Crown vs Kick, anyone out there use the Crown?

[Cessnapix]

I am thinking of trying the crown in a box mod for ease of changing the power setting, and the audible sound to let you know the actual wattage it is set to. The kicks dial is somehting to be desired and find myself with a kick clone kind of chasing the thing around a little. The set up I am using it in requires it to be somewhat fastened down in a box mod and also for the ground.

I wanted to hear some input from people who have used the crown, and maybe the kick as well as the crown and give me some feedback on the crown please.

It apperars to be a bit shorter than the kick, has audible feedback, in beeps. User settings from clicks of the fire button. Sounds intruiging. Help please!

Also it apears that a safe fuse is recommended where the kick has the circiutt built in. So is it really shorter.
just so ther is no confusion here with anyone i am talking about this crown not the RDA.

 

[Cessnapix]

Well no info on this site so I looked on ECF and found a thread there where it appears to be a decent unit.

The Crown 2.0

1) It is audible, and set by tones on the fire button so in the application i have, that it will be srewed in my box mod, it will be much easier to set.

2) It is almost half the thickness of a kick. 8mm vs 15mm so it will not colapse the spring. which is the saftey fuse in this device.

3) It delivers a constant dc wave rather than a pulse wave that is output from the kick.

Safe fuse is not needed.

 

[Cessnapix]

Well if anyone gives a crap this Crown 2.0 is the bomb! I love this thing. 6 simple commands you hit the fire button to set. it plays back beeps for atty resistance or wattage. can change to voltage and play the output of that

Adjust on the fly with out taking abart and moving with a screw driver. lock the wattge you want in and forget.

Great for prople like me who do not vape at high wattage.

I love this thing!

 

[Hobby Kid]

Hey Cessnapix I'd never heard of the crown before. Just watched the video. I have a lot of kicks from fasttech that were cheap plus an authentic. How much is the Crown? I do like the idea of not having to open up the mod to change the settings

 

[Cessnapix]

They are produced by artisan vapes I believe. There are a few vendors also. i bought mine from RTD vapes

http://www.rtdvapor.com/kick-and-crown/

under accessories right beside the kick

I paid the same price as an authentic kick 2,0 cost at $45

For use in a box mod the thinner size is nice. for a tube mod you add the vape safe fuse and magnet for a 18500 to replace an 18650.

I absolutley love it.

the ouput is a buck state output with constant dc. not Pulse. i have read they are harder on battery life by 10% to 20% but that was a review i read on ECF.

I really fell in love with this thing.

i nevr knew where i was with a kick and as far as wattage. this beeps out the wattage and the resisitance. for 2 ohm coil. it beeps twice.

for a 1.7 ohm coil you get 1 long beep with 7 short. I am using it in a modified REO VV. mod and the audible is plenty loud enough for my deafness

the 2.0 version is also blue. it switchess from watts to volts as you want. The older model you needed to either buy the voltage or wattages unit.

 

[Hobby Kid]

Thanks for that. I'm surprised it hasn't really been mentioned. So is it safe to put kicks and crowns in a battery housing? I've always wondered about this. I bought a batch of both vv and vw kicks from fasttech for this very reason but then I wondered if it was safe for those watts to run along the pos wire to the 510, as I've only ever seen kick setups which are directly touching (i.e. the way they are in mechs)

 

[Cessnapix]

I am not sure exactly what you mean by a battery housing.........Do you mean like the reo i have mine in, or like a tube mod? i am slow sometimes.....They are built for tube type mods. However if you have an unregulated mod that is like a mech. I.E. the REO. The anodising has to be sanded down for the pin to ground on, and then it sits on top of the battery.

If you want to put it in lets say a wooden mod with out a lot of room for a chip and a display it is perfect. You would have to wire the ground to the neg. and the pos end would sit on the battery. or wired to it.

Does that answer the question?

ttyl gotta run for now.

 

[Hobby Kid]

I am not sure exactly what you mean by a battery housing.........Do you mean like the reo i have mine in, or like a tube mod? i am slow sometimes.....They are built for tube type mods. However if you have an unregulated mod that is like a mech. I.E. the REO. The anodising has to be sanded down for the pin to ground on, and then it sits on top of the battery.

If you want to put it in lets say a wooden mod with out a lot of room for a chip and a display it is perfect. You would have to wire the ground to the neg. and the pos end would sit on the battery. or wired to it.

Does that answer the question?

ttyl gotta run for now.

Yes that's it. You'd mentioned 'mod box' earlier. I know the terminals would have to be wired. I wasn't sure if it was safe to have a kick wired from it terminals to the 510 connections.

 

[Cessnapix]

I can see no reason why it wouldn't. The way I am using it doesn't require any solder. It sits between the contact switch and the positive end of the battery. The negative is just wrapped with brass ship stock and screwed into the aluminum body.

I had one kick that i started to take the piggy back boards apart and was going to solder them together so they would not be as thick and remount the pot. so it was easier to get at. but not neccesary now.

If you can find a way not to solder so it can be removed it wold be more versatile.

I was going to solder a screw post on the negative connection on my kick. It should be fine. especially if you use the vape safe fuse.

 

[Hobby Kid]

I can see no reason why it wouldn't. The way I am using it doesn't require any solder. It sits between the contact switch and the positive end of the battery. The negative is just wrapped with brass ship stock and screwed into the aluminum body.

I had one kick that i started to take the piggy back boards apart and was going to solder them together so they would not be as thick and remount the pot. so it was easier to get at. but not neccesary now.

If you can find a way not to solder so it can be removed it wold be more versatile.

I was going to solder a screw post on the negative connection on my kick. It should be fine. especially if you use the vape safe fuse.

Hm that's interesting. It's never occurred to me to dismantle the kick. I have enough to break one without missing it. Interesting concept. I've got a lot of boxes. Dismantle or not, if I wire it I could in effect place it anywhere I suppose.

I looked up your mod box, so I get what you're talking about. As for fuses, I have a couple of bags of poly fuses. But I haven't tested them yet. I think they're 3amp hold and 6amp hold. I read the poly fuses are wide ranging i.e. some reset within seconds and some can take a day

 

[Cessnapix]

These are the vape safe fuse they sell them on that same link with the crown. Or google vape safe fuse.

They can be used over a few times they reset themselves. i just got one dont know much about them.

But that is what i did iwith the kick, the three stand offs that seperate the piggy back kicks. i broke the plastic off the stand offs. i dont think they use each one as part of the circuit? But that is what I had in mind. i never got that far. I found the crown and read a few reviews on it a couple days ago on ECF.

The poly fuses maybe fine arounf your switches though? there are lots of discussions on modding forums