So I have one of these
https://www.aliceinvapeland.com/product/rebuildable-barrel-atomizer-purple-copy/
cheap RBAs. I guess it's time I learn how to rebuild the coil/wicks.
I have no idea what I am doing
Please help
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- Thread starter cherrycakes
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So I have one of these
https://www.aliceinvapeland.com/product/rebuildable-barrel-atomizer-purple-copy/
cheap RBAs. I guess it's time I learn how to rebuild the coil/wicks.
I have no idea what I am doing
Please help
Good wire to start with is going to be 28-32 ga depending on how low you want to go.
Since those are more flavor tester type atties IMHO due to lack of deck space and air flow you will want to rock a single coil.
Get a 5/64 drill bit or a 3/32 both will work just fine. go watch some youtube vids for coil wrapping. 5/6 or 7/8 wraps will get you well above 1 ohm and preform decently for you.
Wrap the coil and pull a chunk of cotton through it.
Test it and juice it and there ya go
Since those are more flavor tester type atties IMHO due to lack of deck space and air flow you will want to rock a single coil.
Get a 5/64 drill bit or a 3/32 both will work just fine. go watch some youtube vids for coil wrapping. 5/6 or 7/8 wraps will get you well above 1 ohm and preform decently for you.
Wrap the coil and pull a chunk of cotton through it.
Test it and juice it and there ya go
P1NkY
Member For 4 Years
Hi, cherrycakes! My first RDA was very similar to that one (Cyclone clone, AKA Chyclone) and I still enjoy it on occasion.
This is how I set mine up most of the time (I use 32 ga wire):
I use a small screwdriver like the ones supplied with many RDAs. It's shaft is approximately 2mm thick, so you can use any similar sized smooth rod such as a drill bit or even a round toothpick to wrap your coil around.
Loosen both thumbscrews on your RDA enough to see completely through both holes in the posts.
Screw the RDA into a locked mod (or remove the battery beforehand) or rebuilder's base for ease of installation and safety, stability, sanity, etc.
Cut a length of wire. 4 inches is OK, 5 or more is easier to hold onto (I use about 3 becuz tightwad).
You may or may not want to torch the wire to make it less springy (I don't do it anymore becuz lazy).
Pinch one end of the wire along with your chosen rod and hold tight.
Start wrapping the wire around the rod tightly. Do not overlap the wire.
Always wrap at least 1 more turn than what you want so you can unwrap the first turn you've made, as that turn is usually not as neat as the rest. I use 5 turns for about a 1.7 ohms coil and 6 for about a 2 ohm coil. Your results may vary, so add or subtract turns as needed.
Don't remove the coil from the rod. Make sure you have both ends going the same way. Tidy up the coil (a lot if you're as OCD as I am).
Cut one of the ends slightly shorter than the other for easier installation in the RDA.
Bring the coil with rod still in place to the RDA and feed the wire ends through the posts (if you cut one end shorter, you'll hate me less).
Use the rod to hold the coil in place while you position it where you want it. You want to hold the coil directly over the small air hole on the deck.
Once you have it there, snug down the thumbscrews so it doesn't move.
Reposition the coil as needed, keeping it over the air hole and making sure the coil does not touch the deck or go past the deck's edge which will make a short with the top cap. Your best bet is keeping it close to the posts but making sure just the ends of the wire touch the posts and not any of the coil turns. It sounds much harder than it really is, trust me.
Once you are satisfied with the coil's posistion, tighten the thumbscrews (but don't crank them down, as they can cut through the wire and you'll have to start over.
Cut the excess wire from the other side of the posts.
Check the resistance of your coil now, either on an ohm checker, APV or multimeter. If you used 5-6 turns of 32 ga wire, it should read anywhere from 1.5 to 2.0 ohms, which is fine, even on eGo batteries.
