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Billet Box Appreciation Thread

derrickfosgate

Gold Contributor
Member For 4 Years
I guess i should have been more exact i know the diffrence in the bridges but whats the diffrence in the coils is it af taste or just design @BrewBear whats your opinion since i think u have both or @So619Cal have u used both or anybody at that matter
They utilize the same principle coil, just the design is different.

For the bridge that brew is selling, you want the regular Aspire BVC coils, not with "Nautilus" or "Atlantis" in its name.

This is the Aspire BVC

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This is the Aspire Nautilus

88d73dee8b62b3a30b59e4e034787bb4.png


This is the Aspire Atlantis

b5fa13e61b19c4b431b64c35f7c535ea.png





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~Don~

Platinum Contributor
Member For 5 Years
I guess i should have been more exact i know the diffrence in the bridges but whats the diffrence in the coils is it af taste or just design @BrewBear whats your opinion since i think u have both or @So619Cal have u used both or anybody at that matter

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I have the A-Tank and Nautilus Bridge... A-Tank is my choice between the two on the regular... I don't MTL much so there is that.

I think brew has them all minus the MF bridge which I think is almost to him and he is more MTL than I am.
 

derrickfosgate

Gold Contributor
Member For 4 Years
I have the A-Tank and Nautilus Bridge... A-Tank is my choice between the two on the regular... I don't MTL much so there is that.

I think brew has them all minus the MF bridge which I think is almost to him and he is more MTL than I am.
Okay ill wait for his verdict

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BrewBear

Platinum Contributor
Member For 4 Years
Well, here it is:
MF bridge with MTL KIT, most versatile, draw from very tight MTL (think cyclone v1) to restricted DL (haven't tried it yet, no coils for it). Cheap coils.
Aspire BVC, fair mtl for me, but too loose, probably fine for most. I used the 1.8 ohm cois.
Comfort bridge, uses Nautilus/ triton mini coils. Still too loose for me.
All three give good flavor, it's just a matter of airflow and how much of it you like. Just to give you an idea, what I call restricted DL, others call loose MTL.
 

~Don~

Platinum Contributor
Member For 5 Years
Well, here it is:
MF bridge with MTL KIT, most versatile, draw from very tight MTL (think cyclone v1) to restricted DL (haven't tried it yet, no coils for it). Cheap coils.
Aspire BVC, fair mtl for me, but too loose, probably fine for most. I used the 1.8 ohm cois.
Comfort bridge, uses Nautilus/ triton mini coils. Still too loose for me.
All three give good flavor, it's just a matter of airflow and how much of it you like. Just to give you an idea, what I call restricted DL, others call loose MTL.

Ok now I have questions ;)

MF bridge no MTL kit compared to the Comfort Bridge... which one has more air to you?
 

derrickfosgate

Gold Contributor
Member For 4 Years
Well, here it is:
MF bridge with MTL KIT, most versatile, draw from very tight MTL (think cyclone v1) to restricted DL (haven't tried it yet, no coils for it). Cheap coils.
Aspire BVC, fair mtl for me, but too loose, probably fine for most. I used the 1.8 ohm cois.
Comfort bridge, uses Nautilus/ triton mini coils. Still too loose for me.
All three give good flavor, it's just a matter of airflow and how much of it you like. Just to give you an idea, what I call restricted DL, others call loose MTL.
Whats looser aspire or comfort

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BrewBear

Platinum Contributor
Member For 4 Years
Ok now I have questions ;)

MF bridge no MTL kit compared to the Comfort Bridge... which one has more air to you?
I only have the MTL coils, I don't have any other coils for the MF bridge, but I would venture an educated guess. I think the Nautilus coils with their rather small air intake will be more restricted, the EUC coils will have more air.
Whats looser aspire or comfort

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It depends on the coil used, but I'd say they are about the same? This is based on my using 1.8 ohm boils in both, I couldn't say what it would be with different coils.
 

derrickfosgate

Gold Contributor
Member For 4 Years
Sent u a pm
I only have the MTL coils, I don't have any other coils for the MF bridge, but I would venture an educated guess. I think the Nautilus coils with their rather small air intake will be more restricted, the EUC coils will have more air.

