Hi there. New to vaping. I started with a nautilus, and want something with more airflow. I want a tank that will give clouds airflow and flavor. This brought me to the sub ohm tanks, and there are a lot. At then end of my research, I think I want to go with that tank. 1)do you have a better recommendation? And 2, what bottom half should I use for it? At some point I want to get a dripper, but heard it's unsafe to use the sub ohm with that. So what do you suggest? I was thinking a box mod but don't really like them. So I saw the Coolfire IV and liked that one. So when that comes out I might get it. What are your thoughts with that box? And lastly, if I don't get a box, what other option do I have to power the tank? Thanks. Also if you could give me a quick rundown on safety. Thank you for your help I appreciate it. I want to get this setup ASAP, som I'm going to die eagerly waiting. Meanwhile, Ill vape on my aspire. . Cheers and happy vaping
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BEST SUB OHM TANK BUILD
- Thread starter Swanky
- Start date
If you use a subohm tank on a vv box mod battery safety is less of an issue assuming you use good batteries (samsung 25Rs for example). So you might consider something like an IPV mini 2 (70 watt) which would run the Arctic as high as you want to go. Since you're dealing with prebuilt coils you won't have to worry about building coils. Does that help? There are a ton of box mods you can choose from, but I have the IPV Mini 2 and like it (there are also some great ones by Sigelei etc).
Box mods with replaceable batteries might have less issues than those with built in batteries, but you will have to buy the batteries and a good charger.
Where people are getting into trouble is generally with mech mods, poor batteries, and builds with too low of a resistance for the batteries.
Box mods with replaceable batteries might have less issues than those with built in batteries, but you will have to buy the batteries and a good charger.
Where people are getting into trouble is generally with mech mods, poor batteries, and builds with too low of a resistance for the batteries.
The arctic can use and horizon supplies coils as low as .2 ohm if im not mistaken for that tank...If you are after a single cell battery mod i would strongly suggest Sony VTC3 or VTC4 which are a true 30 amp battery.
If you chose a dual battery mod its more safe to use 20 amps batteries such as the Samsung 25R's as they both share the load.
And i commend you for asking and not just being an idiot and possibly hurting yourself.
If you chose a dual battery mod its more safe to use 20 amps batteries such as the Samsung 25R's as they both share the load.
And i commend you for asking and not just being an idiot and possibly hurting yourself.
So if I used a Sony battery, I would need a mechanical mod, correct? And if I wanted to use a dripper I could also use that?
You dont NEED a mechanical mod, no....the sony battery is a 30 amp battery which is required for the lower sub ohm coils on a single battery...You can use a dripper with any mod..It just depends on your ohms that determines the correct battery you need to use to be safe.
Can you make me a set up of what you're thinking so I can get an idea? Maybe the links to each one? I would really appreciate it. Still kinda unsure on what you mean,but I'm getting there
If you are going to vape at .5 or higher on a single battery i recommend Samsun 25R batteries...These are a true 20 amp battery that leaves you a little safety margin at .5 ohm.
If you vape under .5 ohm and especially down to .2 with a single battery you would want the sony VTC3 or 4 batteries...The vtc. 4 has more capacity so this is the better choice in general for the sonys.
If you use a dual battery mod the batteries share the load..so 2 samsungs with 20 amps makes this a 40 amp power supply now...so its safe to vape under .5 with this set up
However if you want the ultimate in power and safety then you use 2 sony vtc 4 batteries and you can vape the max limit a dual battery device can offer and still be safe.
If you vape under .5 ohm and especially down to .2 with a single battery you would want the sony VTC3 or 4 batteries...The vtc. 4 has more capacity so this is the better choice in general for the sonys.
If you use a dual battery mod the batteries share the load..so 2 samsungs with 20 amps makes this a 40 amp power supply now...so its safe to vape under .5 with this set up
However if you want the ultimate in power and safety then you use 2 sony vtc 4 batteries and you can vape the max limit a dual battery device can offer and still be safe.
There is so many choices that it would be difficult for me to show you what you might like.
The best way to lead you in the proper direction is you telling me what you want..Single battery mod?..dual battery mod?..Variable wattage?...mechanical?
