Greetings, all. First time posting. I've been vaping for about 2 years. Last week I bought anew eLeaf iStick 40w and an Aspire Nautilus. I'm having trouble with the amount of force required to pull the vapor through. It's like trying to drink a thick milkshake. I can get a decent cloud, but only with effort. I've adjusted it to the largest intake hole, which is like the smallest on my last vape. I've made sure my fingers aren't blocking any holes. I took everything apart and reassembled to make sure it was correct. I even changed out the new coil for another new coil for good measure. The juice is new and worked great on the old vape. I've played with the wattage settings from low to high without any change in effort required to move the air through it. Surely this isn't the intended way to vape. Is my machine faulty, or am I doing something wrong? I'm very disappointed in this purchase. It wasn't exactly cheap. Thanks for any help.
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Amateur needs help with new setup
- Thread starter TinaTheTeacher
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UncleRJ
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First of all, WELCOME TO THE UNDERGROUND
While I have no personal experience with the Nautilus, it should not be that hard to draw through.
I have not doubt that others will give you an informed opinion a bit later on.
While I have no personal experience with the Nautilus, it should not be that hard to draw through.
I have not doubt that others will give you an informed opinion a bit later on.
Thanks for the welcome. I'm looking forward to hearing what others think.
The nautilus is a mtl style tank. It's ment to simulate a cigarette so the draw is much tighter. You could drill out the air flow holes. Even if you did it doesn't have sub ohm coils so the point is moot. You'll have to get a different tank to get an open draw with decent clouds.
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it isn't a cloud machine it is a MTL tank, you take slow deep drags off it like you would when you smoked
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Yes, unfortunately the Nautilus is a much tighter draw... sounds like you may have an earlier version before they made the holes larger. As stated above you can drill a bigger hole if you need to. Also, try a different drip tip... something shorter with a larger bore should help some.
Just our of curiosity... what was your previous setup?
Thanks, everyone. I didn't know that.
My previous setup was a Kanger Tech Subtank Nano with an iStick 30w. I only replaced it because it started spitting. The battery was old, so I thought I'd try something different. I chose the Nautilus because of its 5ml capacity. I feel like I've wasted $100. I can't afford to get a different one now.
My previous setup was a Kanger Tech Subtank Nano with an iStick 30w. I only replaced it because it started spitting. The battery was old, so I thought I'd try something different. I chose the Nautilus because of its 5ml capacity. I feel like I've wasted $100. I can't afford to get a different one now.
My advice is to buy online. That setup you paid 100$ for would cost around 30$ also it's very outa date equipment. Sad to say you definitely got ripped off and personally i'd never go back to them. They prob seen you as an easy target to dump old tech on and make a couple $s. I'd even go as far as leaving bad reviews online to let others know to help them from getting ripped.
If you need advice don't hesitate to ask there's alot of knowledgeable people here. Also just bc you got some spit back from your old tank doesn't mean it needs to be replaced. That only means the coil got flooded and usually will stop on it's own or a defective coil. If you bought the coils from the same shop they prob were selling you bs clone coils.
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I did buy online. I used My Freedom Smokes. The battery was $27, the tank $24, the coils $12, and juice make it $93. I'm an intelligent person. I graduated college with a 3.90, but I haven't found a site that explains all the parts and options in a way I understand.
Case in point: I just switched it over to temperature control (don't know what that is), changed the old tank to the new battery. Then decided to see if the temp thing would help the draw on the Nautilus. Took a hit, and almost choked/gagged. I changed that ruined coil, lowered the temp a lot, and tried again. The draw is much smoother. The battery gave some temp control message and switched itself back to wattage. The manual with this thing just tells how to work the buttons. I have no idea what I'm doing.
On the Nano, I had tried replacing the spitting coil several times. I couldn't get it to stop popping burning oil in my mouth.
Case in point: I just switched it over to temperature control (don't know what that is), changed the old tank to the new battery. Then decided to see if the temp thing would help the draw on the Nautilus. Took a hit, and almost choked/gagged. I changed that ruined coil, lowered the temp a lot, and tried again. The draw is much smoother. The battery gave some temp control message and switched itself back to wattage. The manual with this thing just tells how to work the buttons. I have no idea what I'm doing.
On the Nano, I had tried replacing the spitting coil several times. I couldn't get it to stop popping burning oil in my mouth.
Bummer that your not happy with your new tank but we've all bought stuff that didn't work out so your not alone. The industry has gone to high power and sub ohm so your limited in what you can buy that works at 40 watts that the mod puts out.. The Aspire EVO is a good tank that will work at 40 watts and can be found for 20 bucks on line, the Smok baby beast is a bit more and the X4 coils work well at 40 watts. Temp control won't work with the Nautilus coils. You can only use Nickel coils in TC on that mod. It doesn't support Titanium or Stainless Steel for TC. Lots of people love the Nautilus, shame it's not working out for you. As others said you can always come here for advice lots of good people here willing to help.
Of course we sometimes only add to the confusion.
Of course we sometimes only add to the confusion.
JuicyLucy
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The coils you have for the nautilus may not support TC - especially on an Istick
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MFS is a great site. You don't need to buy a new mod/battery... just a tank... if you want the looser draw you need to look for a subohm tank. The isubs are great and the coils are fairly inexpensive. I personally own 4 Subtank mini's, it's my go to.
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The 1.8ohm and 1.5ohm nautilus coils are not for use with TC... you need to operate in wattage mode.
the only mod I know of that does a version of temp control on nauti coils is the Provari Radius (their "taste control").
The nauti can be a decent tank for flavor...it has helped many get/stay off of cigs, but your kanger tank will work well on your new mod....look into getting some new coils for the kanger (I am a fan of the newish ceramic coils for that tank, lots of flavor).
The nauti can be a decent tank for flavor...it has helped many get/stay off of cigs, but your kanger tank will work well on your new mod....look into getting some new coils for the kanger (I am a fan of the newish ceramic coils for that tank, lots of flavor).
Ok, idk what I did,but something changed. I put the subtank on the new mod, switched to temp control, and played with the numbers. Then I put the Nautilus back on, Burt the coil, put in a new coil, back on wattage, and now it's easier to draw on it. Shrug. It's like you all said: tighter, like a cig. But it's not making veins pop out in my forehead like before (exaggeration). Maybe I loosened something that was twisted too tightly. If it remains like this, I like it. The taste is good.
What about ceramic coils for the subtank? I have such a hard time finding the correct accessories.
And what is temperature control used for?
Is there a gold standard setup that all agree is the best? I don't want to make my own coils.
Thanks again. I love this forum. You guys are so helpful and not at all condescending towards my ignorance.
What about ceramic coils for the subtank? I have such a hard time finding the correct accessories.
And what is temperature control used for?
Is there a gold standard setup that all agree is the best? I don't want to make my own coils.
Thanks again. I love this forum. You guys are so helpful and not at all condescending towards my ignorance.
JuicyLucy
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Keep the coil at a temperature you enjoy, but only some wires are not compatible with TC, and not all mods will run TC in all wire types. I never use it period, but some swear by it *shrugs* And not all mods perform well in TC.
Someone else will come along and explain it better, lol
We were all there - I'm still learning after vaping for years myself.
I don't know the answers to your other questions
Glad it worked out for you. Sounds like it was a bad coil which none of us suggested DUH.
I can't help with coils as I no longer use my Subtank. But you can get Nickel coils if you want to try temp mode. Just buy 1 to try.
Temp control as Lucy said keeps the coil at a constant temp but only works with certain kind of wires. In power (watt) mode the coil keeps heating up as long as your holding the fire button. Also you get no dry/burnt hits in TC. But not all mods do it well.
Asking what is the gold standard set up is like asking who makes the best pizza or who makes the best car. Right now the Smok Alien Kit is the popular set up but that will change as soon as someone comes out with the newest latest and greatest setup.
Enjoy your vaping journey and welcome to the VU.
I can't help with coils as I no longer use my Subtank. But you can get Nickel coils if you want to try temp mode. Just buy 1 to try.
Temp control as Lucy said keeps the coil at a constant temp but only works with certain kind of wires. In power (watt) mode the coil keeps heating up as long as your holding the fire button. Also you get no dry/burnt hits in TC. But not all mods do it well.
