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Billet Box Appreciation Thread

R3alJim Shady

Platinum Contributor
Member For 4 Years
Also, I think I got the last matte black Dreamer on 3F for $47 bucks. In talks to get a matte black Bonza or Recoil Rebel. I'm thinking $25 bucks max. Hell of a setup for under $80 either way!

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~Don~

Platinum Contributor
Member For 5 Years
Also, I think I got the last matte black Dreamer on 3F for $47 bucks. In talks to get a matte black Bonza or Recoil Rebel. I'm thinking $25 bucks max. Hell of a setup for under $80 either way!

Sent from the Death Star

I think I would of grabbed this for about the same price...

upload_2019-11-27_7-10-0.png

Only colorway they have left... unless you want the '650 or 20700 versions, those are available in black'ish colorway from district F5Ve
 

Mykreign

Platinum Contributor
Member For 5 Years
Got a package from Mr bobshere. The elusive BX9

7b49470e50f50988d1c9d5797d605f6c.jpg


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dubya314

Platinum Contributor
Member For 5 Years
The Bonza doesn't get much attention anymore, but that's a great RDA. Likes big builds though. My profile pic is of myself chuckin clouds with my first Bonza a good while back.
Yeah, I agree, I like it just fine. I just only do big build cloud chuckin about an hour a day anymore, and I don't need 50 rda's to do it :facepalm:
 

dubya314

Platinum Contributor
Member For 5 Years
Have you seen the Topside Lite? Very cool looking IMO.

Btw, @~Don~ I picked up a couple Molicel 20700s today from IMR at $4.99 each. Shipping was $7 but I thought that was pretty good. May have some 21700s at a good price too if you're in need.

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Have you used the Moli 20700's before? If not I think you will love them. My personal go to 20700.
 

dubya314

Platinum Contributor
Member For 5 Years
Those are great batteries. I have a few. I do think the Sanyo 2070C is better for mechs though.
I have hear that, haven't tried so I can't say. Why do you think so? Is it a higher amp more mah? Idk the spec's. I use the Moli in mech squonks all the time, but I never build below .19
 

~Don~

Platinum Contributor
Member For 5 Years
Have you seen the Topside Lite? Very cool looking IMO.

Btw, @~Don~ I picked up a couple Molicel 20700s today from IMR at $4.99 each. Shipping was $7 but I thought that was pretty good. May have some 21700s at a good price too if you're in need.

Sent from the Death Star

Thx!

I have 14 30Ts ... thinking of ordering some more though... can never have to many batteries.

Think I have 12 or so P26As in rotation for the Double Barrel and Dani
 

gsmit1

Platinum Contributor
Member For 4 Years
Higher rebound voltage til battery swap. The lower the IR = just that.

No one vapes a mech to 3.2v which are what mooch tests his batteries at... mech heads swap out much sooner, more akin to 3.7v
Exactly. I rarely get below 3.6 or 3-7. And yes, sag is the right word for internal voltage degradation under load. My mistake.
 

dubya314

Platinum Contributor
Member For 5 Years
Harder hitting means basically less internal voltage drop when it comes to batteries. So what Don said. Available, or usable voltage.
Ah ok. Getting outta my realm. I will fully admit I'm not a battery guy so to speak. I just don't over charge/discharge, don't pull over rated amps, and if they do as they should after that, I call it good. I guess thinking about it, I have never used a battery I would give a bad rating. That said, I have always stuck to the top brands and higher recommend ones.
 

~Don~

Platinum Contributor
Member For 5 Years
That’s a good way to go about batteries anyway.

Get the best available to your needs.

If .19 is your lowest any 25a rated battery with the most mAh and lowest IR would be prime.

I just pick the lowest IR, for more times than not, Mooch has rated them the best performer (Mechs)


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dubya314

Platinum Contributor
Member For 5 Years
Higher rebound voltage til battery swap. The lower the IR = just that.

No one vapes a mech to 3.2v which are what mooch tests his batteries at... mech heads swap out much sooner, more akin to 3.7v
Totally agree while sub ohming, for me anyway. I'm usually done at 3.6-3.7, start to notice the difference. But I also squonk mtl a lot on mech's with .6-.8 builds, and I am usually down to 3.4-3.3 before pulling those. Idk, maybe I is weird? :confused:
 

dubya314

Platinum Contributor
Member For 5 Years
That’s a good way to go about batteries anyway.

