Chicks, guitars and the third world war!

[jimbodaddy74]

I only have my two electrics. My Fernandes frankensteinocaster, and my SG special. I probably would not have bought the SG if I didn't get it for $350 two years ago. Finish wise, Gibson did a horrible job. You can see the sanding marks under the black finish. But the playability is really nice, and changing out the bridge pickup to a Seymour Duncan JB really nailed the tone.

The only part of the Fernandes that is original is the body, and the neck plate.

 

[Air Blower]

You guys have really nice guitars. So fuckin jealous. I have been playing for 13 years and I have never owned a really nice guitar.

This is the frankentar. All in all, I think it's made of 4 different guitars. I assembled and wired it all myself with a cheapo soldering iron. It was pure hell, but everything works and it sounds like its supposed to. Some guts from my first guitar, a 2003 Squier Strat (5-way switch, input jack, tone knob, two saddle screws,) Dimarzio X2N in the bridge, unknown Ibanez AX-series pickup in the neck. The neck is from an RG321, so it's probably a wizard II (the original neck on the body must've been something else, because the wizard II is noticeably thinner and less contoured, which I like a lot.) You can't see in this picture, but the headstock is black XD I took the finish off of the neck because I like the feeling of a bare neck. It hasn't warped yet and it's got a nice balance of smoothness and grip. Just needs some 0000 steel wool from time to time to keep it sealed-in.

Basically, a lot of my friends in high school wanted to play guitar, but they got bored of it and neglected their guitars... ...they had basically taken em apart and fucked em up trying to make them not sound like shit. They thought they were worthless, so I bought them off of them for next to nothing and scrapped them for parts to make one better guitar.

All in all, it's a piece of shit that I wired and put together when I was 16 and didn't know what the hell I was doing, but it's served me well over this past decade. At this point, the intonation across the fret board is totally shot... ...indentations all over the place. But I still love playing on it. I've played on nicer guitars, but this one just feels like home yanno? With a set of 12's and a wound 3rd on it, the intonation problems are minimal and I've got everything set to be pretty loose and light, so it all works out to make for a pretty unique-playing instrument.

I just need to get a new RG neck for it. Honestly, I'm thinking about gutting it, dropping a prestige neck on, maybe dropping some bare knuckle pups in it, and bringing some true glory to it on the cheap. I'd rather just fix up this one then spend a bunch of money on a nice, new guitar. I already know what I need and how to set it up to be a great guitar. Why pay for stuff I don't need?

I also have a Schecter C-1 special that I'm slowly warming up to. I didn't like the c-shaped neck at first, but everything on this guitar is set so perfectly that I've learned to like it. That's one thing I've noticed Schecter is really good about... ...even their cheap guitars are set-up perfect, right off the line. Still not sure I want to keep this guitar, though. Everything about is kinda, meh. Might take whatever money I can make from it and toss it into the Ibanez. It's the better guitar of the two, surprisingly enough.

Have you checked the neck and frets using a straight edge with strings off?

I've had a couple old Ibanez I ended up doing total re-fret jobs on because they had been re-croned a couple times and there wasn't enough meat left to save the frets.

If you have any string buzzing it could very well be some flats and highs on your frets. Re-crowning isn't too hard, just tedious and requires a few tools.

 

[Air Blower]

Yea they do amazing in the QC along with ESP/LTD. They come out of the box ready to play. Its a shame that even the mid range $400 Ibanez/LTD guitars made in China have better quality control than fucking $8000 Custom Shop Gibson Historics made in the US. Gibson has (or had as of last year when I kinda fell outta the loop). some of the WORST quality control in the game. And when you think that even their most basic low priced models are still $1000, its totally unacceptable.

Gibson is but a shell of its former self. In the late 50s they made THE most iconic guitar in rock n roll history with the Les Paul Standard Sunburst. Every one of your guitar heros from the 60s and 70s used one. Clapton, Page, Frampton,f Green, Moore, Rossington, Kossoff, Beck, Richards, Frehley, Gibbons, and the list goes on. Arguably the best guitar ever made and they can fetch millions depending on the history of it.

And now? Pfft, Henry is ruining the company. Jacking the prices, making horrible changes, using shitty materials, ever increasingly machine made, etc, etc. Just terrible.

Part of their material issues arise from them pissing off the EPA years back by buying black market ebony and importing it into the US. Those horrid "richlite" fretboards came out of that.

They are over priced though. IMHO PRS is the best guitar money can buy right now without having one hand made by a master luthier.

Ibanez does make some awesome instruments but I've found some of the same quality issues with the as I have with other companies.

Three guitars I kick myself in the ass for selling were; 1) 30th anniversary LP, 2) a late 70's solid body Ibanez Artist and 3) an Ibanez Joe Pass hollow body.

