Become a Patron!

Basic MOSFET wiring

From what information I found on that MOSFET, it won't work. To high a resistance and too high a turn on voltage for box mods.
I spent a few hrs last night ripping apart my old pc power supplies, laptop chargers, broken xbox boards, and broken subwoofer amps. Ended up finding a ton of mosfets, which I then had some learning to do.. The only problem is most of them need a 20 volt current to turn on. Could I bypass this issue with a capacitor? Or would the mosfet just turn off immediately after the initial burst?
 

DIY FancyLights

Member For 4 Years
The MOSFET's need a certain voltage on the gate to turn them on and keep them on, which is why the preferred parts a usually called Logic or sub-Logic Level so they turn on below 3V. Standard MOSFET's like you find in many power supplies need > 10V to turn on. On spec sheets, the voltage they start to turn on at is listed as Vgs(thr), but you also need to watch what the Rds(on) is at the voltage you will be using, because that resistance can cause problems with things like box mods.
 
So i managed to find a MOSFET made by STELECTRONICS, its a "60N55F3" its a TO-220FP.. VGS(th): 2 - 4V, and RDS(on): 6.5 - 8.5 mΩ, Would this be a reliable mosfet to use in a Series build?
 

DIY FancyLights

Member For 4 Years
Most moders like to have 2,Ohm or less so the MOSFET doesn't get too warm because of the limited cooling. The currently recommended MOSFET's I've seen include IRLB3034PBF, IRLB3813PBF, PSMN1R9-40PLQ, and the newest addition of the PSMN0R9-25 (surface mount) which is what I use on the 'microFET' board I sell on eBay which also include the pulldown resistor and very easy to install.

An early one people liked but have been moving away from more is the IRLB8743PBF, but in a series build this is still a possibility, just not as good for parallels as the others.
 

Coletrain182

Bronze Contributor
Member For 4 Years
Member For 3 Years
Member For 2 Years
Hey guys! First 18650 dual parallel box mod build. I had 3 mosfets. I think I have burned up all three of them. I have been doing electrical work for about 15 years now so I know all about that. My box won't fire at all though. I think I have everything wired up correctly. All 14 gauge wire. Can anyone please help me. Do I just need to order more mosfets? Here's some pictures. Thanks in advance.
 

Coletrain182

Bronze Contributor
Member For 4 Years
Member For 3 Years
Member For 2 Years
b1d5cf7457c32a05e4b20549b469a2fa.jpg
f2d852359eab54612b05827efe402b0d.jpg
6e2862d57aba3dc852e5f29c271056ae.jpg



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

MrScaryZ

VU Donator
Platinum Contributor
Member For 5 Years
Can someone help me out with basic wiring of a mosfet for a box mod.

I am trying to use a mosfet in unregulated mode just to offset the AMP current form the button.

I am building a dual 18650 box mod, and would like to use the mosfet as most momentary switches are only rated to 3 AMPS
There are schematics all over the Internet man Google is your friend..
 

Coletrain182

Bronze Contributor
Member For 4 Years
Member For 3 Years
Member For 2 Years
I've been all over Google and checked. I'm pretty sure I have I right. Just need to know I'm not going crazy. Lol


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

Coletrain182

Bronze Contributor
Member For 4 Years
Member For 3 Years
Member For 2 Years
Lol thanks for the encouragement Wabah58! I'm just gonna start all over.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

VapeTechnologies

VapeTechnologies LLC Advanced Custom Boxes
VU Donator
Member For 4 Years
Member For 3 Years
Member For 2 Years
Unlisted Vendor
Omg what did I just see... worthy of a screencap lol
You guys Crack me up :)
 

Coletrain182

Bronze Contributor
Member For 4 Years
Member For 3 Years
Member For 2 Years
Damn was it that bad? Lol I got it working now. Just took the mosfet out and straight wired it. Works like a Charm now. .14 ohm build and chucks clouds for days.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

DIY FancyLights

Member For 4 Years
Bad solder jobs are enough to mess up a box mod, specially when working with parallel builds. The high currents involved greatly magnify the effects of the resistance in bad solder joints leading to weak pulls & even MOSFET overheating.

