Cuboid Temp Control Issues

Discussion in 'Regulated (Voltage / Wattage / 3.7v/ Temp Control)' started by mjbrady83, Mar 17, 2016.

  1. mjbrady83

    mjbrady83 New Member

    Blog Posts:
    0
    Joined:
    Mar 17, 2016
    Messages:
    17
    So, I know there's been a lot of posts about problems with temp control on Joyetech products, but I've yet to find anyone having the exact same issue as me. I just picked up a Cuboid/Cubis combo and I've been playing around with it for the last few days and I have a few problems. I'm using the .5ohm ss316 coil heads. At first I used them in regular power mode. I noticed that they couldn't really keep up when chain vaping. I figured it's not wicking well enough for my 70/30 juice blend. They are some pretty small juice ports, after all. So i figured it's time to dive into TC on the Cuboid. So, I put the cuboid in temp ss316 mode, and then put a brand new cold coil into the tank. Resistance is reading at .5ohms, just as the package said the coil is. BUT! I'm noticing that just tapping the fire button one time, the temperature shows up on the screen as 185F, and it's a COLD coil. I set my temp to 450F, and 50 watts. It immediately hits protection, and I get hardly any vapor output. So I crank my temp to 500, and still having weak, unsatisfying vapor. Crank it up to 550, and it gets a little better, but still hitting protection and not really producing. Even with it maxed out at 600, I still get very cool vapor, and not much in the way of clouds. I've tried it with the resistance locked, and unlocked, no luck. I tried resetting the resistance by unscrewing the tank and hitting the fire button without an atty, no luck. After sitting on my desk for hours, and then tapping the fire button once (not holding) and the temp still shows up in the high 100F range. Sometimes it even shows over 200F, on a COLD device. I then tried using the Ni200 coils in nickel mode (bringing up another issue, my nickel coils taste like motor oil), and I have the same problem. It is reading that resistance at .21 (should be .2, so I guess within tolerances), but even on a COLD coil, tapping the fire button reveals a temp of 193F. Same issues as with stainless, hardly any vapor production and cold vapor at that. I'm using v3.10 firmware, but have tried 3.11, 3.01 and same issues with all. I finally tried using a custom TCR value. I came across another post recomending TCR of 130, and that actually seemed to get it close, but Steam Engine is saying 316 should be a TCR of 87. Right now I'm having to use custom TCR of 130, temp is 530F, at 50 watts, and it seems like it is actually getting in that temp range, but I also noticed that in TCR mode, tapping the fire button on the cold device shows a temp of 70F, which is right on the money, the AC is set right at 70 here. I don't know why it seems to be reading the correct base resistance, but for some reason attributes that to a high temperature in either ss316 or nickel mode. Also worth mentioning, I have never seen the New Coil screen come up, even when unscrewing the tank and hitting the fire button, then rescrewing. I have a vtc mini as well, and it seems to have similar issues, but I haven't really tested on that device, since I usually just use that with my kanthal coiled subtank mini.
     
  2. Vapomizer

    Vapomizer Silver Contributor Member For 1 Year

    Blog Posts:
    0
    Joined:
    Dec 16, 2015
    Messages:
    828
    Welcome to VU, this is a tough one, a few observations from your post:

    1- You said you tried the same Tank/Coil on the Evic VTC Mini as well and you get the same results? in this case your tank/coil could be the culprit.

    2- you sure your 510 and tank base are clean and are properly conductive? i think the accurate idle resistance reading is an indication of a good connection

    3- TC is not actually measuring the temperature of anything, it is just an approximation so do not expect it to match room temp when cold.

    4- One trick i do with Joyetech devices when they mess up, while the tank is screwed on firmly, connect it to your computer, downgrade the firmware then upgrade it again, this resets your readings and settings and force the mod to re-read and reset the initial idle resistance and in most times this fixes any inconsistency issues.

    5- i believe 50W is a bit too high for the Cubis and this is why it is hitting temp protect too fast and lowering your watts output a lot giving you little vapor, try 25-30W instead and see what happens.
     
  3. mjbrady83

    mjbrady83 New Member

    Blog Posts:
    0
    Joined:
    Mar 17, 2016
    Messages:
    17
    Thank you, I will try lowering watts. I understand that the mod doesn't actually read the temp, but it should be matching the base resistance to room temp. My point is that even at room temp, a single click of the button will show a temp of way higher than room temp, (175-215F range). This happens even when the mods been sitting for hours. My vtc mini needs firmware update, and I've only tried tc on it with nickel coils for my subtank. I believe the stainless preset on it is still set for 304 rather than 316, and I don't have the custom TCR firmware on it yet. I'll do some more testing on that and report back after I've upgraded.
     