The LP I wish I could have kept because of its current value, the other two because of their playabilty.

 

[Air Blower]

I only have my two electrics. My Fernandes frankensteinocaster, and my SG special. I probably would not have bought the SG if I didn't get it for $350 two years ago. Finish wise, Gibson did a horrible job. You can see the sanding marks under the black finish. But the playability is really nice, and changing out the bridge pickup to a Seymour Duncan JB really nailed the tone.

The only part of the Fernandes that is original is the body, and the neck plate.
View attachment 45529

Love the checker plate pick guard!

Is the pot split (volume/tone)?

And are the toggles on/off for pickups?

 

[pescadore]

PRS SEs are hit or miss, like anything coming out of China/Korea. Get a good one and it can be almost as good as a guitar twice the price. But they arent guitars you wanna get through the internet, because there are definitely duds that just suck too.

I agree with this statement about any guitar. I have never purchased a guitar that I did not play first. When I bought the PRS SE, I met the guy at Guitar Center and they allowed me to bring it in and play it through the amp of my choice. I bought my little Fender Champ X2 that day and have never looked back. My point was that you have to find the right guitar by playing them not necessarily by just buying a brand name USA made guitar. I have owned more than one USA Strat and a couple of Les Pauls that do not sound as good or play as good as my SE. I believe my guitar is one of those special guitars that come through the factory and the only way to know for sure is to play a bunch of different guitars and find one that fits the way you play and the kind of music you like the best. You can get a dud with any guitar including those name brands made in the USA. DO NOT BUY A GUITAR THAT YOU HAVEN'T PLAYED NO MATTER WHAT BRAND unless you are just buying a vintage collectable that your aren't gonna play anyway.

 

[Air Blower]

I agree with this statement about any guitar. I have never purchased a guitar that I did not play first. When I bought the PRS SE, I met the guy at Guitar Center and they allowed me to bring it in and play it through the amp of my choice. I bought my little Fender Champ X2 that day and have never looked back. My point was that you have to find the right guitar by playing them not necessarily by just buying a brand name USA made guitar. I have owned more than one USA Strat and a couple of Les Pauls that do not sound as good or play as good as my SE. I believe my guitar is one of those special guitars that come through the factory and the only way to know for sure is to play a bunch of different guitars and find one that fits the way you play and the kind of music you like the best. You can get a dud with any guitar including those name brands made in the USA. DO NOT BUY A GUITAR THAT YOU HAVEN'T PLAYED NO MATTER WHAT BRAND unless you are just buying a vintage collectable that your aren't gonna play anyway.

I had the same experience when I bought my SE.

I went to the music store and played a few and wasn't overly impressed with any. Forgot about it for a month or two then picked up my Santana SE when I was stopping to buy strings one day and it was....different. I sat down and played it through a Tubemeister 18 and was totally impressed and ended up buying the guitar and the amp.

 

[pescadore]

I had the same experience when I bought my SE.

I went to the music store and played a few and wasn't overly impressed with any. Forgot about it for a month or two then picked up my Santana SE when I was stopping to buy strings one day and it was....different. I sat down and played it through a Tubemeister 18 and was totally impressed and ended up buying the guitar and the amp.

Nice Amp ... love the H&K just a little out of my price range.

 

[Air Blower]

Nice Amp ... love the H&K just a little out of my price range.

It's a nice amp

I did re-tube it though. Put Tung Sol 12ax7's and JJ EL84's in it and it's sweet as pie now

 

[jimbodaddy74]

Love the checker plate pick guard!

Is the pot split (volume/tone)?

And are the toggles on/off for pickups?

I hand made the pickguard from aluminum diamond plate. The knob is only volume. I never had much use for a tone knob. And, yes, the toggle switches are for each pickup. I ususally don't use more than one pickup at a time, because they are so wildly different. The bridge is a Seymour Duncan Hot Rails, Seymour Duncan Alnico pro 2 in the middle, and a Seymour Duncan Quarter Pounder in the neck. Basically, I've tweaked every part of this guitar to be exactly what I want.

I use a Tube Works Mosvalve amp with 2x12 Celestion Vintage 30's.

 

[Skullzz]

I always "play" a guitar before buying...but I am a beginner so not always sure what to look for...I just buy what feels right to me. I tried the Fender Tele, thought I really wanted one, until I played it. Thick and felt bulky to me. I am female and have small hands and found the frets/neck to be a bit uncomfortable. I love my LTD, easy to play and feels just right.

 

[jimbodaddy74]

I always "play" a guitar before buying...but I am a beginner so not always sure what to look for...I just buy what feels right to me. I tried the Fender Tele, thought I really wanted one, until I played it. Thick and felt bulky to me. I am female and have small hands and found the frets/neck to be a bit uncomfortable. I love my LTD, easy to play and feels just right.

