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Thoughts on the Noisy Cricket

dry_hit

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Wicked little device and the price point makes it one helluva buy.

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r055co

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I ordered the Cricket just to be prepared for the pending FDA's Vape Apocalypse and I fell in love this little beast. With a .7 Ohm build, very nice Vape, very nice.

Ltq-nE9wxIWh5mriDXy5AukYLGvmBAzofxRaCSvvXxHeBdnooyo5PyiMSA1CehdEtcaVQtNATTxGFqqcAJnSYCYCjec7OuD1SWxCQHKphRQI7kUrEsK-eZ5PcQ7z0QZcJ1n5GxQhTzjcE6-qAa25UHW-PlQDGc01iH5aoAR_J8QK0N6R55iF5LLEYMWreMdkb2rjfmOoQeSSPK0wRVRXy74K3qHLkUnqMaTC24yFL7Ti4zq3x4VSNJW_cNEdWX3P2RbjQbW6u67Y4D-RGlNmwKdZUsaVUOdDV34Q1Q06HCMAGQ-lCFOZcGQvbw8UEND8v93p_-6q_hZhDlHn0T9wUOi_5bBlymVCn-J-11GYeca_2LJUyewAAZg-3SkpOutsf4ATNj_CBmY7JkzQRNNwDCyMj4Z3OzhEJUt0fWMOLVKJ6yT0oMJPXV_M47EmsXFbegD25u7v6TSed8VF4UbbIUntH_zADwZuNvdJZIIefxvYAzNQRniL_QuPRUTHEAOtMfZJL3V8GBu-ueKldPlCL-hjf0dX68JUo1tQmbRfGwJ_ECsvKOSIicYbxxNkTH67_3WlxA=w607-h817-no
 

r055co

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Made some fused Clapton's 30/34, wrapped a pair @ 10 with 3mm di, ohmed out @ 0.81.

Wonderful vape in the Hatty, this Atty is awesome with the Cricket.

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Nice builds everyone! i got this as my first mech mod and have been having so much fun with it. spent a few days reading high and low first to familiarize myself with it and how to be safe. I've been using single wire, 24gk, 18 wrap dual coils for around .8 or so and loving it. I made a few lower ohm builds and find them to be too hot and generating too much vapor for me to enjoy it myself.

Just wanted to thank everyone in here for all the knowledge and info! safe vapin everyone
 

r055co

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Nice builds everyone! i got this as my first mech mod and have been having so much fun with it. spent a few days reading high and low first to familiarize myself with it and how to be safe. I've been using single wire, 24gk, 18 wrap dual coils for around .8 or so and loving it. I made a few lower ohm builds and find them to be too hot and generating too much vapor for me to enjoy it myself.

Just wanted to thank everyone in here for all the knowledge and info! safe vapin everyone
Yeah the sweet spot for me seems to be between 0.7 and 0.8. I did do a build around 1 ohm, not bad but didn't have the punch I like.

My first build with it was 0.5, damn rowdy little beast.

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r055co

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Well I bored out one of my Bellus Tank's air flow, spun me up some 32/36 fused Clapton wire. Wrapped a couple of coils @ 0.9 ohm and popped her on the Cricket.

Damn nice Vape!

2e84a60f86dca3d8da39da5854a72925.jpg



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noejuice

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Well done, r055co!

'The vape' can be compared to a living cell; a complete environment. Simplified we have four components:

1) Properties of the juice.
2) Properties of the coil
3) Properties of the top
4) Properties of the bottom

As every lover of the vape knows, changing one component affects all the others synergistically. If the mountain is observed it is altered via the observer.

The seeker of the ideal vape lusts after the cricket because of the purity of the bottom. We control the nicotine levels, so that leaves just the coil and the hardware topper as trouble spots.

Todays drippers are not designed for series vaping. Either the air holes are too low on the barrel (99% of rdas) or in the few top air flows (Sapor, Aeolus etc) the air flow is insufficient. Additionally, no RTDAs have been developed for series vaping.

r055co attacks at the core issue (air flow) and pushes vaping one step closer to perfection. I salute you, sir.
 
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robot zombie

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Well done, r055co!

'The vape' can be compared to a living cell; a complete environment. Simplified we have four components:

1) Properties of the juice.
2) Properties of the coil
3) Properties of the top
4) Properties of the bottom

As every lover of the vape knows, changing one component affects all the others synergistically. If the mountain is observed it is altered via the observer.

The seeker of the ideal vape lusts after the cricket because of the purity of the bottom. We control the nicotine levels, so that leaves just the coil and the hardware topper as trouble spots.

Todays drippers are not designed for series vaping. Either the air holes are too low on the barrel (99% of rdas) or in the few top air flows (Sapor, Aeolus etc) the air flow is insufficient. Additionally, no RTDAs have been developed for series vaping.

r055co attacks at the core issue (air flow) and pushes vaping one step closer to perfection. I salute you, sir.
I disagree on that last point. Any atty can be made to perform favorably with them. I think many atties are, coincidentally, made for vaping in series. Pretty much anything that's designed to be paired with any of the very popular, high-powered regulated box mods out there should do just fine on an unregulated series box. We're vaping in a time when boxes that can kick out 7+ volts are the norm among enthusiasts.