Also, uninsulated joints (like the ones in the first pictures) are very dangerous and could lead to shorts, unexpected firing, and battery overheating. There is a lot of power in those little batteries, think about safety first! It's not just about looks.
 

Coletrain182

Bronze Contributor
Member For 4 Years
Member For 3 Years
Member For 2 Years
Thanks for the info. I appreciate it! I wasn't gonna leave those wire like that. I was gonna use some heat shrink just wanted everyone to see my awesome soldering job. Lol


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

axelbeam

Platinum Contributor
Member For 4 Years
wow great thread guys been reading the whole thing for like 3 days now its been like crack just learning and seeing everything everyone has come up with. I think I may try a pwm box for my first build. David do you sell that board and does it come populated
 

Wabah58

Silver Contributor
Member For 4 Years
wow great thread guys been reading the whole thing for like 3 days now its been like crack just learning and seeing everything everyone has come up with. I think I may try a pwm box for my first build. David do you sell that board and does it come populated

PWM is just the best IMO, but might want to start with a basic parallel build first. Which ever way you decide to start, just take your time, since you read the whole thread you have a great start. GOOD LUCK! Post your build....
 

DIY FancyLights

Member For 4 Years
David will have to answer for himself about his PWM board.

I'm preparing to release kit for a 0.900"x0.392": board that has different characteristics from Davids board that can work with 2P/4P/2S/3S/4S and doesn't need any diodes on the pot like some of the 555 projects out there. More to follow once I get my bulk parts. I have the PCB's on hand and started testing last week, and have ordered bulk parts to help lower the cost for the kits.
 

DIY FancyLights

Member For 4 Years
David will have to answer for himself about his PWM board.

I'm preparing to release kit for a 0.900"x0.392": board that has different characteristics from Davids board that can work with 2P/4P/2S/3S/4S and doesn't need any diodes on the pot like some of the 555 projects out there. More to follow once I get my bulk parts. I have the PCB's on hand and started testing last week, and have ordered bulk parts to help lower the cost for the kits.
Currently awaiting shipment confirmation on my bulk parts for the microPWM Kit. Keep in mind a magnifier, tweezers, fine tip soldering iron, and a steady hand will be needed to assemble the 6 SMD parts. Has space for some trimpots or easy wiring to an external pot, the fire switch must be off board. All holes for wires are along the edge of the board and can handle up to 22awg stranded or 20awg solid wire. Also has extra holes for additional connection to power/ground. The holes are also on a 0.1" grid so standard PCB headers can be soldered in (good for prototyping or people that want to be able to unplug their board).

microPWM-5014-pcb.jpg microPWM-5014-sch.png microPWM-5014-assy.jpg YmicroPWM-5014-usage_v4.png
Only one battery shown in the sample usage, but can be 2P/3P/4P/2S/3S/4S, it can handle up to 18V and still works at 3.7V. One note, the pull down resistor on my microFET board does need to be change to 470K ohms. If using a TO-220 MOSFET, a 470K resistor is recommended instead of the 15K most unregulated mods use.

First draft of assembly instructions is at: www.diyfancylights.com/files/microPWM-5014-instructions.pdf, including the preliminary information on C1 & R1 frequency select (for people that don't like how it sounds, some PWM's whine, others buzz).
 

axelbeam

Platinum Contributor
Member For 4 Years
Ok picked up some wire from work need to get the spec sheet on it but my quality manager said it could handle 4000 volts it's a 200 strand 38 awg Litz wire and round about the same size as 14 awg solid core
e3bdcfb3d10351d3272299829eb116d8.jpg



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

DIY FancyLights

Member For 4 Years
Sounds like some impressive wire, and not the type of thing that very many people could get their hands on. Having very flexible 14awg really helps for box mods as long as you also have good solder joints.
 

axelbeam

Platinum Contributor
Member For 4 Years
I work for a wire manufacture it really does help


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

david4500

Member For 4 Years
Member For 3 Years
wow great thread guys been reading the whole thing for like 3 days now its been like crack just learning and seeing everything everyone has come up with. I think I may try a pwm box for my first build. David do you sell that board and does it come populated

If I have some boards available in the future I will let you know and yes it would be fully populated with all electrical components. The board with the screws and standoffs would have those included as well.

