develop a feel for when you need to change batteries as you continue to use the mod.

Don't understand why anyone would only drain a battery to 3.7v in a mech yet be happy for a pair of serious cells in a high wattage regulated device to drop to 3.2v. There's absolutely no difference. You're not doing anything dangerous. The regulated devices protections aren't helping any, there's nothing going on in a mech below 3.7v that's not going on in a regulated device.

I'm all for battery safety, but switching cells at 3.7v isn't benefiting anything. Fair enough, if you want a stronger Vape, change the battery. Other than that there's zero danger going down to 3.3V or so. I get plenty of vapour at 0.2 ohms at 3.7v. Mine get put on the charger, on average, at about 3.3V. Definitely don't over discharge them, but if I were to switch them at 3.7V I'd need way more than four batteries to last a 12 hour shift.