20watt IStick

[huston]

So bought an istick 20w. Have only seen it go to 15.5. wont go higher. Is this due to the atomizer only being 1.8ohm? Due i need thicker juice to vape at higher watts? anything above 4 and it gets a burnt taste. Im using an aerotank v2 on it. My juice is 40pg 60vgThoughts and help appreciated.

 

[rdsok]

The iStick 20w is limited by it's voltage and amperage limits also... to get to a full 20w will require about a 1.4-1.5Ω coil or you will reach one of the other limits ( voltage or amperage ). I believe you exceeded the amp limits of the device since the voltage should go up to about 5.5v and that 15.5w is probably only about 5.2v or there abouts on a 1.8Ω coil.

Having said that... the coils you use also have their own limitations so not all coils or coil heads can go to a full 20w before they taste burnt. The kanger 1.8Ω dual coils are rated for 3.7v-5.5v but you also have to consider how thick your juice is... which is part of the speed the wick can supply juice as well as the amount of air flow to help cool the coil down with. I vape my 30PG/70VG juices in the 10.5w-12.5w range. If I start to notice the wick going dry ( starting to taste burnt ).. I back down my wattage.

 

[huston]

so a thicker juice will help then

 

[Zamazam]

You can always close off the air on the V2 a bit, that helps draw more juice into the coils. I have a V2 and run it on my Provari at 4.1 volts with a 1.8 Ohm coil which is 9.34 watts. The iSticks tend to fire a bit hot, so start at 9 and move up to taste.

 

[Zamazam]

so a thicker juice will help then

Nope, lowering the power along with closing off the air inlet a bit will help. The iStick is not real accurate, you are probably firing the coil at 16-16.5 watts..

 

[Hermit]

Yep, it will only go all the way up to 20W with a coil between 1.2 and 1.5 ohms. However, since it outputs more than it displays, that's actually slightly more than 20W! With your 1.8 ohm coil 15.5W is the expected max, but it will actually be outputting almost 18W at that point. More details on the power: here.

I haven't tried a V2 kanger yet, but I'm a fairly low wattage vaper anyway

 

[rdsok]

so a thicker juice will help then

Thicker juices wick slower... not faster... But if you like the ratio that your juice is at, either turn the power down or as mentioned close off the airflow a little so there is more vacuum created to pull the juice in with.

 

[huston]

yah closed the air port down to smallest setting and lowered volts to 3.4 at 6.4 watts

 

[rdsok]

I start with a low power setting and then finding out where I want the draw to be at... once the draw is set, I start moving the power up until I start getting dry hits and back if off a little from there.

 

[Joshua Iles]

I'm no profeshina waper, but this little thing runs hotter than the screen says. For me running aspire bvc heads (1.8 )about 5-9 Watts depending on my juice and mood at the time. But I like a cooler vape and not something that just tastes hot. Got a new "evod" coming in the mail soon & I'm sure it will be different. May not use it much, but it was a 5 ml vision victory I got on clearance for like $2, if I don't like it, eh, $2.

 

[moecat]

I'm no profeshina waper, but this little thing runs hotter than the screen says. For me running aspire bvc heads (1.8 )about 5-9 Watts depending on my juice and mood at the time. But I like a cooler vape and not something that just tastes hot. Got a new "evod" coming in the mail soon & I'm sure it will be different. May not use it much, but it was a 5 ml vision victory I got on clearance for like $2, if I don't like it, eh, $2.

Some folks ran their own tests here ... http://vapingunderground.com/threads/eleaf-istick-compact-20w-box-mod.17063/

Hopefully the soon-to-be released 30w and 50w models will have addressed this issue.

 

[Eric DeCastro]

I have had to rebuild my coils to be 1.4ohm reading on the istick. I had a 1.6 ohm coil and it wouldn't go to 20 watts. it was annoying at first but finally got it to 1.4ohms and it is constantly at 20w.

 

[BoomStick]

yah closed the air port down to smallest setting and lowered volts to 3.4 at 6.4 watts

Don't have an istick, but devices that have vv and vw only use one at a time. You're either in variable voltage mode OR variable wattage mode. Can't use both at the same time.

 

[rdsok]

Don't have an istick, but devices that have vv and vw only use one at a time. You're either in variable voltage mode OR variable wattage mode. Can't use both at the same time.

I think they meant lowered to 3.4v at 6w ... which would mean they were using about a 1.9Ω .... so why they may not be adjusting both volts and watts at the same time ( ie changing one changes the other )... they certainly both exist at the same time, in fact you can't have one without the other.

 

[BoomStick]

I think they meant lowered to 3.4v at 6w ... which would mean they were using about a 1.9Ω .... so why they may not be adjusting both volts and watts at the same time ( ie changing one changes the other )... they certainly both exist at the same time, in fact you can't have one without the other.

I've seen more than one person who gets a new vv/vw device and doesn't understand the two options for adjusting it. Informing me that you understand is irrelevant, but thanks for sharing.

 

[rdsok]

I've seen more than one person who gets a new vv/vw device and doesn't understand the two options for adjusting it. Informing me that you understand is irrelevant, but thanks for sharing.

I wasn't informing you that I understood... I was clarifying what I thought to be an unclear response that you made

 

[BoomStick]

Don't have an istick, but devices that have vv and vw only use one at a time. You're either in variable voltage mode OR variable wattage mode. Can't use both at the same time.

I think they meant lowered to 3.4v at 6w ... which would mean they were using about a 1.9Ω .... so why they may not be adjusting both volts and watts at the same time ( ie changing one changes the other )... they certainly both exist at the same time, in fact you can't have one without the other.

Of the above, mine seems pretty clear. I'm simply trying to ensure the OP fully understands how their gear works. Many new users of vv/vw devices do not. My statement seems simple and factual to me.

 

[VapeMan12]

Good info i guess this is how all the isticks work 10,20,30,50

 

[huston]

update: i now use a helios clone with 28g dual coil 16 coils per side to get to 1.1 ohm since the istick cant fire below 1 ohm. works awesome. never vape it above about 12 watts.
And i understand the watt/volts. You can change the watts without it changing the volts (according to readout) for a few clicks but then the volts goes up also.

 

[rdsok]

update: i now use a helios clone with 28g dual coil 16 coils per side to get to 1.1 ohm since the istick cant fire below 1 ohm. works awesome. never vape it above about 12 watts.
And i understand the watt/volts. You can change the watts without it changing the volts (according to readout) for a few clicks but then the volts goes up also.

Despite what the display says... you can't change one without a change in the other.. the formula must always balance

 

[Ian91]

My wife was running her other devices at 9.5 watts using an Iclear 30S with 2.1ohm coil. When she got the iStick, I set it to 7watts based on what I read about the iStick and that seems to be pretty well the same as the others at 9.5watts. Not sure why someone would try to run a 1.8ohm coil at 15watts on an iStick. You are asking for burnt taste no matter what juice you use. I run my kayfuns with 1.2ohm coils at 15watts and that seems to be fine and that is on a Cana30. Any higher ohms, I start dropping the wattage down. For me, I find that 4.2-4.3 volts seems to be my sweet spot. Set everything else around that mark.

 

[huston]

actually on the istick i can go up .6 watts without changing the actual volt number, but then the volts might be going up in hundreths and it doesnt read it out