Best low ohm mech setup

[Guyando115]

Hey Im newish to building on mechs, I wanna keep my builds around .14, any suggestions as to best setup/wire to use? I'm currently using a single ss316l fused Clapton 24x2/32. Wondering if single wrap would be better and if so ss? Ni80? Gauge? Thank you.

 

[Carambrda]

Try a dual coil triple core fused clapton 28g Ni80 / 38g Ni80, 2.5mm ID, 4.5 wraps... use a key ring with two pieces of masking tape wrapped around it (one piece on each side of the core wires) to hold the core wires flat; the key ring will gently wobble itself from the drill side of the core wires toward the swivel side so that you don't even need to pause your drill. For easy claptoning such relatively thin wire, you can use the ziploc technique: keep your spool of wrap wire in a half-closed ziploc bag standing upright in a box on the floor, as doing that will also help you to keep the angle straight.

 

[Guyando115]

I've got some 26/36 ni80 triple core already made. Will that do?

 

[Guyando115]

That's gonna be a pretty low ohm build Eh? Safe with vtc5a's?

 

[Guyando115]

Gonna be round .1, will that be a fast ramp up time, it's gonna sacrifice flavour a bit. Ni80s more of a comp wire right? Big clouds.

 

[CactusFanaticus]

Preferences are definitely subjective,but here’s mine. Out of every build I’ve tried my all time favorite is dual coil dual core SS 316L or 317l 26g fused claptons wrapped in 36 or above (usually use 38) 6 wraps. Around.13 for the pair, stopped looking for anything different love this build; great for tubes, parallel or regulated.

 

[Guyando115]

That's pretty much what I use on a reg mod, fused Clapton 316l 24/32 or 26/30. Or plain old 24/32 Clapton. There is a slight ramp up time with a single fused Clapton, 3 or 4 wraps on a single 18650 mech so I was wondering if there was a good alternative. I'm not willing to sacrifice flavour for cloud chasing. Not my thing. I'll probably go back to a reg mod, can't beat the power! Thanks for your advice, never heard of making Claptons that way. Have to give it a try!

 

[CactusFanaticus]

A quick tip on the outer wraps, the reasoning behind the higher gauge wrap is less ramp up along with more surface area for flavor. The outer wrap really isn’t part of the circuit and act more as a heat sink being electricity follows the path of least resistance (the cores) the smaller the wire/ higher the gauge, the less coil mass to heat = faster ramp up.

Most notice quite the difference, even on a regulated mod but especially with mechs, with higher gauge wraps

 

[Guyando115]

Thanks, it's a balancing act in trying to keep the ohms down and ramp up time. I made same coils out of ss316l 26 gauge and they heat up real fast but ohms were high so no throat hit. Actually I think they were parralels. I'll play around. Thanks again.

 

[Guyando115]

P. S there's nowhere in Australia to get good wire so I've tried advanced vape supplies in states and crazy wire in UK. Any suggestions or stick with these guys? Big thanks people.

 

[inspects]

https://temcoindustrial.com/shop/wire-cable-accessories/resistance-wire may ship to AU.

 

[Guyando115]

Thanks I'll have a look.

 

[Guyando115]

While I can make my own clapton/fused Clapton, even alien coils, I'm lazy! Happy to pay a little bit more for someone else to do it. Rolls of Clapton that is, not handmade individual coils for $15 each. That's ridiculous. I might stick with advanced vape. Happy with them. Thanks anyway.

 

[Guyando115]

1 last question, sanyos 20700a's are absolutely impossible to find in Australia. Can anyone point me in the right direction? I'm using vtc5a's, which are great but I'd love to try the Sanyo. This would be a huge help. Thanks.

 

[Carambrda]

On the mech I use a .11 ohms dual coil build (aliens 27g Ni80 / 36g Ni80, 2.5mm ID, 4.5 wraps) on the VTC5A and the iJoy 5-legged 20700. Here in Belgium the Sanyo NCR20700A is impossible to find too... the Vapcell Gold is a rewrap of it according to Mooch, but I can't seem to find that one either.

The iJoy 5-legged 20700 works really well with this build TBH. But yeah, initially the VTC5A hits quite a bit harder... just not for very long so that's why I always keep coming back to both options depending on the mood I'm in.

 

[Guyando115]

Seems like you can only get the sanyos if your in the industry! They get used for other things before Vaping, solar storage etc. I've only used aliens on a reg mod, I'd expect a bit of ramp up time on a mech? And your swapping out batteries fairly often? I haven't tried ni80 aliens though. Although I have used tricore fused Clapton ni80, which is an alien right?