  4. Vapomizer

    Vapomizer Silver Contributor Member For 1 Year

    Blog Posts:
    0
    Joined:
    Dec 16, 2015
    Messages:
    828
    How would the mod know your room temp? mine shows 169F degree with just one tap when it is cold and it still performs properly in TC, that is normal.

    Once upgraded the SS preset will be configured for the Cubis and should work fine, just stat at 20W and work your way up in 5W increments and see what happens.
     
  5. mjbrady83

    mjbrady83 New Member

    Blog Posts:
    0
    Joined:
    Mar 17, 2016
    Messages:
    17
    I don't think it "knows" room temp, although maybe it can by reading the temp of the board. It must have some sort of temp sensing for the board in order to give a thermal warning. At any rate, if it's matching my base resistance of .50 to a temp of 185F, then it's going to think it only has another 315 to go to hit 500, when in actuality it has to go up another 430. If reading that high is normal, how come it shows 70 when I do it in TCR mode?
     
  6. Vapomizer

    Vapomizer Silver Contributor Member For 1 Year

    Blog Posts:
    0
    Joined:
    Dec 16, 2015
    Messages:
    828
    That is a really interesting observation, yes it has an internal temp sensor and you could actually get its reading by clicking the fire button 10 times in succession from off state, 5 clicks to turn the device off and then 10 consecutive clicks to see the board temp, the first 5 clicks will turn it on, just keep going for 5 more and it will display the temp.

    But i do not think it uses that temp as a base for its TC function, i never noticed that with custom TCR it reads the resting temp lower, but in my case even though it starts at 169F it works properly, i can explain more but i need to be AFK at the moment, so will be back with more soon.
     
  7. Vapin4Joy

    Vapin4Joy Diamond Contributor Member For 3 Years

    Blog Posts:
    0
    Joined:
    Jul 17, 2015
    Messages:
    12,014
    Install 3.11 firmware update and try Smart Mode with the Cubis. It supposedly was released specific to the Cubis coils.
    I use it with a Crown .15ni, performs very well.
     
  8. mjbrady83

    mjbrady83 New Member

    Blog Posts:
    0
    Joined:
    Mar 17, 2016
    Messages:
    17
    OK, just finished updating the vtc mini, and I can confirm that both devices are functioning the same way. Temp ss316 mode, brand new coil, so it's cold, temp set at 500, watts at 30. Resistance of this coil is also coming out to .50. Tried tapping the fire button and the temp it shows is 168F. Locked the resistance, and took a puff. Like smoking an ultra light. Hardly any vapor, and extremely cool. Tried maxing it out at 600 and still hardly anything. I then tried the same thing I did with the cuboid, and set a custom TCR at 130, 500F and 30 watts. Right on the money. Nice cloud, flavourful, and warm, but no burnt hits with chain vaping. Both devices can pull this off with a TCR between 125 and 130. In fact, still satisfying at 470F. AND tapping the fire button once on a cold coil in this mode on the vtc shows 90F, so pretty damn close to room temp (a lot closer than 168 anyways)
     
  9. mjbrady83

    mjbrady83 New Member

    Blog Posts:
    0
    Joined:
    Mar 17, 2016
    Messages:
    17
    I didn't like that smart mode BS. Didn't make any sense to me.
     
  10. Vapomizer

    Vapomizer Silver Contributor Member For 1 Year

    Blog Posts:
    0
    Joined:
    Dec 16, 2015
    Messages:
    828
    I suspect there is something wrong with your tank, i don't believe this one-tap temp check adds any useful information, at least i am pretty sure that is not the cause of your problem, the issue you are having is really strange because you say it works properly with custom TCR of 130, this is almost the same range as the preset SS316, i think it is set somewhere around 128-132 so very close to your manual setting yet you say it works radically different.

    The only reason temp protect is kicking in too early causing you to get a very cool minor vape is if your resistance is rising rapidly probably indicating a poor connection, do you have other tanks to test with?
     
  11. mjbrady83

    mjbrady83 New Member

    Blog Posts:
    0
    Joined:
    Mar 17, 2016
    Messages:
    17
    Just my subtank, and I can only get nickel coils for that. I gave up on the nickel coils because of gunking issues. So, until I pick up some ss316 wire to use with the RBA, the cubis is my only TC tank. I don't know what Joyetech has the TCR for ss316 preset at, but on steam engine, the wire wizard is indicating a TCR of around 88 for 316 or 316L, in fact 130 is more like the TCR for ss430.
     
