Bachelor Nano RTA gets entirely too hot..

[AbztraK]

Hi this is my 2nd post here. Thanks for taking time to help each other vape community.

I am trying to break away from pre-made coils for the obvious reasons. Saving money. Better flavor. I was looking for a bachelor RTA because they were simple and already came with pre wicked coils as I have not tried an RDA yet or building anything of any sort so far.

I couldn't find the normal sized Bachelor so I bought the Nano size. And I found the vapor gets entirely too hot. Not just really warm but so hot that my lips naturally let go and it feels like if I would have kept going I would have burned them. And on two occasions after I had to let go the coil popped and some of that way too hot juice popped out on my face.

I have looked this up and nobody else seems to be having this sort of problem. At least not with the bachelor Nano. Everybody has good things to say about it so I was wondering was I doing something wrong?

I noticed that the pre-installed coil was an ni200. And maybe I need to Vape in temperature control mode instead of wattage. But that is just a theory I don't know anything about temperature control or coils or really any of that stuff.

If an experienced RTA user or someone who owns a bachelor Nano and knows how to work it could chime in and help me that would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance

 

[skt239]

Yeah, you definitely need to be using ni200 (nickel) coils on temp control. Do you have any non - ni200 coils that came with it ? What type of mod are you using.

 

[HondaDavidson]

Hot vapor IS from a hot coil... too much wattage for the amount of metal used. Try adding a wrap and cutting the wattage by 20%.

What kind of builds you doing and how many watts do you want to run?

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[HondaDavidson]

Ni200 or nickel and titanium are for TC only.. SS Nichrome and Kanthal are VV or VW or unregulated... SS is also OK for TC use. A limited number of mods can TC on nichrome.

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[skt239]

Looking at the nano online, it comes with a ni200 coil and a .5 kanthal coil. If you still have the .5, try that. Why they would pre-install a ni200 coil is beyond me.

 

[HondaDavidson]

Well the nickel coil will be very hot in VW mode.... the Kanthal coil should error out in TC modes of most mods.... setting to TC mode should answer which wire question.


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[HondaDavidson]

Of I had that tank I would get some 28 or 30 gauge SS wire.... then using Steam-engine.org as a guide build coils the the Heat flux was in the 200 range at 25 watts or so. Noting I like a restricted lung / loose MTL draw.

I would do the SS wire because it can be used in all modes.... Kanthal or Nichrome would be my preference for VV VW or unregulated though...

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[pescadore]

Temperature Control only with Ni200 coil

 

[AbztraK]

Yeah, you definitely need to be using ni200 (nickel) coils on temp control. Do you have any non - ni200 coils that came with it ? What type of mod are you using.

Mod is voopoo drag. I think a non ni200 did come with it. Do you think that would be better?

Also I left this thing overnight and the entire tank leaked out everywhere.... Starting to think this thing is just a huge fail of a product

 

[skt239]

Mod is voopoo drag. I think a non ni200 did come with it. Do you think that would be better?

Also I left this thing overnight and the entire tank leaked out everywhere.... Starting to think this thing is just a huge fail of a product

Yes. Chuck the ni200 and install the other coil.

 

[Letitia9]

Don't give up on the rta just yet. Learning to use a rta takes time, wicking is everything. Put kanthal coil in and go from there. Watch some YT and get some tips you can watch. If you want a no leak rta, start with an OBS Engine Nano.

 

[HondaDavidson]

If you ran the nickel coil in VW mode you likely burned the wick.... That will lead to leaks alone.

 

[Synphul]

I haven't used the nano, as I understand it's the bachelor just with a shorter chimney and glass. I have the full size bachelor and found it best to run larger coils around 4mm or slightly larger. That way there's plenty of cotton. I snipped the cotton so it just barely sticks out past the slots in the base, fluffing it to make sure it completely fills those slots. If there's a gap at all or the ends of the wick get munched down below the top of the base edges (top of the U shaped slots) it will leak. The wick is the only thing keeping juice from running through the grooved slots in the base.

If you're running thinner juice like 60/40 or 50/50 you may not need the juice flow wide open. The only real leaks I had were when there wasn't enough wick or from the top seal there would be a little drop of juice accumulated ever now and then. The nice thing if you have wick issues, the juice flow shuts off when you take the tank off so you can just set the tank portion aside and fiddle with the coil/wick.

As others suggested, ni200 is nickel, meant for temp control not wattage. If any coil is making the vape that hot there's an issue and the power is too high. Definitely turn it down. I didn't use either of the coils it came with, just used stainless. 26ga, 28ga or 28ga twisted worked well in it. Usually around 6-8 wraps with 26ga single or 28ga twisted ss316L at 4mm id spaced. For my heat preference (more mild/warm than hot) I ran them around 30w give or take. Just be sure to leave the legs of the coil a bit longer, the postless holes are fairly deep and you want the coil even with those slots for the wick. The top of my coils were slightly higher than the ridge of the base.