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Wanted to share my experiences with the Ceravape Hygeia in the hopes it might be helpful. It uses a ceramic tube, not solid rod, for the wick. It comes with an extra 1.8 ohm cartridge.
At first glance it doesn't look like a rebuildable as it uses a coil/wick cartridge head but it is rebuildable. And I found it easier to rebuild than screw post attys using Ni200. And if it works with Ni200 then Kanthal won't be a problem. Screw posts have a tendency to pull the coil legs as you tighten the screws and given the softness and ductility of nickel is more of a problem than with Kanthal. Like all the other coil heads I have seen, the Hygeia uses compression for coil leg connectivity; center pin, silicone sleeve insulator and head base. And since the DNA40 needs Ni200 for temperature protect where .01 ohm variations can cause problems, I am pleasantly surprised that it works so well.
Having T3s, Nautilus, Aero, Arnold, pyrex RSST, Youde AGA-TD, Aqua, Foggers, BIG Foggers, Kaisers, Kayfuns, Squape-R, the Hygeia is now my favorite. So much so that I have gave away most of the others.
The Hygeia is superior in every way but one - it has a tighter draw. The air flow hole needs to be larger. But for me, it's other merits outweigh this.
Currently only single coil cartridges are available but dual coil is possible by modification (drilling a second hole above and 90 degrees to the first and using a ceramic tube from the extra head) until Ceravape delivers duals.
Prior to the Hygeia, the best single coil performer I had was the Kaiser. What set the Kaiser apart was it's incredible juice flow. It could sustain 14-18W on a single coil where the rest where in the 8-12W range per coil. And by sustain I mean setting the power level on a DNA40 in temperature protect mode of 410F where temperature protect would not kick in through the entire length of draw including successive draws while chain vaping. The Hygeia is sustaining 14-18W. As I use 100% VG, a little trick I found with the Hygeia is to blow into it prior to a chain vape and it really starts flowing the juice. In a dual coil configuration it should sustain 28-36W.
It is easy to refill, no small/needle tips or tools are necessary like with the Squape-R or Kaiser and Foggers. Its airflow control ring has detents so it doesn't rattle like V4 Foggers. And the airflow control ring doesn't look like its going to fall off the base like with the Squape-R. And it holds a lot of juice for a 22mm atty, about 5ml.
And best of all, unlike all the others, it has not flooded or leaked...ever. Not when filling, vaping or sitting.
So for me, the merits of easy to rebuild with Ni200, great juice flow and vapor production for a single coil, easy to refill without tools or needles, airflow control ring with detents that doesn't rattle or want to fall off, no flooding or leaking and made of SS and glass, outweighs the tight draw. But as I do like a more loose or airy draw, the airflow control ring set to the largest hole is the minimum acceptable for me.
I attributed the Kaisers superior juice flow to its coil cup design that allowed the wick and coil to be inline with the juice reservoir as opposed to a raised build deck like the Kayfun and Kayfun derivatves IE Foggers, Aqua, Squape-R etc. The coil cartridge head attys have the same advantage but what really sets the Hygeia apart is the wick. It uses a porous ceramic tube for the wick.
Ceravape claims a "more pure" vape and longer lasting coil. While I can understand that claim as porous ceramics are used for potable water filtration, I don't agree with that claim. My e-juice doesn't need filtering and the taste is the same. As for the longer lasting coil, the DNA40 temperature protect does more for coil longevity then I can imagine the ceramic wick will. But forget their claims, the porous ceramic tube wick does provide a couple of distinct advantages; vapor production and ease of rebuild.
The hollow core of the tube wick ensures the wick length (distance juice has to travel from the juice reservoir to the coil) is both minimum (thickness of the tube wall) and uniform across the entire length of the coil. On a solid core wick like silica rope or builds with cotton and rayon, the wick length varies across the coil. Take for example a typical coil head from aspire or Kanger where the coil is wrapped around silica rope. The wick length to the outer wraps of the coil is shorter than the wick length to the inner wraps of the coil and the middle of the coil is typically where you see the buildup vice the ends. Same with a Kayfun horizontal build where the cotton or rayon passes through the coil, droops over the raised build deck down to the juice holes at the bottom. This means more uniform and efficient vapor production and a possible reason while the coil may slightly last longer as buildup occurs across the entire coil length not just in one spot. It also means the average temperature of the coil will be across the entire coil vice an average of lower temps at the ends and higher in the middle.