  12. mjbrady83

    mjbrady83 New Member

    Blog Posts:
    0
    Joined:
    Mar 17, 2016
    Messages:
    17
    At least I got a work-around for this using the TCR that is making me happy, but I'd rather it worked like it's supposed to.
     
  13. Vapin4Joy

    Vapin4Joy Diamond Contributor Member For 3 Years

    Blog Posts:
    0
    Joined:
    Jul 17, 2015
    Messages:
    12,014
    Yea, so much for all BS being thrown.
     
  14. mjbrady83

    mjbrady83 New Member

    Blog Posts:
    0
    Joined:
    Mar 17, 2016
    Messages:
    17
    I don't know what you mean, I hope you didn't think I was calling your advice BS, just that I tried the smart mode and didn't like it. Too confusing, I'd rather have all the info shown in the other modes.
     
  15. mjbrady83

    mjbrady83 New Member

    Blog Posts:
    0
    Joined:
    Mar 17, 2016
    Messages:
    17
    I don't agree with this statement either, as when I'm actually taking a puff, I can watch this value rise until it hits protection. This is the temperature the mod THINKS the coil is at, so when it's off by 100 degrees on a cool coil, that must translate into at least 100 degrees off on a hot coil. That and it was showing correctly in TCR mode where it actually works.
     
  16. Vapomizer

    Vapomizer Silver Contributor Member For 1 Year

    Blog Posts:
    0
    Joined:
    Dec 16, 2015
    Messages:
    828
    You are right, i just checked my device temp this morning with 10 clicks from an off state and it showed 24c , with the coil resting overnight, one tap on the fire button temp shown as 27c , so your observation looks valid
     
  17. mjbrady83

    mjbrady83 New Member

    Blog Posts:
    0
    Joined:
    Mar 17, 2016
    Messages:
    17
    I got some more info on this situation, although I'm afraid it leads to more questions than answers. I started considering that it must be a conductivity issue with the cubis. I found one of my old nickel coils for my subtank. It was already gunked up quite a bit, so I couldn't get a good read on how the vape quality was from it, but I wanted to double check the resting coil temp it was giving me. Put it in, switched it over to nickel mode, unlocked resistance, hit the fire button without the Atty attached, and then screwed it on. Resting temp was reading at 70F. Then I put a nickel coil in my cubis and did the same. Resting temp read at 76F. So nickel mode seems to be working correctly right now for both tanks. SS316 mode seems to be the culprit here, on both my cuboid and vtc mini. I don't have ss316 coils for the subtank, so I can't investigate that. It's strange, though because I have a friend with a vtc/cubis combo who hasn't been able to duplicate the problem. Now I'm wondering if it's a software glitch, or maybe a bad batch of coils. I checked the authenticity code for the coils and they came back legit. Very frustrating.
     
  18. Vapomizer

    Vapomizer Silver Contributor Member For 1 Year

    Blog Posts:
    0
    Joined:
    Dec 16, 2015
    Messages:
    828
    This is not frustrating, you have it narrowed down to the coils or tank, since both the Cuboid and Evic VTC Mini behave the same with the same tank, best is if you just cut the frustration short and get the tank and coils replaced by the vendor, just tell them that you tested with the Subtank and it worked fine and you tested the Cubis with two different mods and it is faulty on both while your friend's Cubis works fine, that will get your tank and coils replaced and most probably the replacement tank will work as it should.
     
  19. Vapomizer

    Vapomizer Silver Contributor Member For 1 Year

    Blog Posts:
    0
    Joined:
    Dec 16, 2015
    Messages:
    828
    Another thought, think about it this way, if your Cubis has a less than perfect connection at the base either due to a defect on its positive pin or negative base SS316 will be the wire to expose it, since the TCR value of SS316 is too low it is a very sensitive TC material, the slightest conductivity issue will cause TC on it to fail, Ni200 has a much steeper TCR curve and thus has a much higher tolerance for less than perfect conductivity, it is just a much more robust and fault tolerant TC material.

    It seems with the information we have now your issue is clear and a tank replacement should remedy it, it is just not worth breaking you head over this more than that, just get a replacement tank and enjoy a satisfying vape.
     
  20. mjbrady83

    mjbrady83 New Member

    Blog Posts:
    0
    Joined:
    Mar 17, 2016
    Messages:
    17
    You've convinced me. Time for a swap-out.
     