It depends on the coil used, but I'd say they are about the same? This is based on my using 1.8 ohm boils in both, I couldn't say what it would be with different coils.

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RSZ1

Bronze Contributor
Member For 2 Years
Member For 1 Year
What boro tank will the MF bridge fit in? What I'm really asking is, will the MF bridge fit in the standard SXK boro tank?
 

R3alJim Shady

Platinum Contributor
Member For 4 Years
What boro tank will the MF bridge fit in? What I'm really asking is, will the MF bridge fit in the standard SXK boro tank?
Yes, the only bridge that requires a special Boro is the one included with the A-Tank. All others fit the standard Boro.

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RSZ1

Bronze Contributor
Member For 2 Years
Member For 1 Year
Yes, the only bridge that requires a special Boro is the one included with the A-Tank. All others fit the standard Boro.

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Thanks for the info!

My BB has cleared customs. Not sure it will make it from British Columbia to Ontario by tomorrow. Fingers crossed. :wait:
 

RSZ1

Bronze Contributor
Member For 2 Years
Member For 1 Year
Yes, that's why @So619Cal got the bridge. It was too much air for me, the TroyPlug MTL did help a lot, but then I found the MF kit was more to liking.

Trying to get a feel for what those EUC coils are like. Going for the .5 SSOCC coils to start since I know how those vape in a Subtank at least. Those EUC coils have me intrigued, and looking to see how the 0.5 SSOCC compare to the 0.5 EUC Ceramic coils.
 

BrewBear

Platinum Contributor
Member For 4 Years
Trying to get a feel for what those EUC coils are like. Going for the .5 SSOCC coils to start since I know how those vape in a Subtank at least. Those EUC coils have me intrigued, and looking to see how the 0.5 SSOCC compare to the 0.5 EUC Ceramic coils.
I'm using the 1.3 ohm EUC coils, have been for about 2 weeks now. Very good flavor at 12.4 ohms, not a juice guzzler.
 

Arthur-VU

Silver Contributor
Member For 2 Years
I wouldn't call it craftsmanship lol. Kinda scrubby looking if you ask me!
a558476ed8d01748bf07cb2df4432c45.jpg


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4bedb1759558a21747973a789b64e3ca.jpg
Looks good to me. You are not usually looking at that underside of the DT when vaping are you?

Did you rout a groove inside the circumference and then shorten the tube that goes into the key so it sits lower?

Please share the process of routing the groove, as I cannot get my head around it just now...
 

R3alJim Shady

Platinum Contributor
Member For 4 Years
Looks good to me. You are not usually looking at that underside of the DT when vaping are you?

Did you rout a groove inside the circumference and then shorten the tube that goes into the key so it sits lower?

Please share the process of routing the groove, as I cannot get my head around it just now...
So I basically did circles around the 510 base on the underside of the lip using a diamond tip. My rotary tool is a super cheap Harbor Freighg special with very little power so it took me a solid half hour or so. I imagine with a proper dremel it would take much less time.

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BrewBear

Platinum Contributor
Member For 4 Years
MF bridge with ceramic 0.5 euc coils is more air than Nautilus 0.7ohm IMHO
Did you get the MF bridge @troydestroy ?
If yes, how difficult would be to make(print) the delrin bottom piece in the MTL kit? It would work with the Aspire BVC and the Nautilus coils in their respective bridges.
If not yet, please keep the above question in mind.:cheers:

From what you're saying, the 0.5 ceramic EUC coil would be a DL coil for me.
 

troydestroy

Silver Contributor
Member For 4 Years
Did you get the MF bridge @troydestroy ?
If yes, how difficult would be to make(print) the delrin bottom piece in the MTL kit? It would work with the Aspire BVC and the Nautilus coils in their respective bridges.
If not yet, please keep the above question in mind.:cheers:

From what you're saying, the 0.5 ceramic EUC coil would be a DL coil for me.
Not yet... It's been sitting in ny for 6 days now...
 

troydestroy

Silver Contributor
Member For 4 Years
Oh... And btw, the 0.7ohm Nautilus coil rocks! I prefer it @ 18w over the 0.5ohm ss316 ssocc @ 24w

Think I'm done with rebuilding... For awhile at least :eek:
So this 0.7ohm Nautilus coil got swapped out yesterday... Not because of any issues with the coil but because i had it in my shirt pocket while doing some demo/construction and got shit down the drip tip.
It was indeed cotton wick. A little gunk on the coil but cotton wasn't in bad shape. Easily could have made a few more days to 3 weeks... And that's 10ml-15ml juice a day. Let's see if it's replacement lasts as long. I'm impressed so far. I have another running in my second rig but it gets much less usage so hard to keep track...
 

Arthur-VU

Silver Contributor
Member For 2 Years
Got these today. Now the question is brass button or black?
423c88e046de369c3bdfad82a828932b.jpg
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Those panels look really nice on the Dober!

I vote for the Brass too. The black button looks misplaced to me with those panels. The brass looks more like it matches the drip tip and Dober body color.
 

MrMeowgi

The Vapin' Drummer
VU Donator
Diamond Contributor
Member For 4 Years
Those panels look really nice on the Dober!

I vote for the Brass too. The black button looks misplaced to me with those panels. The brass looks more like it matches the drip tip and Dober body color.
I'm gonna keep the panels with the brass. I think it matches a lot better too. Can't wait to get the clear panels and the black BB fixed. It has the blackout kit with the a-tank and the kit from Troy. Battery wraps screws and condensation plug. Although the screws have a different thread pattern so I opted out on those but permanent marker makes them black enough to match.

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Arthur-VU

Silver Contributor
Member For 2 Years
I just dunno any more. This is going on for like the past 2-2.5 weeks....

Whether I am using the Exocet, Insider or VapeShell, all with 3mm ID SS316L wire in TC mode 22w @ 420F...wicked as minimal as possible without leaking and also not so much to get dry hits, tight in the coil and fluffy and loose on the ends...also tried loose in the coil and fluffy on the ends...and also tried almost too loose in the coil (pulls right out) and no change to the problem no matter how I am wicking. It's like the wicking makes no difference.

Each atomizer head starts out GREAT, an amazing vape, and then about on the 6th refill of the boro, I start getting sort of burnt hits...even with a full boro of juice, and if I empty the boro and take out the atty and look at the cotton, it is still wet, and if you squeeze it, plenty of juice comes out...

With each atty, when I it take apart, there is minimal gunking or carmelization of anything on the coil, and the wicks are clean and no burn marks if I pull them out, which is expected and 'normal' since I am running just VG, nic and distilled water to make unflavored 98% VG, yes there are no sweeteners or flavors added here in my DIY juice.

I wonder if there are hot coil legs that are giving off the burnt taste. On the Insider and Exocet, there are minimal 'legs' on the coil maybe 2mm before it goes in under the screw, so not much there to overheat, and I'd think that the center of the cotton would be burnt out before the legs got hot enough.

The only atomizer head that does NOT have this problem is the Kanger-style RBA head.

I've tried different brands of SS316L that I have, Medusa Wire, and Master of Clouds, as well as different cotton, Puffs pads from Amazon, and Native Wicks Platinum Blend. I even made 2 other batches of juice. My usual has VG from Essential Depot, and the first alternate batch I used Raw & Rare VG (also from Amazon), and the second alternate batch I used the Essential Depot VG, but mixed with freebase nic, instead of the 'smooth' nic salts, both from Nicotine River.

Trying to do process of elimination here...I cannot think of anything else to try to resolve this.

I am open to ideas, no matter how far-fetched...please advise :)
 

bratz

Member For 4 Years
Same here...only rebuildable that works for me is the Kanger RBA. Then again , only used STM since i start vaping 2.5years ago

Exocet - gurgled
Insider - Muted
Vapeshell - Dry hit after 2 tanks

All the above are clones.