The best way to lead you in the proper direction is you telling me what you want..Single battery mod?..dual battery mod?..Variable wattage?...mechanical?
You know, I was looking. I think I would want something with variable voltage. I was thinking about maybe a box mod? That has VV. single or dual battery not sure.... And I also do want a mech mod, but one that I can used different size batteries for with different tanks/drippers. I was looking at the Sigelei 150w, so I could get that and use that for a long time due to the huge wattage range. But then I saw the IPV4, with temperature control. What are your thoughts on that?( I really appreciate your time and patience, thank you! I hope to one day answer someone else's questions like you are mine
The sigelei 150 box mod is a wonderful choice...i think a bit overkill power wise but its a popular well respected product and the prices are amazing for them now compared to when they were new..you can get them in the 70 dollar range now...Batteries recommended by myself would be 2 Sony VTC4 batteries which will take you to any sub ohm level you want within the devices limits.You know, I was looking. I think I would want something with variable voltage. I was thinking about maybe a box mod? That has VV. single or dual battery not sure.... And I also do want a mech mod, but one that I can used different size batteries for with different tanks/drippers. I was looking at the Sigelei 150w, so I could get that and use that for a long time due to the huge wattage range. But then I saw the IPV4, with temperature control. What are your thoughts on that?( I really appreciate your time and patience, thank you! I hope to one day answer someone else's questions like you are mine
For a mechanical box mod....the only box i would personally buy is the Dovpo GX200...It has tons of safety features and can keep you out of a possible injury situation...this box can be had for less than 30 dollars...It has a 20 amp max limit with a 30amp cut off limit (safety feature)...Battery recommendation would be the same...Just go with sony VTC4's and not worry about anything.
A tube mech mod...Now you have to know your shit to dive into this and i wouldnt personally recommend it to you as of yet.
So, what is the real difference between the Sigelei and the dovpo? I didn't know there was mech boxes as well.. Why is that one "mechanical" and ok on the tube
Mechanical boxes such as the dovpo dont use a chip inside them to regulate wattage...Wattage in a mechanical is based on the ohms of your coil and the voltage in your battery to create wattage
On a mechanical with a freshly charged battery you have 4.2 volts roughly...So lets say with a .5 ohm coil this equates to a certain wattage...As the battery voltage drops so will your wattage created.
A regulated such as the sigelei uses a chip that maintains a wattage despite the voltage drop in the batteries..(the simple answer)
On a mechanical with a freshly charged battery you have 4.2 volts roughly...So lets say with a .5 ohm coil this equates to a certain wattage...As the battery voltage drops so will your wattage created.
A regulated such as the sigelei uses a chip that maintains a wattage despite the voltage drop in the batteries..(the simple answer)
Gotcha. Ok thanks! I have a feeling this is most likely what I am going to go with. Thank you so much for your help, I GREATLY appreciate it. I have tried other forums and they have been rude and snobby. Thank you so much for your patience, I'm glad I can finally upgrade. If I have anymore questions in the future, I hope you can answer them for me
thank you so much once again(actually last question, so your thought on variable temp is eh?) I also want to get a dripper in the near future
I missed the ipv and temp control part...I personally am not sold on it as of yet..some swear its like seeing jesus come down from the heavens and some just have alot of issues with them.
Im not really that educated in that temp control thing as of yet so i cant say much about it in all honesty.
So what is it your going to go with.
Which mod?
What batteries?
What rda or tank?
Im not really that educated in that temp control thing as of yet so i cant say much about it in all honesty.
So what is it your going to go with.
Which mod?
What batteries?
What rda or tank?
Haha, love the analogy xD
Sigelei
Sony VTC4 (2)
Arctic subohm
And would I need a battery charger? Or can I charge them in that box
Youre very welcome..Youll love this forum..a bunch of great knowledgeable help to be found here..Im far from an expert but im willing to help where i can...People helped me so its only right to give back..Welcome to VU by the way.Gotcha. Ok thanks! I have a feeling this is most likely what I am going to go with. Thank you so much for your help, I GREATLY appreciate it. I have tried other forums and they have been rude and snobby. Thank you so much for your patience, I'm glad I can finally upgrade. If I have anymore questions in the future, I hope you can answer them for me
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Thanks
I tried another forum and the guy was all like" I have all the knowledge to help you. But I'm not." And then he trolled me thread there forth
On those batteries...mark them battery 1 and 2...always use the same pair in the device..if one goes bad buy 2 more and use the 2 new ones...Never use an old battery with a new one and dont use them in anything else you buy..Keep them married to your sigelei at all times...And it doesnt hurt to rotate the cells...meaning use battery one in the first slot the first time then switch the batteries in the slots the next time.