  21. mjbrady83

    mjbrady83 New Member

    Blog Posts:
    0
    Joined:
    Mar 17, 2016
    Messages:
    17
    Another update:

    So I haven't replaced my tank yet, and now it seems that I might not need to. I've been using the .5 SS coils under TCR mode with a TCR of 130. I've noticed over the past 2 days that the temps seem to be drifting hotter and hotter. I had to keep lowering my temp, and eventually the inevitable happened and I burnt my coil. Either that or it just finally got gunked up enough to taste bad. So, I put in a new coil and I decided to put it back in TC ss316 mode to see what would happen. I actually got the new coil menu pop up on my screen! Resistance read at .53. A single tap of the fire button revealed 70F. Good sign. Set the temp at 450F and puffed away. Success! It's hitting right where it should be. Tried it out on my VTC as well and it's also working correctly now. I either have broken this tank in enough to resolve any conductivity issues, or I had a couple of iffy coils, and finally have a good one. I can't be sure which.
     
  22. Vapomizer

    Vapomizer Silver Contributor Member For 1 Year

    Blog Posts:
    0
    Joined:
    Dec 16, 2015
    Messages:
    828
    Glad it worked for you eventually, was a joy discussing this with you, you are a smart dude and i learned something new from you today, one tap on the fire button to check the coil's "guessed" temp while resting in room temp. was a great trick, i started doing that myself often, again welcome to VU and enjoy your vape, we could really use more intelligent and reasonable people like yourself in here and in the vaping community in general.
     
  23. mjbrady83

    mjbrady83 New Member

    Blog Posts:
    0
    Joined:
    Mar 17, 2016
    Messages:
    17
    Thanks. I've been lurking around here for quite a while now (been vaping for nearly 6 years now) and have gleaned quite a lot of useful information from this forum. This is the first time I've actually had the need to post myself to help me figure out an issue. I hope to be more active around here and to help contribute to this wonderful knowledge base.
     
    Vapomizer likes this.
  24. HDMontana

    HDMontana Bronze Contributor Member For 3 Years

    Blog Posts:
    0
    Joined:
    Sep 13, 2014
    Messages:
    251
    I believe the istick 100w tc does the same. I did a quick tap this morning, and it read 70 degrees. About what the room temperature was.

    HD
     
    Vapomizer likes this.
  25. BlownSilvy

    BlownSilvy New Member

    Blog Posts:
    0
    Joined:
    Mar 27, 2016
    Messages:
    14
    Hi, I'm new here but I have a solution to one of the problems. After reading through a few of these Cubis threads I decided to do a little bit of surgery. If you want to use your existing coil in TCR mode unscrew your chimney. On the bottom of the coil there's a round disk. Use a screwdriver and pop it out. This will eliminate the burnt taste from chain hitting but it'll gargle a lil bit. I used a pair of vise grips and a small file to doctor up that disk. Filed it down on one side and then the other side to stop that gargling. Popped it back in to that donut ring and it works perfectly on a 70/30 mix.
     
  26. mjbrady83

    mjbrady83 New Member

    Blog Posts:
    0
    Joined:
    Mar 17, 2016
    Messages:
    17
    This seems like a good idea. I've actually solved my TC issues and have been successful in using the coils in TC ss316 mode, but I've been plagued by yet another problem relating to coil life. I'm only getting about 2 days and 15-20ml of juice out of each coil. I had a feeling it was related to the size of those juice ports, and this may be a good way to fix that. Did you also trim down the insulator?
     
  27. BlownSilvy

    BlownSilvy New Member

    Blog Posts:
    0
    Joined:
    Mar 27, 2016
    Messages:
    14
    image.jpeg image.jpeg
    I trimmed nothing at first and just ran it without that disk and it worked perfectly except for a little bit of gargling.
     
  28. BlownSilvy

    BlownSilvy New Member

    Blog Posts:
    0
    Joined:
    Mar 27, 2016
    Messages:
    14
    I just did this tonight, so I don't know what long term is going to come from this. At first I closed the airflow and it stopped 99% of the gargling. Trimmed the disk up with a file and stuck it back on. Said screw it and then took the disk back off. More air + more liquid = fuller taste and bigger cloud
     
  29. mjbrady83

    mjbrady83 New Member

    Blog Posts:
    0
    Joined:
    Mar 17, 2016
    Messages:
    17
    Woah. That's not what I was expecting. That's actually the positive pin you've removed. I'm quite surprised your coil was even firing without it. I was thinking you meant that you shaved down the sides of that pin to allow more juice through the two small juice slits on the side, thus the question on trimming the insulator as well. I've been thinking I should pick up the RBA for this tank. From the pictures, it seems it has much larger juice holes, plus two more on the sides.
     