Get the best available to your needs.

If .19 is your lowest any 25a rated battery with the most mAh and lowest IR would be prime.

I just pick the lowest IR, for more times than not, Mooch has rated them the best performer (Mechs)


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If I do go below that, It goes in a dual battery regulated parallel, so I can split the load. Maybe over cautious, but I'm a guy that is happy at 17w for most of the day :)

I love reading battery talk though, helps me keep in touch with what i can do if I want.
 

~Don~

Platinum Contributor
Member For 5 Years
If I do go below that, It goes in a dual battery regulated parallel, so I can split the load. Maybe over cautious, but I'm a guy that is happy at 17w for most of the day :)

I love reading battery talk though, helps me keep in touch with what i can do if I want.

I still MTL with my Dvarw... whopping 14w with a coil .7+ I use the Molicel P26As... I tested it on the Dani mini against my 30Qs and I noticed hardly any difference... the 30q would sag below the 3v cut off but show 3.3v when I’d charge... P26s would sag but when placed on the charger be closer to the 3v cut off I set.

The available voltage let me run down closer utilizing the available mAh where the 30Q would not... hence no real appreciated difference although one is 400mAh more.



Like I mentioned, best for the way you vape with lowest IR...


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dubya314

Platinum Contributor
Member For 5 Years
I still MTL with my Dvarw... whopping 14w with a coil .7+ I use the Molicel P26As... I tested it on the Dani mini against my 30Qs and I noticed hardly any difference... the 30q would sag below the 3v cut off but show 3.3v when I’d charge... P26s would sag but when placed on the charger be closer to the 3v cut off I set.

The available voltage let me run down closer utilizing the available mAh where the 30Q would not... hence no real appreciated difference although one is 400mAh more.



Like I mentioned, best for the way you vape with lowest IR...


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Thats a whole nother question I got. I have a couple of Dvrwa clones. I hear so much love for them. They are really hard for me to get right. When not right, unusable. When right, they are just ok. I could probably rattle off 20 mtl set ups I like better. Makes me wonder, are the authentics that much better? Did I just get bad clones? Or even at my best, am I still not getting them right? I have given them a lot of tries, really want to love them.
 

R3alJim Shady

Platinum Contributor
Member For 4 Years
Thats a whole nother question I got. I have a couple of Dvrwa clones. I hear so much love for them. They are really hard for me to get right. When not right, unusable. When right, they are just ok. I could probably rattle off 20 mtl set ups I like better. Makes me wonder, are the authentics that much better? Did I just get bad clones? Or even at my best, am I still not getting them right? I have given them a lot of tries, really want to love them.
Do you have the full airflow insert set? That can make a huge difference. In not you're stuck adjusting your build to the airflow

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~Don~

Platinum Contributor
Member For 5 Years
Thats a whole nother question I got. I have a couple of Dvrwa clones. I hear so much love for them. They are really hard for me to get right. When not right, unusable. When right, they are just ok. I could probably rattle off 20 mtl set ups I like better. Makes me wonder, are the authentics that much better? Did I just get bad clones? Or even at my best, am I still not getting them right? I have given them a lot of tries, really want to love them.

The Dvarw clones are very comparable to the authentic, air flow is a tad different, but not dramatically different, or at least in my opinion.

I tried a bunch of coils and I honestly use just plain round now in the Dvarw, simple 28g N80 2mm 5.5 wrap resting 1mm above the air flow insert (1.5mm) and it works a treat for me at 12-16w...but...

I’m not a MTLr at heart, prefer a draw much looser, but I do enjoy it and have no issues with flavor with the clone or authentic, but I did get all the AF inserts...

I bought a few other MTL RTAs and just couldn’t get on with true MTL






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~Don~

Platinum Contributor
Member For 5 Years
So curious if the US1-V2 RDA will allow the Goon V1 cap to fit correctly... ah fuck it I should just buy another C2MNT at least I know how this works voltage wise.

There is absolutely nothing out there for Black Friday I truly want... minus the Aegis Boost


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R3alJim Shady

Platinum Contributor
Member For 4 Years
Okay mech heads... constant contact switch worth ilthe extra 20 bucks on the Dreamer? I like the idea of it but I'm not sure if it would be an improvement or if it won't make a difference

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