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Cautions about using vinyl skin coverings

Discussion in 'General Discussion' started by wizardofozone, Aug 7, 2016.

  1. wizardofozone

    wizardofozone New Member

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    I have bought dozens of skin wraps from many different companies and feel I can give some important advice if you are considering using them . My avatar shows several of the many I have purchased.

    1. The heavier the mod, the hotter it's total metal area will heat the wrap when left in a vehicle causing glue bleeding, possible puckering, slippage or loosening in the thinner or more complicated wrap areas of certain units. For under the sun hot usage always take your non skinned units. A real 'in the sun' vinyl skin cooker for example is the super heavy Laisimo top screen unit. (By the way and probably needless to mention is that any unit left in a car in the sun is just asking for seatcover damage or a truly nasty battery incident ) .... but that Laisimo is the worst of the bunch, one could get a serious burn grabbing that thing if left on the seat of a car sitting out in the sun.

    2. Perfectionists like myself tend to want no dirt, smudges, or VG slipperiness and wipe off their units a lot. This constant wiping ,water applications, or polishing with Pledge or some shine product will easily loosen all your vinyl skins, and the 'mysterious' light stickiness you might be feeling and confused about is the vinyl glue backing leeching out from under the wrap and all over the surface .

    3. Some, ( not all) companies recommend in the installation instructions that you finish off the new wrap job with a hair dryer to 'set' the vinyl ... take this advice with a grain of salt as this will cause glue bleeding if you are too heavy handed with the hair dryer. Dryers can also immediately give a prune-like pucker or lift and shrivel skins that rapidly taper off to a narrow point or very thin edge covering area such as the top left and right side of the Releaux's front face vinyl piece where it meets the top edges of the battery door. Another problem mod is the area around the top of the oval vents on the Eleaf Istick100 watt unit, which overall I find the most carefree and trouble free unit to take and use anywhere, vinyl skinned or not .

    4. If an older mod is so beat up that a wrap is absolutely necessary, keep in mind that some company's skins are just a tad 'short' in some cases and leave the original color exposed at the very edges of their particular shape as with the teal and white Reuleau. That exposed teal color doesn't match a thing, trust me ! (lol) . To solve that problem, spray any base color onto the edges of the mod unit that is similar to the overall color the vinyl skin will be that you intend to use.

    5. Overall, with only the exception of one type of vinyl skin, I think these skins will gradually fade away unless made a lot thicker,with more specialized glue, and cut to even a finer fit than they are now, even though the fit is damn near perfect. By the way, getting a wrap that ends slightly short at the edges is one problem if trying to use a hair dryer ... Overheating and useing finger pressure on the hot vinyl to stretch the short skin to the very edge might work occasionally but often, after it cools this stretching trick hardly ever lasts and often shrink back and/or vinyl lifting can begin even on the first day of the application.

    6. As for the one perfect exception to troublesome skins, It seems that many companies that specialize in TEXTURED reptile and leather vinyls create much, much thicker vinyl skins . They seem to have a better glue backing as well . Coming from UK countries much of the time, the thickness to make the 3-D texture feel and look real creates the need for a heavier vinyl I imagine. The cost of these is higher, and can run up to as much as $18.00.
     
    Last edited: Aug 7, 2016
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  2. flavorchaser077

    flavorchaser077 Member For 1 Year

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    Thanks for the write up. I purchased a tesla stealth, which I love, except that the thin rubberized coating is peeling off (it does it on all of them, manufacturer defect). This mod is perfect in every other way. I paid $22.50 for the mod. The 'skin' I found for it is $18 plus shipping. I don't mind the price so much, if it works. the mod itself is a bit unusual, with the tank mounted on the side. Do you think a skin would work or would some type of paint be better?
    [​IMG]
     
  3. wizardofozone

    wizardofozone New Member

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    The Mod's own factory skin is peeling if I read you correctly so that suggests the old parable of new wine in old skins ... I mean there is probably no use applying an $18 wrap to that peeling stuff .... can you peel it all off and get to the mods smooth metal or plastic ? If you can I think this is the time for one of those heavy textured reptile or alligator vinyls ... they are the best coverings for problem mods ... At $18 I'm surprised its not in fact one of the reptiles or faux leathers I referred to in the post above .... What is the finish .. is it a textured skin wrap ?

    If you can indeed remove every trace of the rubberized factory coating ,you have two choices ... try the new $18 wrap since you have already paid for it any how .... But if that is not satisfactory (although I wouldn't understand why it wouldn't be .... then do a nice DRY spray can color .... DRY means to keep the can away back ,about 20 inches ,so the paint is hitting the mod 'dusty' and dry with the carrier all evaporated over its 20 inch trip from can to mod.
     
    Last edited: Aug 11, 2016
  4. Vapist

    Vapist New Member

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    I had the same problem with peeling. I tossed it in a drawer for 6 months, then decided yesterday to try and strip off all the rubber to make it at least presentable.
    I disassembled it, scraped off what I could with a screwdriver, then roughly sanded it down. I could shine it up more using progressively finer sandpaper, but hell, looks pretty good already!
     

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