mkhilario
Bronze Contributor
Member For 4 Years
Member For 3 Years
Member For 2 Years
Member For 1 Year
First let me start by mentioning that this RDATA costs $110. Many will not need to read any further!
This will be written as an addendum to the excellent and accurate Rip Trippers video. I would start by watching that first:
If you've already watched the video then read on. The reason I bought the tank is the same reason Rip loves it: I am a flavor chaser and this gives a vapor density from a single coil at low wattage that I have not experienced before. I replicated Rip's build and mode of use except that I have currently settled on 0.68 ohms as I get a nice warm dense vape off a mech with this and I found 0.5 a little too hot for me. This works out to 21W @ 4.7V. YMMV, I am not a very aggressive vaper. EDIT: After a month of trying several builds including a dual vertical, I have come to prefer a single parallel coil of 3mm ID 26 gauge 7 wrap coming out at 0.4 ohms.
I did not have the same issues with the machining that he had with his. I got a new run (serial #644) and the deck is clean with no major burrs. As he said in the video, the tolerances are very tight and there is no leaking.
All the screws were extremely tight. I had to use a big screwdriver (with interchangeable heads) to get enough leverage to loosen them initially. A pain. Which leads me to:
Machine oil. Horrible. Initially, I left the positive pin in place and disassembled everything else. The tank sleeve was also very tight and a chore to slip off. I did my standard toothbrush with dawn and warm water followed with a boil in water. I was rewarded with a nice dense vape of machine oil with a hint of the blueberry rye 4 I had loaded. So it was time to get medieval on this mofo. I finally got the positive contact screw loose. Even after you break the initial tension it's still pretty tight, it took me several minutes to unscrew it completely. I believe the majority of the residue resided in the peek insulation sleeve. I was able to pop out the positive post block but left the sleeve in place because I was afraid of damaging it. So, decontamination went like this: 1) toothbrush w dawn and boil in water, 2) soak overnight in alcohol 3) simmer in warm vegetable oil, 4) toothbrush w dawn, 5) boil in water, 6) Reassemble.
Random notes: You cannot remove the plastic deck block without removing the post screws first, they lock it in place (clever). The airflow is not adjustable but, like Rip, I find it ideal. The small bore stainless drip tip it comes with is a lip roaster. I wish I could get the one in the video but VHO told me it's out of stock. Right now I'm using a larger bore all delrin DT and it works fine. The tight positive pin stays in place nicely wherever you set it.
So, the question is if I lost this Haze today, would I go out tomorrow and buy another one? And the answer is "No", and it's a hard no because although I love it, I never want to spend $110 on an RDA again!
Edit: I found another negative. The coil gets gunky pretty fast so I have to re-wick often so I can dry burn it. I think it's because the top cap is totally flat and lots of juice builds up on the inside without running down the sides. I have settled on a 0.6 ohm, 3mm ID, 24 gauge single coil for now. Build close to the posts because otherwise any spitback from the coil will come out the air slot onto your chin.
Edit: After a dozen builds I have stabilized on a dual horizontal coil build with 26 gauge 8 wraps 2.5 mm diameter 0.45 ohms. Not too hot. Easy to wick just like a single coil and the air slot lines up nicely. See last pic below. Great roadie vape on a compact mod.
Find it:
https://bevapehappy.com/shop/haze-dripper-tank-by-vho/
In Philippines > https://www.facebook.com/planetvape...722756901542/1046894672017676/?type=3&theater
This will be written as an addendum to the excellent and accurate Rip Trippers video. I would start by watching that first:
If you've already watched the video then read on. The reason I bought the tank is the same reason Rip loves it: I am a flavor chaser and this gives a vapor density from a single coil at low wattage that I have not experienced before. I replicated Rip's build and mode of use except that I have currently settled on 0.68 ohms as I get a nice warm dense vape off a mech with this and I found 0.5 a little too hot for me. This works out to 21W @ 4.7V. YMMV, I am not a very aggressive vaper. EDIT: After a month of trying several builds including a dual vertical, I have come to prefer a single parallel coil of 3mm ID 26 gauge 7 wrap coming out at 0.4 ohms.
I did not have the same issues with the machining that he had with his. I got a new run (serial #644) and the deck is clean with no major burrs. As he said in the video, the tolerances are very tight and there is no leaking.
All the screws were extremely tight. I had to use a big screwdriver (with interchangeable heads) to get enough leverage to loosen them initially. A pain. Which leads me to:
Machine oil. Horrible. Initially, I left the positive pin in place and disassembled everything else. The tank sleeve was also very tight and a chore to slip off. I did my standard toothbrush with dawn and warm water followed with a boil in water. I was rewarded with a nice dense vape of machine oil with a hint of the blueberry rye 4 I had loaded. So it was time to get medieval on this mofo. I finally got the positive contact screw loose. Even after you break the initial tension it's still pretty tight, it took me several minutes to unscrew it completely. I believe the majority of the residue resided in the peek insulation sleeve. I was able to pop out the positive post block but left the sleeve in place because I was afraid of damaging it. So, decontamination went like this: 1) toothbrush w dawn and boil in water, 2) soak overnight in alcohol 3) simmer in warm vegetable oil, 4) toothbrush w dawn, 5) boil in water, 6) Reassemble.
Random notes: You cannot remove the plastic deck block without removing the post screws first, they lock it in place (clever). The airflow is not adjustable but, like Rip, I find it ideal. The small bore stainless drip tip it comes with is a lip roaster. I wish I could get the one in the video but VHO told me it's out of stock. Right now I'm using a larger bore all delrin DT and it works fine. The tight positive pin stays in place nicely wherever you set it.
So, the question is if I lost this Haze today, would I go out tomorrow and buy another one? And the answer is "No", and it's a hard no because although I love it, I never want to spend $110 on an RDA again!
Edit: I found another negative. The coil gets gunky pretty fast so I have to re-wick often so I can dry burn it. I think it's because the top cap is totally flat and lots of juice builds up on the inside without running down the sides. I have settled on a 0.6 ohm, 3mm ID, 24 gauge single coil for now. Build close to the posts because otherwise any spitback from the coil will come out the air slot onto your chin.
Edit: After a dozen builds I have stabilized on a dual horizontal coil build with 26 gauge 8 wraps 2.5 mm diameter 0.45 ohms. Not too hot. Easy to wick just like a single coil and the air slot lines up nicely. See last pic below. Great roadie vape on a compact mod.
Find it:
https://bevapehappy.com/shop/haze-dripper-tank-by-vho/
In Philippines > https://www.facebook.com/planetvape...722756901542/1046894672017676/?type=3&theater
Attachments
Last edited:
