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Aspire BVC heads, what's your SWEET SPOT?

wildwildwest

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Instead of rubbing alcohol, which is deadly toxic, I use Everclear, a drinkable alcohol that is 95% pure alcohol.

Just don't drink the Everclear, without diluting it. It will eat your stomach up!
 

tombaker

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You can dry burn nautilus BVCs safely. It works, and it works good.
Prior to trying that I've done vodka, boiling and rubbing alcohol, nothing quite worked. I god decent taste for a couple hours then muted again.

There's youtube videos on it but here's how I do it:
1) Clean the coil to remove juice
2) Dry it with hair drier
3) Dry burn it, pulse for 1 second until smoke stops coming out of the head, pulse some more for good measure
4) Clean it good with water again to remove the nasties. this is important, if you don't, you'll ruin the juice you put into your tank, it will taste like vomit because of the ash residues.
5) Dry it again very truougly with a hair drier

I'm on the third day of a cleaned one and the flavor doesn't seem to be going anywhere. It's even, as usual with BVC heads, a little too strong with some juices that need diluting.
I have also disassembled (and wasted) a coil after cleaning it to make sure that the wick and the cotton side things were intact and everything was fine. Not white like brand new but not burned either.


The topic is old but I don't see dry burning mentionned here. You won't be able to do it once they switch to cotton because of the (in my opinion) imaginary issues people had with the wicking material so you might as well do it whçile you can.
I saw the video on the dry burning, I think what is going on is your are burning off the inside cotton, and leaving only the ceramic wick. Don't know if its good or bad, but the inner cotton next to the coils is being burnt away I am nearly certain.
 

TVG

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As far as I know there is no inner cotton part in a bvc coil. I disassembled a couple used ones that I did not clean and I've seen nothing of the sort. I don't remember seeing it in youtube disassembly videos either. There is the inner "ceramic" wick and the outer cotton filler, trapped on the holes, both of these remain intact. It would not makes sense to not put the heat resistant part on the coil anyway.
 

wildwildwest

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I tried dry burning, before I learned (from Aspire) to never do it. I found out why; it ruined the coil. Never tasted good after that.
 

CloudyToday

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Well, I actually used MORE wick than Rip; as well as a larger coil. My coil is surrounded by a ton of wick; all the way to the bottom of the cartridge, and up to the top where aspire ends their wicking material. I was sure to maintain a hole the size of the coil all the way through however; so as to maintain airflow.

My thought on using extra wicking was twofold; on one hand I didn't want it to dry out, whilst on the other hand I wanted to keep gurgling, and flooding at bay. So far, so good!
How do you do this ? do you have video ? I'd like to try it :)
 

TVG

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I tried dry burning, before I learned (from Aspire) to never do it. I found out why; it ruined the coil. Never tasted good after that.
You trust the word of a company on how to extend the life of their consummables?
 

manson

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STOP. All this boiling. Cannibals and witches. I use the Nautilus also. i now, twist my own coils with COTTON. Watch Rip. turn your BVC's horizontal. Much easier then rebuilding vertical. IMO. the wicking material the chinks use is nasty. It gives scratchy throat hits. use good cotton and learn.Don't be a bunch of girls. I can now redo my atomizer in about ten minutes, start to finish. $3.00 per 100ft kanthal vs. $15.00 per 5 pack of atomizers. you do the math.
 

TVG

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This is a dissasembled head that I have dry burned. I overdid it, too hot and popped the coil so I took some pics for information.


http://i.imgur.com/x2IOuZK.jpg

You can see that the inside of the wick is pearly white. This is the area that makes contact with the coil so it is cleaned the most by dry burning. The rest of the coil is resonably clean. The outside cotton is pearly white.


By the way:
WHY DIDN'T ANYONE TELL ME THE NAUTILUS IS A DRIPPER?

http://i.imgur.com/XKa8oGG.jpg

I am at work. As I cleaned and was drying the glass while switching flavors I dropped it and it broke. I was about to go buy a pack of cigs when I had a "why the fuck not" moment. Basically for the reminder of my shift I'm using the nauti mini as a dripper, dropping a few drops inside the coil head, screwing the top part and vaping it like this. It fucking works.

You know, I bought a dripper for juice tasting (which ends up tasting nothing like the same juice on the nauti), when I could have just been doing this right here all along. It kinda makes me angry a bit. I have to put juice often tho, it's not practical use by any means but it's nice for testing flavors.
 

-=Rob=-

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Curious how long you used that coil before you dry burned it and then disassembled it? It still looks pretty clean.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 

TVG

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Probably around 5-6 days. Which is the average I got out of my coils before the flavor started being muted.

