Is that carbon or is it pitted? I cannot tell by the pics?I've been looking up what it could be but I couldn't find a definitive answer. Does anyone know what these are and how to fix it?
That's exactly what I thought, but I'm no expert.or is it pitted?
haha you said Fucky fast :0if pitted then you have an arc issue that is going to go from zero to fucky fast.
if not pitted then carbon, just wipe off and go about your day.
Same looks like freaking holesTo me it looks to be pitted. What Ohm's are you running your atty at?
Yeah it's freaky holesSame looks like freaking holes
Yeah it's pitted. How do I check the ohms on my atty? It's a freakshow miniTo me it looks to be pitted. What Ohm's are you running your atty at?
I had the same issues using a stainless button and switch housing in my stainless BFM...I used fine grit sand paper to remove the arc pits on the battery bottom and batt contact on the button... Was OK for awhile but arcing kept reoccurring... I finally solved the issue of arcing altogether by ordering the optional brass switch housing, copper button and copper contact from BCV for my BFM...That was a year ago now and still working good...No arcing or pitting issues anyone... just sayinI've been looking up what it could be but I couldn't find a definitive answer. Does anyone know what these are and how to fix it?
Yeah I was thinking it was the button because my friends epic smpl doesn't have this problem and it uses a brass button. The rem smpl I have uses a stainless button. Do you think this is the problem?I had the same issues using a stainless button and switch housing in my stainless BFM...I used fine grit sand paper to remove the arc pits on the battery bottom and batt contact on the button... Was OK for awhile but arcing kept reoccurring... I finally solved the issue of arcing altogether by ordering the optional brass switch housing, copper button and copper contact from BCV for my BFM...That was a year ago now and still working good...No arcing or pitting issues anyone... just sayin
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It was for me using a stainless button.Yeah I was thinking it was the button because my friends epic smpl doesn't have this problem and it uses a brass button. The rem smpl I have uses a stainless button. Do you think this is the problem?
Ok, this really concerns me. Do you have an Ohm Meter or regulated mod that can check the resistance? At this point you have no idea how low the build is, nor if it is shorting or not. If you are going to build drippers or rebuildable tanks, an Ohm Meter is the most essential piece of equipment you can own. It will tell you the Ohms, but also if your setup is unstable or shorting. If you don't have an Ohm meter, buy one.Yeah it's pitted. How do I check the ohms on my atty? It's a freakshow mini
Ok, this really concerns me. Do you have an Ohm Meter or regulated mod that can check the resistance? At this point you have no idea how low the build is, nor if it is shorting or not. If you are going to build drippers or rebuildable tanks, an Ohm Meter is the most essential piece of equipment you can own. It will tell you the Ohms, but also if your setup is unstable or shorting. If you don't have an Ohm meter, buy one.
For Arcing and pitting to occur, either the switch and 510 top cap are dirty,or you've got a build so low that the mod switch has problems handling the current. Be safe dude, check that build with an Ohm Meter.
Do I have to clean my atty before I check, like remove the cotton? Is it possible to be at 0.2-0.3 ohms?Ok, this really concerns me. Do you have an Ohm Meter or regulated mod that can check the resistance? At this point you have no idea how low the build is, nor if it is shorting or not. If you are going to build drippers or rebuildable tanks, an Ohm Meter is the most essential piece of equipment you can own. It will tell you the Ohms, but also if your setup is unstable or shorting. If you don't have an Ohm meter, buy one.
For Arcing and pitting to occur, either the switch and 510 top cap are dirty,or you've got a build so low that the mod switch has problems handling the current. Be safe dude, check that build with an Ohm Meter.
Also did sanding remove all the arc pits? How long would it last until you had to do it again?I had the same issues using a stainless button and switch housing in my stainless BFM...I used fine grit sand paper to remove the arc pits on the battery bottom and batt contact on the button... Was OK for awhile but arcing kept reoccurring... I finally solved the issue of arcing altogether by ordering the optional brass switch housing, copper button and copper contact from BCV for my BFM...That was a year ago now and still working good...No arcing or pitting issues anyone... just sayin
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Dude you need to check what .ohm level you are at either get a OHM checker use a VV/VW mod to tell you or learn about coil wrappingAlso did sanding remove all the arc pits? How long would it last until you had to do it again?
As others have stated you should use an ohm meter for your builds to be safe. Study up on ohm's law how it pertains to batt saftey and at least have a working knowledge of basic electronics before attempting to build for your mech..Also did sanding remove all the arc pits? How long would it last until you had to do it again?
I check ohms on my atties using a separate ohm meter like this..It's pitted, how do I check the ohms? I'm using a rem smpl with freakshow mini atty
Can I use a multimeter?Dude you need to check what .ohm level you are at either get a OHM checker use a VV/VW mod to tell you or learn about coil wrapping
if you follow the guide on http://www.steam-engine.org you will know darn close to what OHM your build is at..
What you are doing scares me to death you just might blow yourself up. If you think you might please do record it so we can use you as an example what not to do.
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It's pitted, how do I check the ohms? I'm using a rem smpl with freakshow mini atty
If my atty is the problem and I fix it, am I still able to use my mod even if the contact is pitted?Yes.
Well yeahCan I use a multimeter?
suddently I want to spank you in the faceIf my atty is the problem and I fix it, am I still able to use my mod even if the contact is pitted?
Do I have to clean my atty before I check, like remove the cotton? Is it possible to be at 0.2-0.3 ohms?
I found an ohm meter on eBay for $6 shipped. I've been using a multimeter, but the ohm meter should be here tomorrow.