Asking what is the gold standard set up is like asking who makes the best pizza or who makes the best car. Right now the Smok Alien Kit is the popular set up but that will change as soon as someone comes out with the newest latest and greatest setup.
Enjoy your vaping journey and welcome to the VU.
as to TC, wire types have what is called "temperature coefficient", which is a measurable and predictable increase in resistance per unit of temperature. This change is constant, so a TC mod when set up properly (initial resistance reading done with coil at room temperature for example) can measure this resistance change, and adjust power output accordingly, to keep the coil at your desired setting. As your wick dries out, the temp will increase rapidly on a non tc mod (dreaded dry hit), but on tc, the mod will cut power, so instead of a dry hit, you will get an anemic vape, letting you know that your wick is dry, time to drip (or let your tanks wicking catch up as the case may be).
The current wire types that most tc mods can use in tc mode are Ni (nickel) Ti (titanium...should be grade 1) and SS (stainless steel, most mods are preset to work with 316L SS, but other grades, like 304 and 420 work..but the temp readings will be off, unless your mod has adjustable "TCR", or temperature coefficient of resistance). If your mod does have tcr, then it is fairly easy to find out on line what tcr setting corresponds with the wire type you are using.
Most premade coils not labeled for TC, are made from kanthal...kanthal doesn't work for tc, as it's temp. coefficient is too low, so the resistance change is too minimal to measure accurately.
If you don't want to try and learn how to build tc coils, there are many tanks on the market that sell premade tc capable coils, if you are interested in trying it out. I would suggest using coils made from SS.....of the 3 main tc wires, ss is the only one that is safe to use in any capacity, tc or regular vw (variable wattage), so if your mod does drop out of tc for some reason, you don't have to worry about it. Both Ni and Ti wires can produce some unhealthy toxins when heated to high.
Hope that helps you with your TC questions.
The current wire types that most tc mods can use in tc mode are Ni (nickel) Ti (titanium...should be grade 1) and SS (stainless steel, most mods are preset to work with 316L SS, but other grades, like 304 and 420 work..but the temp readings will be off, unless your mod has adjustable "TCR", or temperature coefficient of resistance). If your mod does have tcr, then it is fairly easy to find out on line what tcr setting corresponds with the wire type you are using.
Most premade coils not labeled for TC, are made from kanthal...kanthal doesn't work for tc, as it's temp. coefficient is too low, so the resistance change is too minimal to measure accurately.
If you don't want to try and learn how to build tc coils, there are many tanks on the market that sell premade tc capable coils, if you are interested in trying it out. I would suggest using coils made from SS.....of the 3 main tc wires, ss is the only one that is safe to use in any capacity, tc or regular vw (variable wattage), so if your mod does drop out of tc for some reason, you don't have to worry about it. Both Ni and Ti wires can produce some unhealthy toxins when heated to high.
Hope that helps you with your TC questions.
Hey...One of the other newbies here. I got my Coolfire IV TC 18650 all set up and it's working good....still playing around with settings. It came with the ISub tank and a SS 316 coil already inside.
So...I wanted to test it in wattage mode....but the book says "Do not vape TC coils in wattage mode". So is this SS 316 a TC coil? Just read the comment above that SS are ok with either?
Also....I don't care much for this big tip...(drip tip I guess). Can I replace with a smaller one?
So...I wanted to test it in wattage mode....but the book says "Do not vape TC coils in wattage mode". So is this SS 316 a TC coil? Just read the comment above that SS are ok with either?
Also....I don't care much for this big tip...(drip tip I guess). Can I replace with a smaller one?
Tina...I apologize for asking my question on your post. I maybe should have started a new one
But we are kind of in the same boat. I have the hardest time determining what goes with what
But we are kind of in the same boat. I have the hardest time determining what goes with what
ss wires may be used in either tc or vw mode. Ti and Ni wires may only be used in tc mode, running them in vw mode runs the risk of creating toxins.
as long as the tank you are using has a standard "510 drip tip", you may easily swap the large bore for a smaller tip.
Oh good to know. Thank you so much