The Fender necks are typically a 25.5" scale length. The LTD may be a 24.75" scale length. That puts the frets a little closer together, and less string tension at full tune. Coupled with a thinner neck, that would be ideal for smaller hands. My Gibson is 24 3/4" scale length with a chunky neck. Feels nice since I have large hands. When I ordered my neck for my Strat, it was made with a slightly chunkier neck with massive frets, and a compound fretboard radius. It's made of Goncalo with an ebony fretboard. Add the massive Kahler bridge, and it weighs just about as much as a Les Paul.

 

[Skullzz]

Here's a question...what's the story with Jumbo Frets? The LTD I have has those and when researching I was debating on whether or not to get a guitar with Jumbo Frets on it. Turns out that I am able to bar chords better and overall sound better. As a beginner I have no clue what they really do or what purpose they are really for, I just find it easier to play with Jumbo Frets with small, weak hands.....is that how it's supposed to be? Still trying to understand those.

 

[robot zombie]

Have you checked the neck and frets using a straight edge with strings off?

I've had a couple old Ibanez I ended up doing total re-fret jobs on because they had been re-croned a couple times and there wasn't enough meat left to save the frets.

If you have any string buzzing it could very well be some flats and highs on your frets. Re-crowning isn't too hard, just tedious and requires a few tools.

The neck is fine. I check it regularly because there's no finish on the back. Don't need a straight edge to tell me that a few frets are shot, though. It's very obvious. I can see 2-3mm dips in the frets (some chips and cuts, too.) They would have to go from jumbo to medium to be rounded-off again It has been through some shit being transported over the years. No buzzing, though. It's just certain fret/string combinations that wind up being just barely noticeably off-pitch because the strings are dropping into those little dips. Most frets are fine, but the ones I hit the most are done for.

Partial re-fret and crown might not be a bad idea. I might try it just to get some experience doing that. Research time!

And if I ruin the fretboard, then so be it. Pretty much all of their wizard necks have the same mount layout and they're pretty easy to come by. People seem to like modding their Ibes. I've got no problems using an 8-year-old cheapo wizard series neck if it's in good condition... ...I'm playing on one now and if it wasn't so beat-up, I'd love it.

Here's a question...what's the story with Jumbo Frets? The LTD I have has those and when researching I was debating on whether or not to get a guitar with Jumbo Frets on it. Turns out that I am able to bar chords better and overall sound better. As a beginner I have no clue what they really do or what purpose they are really for, I just find it easier to play with Jumbo Frets with small, weak hands.....is that how it's supposed to be? Still trying to understand those.

Bigger, wider contact surfaces give you more stability. Jumbo's are a bit more forgiving of where your fingers sit relative to the frets. You don't have to be as accurate or press down as hard. Easier bending, too. You may get more sustain in exchange for less clarity and intonation accuracy.

Personally, I think its just a matter of preference. Some people like the smoothness of jumbo frets, while others prefer the more tactile medium frets. After a while of playing, finger strength and fretting accuracy isn't as much of a factor (you can hone them on pretty much any guitar.) You can play on either or. Really comes down to what style of music you're playing, and what sort of fretting techniques you use most often.

 

[Pancho_Brown]

My electric ukulele. 12oz. bottle of coke for size comparison

I'm sorry buddy, but you are going to have to tell me where you found that beauty. I need one in my life.

 

[Air Blower]

I hand made the pickguard from aluminum diamond plate. The knob is only volume. I never had much use for a tone knob. And, yes, the toggle switches are for each pickup. I ususally don't use more than one pickup at a time, because they are so wildly different. The bridge is a Seymour Duncan Hot Rails, Seymour Duncan Alnico pro 2 in the middle, and a Seymour Duncan Quarter Pounder in the neck. Basically, I've tweaked every part of this guitar to be exactly what I want.

I use a Tube Works Mosvalve amp with 2x12 Celestion Vintage 30's.

Fernandes made some really innovative stuff!

Love Duncan JB's, nice balanced tone.

Very cool guitar

 

[Air Blower]

The neck is fine. I check it regularly because there's no finish on the back. Don't need a straight edge to tell me that a few frets are shot, though. It's very obvious. I can see 2-3mm dips in the frets (some chips and cuts, too.) They would have to go from jumbo to medium to be rounded-off again It has been through some shit being transported over the years. No buzzing, though. It's just certain fret/string combinations that wind up being just barely noticeably off-pitch because the strings are dropping into those little dips. Most frets are fine, but the ones I hit the most are done for.

Partial re-fret and crown might not be a bad idea. I might try it just to get some experience doing that. Research time!

And if I ruin the fretboard, then so be it. Pretty much all of their wizard necks have the same mount layout and they're pretty easy to come by. People seem to like modding their Ibes. I've got no problems using an 8-year-old cheapo wizard series neck if it's in good condition... ...I'm playing on one now and if it wasn't so beat-up, I'd love it.