 

[Guyando115]

Or is there a reason companies differentiate between tricore and aliens? Same thing to me.

 

[Carambrda]

They're in the 20V 6.0Ah "XR" battery packs by Dewalt (model DCB 206). https://syonyk.blogspot.com/2017/04/dewalt-20v-max-60ah-pack-teardown.html However, utmost care should be taken when removing a spot welded battery from a battery pack, so...

The ramp up time on a mech with those aliens I mentioned is actually pretty short. Just don't expect to get a really warm vape from them, but they're excellent flavor and reasonable clouds... my personal favorite choice for dual coil mode on the single battery mech. For a warmer vape I prefer series mech and paraseries (Vaperz Cloud HoG v3/v3.1... in fact I own 3 of them, all 3 are limited editions), and occasionally my RX300 with ArcticFox and a custom power curve... the latter option sometimes is the best easiest way to tame that ramp up time you typically get from bigger coil builds like a fat staple build or staple staggered fused claptons. I tend to switch somewhat frequently between various different build types, both as a means to explore coil building and to add a good amount of variation to the vape experience. You can discuss flavor till Easter falls on the same day as Christmas, but in the end the size and the warmth/wetness/texture of the cloud still matters also... I mean, why should I settle for flavor when I can have everything else in addition to it? I'm not a cloud chaser in any way... it's just that it's impossible for me to truly enjoy good flavor without strong, saturated, wet clouds.

Yes, regular aliens are 3-core, but the difference between aliens and 3-core fused claptons is in the technique you use for adding your wrap wire around the cores. As an example, here's a 7-core alien in my 30mm Deathtrap RDA:

 

[Guyando115]

Well done finding those batteries in the dewalt but Umm, bit dodgy taking them out if spot welded? Worth looking into. I haven't bought 1 of those vaperzcloud because very expensive to buy here but a series mech would solve the problem. I switch coils every few weeks cos the ohms creep up in time and I start to notice the lack of wattage in my little pulse mod. Great little rda though. Excellent for single coils. I bought a goon 1.5 because 528 was recommended to me but I wasn't impressed with flavour. Then I found out the person who recommended it didn't like the 1.5 either and had gone back to original goon. Which is impossible to find now! I started Vaping only 15 months ago so been a steep learning curve! Always happy for advice and tips.

 

[Guyando115]

Wow that battery guy knows his shit! And 10 sanyos!! Security screws may be a slight problem but I like a challenge. Thank you I'm gonna try find one of these!

 

[Guyando115]

P. P. S, I just, had a look at the hog, I didn't realise it was a 4 battery mech! That's crazy! And I thought 3 cells was nuts.Wow!!

 

[Guyando115]

That's a massive single coil rda you've got there. Haven't heard of a death trap before. Isn't doin low builds a bit dangerous on a series mech? Double wattage etc. I'm using a wismec predator ATM which has the same chip as your rx. I'd like to get a series mech and vaperzcloud look like a good brand.

 

[Carambrda]

Yeah, it sure is dodgy trying to take them out if they're spot welded. If something goes wrong... boom!

One of my favorite series mechs is the Vaperz Cloud XXX (with the separately sold extension tube on it), albeit only if the bottom section on it uses the "Comp-S" switch, not the "VC Tech" switch. I use iJoy 5-legged 20700 batteries in mine. The run time with 2 of these batteries in a series mech is much better when compared to 18650 batteries, and the fact these batteries hit less hard than the VTC5A doesn't necessarily make them a bad choice. Like I said, it really doesn't take very long before the iJoy 5-legged 20700 catches up on the VTC5A due to the longer run time of the former. But I probably should note, a lot will change after the Samsung 30T and 40T (21700 batteries) reach the consumer market... despite there currently are no 21700 batteries available to us worth buying.

I own both the original 24mm Goon and the Goon 1.5 (both of them are authentic). The drip tip on them is holding back the flavor significantly. The best way to fix that problem IMO is to put on a Half Moon Mods acrylic drip tip. (Yes, they are quite expensive for a drip tip, but no, you won't be wasting your money if you grab one of them.) Another thing IMO is you need to put in a sufficiently big coil build (that requires reasonably high wattages) or else the flavor gets diluted also. Goons are not intended for tootle puffers, that I can assure. Finally, here's another tip: let the ends of the wicks meet each other against the bottom of the deck and uniformly spread them out to form a thin carpet (just make sure no cotton is touching the outside of the coil at all, though...).