And in practice, 7.8v is probably the upper limit for the NC... ...not much more than most 150+ regulated boxes. Voltage drop from connection points and materials can only be minimized so much. Internal drop is always going to be an obstacle with unregulated vaping. Even the best, purest unregulated mod can't stop battery voltage from dropping under load.

I personally love my sapor in series. The twisted messes with it's fairly low airflow also very performs well. Believe it or not, my favorite atty to vape on in series is a shorty! The snubnose has modest airflow, at most a 1/4" tall chamber, and an almost standard-bore topper, so you would think it can't work with 8.4v, but with dual micro 28g claptons, you get a warm, forcefully flavorful vape with a smooth, cigar-smoke-like amount of body.

Now, I did have trouble finding an ideal vape on any of my atties when I got it, but that was really just a matter of finding new builds to suit the new paradigm. If your atty's airflow layout/size, chamber space, and drip tip bore are failing to adequately control your coil, then the only attack point you're left with is the coil itself, which fortunately, leaves you with virtually infinite options.

But I will say one thing. The irony of the NC's tiny form factor lies in the fact that 25mm+ atties would probably pair better with it than they would any other device that you could get as easily.
 
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CrazyChef

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So I got a Kennedy clone that I would LOVE to use on my Noisy Cricket. Problem is, I'm not sure just how far out the positive pin needs to go. Do you think this is far enough? Here are a couple pics:

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r055co

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So I got a Kennedy clone that I would LOVE to use on my Noisy Cricket. Problem is, I'm not sure just how far out the positive pin needs to go. Do you think this is far enough? Here are a couple pics:

View attachment 41489
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That's too short for my comfort, get a heat sink. That will give you better clearance and protect the Cricket from the heat

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martnargh

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So I got a Kennedy clone that I would LOVE to use on my Noisy Cricket. Problem is, I'm not sure just how far out the positive pin needs to go. Do you think this is far enough? Here are a couple pics:

View attachment 41489
View attachment 41490
Looks good to me. That pin comes out more than my 13h9h does and its fine... misconception about the pins and people thinking they need to tower out of the 510 casing to be proper on a hybrid cap. All those accidents you see with smpls and the like and tanks is because the pins are flat or flushed in the casing... but if it extends just slightly (dont recommend adjustable pins on this one, as has been mentioned) then you are fine.

Anyone else make this an adv device? I go through 3 sets of vtc4s a day with this, usually for 2 or 3 days until i run out of fresh cells to leave the house with, minimum being 4 in the case and fresh set in the mod, any less wont make it through the day for me, my days being 12-16hr workdays.
When this happens i pull out the efusion, but im missin the cricket.
Now an rda i havent used on it as it has a reallly short pin is the petri, anyone have an input on the petri with the cricket?

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robot zombie

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Anyone else make this an adv device? I go through 3 sets of vtc4s a day with this, usually for 2 or 3 days until i run out of fresh cells to leave the house with, minimum being 4 in the case and fresh set in the mod, any less wont make it through the day for me, my days being 12-16hr workdays.
When this happens i pull out the efusion, but im missin the cricket.
Haha, I'm all about that life. If there's anything I always have ready to go, it's my NC and snubnose. From the moment I got the mod, it became the only one I was interested in fucking with. There's just something about it... ...the way it hits, the way it feels in my pocket, and the way it feels in my hand is just so right. I pretty much never use my Sig 150 or any other regulated mods anymore. Nothing else really compares. I still use my SMPL quite often, but that just seems to be missing something unless I practically super sub-ohm with it... ...and I do love that setup too. Aside from the fact that it's hell on batteries, it just isn't quite there. I still use it because I've got a thing for that tube mod vape, but it's definitely been replaced by the cricket as my end-all, be all.

If I had to pick one mod to use exclusively, it would be close between the SMPL and the Cricket, but the Cricket would win out for its increased performance and reduced battery strain - extra maintenance be damned.

I'm just spoiled rotten by the thing at this point. I have to spend 15 minutes every day cleaning the grey juice mucus from the threads, but I don't even mind doing that anymore. I've got the general care down to a science. I get antsy if I don't have the thing up and running for the next day before I go to bed. I'm always on top of my battery cycle. Gotta be...

I go through the same amount of batteries as you in a full day. I have 5 series pairs that I rotate through... ...3 pairs of 25r5's and 2 VTC4's. I drop a fresh pair in in the morning and bring another pair with me to work. That gets me through my 8-10 hour workday. When I get home, I drop em both on the charger @ half an amp and drop in the third pair. The fourth one goes in the next morning and the 5th one leaves the house with me the following day. And this just goes on ad infinitum.