Bigger, wider contact surfaces give you more stability. Jumbo's are a bit more forgiving of where your fingers sit relative to the frets. You don't have to be as accurate or press down as hard. Easier bending, too. You may get more sustain in exchange for less clarity and intonation accuracy.

Personally, I think its just a matter of preference. Some people like the smoothness of jumbo frets, while others prefer the more tactile medium frets. After a while of playing, finger strength and fretting accuracy isn't as much of a factor (you can hone them on pretty much any guitar.) You can play on either or. Really comes down to what style of music you're playing, and what sort of fretting techniques you use most often.

There's some awesome videos on fret work on youtube.

I watch plenty when I'm getting ready to do major repairs even if I think I know exactly what I'm doing because it's always great to learn tips and tricks.

This guys series is pretty tedious but he goes through everything and his section on prepping frets is excellent;

 

[Air Blower]

Here's a question...what's the story with Jumbo Frets? The LTD I have has those and when researching I was debating on whether or not to get a guitar with Jumbo Frets on it. Turns out that I am able to bar chords better and overall sound better. As a beginner I have no clue what they really do or what purpose they are really for, I just find it easier to play with Jumbo Frets with small, weak hands.....is that how it's supposed to be? Still trying to understand those.

Like Robot said, ease of play is the main reason but with that comes the possibility of sharp notes depending on the height of the frets.

 

[Skullzz]

Like Robot said, ease of play is the main reason but with that comes the possibility of sharp notes depending on the height of the frets.

So, basically, it's a trade off. Play easier but notes can come out different....did I get that right? These are pretty high from what I have noticed. Only note change my novice ears can really hear is on the low E on the first couple of frets....get a muted sound sometimes.

 

[Air Blower]

So, basically, it's a trade off. Play easier but notes can come out different....did I get that right? These are pretty high from what I have noticed. Only note change my novice ears can really hear is on the low E on the first couple of frets....get a muted sound sometimes.

Pretty much, ya

Muted notes though are a different story.

That could be a badly prepped fret or poorly made nut.

 

[Air Blower]

Found some pics of guitars gone by(e). This one was a Warmoth body, don't remember what I had for pick ups.

 

[Air Blower]

This was a nice tele. Don't know why the hell I got rid of it! The speakers were made by my bro and are based on old Altec model 19's.

 

[Skullzz]

Pretty much, ya

Muted notes though are a different story.

That could be a badly prepped fret or poorly made nut.

maybe mutted is the wrong word...on the first fret it's like i cannot press down hard enough. Know that sound it makes when you don't press the string all the way to the fret...that nails on chalkboard sound? It does that...maybe because the string is so high up from the jumbos I just can't press it hard enough lol.

 

[jimbodaddy74]

maybe mutted is the wrong word...on the first fret it's like i cannot press down hard enough. Know that sound it makes when you don't press the string all the way to the fret...that nails on chalkboard sound? It does that...maybe because the string is so high up from the jumbos I just can't press it hard enough lol.

Sounds a bit like the nut is too high.

 

[Skullzz]

Sounds a bit like the nut is too high.

Sounds like a guy problem lolol! In all seriousness, how do I fix that? Not sure what that even means lol

 

[jimbodaddy74]

The nut is where the strings rest at the headstock. Being a beginner, you should find a good local shop to take it to and have them give it a once over. I only have one guy local to me who I would trust to work on mine. It would be a pretty tough interview for anyoune else to even open the latches on my case, let alone be near it with a fret file.

 

[Skullzz]

The nut is where the strings rest at the headstock. Being a beginner, you should find a good local shop to take it to and have them give it a once over. I only have one guy local to me who I would trust to work on mine. It would be a pretty tough interview for anyoune else to even open the latches on my case, let alone be near it with a fret file.

There is a music store up the road from me, family owned place, I will take the guitar there tomorrow and see what they say. It is only a couple months old, purchased it at Guitar Center....they weren't much help unfortunately.

 

[jimbodaddy74]

There is a music store up the road from me, family owned place, I will take the guitar there tomorrow and see what they say. It is only a couple months old, purchased it at Guitar Center....they weren't much help unfortunately.

Guitar Center rarely sets up guitars beyond tuning them up and throwing them on the wall.

 

[Mythical_OD]

Guitar Center tunes their guitars? Coulda fooled me lol. I think they just unbox and throw em right on the wall. EVERY guitar Ive ever played at guitar center has been out of tune lol, not once has it been good to go. Even the $3200 Gibsons werent in tune.

 

[jimbodaddy74]

Okay. Maybe it was the customer before me who took the time to tune it. I was giving them the benefit of the doubt.