And because of the uniform across the coil, short wick length, it's vapor production is outstanding.
The ceramic wick is not delicate and makes rebuilds easy. The ceramic wick serves as the mandrel for winding the coil. I recommend spaced ie non-touching wraps.
Rebuild is very similar to rebuilding other cartridges from Aspire and Kanger. But what makes this easier is the ceramic tubes. On the other cartridges the coils are smaller in diameter and you wind on flimsy wick often using a needle to give the structure rigidity then pulling the needle out before installing in the cartridge. On this, simply wind on the ceramic tube as a mandrel.
Only tools needed are a keychain screwdriver and clippers. Use the Philips head to push out the ceramic tube. Insert the screwdriver through the hole on the bottom pin to pull out the pin, kind of like a T-handle. Pull out the silicon insulator sleeve then push the screwdriver through the end of the cartridge to push out the coil. Wind your Ni200 on the ceramic tube, then pull out the ceramic tube. Insert the coil into the top of the cartridge with legs poking through the bottom hole. Lay cartridge on its side and align the coil with the hole then push the ceramic tube through gently while twisting it to get it started then pick up the cartridge look through the top as you twist, push and align the ceramic tube and coil to go through the coil and the other side of the cartridge. I find this to be quite easy but needs close up vision so using a magnifying glass or glasses is a must if your close up vision is impaired like mine. Once the ceramic tube and coil are in place then insert the sleeve in the bottom with one leg outside the sleeve and the other through the sleeve and bend the legs over the sides 180 from each other. Then insert the bottom pin by inserting the screw driver through the hole in the pin like a T handle and push it in as it is a very tight fit. Then snip off the legs. The only hiccup in cartridge rebuilds is making sure the leg of the coil that goes through the sleeve for the positive center pin does not touch the side of the cartridge or you will have a short. This is easily accomplished by using the flat blade of the keychain screw driver to push the coil loops over and evening the spread at the same time if necessary.
HTH
At first glance it doesn't look like a rebuildable as it uses a coil/wick cartridge head but it is rebuildable. And I found it easier to rebuild than screw post attys using Ni200. And if it works with Ni200 then Kanthal won't be a problem. Screw posts have a tendency to pull the coil legs as you tighten the screws and given the softness and ductility of nickel is more of a problem than with Kanthal. Like all the other coil heads I have seen, the Hygeia uses compression for coil leg connectivity; center pin, silicone sleeve insulator and head base. And since the DNA40 needs Ni200 for temperature protect where .01 ohm variations can cause problems, I am pleasantly surprised that it works so well.
Having T3s, Nautilus, Aero, Arnold, pyrex RSST, Youde AGA-TD, Aqua, Foggers, BIG Foggers, Kaisers, Kayfuns, Squape-R, the Hygeia is now my favorite. So much so that I have gave away most of the others.
The Hygeia is superior in every way but one - it has a tighter draw. The air flow hole needs to be larger. But for me, it's other merits outweigh this.
Currently only single coil cartridges are available but dual coil is possible by modification (drilling a second hole above and 90 degrees to the first and using a ceramic tube from the extra head) until Ceravape delivers duals.
Prior to the Hygeia, the best single coil performer I had was the Kaiser. What set the Kaiser apart was it's incredible juice flow. It could sustain 14-18W on a single coil where the rest where in the 8-12W range per coil. And by sustain I mean setting the power level on a DNA40 in temperature protect mode of 410F where temperature protect would not kick in through the entire length of draw including successive draws while chain vaping. The Hygeia is sustaining 14-18W. As I use 100% VG, a little trick I found with the Hygeia is to blow into it prior to a chain vape and it really starts flowing the juice. In a dual coil configuration it should sustain 28-36W.
It is easy to refill, no small/needle tips or tools are necessary like with the Squape-R or Kaiser and Foggers. Its airflow control ring has detents so it doesn't rattle like V4 Foggers. And the airflow control ring doesn't look like its going to fall off the base like with the Squape-R. And it holds a lot of juice for a 22mm atty, about 5ml.