If your coil is good, you can put it on a mod and give it a few test fires (pulse the coil) to see if it glows evenly. You may use tweezers after letting go of the fire button to lightly squeeze the coils together and/or reposition the coil further. This action "locks" the coil shape a bit. Just be sure to make the coil glow, let go of the fire button and immediately squeeze (unless you have one of those fancy ceramic-tipped tweezers, in which case you can fire away while squeezing the coil). I usually skip this entire test fire/squeeze step, again, becuz lazybonez.
For the next part, be sure to re-lock your mod or remove it's battery again.
Get your wicking material and thread it through. If you want to use silica with this method of coiling, you can fold it over and use a bit of wire (or a needle threader) to thread it through the coil. The silica needs to pretty thin though.
* If you want to know how I coil on silica (it's different from this), let me know*
I use cotton ball, uh, cotton. Unroll ball, separate a strip, roll in (preferably very clean) hands, roll end into a fine point and thread through the coil. You want it to thread through with little force, but enough to completely fill the inside of the coil. If it starts to want to pull or deform your coil, STOP and pull it back out (TWSS). Reposition coil, use less cotton and try again.
Try and get enough cotton through so you can lightly place it around the deck. Do not pack it tight, you want it nice and loose/fluffy. Don't obstruct the airhole with it.
Cut the ends off with scissors or nail clippers and soak dat cotton with your chosen juice.
Replace top cap, being careful not to pinch the cotton with it, unlock ur mod and vape.
Your first puffs may or may not taste a bit "clothy". This will go away after a few more puffs, so don't worry.
Keep it wet. You'll know when the taste changes or gets "light" to re-drip.
Sorry for the mega-post and I hope it helps you or anyone else! Take care!
This is how I set mine up most of the time (I use 32 ga wire):
I use a small screwdriver like the ones supplied with many RDAs. It's shaft is approximately 2mm thick, so you can use any similar sized smooth rod such as a drill bit or even a round toothpick to wrap your coil around.
Loosen both thumbscrews on your RDA enough to see completely through both holes in the posts.
Screw the RDA into a locked mod (or remove the battery beforehand) or rebuilder's base for ease of installation and safety, stability, sanity, etc.
Cut a length of wire. 4 inches is OK, 5 or more is easier to hold onto (I use about 3 becuz tightwad).
You may or may not want to torch the wire to make it less springy (I don't do it anymore becuz lazy).
Pinch one end of the wire along with your chosen rod and hold tight.
Start wrapping the wire around the rod tightly. Do not overlap the wire.
Always wrap at least 1 more turn than what you want so you can unwrap the first turn you've made, as that turn is usually not as neat as the rest. I use 5 turns for about a 1.7 ohms coil and 6 for about a 2 ohm coil. Your results may vary, so add or subtract turns as needed.
Don't remove the coil from the rod. Make sure you have both ends going the same way. Tidy up the coil (a lot if you're as OCD as I am).
Cut one of the ends slightly shorter than the other for easier installation in the RDA.
Bring the coil with rod still in place to the RDA and feed the wire ends through the posts (if you cut one end shorter, you'll hate me less).
Use the rod to hold the coil in place while you position it where you want it. You want to hold the coil directly over the small air hole on the deck.
Once you have it there, snug down the thumbscrews so it doesn't move.
Reposition the coil as needed, keeping it over the air hole and making sure the coil does not touch the deck or go past the deck's edge which will make a short with the top cap. Your best bet is keeping it close to the posts but making sure just the ends of the wire touch the posts and not any of the coil turns. It sounds much harder than it really is, trust me.
Once you are satisfied with the coil's posistion, tighten the thumbscrews (but don't crank them down, as they can cut through the wire and you'll have to start over.
Cut the excess wire from the other side of the posts.
Check the resistance of your coil now, either on an ohm checker, APV or multimeter. If you used 5-6 turns of 32 ga wire, it should read anywhere from 1.5 to 2.0 ohms, which is fine, even on eGo batteries.