As for 4 batteries in a mech... it's just a bit clunky. lol

 

[Guyando115]

Yeah I sort of got that impression with goon, I'll look into that drip tip, thanks for that. I didn't know about that at all. I usually take advantage of large area in, goon, I've got a dual core 6 wrap fused Clapton 316l in it ATM but flavour still isn't as good as I would like. I do put cotton in the way you suggested so need to try the drip tip. I was gonna get rx but I thought 3 batteries would be too big so, stuck with the predator which works great. I've heard about that Samsung battery so yeah, wait and see. If a device can take a 20700 will it also fit a 21700?

 

[Guyando115]

$15us for a drip tip? Ouch. But if it fixes my goon, which cost 75, then it's worth it. I'll get 1 or 2.

 

[Carambrda]

Only 6 wraps???

 

[Guyando115]

Haha Smartarse! That thing is huge! Doing death wish proud! I found an Aussie company that sells the drip tips,$25 plus $10 for postage. But, if it gets me usin my goon again I'll give it a go. Maybe a chubby or fat Bastard. Cool names.

 

[Carambrda]

Well I have to admit those 9.5 wraps fused claptons in my Goon 1.5 were a bit over-zealous, but nevertheless the build fits.

At the local B&M store around where I live these drip tips are ~20 Euros. I currently own 4 of them (Fat Bastard RDA fit).

 

[Guyando115]

You by any chance a millionaire? Or you were before you found Vaping? . The city I live in has 2 or 3 really crap vape stores and it's illegal to sell nic juice in Australia so I have to import everything from the states. Ridiculous! I wait 2 weeks for all my gear! I'm assuming the fat Bastards are the short fat 810s? They're the sort I'll probably get. Maybe not 4!

 

[Carambrda]

You by any chance a millionaire? Or you were before you found Vaping? . The city I live in has 2 or 3 really crap vape stores and it's illegal to sell nic juice in Australia so I have to import everything from the states. Ridiculous! I wait 2 weeks for all my gear! I'm assuming the fat Bastards are the short fat 810s? They're the sort I'll probably get. Maybe not 4!

No, I'm not a millionaire... I just have a weak spot for beautiful, well-designed mech mods. My latest additions were the FUK 182021 Scoundrels mod (stacked, up to dual 21700 batteries in series) and the HoG v3.1 "The Four Horsemen" cerakoted blood stain.

Yes, the drip tips I mentioned are the short 810 ones without the O-rings, just like this one:

 

[Guyando115]

I googled them, they are some serious mods. Very cool. I like the look of that drip tip, I've got a gold and silver goon, both 1.5, long story. I'll be picking out one or 2 of those drip tips today. Just have to wait 2 weeks.

 

[Guyando115]

Can you recommend a vaper cloud product that is still available? Maybe a series tube MOD? Or are they all good?

 

[Guyando115]

P. S, you may have missed a question earlier, will a 21700 fit in a device that takes 20700's? 1mm wider so maybe?

 

[Carambrda]

That's the downside with Vaperz Cloud... they keep selling most of their products much faster than they can make 'em. lol Only yesterday I managed to snag another Buddha V4. I believe there's still some XXX mods and matching extension tubes in stock at various places. They're mid-priced and well worth getting IMO. I own 2 of them, each one with the matching extension piece (and the upgraded bottom section for my brass one). The XXX (or 11:11) can accept both 18650 and 20700 batteries, as well as 20650 such as the LG HG6.

Yeah sorry I forgot about that question... the difference between 20700 and 21700 is only 1mm in diameter so I bet it won't be a problem with many 20700 supporting mods, as the iJoy 5-legged 20700 has a thicker than usual shrink wrap so if you still got a little bit of spacing around that one it probably might work, but unfortunately a lot of tube mod makers know we don't like battery rattle so that's why they often tend to make it as small as they possibly can. My only mod that can "officially" support 21700 is my FUK 182021. 10 out of my 19 mech mods are 18650 only, 8 are up to 20700... I don't think anyone else around here but me has collected that many 20700 mods.

 

[Guyando115]

Thanks, I expected to hear that tube mods wouldn't accept 21700s cos of the rattle but box mechs might be OK. Which is a moot point as there aren't any goods around. Yet. I ordered myself a half moon drip tip form an Aussie Co and is due in 48 hours. I put new coils in goon, new cotton - I use cotton bacon btw, so I'll let you know how I go. I'm praying it makes a difference! The Clapton wire I used is from the crazy wire Co. in the UK. Do you know of them? I'll go google those mods now. The pulse was a good introduction but I think it's time for an upgrade. Also, you have any opinion on the drop rda? Thanks again for the advice, I really appreciate it.