Have decided to stick with what works for me and stop looking for a better vape for my taste.

Default coil is KA1 28awg 2.5mm 1.1ohm 11.5watts.

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Arthur-VU

Silver Contributor
Member For 2 Years
Same here...only rebuildable that works for me is the Kanger RBA. Then again , only used STM since i start vaping 2.5years ago

Exocet - gurgled
Insider - Muted
Vapeshell - Dry hit after 2 tanks

All the above are clones.

Have decided to stick with what works for me and stop looking for a better vape for my taste.

Default coil is KA1 28awg 2.5mm 1.1ohm 11.5watts.

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Thanks for the reply. I wish we could purchase the SXK Kanger-style RBA and bridge or the Kanger SSOCC bridge and threaded ring outside of the SXK BB kit. I'd buy 3 each right now if I could.

Basically, I'd have them built and wicked and each in their own boro tank, ready to swap out when needed.

I know you can buy a Subtank or Toptank mini RBA seperately, but wihout the bridge and coil adapter you cannot use it.

Only option that I know of is that Racing bridge from Atmistique and 3 of them gets pricey for me too fast...
 

RSZ1

Bronze Contributor
Member For 2 Years
Member For 1 Year
Thanks for the reply. I wish we could purchase the SXK Kanger-style RBA and bridge or the Kanger SSOCC bridge and threaded ring outside of the SXK BB kit. I'd buy 3 each right now if I could.

Basically, I'd have them built and wicked and each in their own boro tank, ready to swap out when needed.

I know you can buy a Subtank or Toptank mini RBA seperately, but wihout the bridge and coil adapter you cannot use it.

Only option that I know of is that Racing bridge from Atmistique and 3 of them gets pricey for me too fast...


Keep an eye on this website, says out of stock right now more on order. Might want to contact them and see if they actually are getting more in.

https://www.gascityvapes.com/collec...xk-billet-kanger-bridge?variant=4473139691561
 

bratz

Member For 4 Years
Thats the reason I ended up with 4 SXK BB loved the pocketability of BB. 2 BB always with me with 2 additional boro wicked/juiced

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Arthur-VU

Silver Contributor
Member For 2 Years
Keep an eye on this website, says out of stock right now more on order. Might want to contact them and see if they actually are getting more in.

https://www.gascityvapes.com/collec...xk-billet-kanger-bridge?variant=4473139691561
OMG thank you for finding that. So there is hope yet!!!!

Gas City Vapes is where I bought my first BB, back in first week of Feb, when it was sold out everywhere else, and I had no idea that a new production run was coming. 3F, FT and Gearbest were all sold out, and only vendors I could find in stock were Gas City Vapes (in Canada), and NatureVape (in the UK).

Gas City Vapes was great, the called me on the phone to confirm my order that I wanted the rat black instead of Dober and I received the package in 9 days from day of order from Canada to NJ. I probably overpaid by about $20, but it's been worth it. The BB is my favorite vape setup yet.

I am going to call them and see if I can find out more.

Thanks again brother! This info brings me hope!!! :) :stars2:
 

RSZ1

Bronze Contributor
Member For 2 Years
Member For 1 Year
Trying to do process of elimination here...I cannot think of anything else to try to resolve this.

I am open to ideas, no matter how far-fetched...please advise :)


Dry/burnt hits are the result of wicking issues. Have you tried rayon?
 

Arthur-VU

Silver Contributor
Member For 2 Years
Dry/burnt hits are the result of wicking issues. Have you tried rayon?
No. But thanks for suggesting that. I'll look into it.

I've wicked and re-wicked to the point of using over 15 cotton pads (each pad usually gives me 3-4 wicks depending on coil diameter) and nearly all 20 ft of the Native Wicks package, and each atty is slightly different in how it's 'supposed' to be wicked.

I'm not kidding, I've wicked and re-wicked maybe 40 times in each of the VapeShell/Exocet/Insider and it's not burnt nor dry cotton, the cotton has zero markings or darkness on it at all other than the slight beige tint from the VG and nic.