If your coil is good, you can put it on a mod and give it a few test fires (pulse the coil) to see if it glows evenly. You may use tweezers after letting go of the fire button to lightly squeeze the coils together and/or reposition the coil further. This action "locks" the coil shape a bit. Just be sure to make the coil glow, let go of the fire button and immediately squeeze (unless you have one of those fancy ceramic-tipped tweezers, in which case you can fire away while squeezing the coil). I usually skip this entire test fire/squeeze step, again, becuz lazybonez.
For the next part, be sure to re-lock your mod or remove it's battery again.
Get your wicking material and thread it through. If you want to use silica with this method of coiling, you can fold it over and use a bit of wire (or a needle threader) to thread it through the coil. The silica needs to pretty thin though.
* If you want to know how I coil on silica (it's different from this), let me know*
I use cotton ball, uh, cotton. Unroll ball, separate a strip, roll in (preferably very clean) hands, roll end into a fine point and thread through the coil. You want it to thread through with little force, but enough to completely fill the inside of the coil. If it starts to want to pull or deform your coil, STOP and pull it back out (TWSS). Reposition coil, use less cotton and try again.
Try and get enough cotton through so you can lightly place it around the deck. Do not pack it tight, you want it nice and loose/fluffy. Don't obstruct the airhole with it.
Cut the ends off with scissors or nail clippers and soak dat cotton with your chosen juice.
Replace top cap, being careful not to pinch the cotton with it, unlock ur mod and vape.
Your first puffs may or may not taste a bit "clothy". This will go away after a few more puffs, so don't worry.
Keep it wet. You'll know when the taste changes or gets "light" to re-drip.
Sorry for the mega-post and I hope it helps you or anyone else! Take care!
Good post @P1NkY
@cherrycakes My first rda was that same one only silver. It's a very good place to start imo.
http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=...gSLAo_pQAf7sL4J4-fzXvhA&bvm=bv.75097201,d.aWw
If you do a Google search for Smoktech Octopus you will find several videos for building and several reviews.
@cherrycakes My first rda was that same one only silver. It's a very good place to start imo.
http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=...gSLAo_pQAf7sL4J4-fzXvhA&bvm=bv.75097201,d.aWw
If you do a Google search for Smoktech Octopus you will find several videos for building and several reviews.
Thats a cute thingy I like it
So I have one of these
https://www.aliceinvapeland.com/product/rebuildable-barrel-atomizer-purple-copy/
cheap RBAs. I guess it's time I learn how to rebuild the coil/wicks.
I have no idea what I am doing
Please help
Wow another helpful soul... I Like you. I just may hire you to do all my coils but I do have over 20 RDA's
P1NkY
Member For 4 Years
I wish I could, honestly. Sounds like funWow another helpful soul... I Like you. I just may hire you to do all my coils but I do have over 20 RDA's
I like rebuilding and have always enjoyed fixing stuff.
Even taking working stuff apart just to see how it works, or improve upon it (my parents hated that, especially at christmastime, LOL).
Any questions, please feel free to ask.
P1NkY
Member For 4 Years
I should note, before I start, that I use 32g nichrome wire. No special reason for this, other than it was the only one (very cheaply) available to me 3 years ago from Temco seller on eBay. They have since stocked up on kanthal, but I still have plenty of nichrome left on that first 100 foot spool.
The only reason I mention this is that nichrome slightly lower resistance than kanthal for the same length and gauge. This means If you followed my instructions and used 32g kanthal you probably ended up with a higher ohm coil than expected. Not a big deal, but if it bothers you, just coil one less wrap than specified. I forgot to mention this in my previous (mega)post.
The way I coil silica is nothing "special", but if you're a beginner, you might find something useful here... maybe?
OK, on silica, I actually recommend you do torch your wire beforehand. It anneals (softens or takes a bit of the springiness out of) the wire a bit and that makes the coils not want to unwind as much on you. It may darken or discolor a bit, especially if you use a butane lighter, but it does not seem to hurt anything, except aesthetics. Shiny coils do look nice, though...
How much silica to cut depends on what device it will go on and what you want to achieve.