 

[Guyando115]

They still have some xxx's 11:11, beautiful looking device. Would look great with my gold goon. 1 question, what does the comp switch do? Those are sold out but I'm curious. Also, should I get an extension tube straight away? Save on postage.

 

[Carambrda]

Well as someone recently pointed out in another thread the Samsung 30T is available at https://voltaplex.com/samsung-30t-21700-battery-inr21700-30t (only in bulk it seems). But there aren't that many 21700 tube mechs out there yet, and AFAIK with the XXX/11:11 the 21700 batteries just won't fit so another option to maybe consider instead would be the Vaperz Cloud Sarov mod.

The Comp-S switch is essentially an improvement over their older VC Tech switch, as there's no arcing and no misfires with the Comp-S, whereas, if you use it with 2 batteries in series configuration, the VC Tech does arc, and eventually it starts to misfire as a result from that. The brass version of the XXX uses the VC Tech, but I also bought the separately sold brass bottom section for it, and that uses the Comp-S. AFAIK the brass XXX was the last mod that they released with a VC Tech, and, at the same time also, it was world's first 20700 tube mod... AFAIK all the later versions/variants (copper, white brass, stainless, black, anodized aluminum blue or purple or red, 11:11, UK LE, Sarov) all use the Comp-S.

Whether or not you need the extension piece is entirely for you to decide... series mechs are a very different style of both coil building and vaping. I like both styles, but not everyone likes what I like. With 2 iJoy 5-legged 20700 batteries in series, I can vape pretty much all day without me having to change out the batteries... this is a LOT longer than with 2 Sony VTC5A batteries in series. In single battery configuration, this difference is not that huge, but nevertheless, it's there─albeit with a single battery you can argue that you still prefer the VTC5A because it initially hits harder than any 20700 available to us, which, as a matter of true fact, it does, BUT... like I said up thread, it doesn't take very long until the 5-legged iJoy 20700 catches up.

 

[Guyando115]

OK cool, I think I'll order the 11:11, obviously made sooo much better than the pulse that I expect it will hit harder. Less voltage drop etc. They've sold out of the comp switch version so don't know what to do about that. I'll go back and have another look. Maybe get the separate piece as you did. I'll let you know how I go.

 

[Guyando115]

When it comes to protruding 510 pins, is there a rule of thumb re hybrids? Or is it just that either the pin protrudes or doesn't? Would the goon be fine for a hybrid? Many thanks and sorry to keep hassling you with questions.

 

[Guyando115]

So, I got my drip tip, put new 24/32 ss 6wrap coils in goon and flavour was rubbish. Took coils out and put 24/30 kanthals in it and flavour is excellent. The ss I got was from crazy wire company so I'm guessing their wire is crap. The kanthal build I have in it, with drip tip, is awesome. Doesn't make sense. Half moon Drip tip compared to the 1 that comes with goon is a bit better. Worth it though. Any comment on crazy wire Co?

 

[Carambrda]

The 11:11 comes standard with the Comp-S switch. https://vaperzcloud.com/products/11-11-mod

The pin should protrude at least 1mm to be safe for hybrid mechs... Goon is safe for hybrid mechs. No problemo.

 

[Carambrda]

I have several spools of wire by Crazy Wire Company, mostly Nichrome80 and one or two Kanthal A1. I never use SS because it wears out way too fast, and it adds to the ramp up time when compared to Nichrome80. For a warm vape, Kanthal A1 cores with Nichrome80 wrap wire has my preference. For staple coil builds, .4×.1 Nichrome80 ribbon also works. I have stopped buying wire by Crazy Wire Company many months ago, as their spooling techniques are downright horrible. There's several kinks in the wire, there's usually a lot of twist in the wire, and their round wire is kind of coarse so not very round IMO at all.

 

[Guyando115]

I just put 2 8wrap26/30 fused Claptons in goon, ss316l, from geekvape, and flavour is still better with kanthal! In my pulse ss flavour is great. Doesn't make sense! Ohms creep up with Ss also in mech but flavour is good so I change it every 2 or 3 weeks. Do you make your own coils or who do you get yours from? The drip tip looks almost identical to goon drip tip but flavour is a bit better with it. I've never used kanthal on my mech cos ohms are so high. Or are you OK with that cos you use series mech?