That would translate to about 30ml of a couple liquids. I rotate liquids often, which could be why my coils start being muted way too fast.
 

-=Rob=-

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Looks clean to have that much juice through it. I use my coils much longer than that, but I don't change the juice I use in them. I have many tanks so pretty much dedicate them to one flavor, I have quite a few ADV flavors I like.


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TVG

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It doesn't seem unreasonable to me. Think about what happens to a sillica wick in a dripper when dry burned in a dripper. It kind of "cleans". I also forgot to mention I rinsed the coils anyway even if they were broken, to simulate what I usually do and to see the wick in the state it is when I'm done with the process.
 
I don't know if this was said yet but I have noticed ape coils take a long time to satiate the higher the vg especially the nautilus coils. They need too change to Japanese cotton. My kanger tanks drink high vg dual coil super cloud and flavor high vg to 50/50. So I suggest using lower vg in aspire tanks and their new BVC works much better with high vg and flow again tho kanger is so far proving superior.
 
Split the BVC apart to rebuild it. Break off the two tabs on the lower half. Make your new coil as desired ( I use 3/32 bit with 28 awg Kanthal) then wrap ( not very tightly) it in a length of (japanese/organic pad) cotton the same width as the coil, until it is the same size as the hole in the atomizer. Place vertically in atomizer and replace bottom half that you broke the tabs off of. Make sure the wick is covering all 4 holes in the atomizer and pre juice the cotton. No more inner / outer materials, just all wick with zero gurgling or leaking. Simple , easy and perfect every time once you have figured out the nuances a bit.
 
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I am quite new to vaping and am slowly getting to know my Nautilus on a MVP3.0. I have already worked out that different juices need different approaches One variable that doesn't seem to be mentioned here is the style of vaping. Someone who draws long and slow is creating a different airflow through the coil than another person who tends to do shorter, sharper pulls. I would imagine this might have an effect on coil cooling and therefore the optimum wattage to vape at. This means that two people with the same juice and the same setup might have quite different 'sweet spots'.
Does this make any sense?
 

mprice14

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I've just bought an aspire et as a spare tank and am running on an ipv d2 mini. I bought 2.1 ohm coils and have it at 10w which is fine. My query however is the coil that was supplied with it. It's registering 3.5ohms but says 1.8 on the coil and i cant see that aspire make a 3.5? It has aspire written on it. Does this sound right?

I normally use a kangertech mini but there's too much vape when driving hence the clearomizer

Sent from my SM-T800 using Tapatalk
 

ToxicSludge

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I am quite new to vaping and am slowly getting to know my Nautilus on a MVP3.0. I have already worked out that different juices need different approaches One variable that doesn't seem to be mentioned here is the style of vaping. Someone who draws long and slow is creating a different airflow through the coil than another person who tends to do shorter, sharper pulls. I would imagine this might have an effect on coil cooling and therefore the optimum wattage to vape at. This means that two people with the same juice and the same setup might have quite different 'sweet spots'.
Does this make any sense?


Makes perfect sense.I'm one to take the long slow pulls,and one of my sons tries to inhale the whole thing in milliseconds,lol.I would guess the truism here would be,"different tokes,for different folks" ;}>
 

ToxicSludge

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I've just bought an aspire et as a spare tank and am running on an ipv d2 mini. I bought 2.1 ohm coils and have it at 10w which is fine. My query however is the coil that was supplied with it. It's registering 3.5ohms but says 1.8 on the coil and i cant see that aspire make a 3.5? It has aspire written on it. Does this sound right?

I normally use a kangertech mini but there's too much vape when driving hence the clearomizer

Sent from my SM-T800 using Tapatalk


Does your ipv d2 mini have an adjustable center pin? It seems like your tank isn't making full contact with the center pin on your mod.IF,it's not adjustable,make sure your screwing the tank on all the way,DON'T force it.Also,since I am not familiar with your mod,does it have an adjustable seat where the tank sits down flush with?
 

mprice14

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No I don't think so but I can check that. I use an ego connector to put it on the ipv

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mprice14

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I switched it to another coil and it works and registers as it should

Sent from my GT-I9505 using Tapatalk
 
Nautilus mini 5-7 watts 50/50 chain vaping, always got at least two weeks from the 1.8 coils. Had to get 1.6 last order, very disappointed as im getting a week at best and some that burn out in a day. This has me looking into something rebuildable.
 

stevegmu

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1.8 ohm coil heads at 7 watts...
 

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