For Protank heads, I use about an inch of 2mm silica (you'll end up cutting about half of that away anyway). You might get away with 3mm for a snug fit with no "flavor wicks" on it. People call the wick(s) you lay on top of the coil "flavor wicks", I call them flood-stopper wicks because to me, that is their true purpose.
Hold a pin, needle or similar alongside your silica. If your silica is thick enough, you can sometimes insert it through the center. This give you added stability and makes for a neater, rounder coil. It's not critical, though.
Pinch your silica, pin and wire at one end securely (clean, dry fingers are a must, as silica easily "acquires" the taste of anything it touches - don't ask) and start carefully wrapping your wire around the silica. You want your wire to make full contact with the silica. Snug is OK, (that's partly what the pin is for) but don't go crazy tight or it will choke and give you nothing but dry hits.
For Protank heads, you want the turns to be close and even. They can separate a little, but remember that it has to fit in a pretty small area. Do not remove the pin until the installation of the wick/coil in the head is complete. The pin will help prevent the coil from going too deep into the head when the leads are pulled snug. Do not cut the leads until the coil is snug and the rubber insulator and center pin are seated fully. When you are satisfied with the coil position and the leads are nice and snug, do not cut them flush. Leave tiny (~1mm) ends on the leads. This will prevent your leads from backing into the head and coming loose. bend them up with the flat part of your tweezers and leave them be.
NOW you can remove the pin. Replace the top silicone insulator and see if it fits snug over the wick tails with no air gaps over them. If it does have gaps, it may flood on you. Cut (and save) the tails off the wick leaving about 1-2mm on each side of the insulator. Silica is usually made up of three strands twisted together, so unravel the saved tails, take the silicone insulator off and take one or two of these strands and lay them on top of your coil. Replace the insulator and recheck the gap. Cut the excess silica even with the tails and you're done.
For larger RDAs, like your IgoL, you may want to double or triple your wick for longer vaping time between drips. You will want to use a slightly thicker needle (small straightened paperclips work) to wrap around, as it will need more space between the silica fibers for the juice to flow freely.
Some more tips:
- Make sure the coil is at the same level as the airhole in the top cap or slightly higher for the best vapor production . To check, hold the cap alongside the deck, at the level it should be when installed. Or just look through the hole when installed
- Distance from the coil to the airhole determines quality of vape. Closer to the airhole gives more vapor and flavor and less throat hit. Farther is the opposite. I prefer in between, as if the coil legs are too long, they may light up and give a harsh burny taste similar to when it is dry.
- Make graceful bends in the silica, especially close to the coil, as tight bends will choke off juice flow and require more frequent dripping.
- The ideal snugness of your coils around the silica would be full contact without squeezing it. This allows juice to flow freely between the fibers. Too tight chokes it (dry hits) and too loose makes the coils light up (burnt hits). For a looser wick, use a thicker needle when coiling.
- If you leave one of the silica ends sticking up out of the deck (reaching up into the top cap) it will be a bit more fiddly/messy to replace the top cap, but it will "scavenge" the liquid that always tends to accumulate in the top cap.
TL;DR: I don't blame you. I tend to ramble... sorry.
The only reason I mention this is that nichrome slightly lower resistance than kanthal for the same length and gauge. This means If you followed my instructions and used 32g kanthal you probably ended up with a higher ohm coil than expected. Not a big deal, but if it bothers you, just coil one less wrap than specified. I forgot to mention this in my previous (mega)post.
The way I coil silica is nothing "special", but if you're a beginner, you might find something useful here... maybe?
OK, on silica, I actually recommend you do torch your wire beforehand. It anneals (softens or takes a bit of the springiness out of) the wire a bit and that makes the coils not want to unwind as much on you. It may darken or discolor a bit, especially if you use a butane lighter, but it does not seem to hurt anything, except aesthetics. Shiny coils do look nice, though...
How much silica to cut depends on what device it will go on and what you want to achieve.