 

[Carambrda]

The lowest gauge I'll ever use for wrap wire is 36g. 30g is more suitable for core wires than it is for wrap wire. Different RDAs have different effects on flavor. There's an interaction of sorts between each different RDA and different coil builds, and the positioning of the coils as well as the airflow adjustments also play a part so if the coil build is a poor match for the RDA in question and or something's not quite right with the positioning and or airflow, then the choice of drip tip isn't going to magically fix that, but instead, if all is done right with the Goon you should be able to notice that the difference between the Half Moon Mods and the stock drip tip that comes with the Goon is not subtle. I build my own coils of various types, but I get Nichrome80 aliens for free from a friend who can build aliens faster and more efficiently than I can so I guess I tend to be a little bit of a slacker in that regard.

As for Kanthal A1, on a single battery mech I never use it, but on a series or paraseries mech it definitely has its merits─depending on what you are looking for. For me, personally, Kanthal A1 ribbon wire works extraordinarily well in staple staggered fused claptons with Kanthal A1 frames and Nichrome80 wrap... on a series mech these coils work superbly in single coil mode if using .3×.1 ribbon, 29g frames, and 38g wrap.

 

[Guyando115]

After putting goon back on predator I remembered just how good it is! Single battery mechs are pretty pissy in comparison. After playing around I've noticed the diff the half moon makes - it is considerable. Thanks for putting me on to them. The tricore ni80 I have is a bit too much. Fused Clapton would be better. I might try advanced vape supplies, you heard of them? I don't want to pay $15 for a pair of coils, that's ridiculous. I might have to go back to making them myself. Does your mate sell coils? I'm lazy too!

 

[Guyando115]

I'm tossing up between buying the 11:11 with extension, or just keep using my predator. The mech looks great but performance wise is there a benefit to mechs over reg mods I don't know about? Keeping in mind I've only been Vaping for 15 months or so.

 

[Guyando115]

When you say ribbon, is that different from wire? I've found a Co that makes kanthal coils wrapped in ni80, but on a reg MOD would they be any better than kanthal wrapped with kanthal?

 

[Carambrda]

Single battery mechs are awesome... any and all well-engineered mechs are the tits, just need to figure out the right coil builds for use on mechs like I already tried to explain. I'm not experienced enough at coil building nor at designing them to always get each and every one of my coil builds right the first time in this regard so that's one reason why I still like to use a regulated mod (RX300) from time to time. ArcticFox firmware with the NToolbox software allows for a custom power curve that can be used for a preheat to help tame the ramp up time of a coil build, and it does that in a very user-friendly fashion as well as it is fast and easy to set up so it saves me from having/wanting to throw a perfectly good coil build in the trash. As a cool bonus, using the power curve also helps me to gain more insight as for how a certain build type can perform overall vs another type vs in another RDA so it is a welcome learning tool especially if you're looking to expand your skills and boost your motivation about advanced coils, i.e. it's the complete opposite of temp control. The latter IMO is for those who are incapable/unwilling to understand and enjoy the true essence of the advanced coils related realm in vaping. You should give this firmware and software a shot on your Predator if you haven't already. I'll teach you how to set up your own custom power curve if you like.

I'm glad to hear you like your new drip tip. Advanced vape supplies... I haven't used them, but I live on the other side of the globe (Belgium). $15 (AUD?) is not an unfair price to ask for a pair of coils if the quality is real. Yeah, my mate sells those Nichrome80 aliens that he makes... at 15 Euros/pair, no shipping.

Ribbon wire is like its name suggests... .5×.1 ribbon is the most commonly found size, but for more delicate builds it is quite common to go for .4×1, .3×.1, or .2×.1 ribbon. For flavor, some classic examples of coil build types that use ribbon are staples, staple staggered fused claptons, and framed aliens (fraliens). I never use Kanthal for my wrap wire. Choosing Kanthal for anything other than your core wires is generally not a very good idea IMO, but nevertheless I believe there can be some exceptions to this... adding too much Kanthal will result in a too long ramp up time, as this type of metal heats up much slower than Nichrome80. The latter actually even heats up, and cools back down, a tad faster than SS316L... despite some people like to argue that it doesn't─but the publicized specs don't lie, and neither did the comparison test result from someone who still wouldn't believe me after I kept saying so. lol

 

[Carambrda]

Keeping in mind I've only been Vaping for 15 months or so.

I've only been vaping for 13 months and 3½ days.

 

[Guyando115]

13 months? Wow, you've picked it up quickly. Arctic fox Eh? I'll google it today and see if I can set it up. The reason I bagged my single battery mech Vs predator is that regardless of builds I cannot replicate the warm wet vape I get from predator. And it works the same the whole time, doesn't drop off. I think I need to buy a quality mech. That's the problem. 15 euros is more than 20aud. I understand the time that goes into them so I know they're worth it but I think I'll have to go back to making them myself. I'll get back to you re arctic fox.