What I'm noticing is that my series pairs are holding up much better than my lone wolves this way. I dropped one of the married 25r5's in my SMPL the other day because 5 single cells just isn't enough sometimes and it hit wayy harder that my same-age, tube-mod-dedicated VTC4's and blue 25r's. All of my mech-dedicated batteries that I got at the exact same time are on their way out, while the NC-dedicated ones still perform basically like new... ...and the NC ones have seen what must be double the runtime at this point! The drop under load is a full .2v lower!

It's just a win-win situation, all around. Can hardly bring myself to break away from the NC at this point.

So I got a Kennedy clone that I would LOVE to use on my Noisy Cricket. Problem is, I'm not sure just how far out the positive pin needs to go. Do you think this is far enough?
In my opinion, yes. Even a little is enough as long as it doesn't sit at an angle or move when you tighten down the atty. You really do have to make sure the top of your battery is fully insulated though. It's close enough to the topper that even a little micro tear in the wrap or top insulator would probably cause arching, if not a dead short. The bigger concern is the positive on the battery not making contact. If it doesn't stick out enough, then it won't short... ...it just won't fire.

That's just my personal opinion on it. I can see how a positive that short could make someone nervous. If you really have doubts about it, then don't take mine or anybody else's word for it. Just don't use it or get a heatsink as @r055co suggested. That's a pretty smart thing to own if you're using hybrids with a wide range of different atties.
 

CrazyChef

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I'm using brand new, never yet been used HB6 batteries. I'll give it a try.
If I don't post for the next couple of days then I wouldn't suggest using a Kennedy clone on the Noisy Cricket. :eek::D:p
 

CrazyChef

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So I put a 2x30K/42K dual fused Clapton build in it, 10/11 wraps. 2.5mm ID. Hovering right around 0.75Ω. Vapes really, really well with e-Wick natural hemp wicking.
 

chris.ardito.3

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Does anyone know the difference between the wismec indestructible,and the original jaybo indestructible.


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CrazyChef

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From what I can tell, the original Jaybo design only had a standard round hole in a singular positive post, not the large elongated one in an enlarged post like in the Wismec.
 

CrazyChef

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Wismec has put out a survey to see if people are interested in additional colors for the Noisy Cricket. CLICK HERE to choose your color preference(s).
 

RonaldStark

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Finally found the sweet spot for flavour and density with mine! Single staggered fused Clapton 32/26 six wraps, still a little hot for my tastes but I'll keep experimenting. Ohmed out at about .5
17d52a02f82764d806558b3900c7bbeb.jpg


Anyone have any experience with cooler tamer builds on the cricket? Maybe 28 or 30 gauge fused claptons or something?


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robot zombie

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Finally found the sweet spot for flavour and density with mine! Single staggered fused Clapton 32/26 six wraps, still a little hot for my tastes but I'll keep experimenting. Ohmed out at about .5
17d52a02f82764d806558b3900c7bbeb.jpg


Anyone have any experience with cooler tamer builds on the cricket? Maybe 28 or 30 gauge fused claptons or something?


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A .5 single has to be pretty hot. You're probably going to want to try duals that ohm above that. 28/38 single cores at .8-.9, maybe. Should keep the ramp-up reasonable, flavor and density will be there, but it won't have enough power for its surface area to get past warm.

You could also try standard dual 26g at around an ohm. With 28, you can get away with going beyond an ohm.

If you're set on that staggered single coil flavor profile, then yeah, you can also do fused 28 or 30.

Whatever you do, you've got to get that resistance up. Realistically, that .5 single is getting 115w.
 
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Model_A_Ford

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I'm interested to see what the brown anodized color looks like, if it's shiny or matte.
 

robot zombie

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I'm interested to see what the brown anodized color looks like, if it's shiny or matte.
Me too. I mean, the red and blue are clearly shiny. Those are what I went for, thinking I can't go wrong. Wasn't curious enough to grab the brown and find out that it's drab, or god forbid, painted. It's really hard to tell without angled lighting shots.
 

chris.ardito.3

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Me too. I mean, the red and blue are clearly shiny. Those are what I went for, thinking I can't go wrong. Wasn't curious enough to grab the brown and find out that it's drab, or god forbid, painted. It's really hard to tell without angled lighting shots.
Is anyone selling the colors ones yet?


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Robert B

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Is anyone selling the colors ones yet?

sourcemore.com & cvapor.com are shipping in a couple weeks, all colors. The brown looks more bronze to me. Jaybo had one on his instagram site and looks really nice. He calls it "bronze", and it looks anodized
 

Robert B

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Who told you that?

I didn't need anyone to tell me that. I have purchased from both places.

I was responding to a post asking me if sourcemore and cvapor were US companies, and I said "no, none of them are". which they aren't.
 

CrazyChef

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Sorry - my bad.
"None of them" would refer to all distributors , whereas "Neither of them" would refer to Sourcemore and CVapor.
 

Bro2032

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Have one in my mailbox today. I really have no interest in it, just thought I'd see what it was about. I'll be looking to part with it soon. I think I'll stick with regulated..
 

Poppa (K)

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Have one in my mailbox today. I really have no interest in it, just thought I'd see what it was about. I'll be looking to part with it soon. I think I'll stick with regulated..
dibs.....lol
 

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