Yes, re-wicked maybe 120 times. Everything from almost no wick and very loose, to so tight that the cotton SQUEAKS when you twist it into the threads, with fluffing, no fluffing, thinning/combing out and not, long wispy ends vs. short haircut, etc, like 15 different variations...

No difference.

I'm used to working out how an atty likes to be wicked. It took me maybe 30 different builds and combinations of wick thickness and length in the Zeus RTA to end up with something that never dry hits, never spits, and I can drain the tank dry.

Next, I may have to hook up to Escribe again and push the Factory Settings and see if that changes anything. At this point it could be the BB for all I know....
 

RSZ1

Bronze Contributor
Member For 2 Years
Member For 1 Year
I just dunno any more. This is going on for like the past 2-2.5 weeks....

I'm used to working out how an atty likes to be wicked. It took me maybe 30 different builds and combinations of wick thickness and length in the Zeus RTA to end up with something that never dry hits, never spits, and I can drain the tank dry.

Next, I may have to hook up to Escribe again and push the Factory Settings and see if that changes anything. At this point it could be the BB for all I know....

The resistance could be jumping around. I know I had a heck of a time with TC when I first used a DNA75.

Are you pulsing the coils to glow red prior to putting them in the boro tank? I know that can be a challenge with a BB.

With SS316L 26 gauge I would build what looked like the perfect spaced coil, go to pulse it and see the legs glow red. A couple strums with ceramic tweezers and the hot legs would be gone.

To test the resistance jumping around theory, you could build it and use it only in power mode.
 

Arthur-VU

Silver Contributor
Member For 2 Years
The resistance could be jumping around. I know I had a heck of a time with TC when I first used a DNA75.

Are you pulsing the coils to glow red prior to putting them in the boro tank? I know that can be a challenge with a BB.

With SS316L 26 gauge I would build what looked like the perfect spaced coil, go to pulse it and see the legs glow red. A couple strums with ceramic tweezers and the hot legs would be gone.

To test the resistance jumping around theory, you could build it and use it only in power mode.
Thanks, I've not had resistance jumping. THe Exocet and Insider are 510-threaded and I test the resistance and pulse them before going in the boro on my Inbox v3 (DNA75) and the VapeShell has an adapter that lets you to do the same thing.

So yes, I am able to pulse them and I only every build spaced coils, so there are never any hotspots to deal with. Spaced coils work better in TC mode than contact coils for my own builds in the past 2 yrs, and also with spaced coils the middle of the wick never gets burnt out and black, which ALWAYS happened to me with contact coils.

I've also taken each of the 3 atomizers fully apart and given a thorough cleaning, yes, even the 510 pin into the deck and the positive post, and put everything back together making sure all insulators are in place, and all screws are tightened down.

SS316L always climbs about 10-15 % in resistance when power is applied and it gets hot. This is how TCR/TFR curves work to calculate temp. A cold coil that reads 0.31 Ohms, might climb to 0.36-0.38 Ohms after chain-vaping for 5 mins. A 0,9 Ohm coils of 26g ot 28g usually climbs to 1.1 Ohms. But not ever jumping around wildly, just a slight increase according to the temp.

In power mode on the BB DNA60, and also the Inbox v3 DNA75, as well as on the Pico 75w, if in power mode the cold resistance is always lower than when the coil is hot, this is why sometimes depending on the mod that it is necessary to 'lock' the resistance and to do so ONLY when the coil is cold or at room temp.
 

R3alJim Shady

Platinum Contributor
Member For 4 Years
Thanks, I've not had resistance jumping. THe Exocet and Insider are 510-threaded and I test the resistance and pulse them before going in the boro on my Inbox v3 (DNA75) and the VapeShell has an adapter that lets you to do the same thing.

So yes, I am able to pulse them and I only every build spaced coils, so there are never any hotspots to deal with. Spaced coils work better in TC mode than contact coils for my own builds in the past 2 yrs, and also with spaced coils the middle of the wick never gets burnt out and black, which ALWAYS happened to me with contact coils.

