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3fVape/Ulton 502 clone RDA

PoppaVic

Gold Contributor
Member For 4 Years
3fVape shipping is still "sorta fast", but - as usual - their tracking totally sucks.. It arrived today, but their tracking# doesn't reflect USPS and you need to email support to get a number, let alone to shake up their shipper. (@Gina3FVAPE 3fvape should simply email buyers when the USPS tracking number is generated - I'd likely stop bothering Support).

OK, it arrives in a little box - just as Jai has already documented. And, yep: they got the valve screwed-up: a sqounk doesn't get sucked back.

  1. So, I washed it in Dawn and water, first.
  2. There was indeed a teeny, tiny grub inside 510 - removed and bagged..
  3. Gbox/silicone squirted fine - no suckback. After 5 minutes, came back and poured it out, rinsed..
  4. Pulled 510 post and extracted BB and spring - yes, it's marginal quality.
  5. Reassemble, squonks and sucks-back OK - not great, but OK (deck remains wet as top grabs air)
OK, well.. I expected this and wanted to test it. Washed out I went and verified I have a titanium drill that is a little large, but will work. So, can we live w/o the valve?
  1. Built a pair of 26awg SS317L coils. 11 turns each, 3mm ID. (about .43Ω). Install was pretty simple, (Thanks Jai).
  2. Wicking was about as irritating as expected - always hook the bottom to the RIGHT, ok? (yes, his dental-floss routine is something I've used since Nova tanks, but isn't necessary).
  3. Squonks and SOAKS the wick quite well. I did use my hypo to soak coil areas.
  4. LOTSA' spitback.. Pulled the top and wow - yeah, poured into sink.. (I am too used to the tight Wasp Nano pin).
  5. OK, rinsed topcap & dried, reassembled..
    1. You need to be careful with the cap: there is no real EXTERNAL reference to "lined up with coils"
    2. He was also right that the internal 'liner' part is cheapass - I can see places w/o anodizing. (I don't really care as only a dumbass will contact the shell - just look, people).
    3. I tweezered the top of the wick to just cover the nearest top-juice-port.. This will help SLOW it a little and to redirect the outflow, as well as SUCKBACK trying to inhale the cotton.
  6. Well, I am now squonking this $10 trash and smiling..
Really good airflow, (I would hope Jai got that right too). And, the squonk ports are WIDE - it takes very little pressure for very little time to get juice involved.

I've doublechecked my wick-over-upper-ports, and it flows OUT fine, but when I release it is slowing suckback from the top.

Just had a vape and a squonk to check, typed a line and rechecked: the deck itself is no longer soaked/swimming.

I'll try this as-is for a few days and get back to y'all - I may drill it yet, and even reinstall bb/spring, but I am NOT planning on it.. It seems like too much work for a $10 atty.

Thanks, Jai - this ain't bad at all!

PS. An hour or so later, it's squonking fine. If you can afford an Authentic, do it. For me, this is a nice change from the Wasp Nano, but not enough to make me want to shell out twice the price of a whole MOD for an atty.
 
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PoppaVic

Gold Contributor
Member For 4 Years
No point to pics, sheesh - Jai filmed his whole rant.

I may show pics if I drill, but so far it doesn't seem necessary.
 

PoppaVic

Gold Contributor
Member For 4 Years
Well, it spent the day at work, but my SS coils were far too big - flavor was off.

I tried some weird new wire - far too much mass: that compartment is just too small.

Got out the drill and the dremel - seems to almost suck down some juice now. (It was actually sorta' working with wick over the top juice outlets, but I figured I'd give it a whack anyway). I drilled into the base, then cut off the 510 pin where the drill had hit. Not much of an improvement.

In any event, I'm back to Kanthal, 26awg, 2.5mm ID, 6 loops for 0.45Ω and 39w. Plenty of room to get wick in and out, now. We'll see how it works out flavor wise. I do know I am still feeding juice to the top and down the wick and coils, so this is still worth tinkering.
 

PoppaVic

Gold Contributor
Member For 4 Years
Spent the day on the new "previously owned" SX-mini. Got home and pulled the BB from 502 - leaving the spring in place to save coils. Rewicked and primed. Wicks better w/o the BB anyway.
 

PoppaVic

Gold Contributor
Member For 4 Years
Yep. Working OK for a $10 rda.. WIth 0.45Ω, I'm in TC/SS mode on the Gbox 200: actually vaping at 50w/400F. Which is pretty weird for Kanthal. Works fine as well in VPC mode and at 33w in Power mode.

I'd really hope Ulton will fix that stupid valve, but with wick laying over the outlets on the top of the post it's working OK.
 

Pastorfuzz

Gold Contributor
Member For 4 Years
VU Patreon
Yep. Working OK for a $10 rda.. WIth 0.45Ω, I'm in TC/SS mode on the Gbox 200: actually vaping at 50w/400F. Which is pretty weird for Kanthal. Works fine as well in VPC mode and at 33w in Power mode.

I'd really hope Ulton will fix that stupid valve, but with wick laying over the outlets on the top of the post it's working OK.
A friend of mine just got some of them from Fasttech.
He said the stainless ones won't suck back but the Rainbow ones do.
He said the pin is different between the two.
 

PoppaVic

Gold Contributor
Member For 4 Years
wtf.. Seriously? Those bastards..

Well, without the BB and spring (or at least the BB, since I was unable to pull the spring w/o hurting my coils), I seem to be SORT-OF "ok".. I mean, I still loop wick OVER the top-post to direct some juice and the vacc on those holes SHOULD slow with cotton in the way.

I'd love him to post here. I'll go take a gander at FT now.. But, really: I don't think it's an INCREDIBLE vape.. Just different. I actually think the Wasp has better flavor, and my Tobeco Velocity V2 is scheduled for a pair of verticals to test as well.
 

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