If you're too impatient too wait for me to get some boards assembled, I'd recommend Diy FancyLights mosfet board as well as his PWM board when available. Another source for some great boards would be ModPCB https://squareup.com/market/modpcb He usually offers more populated boards but is on vacation at the moment
 

DIY FancyLights

Member For 4 Years
For people that may be wondering about my timing on posting my PWM info, David and I have been sharing design ideas and feedback and David was privi to my preliminary information on this design and we have been influencing each others projects.

I just got in my bulk order of parts and I'm testing them, and will be opening up orders on my microPWM board on eBay soon. I'll give anyone here that contacts be directly discounts on the microFET boards or microPWM KITs.
 

DIY FancyLights

Member For 4 Years
For people that may be wondering about my timing on posting my PWM info, David and I have been sharing design ideas and feedback and David was privi to my preliminary information on this design and we have been influencing each others projects.

I just got in my bulk order of parts and I'm testing them, and will be opening up orders on my microPWM board on eBay soon. I'll give anyone here that contacts be directly discounts on the microFET boards or microPWM KITs.
Other then I feel burnt out now and need to get my eBay listings for the microPWM up ... I'm officially moving my kit from the preorder to orderable now. For early adopters I'll continue to provide a range of 3 different C1 capacitors from 0.1uF to 0.47uF to help people choose the frequency (when combined with the pot value). Please note that Parallel batteries do work best at low frequencies (at low voltages the voltage booster driving the Gate needs more time to boost the voltage above the battery level).

Please note ... anyone that is already a regular microFET buyer or buying 10 or more microFET's can ask for one microPWM KIT to play with for evaluation purposes

I'm also open to answering an questions people have ... but I probably should do that in a separate thread? Possibly under Regulated Mods since PWM is the most basic regulation? Sigh ... I suppose I'll have to post in Unlisted Vendor now as well my heads still spinning from all my testing!
 

krashkrieg

Bronze Contributor
Member For 4 Years
At this point, you should just start a thread introducing this awesome new board you've created
I have a few of your microFETs. Installed one so far and it's such a huge help so I will get a PWM to try soon for sure!


Sent from my shoe phone using Tapa Toe Pro
 

DIY FancyLights

Member For 4 Years
Thanks ... since I'm newer to these forums advice is important :) ... but what I'll do is try to make it so other PWM stuff can be talked about as well since every design has it's good points and bad points.

But since it might end up being an Intro type thing in Newbie ... or go straight to Regulated?
 

krashkrieg

Bronze Contributor
Member For 4 Years
How about a general thread like
"Talk about DIY PWM boards here"

Sent from my shoe phone using Tapa Toe Pro
 

krashkrieg

Bronze Contributor
Member For 4 Years
Oh right, that has your name in it, we'll something like that....

Sent from my shoe phone using Tapa Toe Pro
 

DIY FancyLights

Member For 4 Years
Oh right, that has your name in it, we'll something like that....

Sent from my shoe phone using Tapa Toe Pro
Yea, I sort of got dragged into helping support vaping without trying because so many people were buy parts to use in their mods ... which led to the microFET and then the microPWM as well as expanding the product line. Some days I have too much practical experience with electronics (and computers) for my own good :) But, thats also why my projects are more modular in design, they aren't just for vaping, and will work where larger boards won't.