For Protank heads, I use about an inch of 2mm silica (you'll end up cutting about half of that away anyway). You might get away with 3mm for a snug fit with no "flavor wicks" on it. People call the wick(s) you lay on top of the coil "flavor wicks", I call them flood-stopper wicks because to me, that is their true purpose.
Hold a pin, needle or similar alongside your silica. If your silica is thick enough, you can sometimes insert it through the center. This give you added stability and makes for a neater, rounder coil. It's not critical, though.
Pinch your silica, pin and wire at one end securely (clean, dry fingers are a must, as silica easily "acquires" the taste of anything it touches - don't ask) and start carefully wrapping your wire around the silica. You want your wire to make full contact with the silica. Snug is OK, (that's partly what the pin is for) but don't go crazy tight or it will choke and give you nothing but dry hits.
For Protank heads, you want the turns to be close and even. They can separate a little, but remember that it has to fit in a pretty small area. Do not remove the pin until the installation of the wick/coil in the head is complete. The pin will help prevent the coil from going too deep into the head when the leads are pulled snug. Do not cut the leads until the coil is snug and the rubber insulator and center pin are seated fully. When you are satisfied with the coil position and the leads are nice and snug, do not cut them flush. Leave tiny (~1mm) ends on the leads. This will prevent your leads from backing into the head and coming loose. bend them up with the flat part of your tweezers and leave them be.
NOW you can remove the pin. Replace the top silicone insulator and see if it fits snug over the wick tails with no air gaps over them. If it does have gaps, it may flood on you. Cut (and save) the tails off the wick leaving about 1-2mm on each side of the insulator. Silica is usually made up of three strands twisted together, so unravel the saved tails, take the silicone insulator off and take one or two of these strands and lay them on top of your coil. Replace the insulator and recheck the gap. Cut the excess silica even with the tails and you're done.
For larger RDAs, like your IgoL, you may want to double or triple your wick for longer vaping time between drips. You will want to use a slightly thicker needle (small straightened paperclips work) to wrap around, as it will need more space between the silica fibers for the juice to flow freely.
Some more tips:
- Make sure the coil is at the same level as the airhole in the top cap or slightly higher for the best vapor production . To check, hold the cap alongside the deck, at the level it should be when installed. Or just look through the hole when installed
- Distance from the coil to the airhole determines quality of vape. Closer to the airhole gives more vapor and flavor and less throat hit. Farther is the opposite. I prefer in between, as if the coil legs are too long, they may light up and give a harsh burny taste similar to when it is dry.
- Make graceful bends in the silica, especially close to the coil, as tight bends will choke off juice flow and require more frequent dripping.
- The ideal snugness of your coils around the silica would be full contact without squeezing it. This allows juice to flow freely between the fibers. Too tight chokes it (dry hits) and too loose makes the coils light up (burnt hits). For a looser wick, use a thicker needle when coiling.
- If you leave one of the silica ends sticking up out of the deck (reaching up into the top cap) it will be a bit more fiddly/messy to replace the top cap, but it will "scavenge" the liquid that always tends to accumulate in the top cap.
TL;DR: I don't blame you. I tend to ramble... sorry.
As Pinky mentioned, its similar to the Vicous Ant Cyclone in that the small deck and chamber allows for a concentrated vape. Airflow is a little less than desirable, but in any event, a simple, 1ohm coil will get you great results.
Pic below is my old cyclone with a 28g wire wrapped 8 times around a 1/16 bit which should put you around 1 ohm. Be sure to compress the coils tight as pictured, that will help amplify the flavor. A short 1 inch cotton strand that's goes through the coil not too tight, not too loose will do you just fine.
happy vaping!
Pic below is my old cyclone with a 28g wire wrapped 8 times around a 1/16 bit which should put you around 1 ohm. Be sure to compress the coils tight as pictured, that will help amplify the flavor. A short 1 inch cotton strand that's goes through the coil not too tight, not too loose will do you just fine.
happy vaping!