I've also taken each of the 3 atomizers fully apart and given a thorough cleaning, yes, even the 510 pin into the deck and the positive post, and put everything back together making sure all insulators are in place, and all screws are tightened down.

SS316L always climbs about 10-15 % in resistance when power is applied and it gets hot. This is how TCR/TFR curves work to calculate temp. A cold coil that reads 0.31 Ohms, might climb to 0.36-0.38 Ohms after chain-vaping for 5 mins. A 0,9 Ohm coils of 26g ot 28g usually climbs to 1.1 Ohms. But not ever jumping around wildly, just a slight increase according to the temp.

In power mode on the BB DNA60, and also the Inbox v3 DNA75, as well as on the Pico 75w, if in power mode the cold resistance is always lower than when the coil is hot, this is why sometimes depending on the mod that it is necessary to 'lock' the resistance and to do so ONLY when the coil is cold or at room temp.
IIRC, you're using some pretty VG heavy juice right? Any of those RBAs are going to struggle with wicking with super viscous juice like that. The only one I would think that could keep up would be the Exo, but you're going to have to thin out your wicks and fluff the ever living crap out of them to cover the opening to prevent flooding.
I've been mixing 60/40 blends and the VapeShell is the only one giving me problems wicking. Buuuuut I also don't have a PG sensitivity.
Hope you find a resolution soon!

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MrMeowgi

The Vapin' Drummer
VU Donator
Diamond Contributor
Member For 4 Years
Well installed the new button board for the black billet. Same results. Wattage drops automatically. On the upside I replaced it myself and was working great. For some reason the mod won't sleep and when it flickers it starts the wattage cycle. New main board I'm guessing?

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BrewBear

Platinum Contributor
Member For 4 Years
Well installed the new button board for the black billet. Same results. Wattage drops automatically. On the upside I replaced it myself and was working great. For some reason the mod won't sleep and when it flickers it starts the wattage cycle. New main board I'm guessing?

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This thing is turning into a money pit! Is that the SXK board, or the DNA?
 

R3alJim Shady

Platinum Contributor
Member For 4 Years
Well installed the new button board for the black billet. Same results. Wattage drops automatically. On the upside I replaced it myself and was working great. For some reason the mod won't sleep and when it flickers it starts the wattage cycle. New main board I'm guessing?

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Well that sucks donkey balls.

If you have to replace the board go with the DNA 60 and Escribe it while you're at it! Bright side?

On a completely unrelated note: I found a MBV Hawk Sauce Clone recipe, tweaked it a bit, and mixed that bitch up. Tastes like memories in a Borotank...

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MrMeowgi

The Vapin' Drummer
VU Donator
Diamond Contributor
Member For 4 Years
Well that sucks donkey balls.

If you have to replace the board go with the DNA 60 and Escribe it while you're at it! Bright side?

On a completely unrelated note: I found a MBV Hawk Sauce Clone recipe, tweaked it a bit, and mixed that bitch up. Tastes like memories in a Borotank...

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Yea was gonna see if I could find a 60 board somewhere. Who knows.

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MrMeowgi

The Vapin' Drummer
VU Donator
Diamond Contributor
Member For 4 Years
This thing is turning into a money pit! Is that the SXK board, or the DNA?
Sxk. Gonna try to find a DNA board if possible. If not I got a spare boro and Kanger bridge. He'll another screen and two button boards if the others I aquired start having issues. It's all good.

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~Don~

Platinum Contributor
Member For 5 Years
How do you folks clean your boro tanks? I'm thinking hot water with Dawn soak and then boil for a few minutes. That's usually my go to for cleaning atties.

New ones I Remove the gasket, ultrasonic cleaner, rinse, use my datavac to dry.

Ultrasonic gets the water fairly hot, but never boiling hot...afraid boiling water would warp the boro/gasket.

I honestly have to say that the USC is up there with one of the better purchases I've made for vaping. $28




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