"The How-To & Why-To of PWM box mods" under this section? That will allow for a lot of useful input including links to various products as well as the pros & cons of PWM.
 

VapeTechnologies

VapeTechnologies LLC Advanced Custom Boxes
VU Donator
Member For 4 Years
Member For 3 Years
Member For 2 Years
Unlisted Vendor
Got mine... so far I'm impressed, can't wait to see what these boards can deliver while taking up such little space. This is a MOSFET thread though, quite a historical one at best, so I'll post more over on @DIY FancyLights PWM thread. This thread is basically a timeline of modding advancements

MICRO_PWM (12).jpg

MICRO_PWM (11).jpg

MICRO_PWM (15).jpg
 
Last edited:

DIY FancyLights

Member For 4 Years
You can always write here about the microFET part :) One neat trick with that board is if you want parallel ... you stack two boards on top of each other (I recommend a slight gap) and just run the wires through both board ... and optionally remove one resistor.
 

axelbeam

Platinum Contributor
Member For 4 Years
Ok guys got my boards in from DIY Fancylights soldered them all up (not the best job in the world) just waiting on the rest of my parts to come in
fbc3f2940e34827931165bab31f9b059.jpg
 
I have a new revision on these...much more simple setup

https://oshpark.com/shared_projects/qDRvdM0k

i.png
Do you have a picture or drawing of this board set up in series? I'm also confused about the center pin on the mosfet, do I cut it off? Just trying to figure out why my first attempt created a constant fire when I attached my atty. also due to the first board auto firing dose this mean all my pieces,(board,mosfet,switch,wires) are now bad and no good to reuse? I have no meter to check them.
 

Warhawk-AVG

Silver Contributor
Member For 5 Years
Do you have a picture or drawing of this board set up in series? I'm also confused about the center pin on the mosfet, do I cut it off? Just trying to figure out why my first attempt created a constant fire when I attached my atty. also due to the first board auto firing dose this mean all my pieces,(board,mosfet,switch,wires) are now bad and no good to reuse? I have no meter to check them.
Unfortunately no...

Sent from my 9006W using Tapatalk
 

DIY FancyLights

Member For 4 Years
For that board, all three pins from the MOSFET go into the three holes directly below the MOSFET. A resistor (often 15K) goes into the two holes below that. If you forget the resistor, that can cause auto firing.
 
For that board, all three pins from the MOSFET go into the three holes directly below the MOSFET. A resistor (often 15K) goes into the two holes below that. If you forget the resistor, that can cause auto firing.
Thank You @DIY FancyLights for your response. The resistor was in place, so I'm not sure as if I've never had an issue from past custom boxes I've never used this board so I am looking for a drawing or schematic . My learning disability makes it hard to comprehend instructions, Any advice or drawings would be helpfull
 

richardward77

Silver Contributor
Member For 4 Years
Thought I'd have ago at making one few weeks ago turned out ok I think anyway.
58e9059bb158b3828e733df6a2e311cd.jpg
9a47cc30c09504be3a5fcb2076ea7173.jpg
the wiring diagram I used.
abdeca8fed9678c37a46abd0650dcc90.jpg


Sent from my P022 using Tapatalk
 

DIY FancyLights

Member For 4 Years
And the PCB that was being asked about is the same with one small exception, the wire in the middle (marked D) he needs to solder to the hole at the other end of the board near the tab. The G & S holes are the ones right near the their respective pins.
 
Not sur
And the PCB that was being asked about is the same with one small exception, the wire in the middle (marked D) he needs to solder to the hole at the other end of the board near the tab. The G & S holes are the ones right near the their respective pins.[/QUOTE
Not sure who your post was for, but if it was a response to me it has me confused a bit now, haha.
 
And the PCB that was being asked about is the same with one small exception, the wire in the middle (marked D) he needs to solder to the hole at the other end of the board near the tab. The G & S holes are the ones right near the their respective pins.
Not sure if your posting to me but now I am little lost on translation
 

VU Sponsors

Top