And best of all, unlike all the others, it has not flooded or leaked...ever. Not when filling, vaping or sitting.
So for me, the merits of easy to rebuild with Ni200, great juice flow and vapor production for a single coil, easy to refill without tools or needles, airflow control ring with detents that doesn't rattle or want to fall off, no flooding or leaking and made of SS and glass, outweighs the tight draw. But as I do like a more loose or airy draw, the airflow control ring set to the largest hole is the minimum acceptable for me.
I attributed the Kaisers superior juice flow to its coil cup design that allowed the wick and coil to be inline with the juice reservoir as opposed to a raised build deck like the Kayfun and Kayfun derivatves IE Foggers, Aqua, Squape-R etc. The coil cartridge head attys have the same advantage but what really sets the Hygeia apart is the wick. It uses a porous ceramic tube for the wick.
Ceravape claims a "more pure" vape and longer lasting coil. While I can understand that claim as porous ceramics are used for potable water filtration, I don't agree with that claim. My e-juice doesn't need filtering and the taste is the same. As for the longer lasting coil, the DNA40 temperature protect does more for coil longevity then I can imagine the ceramic wick will. But forget their claims, the porous ceramic tube wick does provide a couple of distinct advantages; vapor production and ease of rebuild.
The hollow core of the tube wick ensures the wick length (distance juice has to travel from the juice reservoir to the coil) is both minimum (thickness of the tube wall) and uniform across the entire length of the coil. On a solid core wick like silica rope or builds with cotton and rayon, the wick length varies across the coil. Take for example a typical coil head from aspire or Kanger where the coil is wrapped around silica rope. The wick length to the outer wraps of the coil is shorter than the wick length to the inner wraps of the coil and the middle of the coil is typically where you see the buildup vice the ends. Same with a Kayfun horizontal build where the cotton or rayon passes through the coil, droops over the raised build deck down to the juice holes at the bottom. This means more uniform and efficient vapor production and a possible reason while the coil may slightly last longer as buildup occurs across the entire coil length not just in one spot. It also means the average temperature of the coil will be across the entire coil vice an average of lower temps at the ends and higher in the middle.
And because of the uniform across the coil, short wick length, it's vapor production is outstanding.
The ceramic wick is not delicate and makes rebuilds easy. The ceramic wick serves as the mandrel for winding the coil. I recommend spaced ie non-touching wraps.
Rebuild is very similar to rebuilding other cartridges from Aspire and Kanger. But what makes this easier is the ceramic tubes. On the other cartridges the coils are smaller in diameter and you wind on flimsy wick often using a needle to give the structure rigidity then pulling the needle out before installing in the cartridge. On this, simply wind on the ceramic tube as a mandrel.
Only tools needed are a keychain screwdriver and clippers. Use the Philips head to push out the ceramic tube. Insert the screwdriver through the hole on the bottom pin to pull out the pin, kind of like a T-handle. Pull out the silicon insulator sleeve then push the screwdriver through the end of the cartridge to push out the coil. Wind your Ni200 on the ceramic tube, then pull out the ceramic tube. Insert the coil into the top of the cartridge with legs poking through the bottom hole. Lay cartridge on its side and align the coil with the hole then push the ceramic tube through gently while twisting it to get it started then pick up the cartridge look through the top as you twist, push and align the ceramic tube and coil to go through the coil and the other side of the cartridge. I find this to be quite easy but needs close up vision so using a magnifying glass or glasses is a must if your close up vision is impaired like mine. Once the ceramic tube and coil are in place then insert the sleeve in the bottom with one leg outside the sleeve and the other through the sleeve and bend the legs over the sides 180 from each other. Then insert the bottom pin by inserting the screw driver through the hole in the pin like a T handle and push it in as it is a very tight fit. Then snip off the legs. The only hiccup in cartridge rebuilds is making sure the leg of the coil that goes through the sleeve for the positive center pin does not touch the side of the cartridge or you will have a short. This is easily accomplished by using the flat blade of the keychain screw driver to push the coil loops over and evening the spread at the same time if necessary.
HTH
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