Get a decent charger as well to charge them with..A simple nitecore intellicharger i2 has been working for me so far but you can get better ones with digital read outs and stuff.
Ok. Sounds good. Thanks
You may want to buy 4 batteries as well if you dont want to wait to vape again when your others go dead....mark the extras 3 and 4, and keep those together as well....dont mix battery 1 and 3 or 2 and 4 in other words.
Alrighty. I'll keep that in mind and once again thank you so much for your help. Have a great one
Youre welcome..enjoy the site and your new gear.
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Dont forget about the cloupor 150w i have both and they are great
I have been using a I taste 50 on my arctic running about 30 w anout .6 running a tug boat running about .5 no problems 0 none!!!
Sir Vapesalot
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+1 on the sigelei 150, love mine... And as far as sub ohm tanks go I have the Arctic with .2 ohm coils and the Atlantis 2 with . 3, for tanks they do great....
But if you want the best in flavor and clouds.... Drip, drip, drip
But if you want the best in flavor and clouds.... Drip, drip, drip
Yea I'm thinking about getting a mutation x v4
DarthVaper89
Member For 4 Years
so I've got a kamry 60 with a single battery(3.7v efest at 38amps) i want to run a doge v2 rda with a single coil build at somewhere between .3-.5 ohms...am i pushing the limits of this box mod and battery? or am i doin ok?
I would stay at .5 and you should be fine..I dont know the specs off hand of the kamry 60w but with that much power i dont see why a .5 ohm build would be too much for it...The New efest 38 amp was tested as a decent cell so it should work fine
DarthVaper89
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Thanks man, much appreciated, what would I need to change to come down to a lower sub ohm build?
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DarthVaper89
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Also, can I run that at like 40-50 watts? Or should I stay down in the 35-40 range?
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You may can go lower with the kamry..I dont know what the specs are on it...they have a minimum ohm limit..To go lower ohm you need a different coil build ,of course...Going lower than a limit of a mod usually means it wont fire the coil.
DarthVaper89
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That's understood, the batteries are really what I'm still learning a lot about, can a lower ohm build still be supported by the efest 38amp?
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DarthVaper89
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madmonkey
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remember that the Sigelei 150 runs two batteries in parallel and not series so 20 amps is still the max continuous drain limit off of them. This isn't something to worry about too much as the chipset inside the mod regulates power draw as part of it's safety features but if you really want to push your wattage above 100 watts I would get a pair or two of VTC 3's or VTC 4's for sure. It's not a huge deal but drawing that kind of current off of the 25R's, even in a regulated setting, constantly can shorten their operational lifespan.
Not a big deal, just something to be aware off...it's good to know if your dual battery mod operates in a "series" or "parallel" battery configuration...both have their pro's and cons but right now most of your main high wattage box mods like the IPV3 and Segelei 150 are series style mods.
The simple version of the difference between the two is that a parallel setup splits the load evenly between two batteries so you still only have 4.2 volts maximum output like with a single battery...however, because two batteries are sharing the load evenly you will have double the max continuous drain limit and double the run time than if you used a single battery. For example if I used two VTC 4 batteries in parallel my max output voltage would still only be 4.2 volts like a single battery, but because I am using two of them my run time for the mod is now 4200 mah instead of 2100 mah and my max continuous drain limit has been increased to 60 amps instead of 30 because the batteries are sharing the work evenly.
In a series configuration the batteries are "stacked" on top of each other and the power of one is combined with the other to double the output voltage. So instead of 4.2 being the max volts you have a max voltage output of 8.4 volts but your mah would still be 2100 like a single battery and your max continuous drain would still only be 30 amps like a single battery. The pro of stacking batteries in a series configuration like this is that with a much higher voltage output you have a much lower amp drain on your batteries.
Most of the common high watt dual battery boxes like the sig 150 and the IPV 3 use the series setup and what's called a "step down" converter in their chipsets so you can have that high wattage so many crave now days without a huge amp drain.
That's the short, not simple, but short version of it...I am sure it left you with some questions and please ask...I'd rather give too much information than too little...information is safety and safety is happy vaping
Not a big deal, just something to be aware off...it's good to know if your dual battery mod operates in a "series" or "parallel" battery configuration...both have their pro's and cons but right now most of your main high wattage box mods like the IPV3 and Segelei 150 are series style mods.
The simple version of the difference between the two is that a parallel setup splits the load evenly between two batteries so you still only have 4.2 volts maximum output like with a single battery...however, because two batteries are sharing the load evenly you will have double the max continuous drain limit and double the run time than if you used a single battery. For example if I used two VTC 4 batteries in parallel my max output voltage would still only be 4.2 volts like a single battery, but because I am using two of them my run time for the mod is now 4200 mah instead of 2100 mah and my max continuous drain limit has been increased to 60 amps instead of 30 because the batteries are sharing the work evenly.
In a series configuration the batteries are "stacked" on top of each other and the power of one is combined with the other to double the output voltage. So instead of 4.2 being the max volts you have a max voltage output of 8.4 volts but your mah would still be 2100 like a single battery and your max continuous drain would still only be 30 amps like a single battery. The pro of stacking batteries in a series configuration like this is that with a much higher voltage output you have a much lower amp drain on your batteries.
Most of the common high watt dual battery boxes like the sig 150 and the IPV 3 use the series setup and what's called a "step down" converter in their chipsets so you can have that high wattage so many crave now days without a huge amp drain.
That's the short, not simple, but short version of it...I am sure it left you with some questions and please ask...I'd rather give too much information than too little...information is safety and safety is happy vaping
madmonkey
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Any more questions please don't be shy...it's like I always said when I was a security supervisor to my crew under me...there are no stupid questions, just stupid reasons and excuses for not asking them
madmonkey
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The Atlantis V2 and the Arctic and even the Subtank's are just a few among many good sub ohm tanks out on the market right now, all have their strength's and weakness's. I am just glad that there are more and more high wattage affordable regulated devices on the market that can fire low resistance coils and power them making it much safer and easier for new vapors to experience high wattage vaping. The industry has grown by leaps and bounds and seems like it's advanced twice as fast in the last 18 months than it did then the two years before that.
Still, it's important and I can't say enough to learn at least the basics of ohm's law and battery safety and make sure you're using the right batteries for your vaping style and not what some vape shop was trying to sell you to move stock. You want at least 20 am continuous drain rating on your batteries. Sure, it would be nice to have a huge MAH runtime but even with regulated devices things can go wrong so it's important to make sure you have the proper power from a reputable company and not the "new rewrap" brand of the week. I know I am beating a dead horse here but I can't say it enough. And get a good charger like an Efest LUC series or an Xtar. If you're going to spend a good chunk of money on a nice mod and tank or atty, clone or otherwise, batteries and chargers is not a good place to skimp on to try and save a couple bucks. If your mod has a built in battery that can't be swapped than you don't have to worry because the device will only fire what it's rated for but if it doesn't having the proper batteries especially running a sub ohm build is imperative.
Still, it's important and I can't say enough to learn at least the basics of ohm's law and battery safety and make sure you're using the right batteries for your vaping style and not what some vape shop was trying to sell you to move stock. You want at least 20 am continuous drain rating on your batteries. Sure, it would be nice to have a huge MAH runtime but even with regulated devices things can go wrong so it's important to make sure you have the proper power from a reputable company and not the "new rewrap" brand of the week. I know I am beating a dead horse here but I can't say it enough. And get a good charger like an Efest LUC series or an Xtar. If you're going to spend a good chunk of money on a nice mod and tank or atty, clone or otherwise, batteries and chargers is not a good place to skimp on to try and save a couple bucks. If your mod has a built in battery that can't be swapped than you don't have to worry because the device will only fire what it's rated for but if it doesn't having the proper batteries especially running a sub ohm build is imperative.