  30. BlownSilvy

    BlownSilvy New Member

    Blog Posts:
    0
    Joined:
    Mar 27, 2016
    Messages:
    14
    Pull out your coil and look at it closely. Before you pull out the disk you can push it in a couple of thousandths. It means it is compressed in there. Do not trim the insulator! If you look at it, there's a coil wire coming down on the bottom of it. That makes contact to the inside of the casing and still allows it to fire.
     
  31. BlownSilvy

    BlownSilvy New Member

    Blog Posts:
    0
    Joined:
    Mar 27, 2016
    Messages:
    14
    To test the stress of not having the disk, I've unscrewed and screwed the chimney back in about 100 times to see if it would change anything. Still running strong on TCR mode
     
  32. BlownSilvy

    BlownSilvy New Member

    Blog Posts:
    0
    Joined:
    Mar 27, 2016
    Messages:
    14
    Oh and I did shave the pin down and decided to just leave it out. Shaving it helped a pretty good bit
     
  33. BlownSilvy

    BlownSilvy New Member

    Blog Posts:
    0
    Joined:
    Mar 27, 2016
    Messages:
    14
  34. mjbrady83

    mjbrady83 New Member

    Blog Posts:
    0
    Joined:
    Mar 17, 2016
    Messages:
    17
    Well, I was using TCR as a work-around because I was having problems getting an accurate temp reading in ss316 mode. That issue has been resolved now. My new issue is coils getting burnt up. I'm sure they aren't actually burning, but gunking up quickly, which happens to me with nickel coils on my subtank. This is why I'd actually prefer to use in power mode over anything.
     
  35. BlownSilvy

    BlownSilvy New Member

    Blog Posts:
    0
    Joined:
    Mar 27, 2016
    Messages:
    14
    Yeah temp SS316 doesn't work for me at all. Climbs to temp in under 1 second. I just got tired of the burnt taste after chain hitting it. It still gets a slight burnt taste to it with the disk in after about 3 or 4 big back to back hits. Disk out, it's non-existent.
     
  36. BlownSilvy

    BlownSilvy New Member

    Blog Posts:
    0
    Joined:
    Mar 27, 2016
    Messages:
    14
    Now if you don't feel comfortable with the pin out, I'll modify another pin tomorrow. It's nothing to drill a 1/32 hole through the the center of it. Would probably take me about 10min to hollow out the pin
     
  37. mjbrady83

    mjbrady83 New Member

    Blog Posts:
    0
    Joined:
    Mar 17, 2016
    Messages:
    17
    Have you tried running in power mode with that? I just pulled the pin and insulator out of one of my spent coils to see if those juice ports extend under the insulator. They do not. I'm not sure I'd feel comfortable running the coil sans positive pin. Also, I don't see cotton through that pin hole, so if juice is actually getting through that I would think it would flood out. I dunno about this. Seems confusing as to why your modification is working.
     
  38. BlownSilvy

    BlownSilvy New Member

    Blog Posts:
    0
    Joined:
    Mar 27, 2016
    Messages:
    14
    It's working perfectly in Power Mode. As it sits now, only modification is the pin pulled out. Looks just like the first pic I posted. Before the pin was pulled out I ran 22.5W. As it sits I'm runnin 32.7W
     
  39. saytar

    saytar Bronze Contributor Member For 1 Year

    Blog Posts:
    0
    Joined:
    Mar 22, 2016
    Messages:
    203
    I have the Cuboid and was having an issue with it on the SS TC mode as I've seen above. I am using it with a Crown tank with the SS .25 coil and at first it worked perfectly in SS mode, then it began shooting quickly into temp protection mode also (an occasional atomizer short reading too)..now this Crown tank is my normal tank ad has worked for months perfectly with my Sigelei 70 TC and NI coils.
    The problem with the Cuboid is very very simple, the center pin on the Crown tank is non adjustable and sets at a very close almost parallel level as the thread body...NOW the Cuboid has a square, rounded cornered spring loaded pin beveled to the smaller actual contact area and the beveled shoulder is not sufficient to prevent a tank (considering the thread tolerances ) from being screwed on a little of and the looseness of the spring loaded added to this can result in unwanted movement and intermittent atomizer shorts and in my case TC issue as in lack of control. What I did was to remove the tank push out the Crown center pin slightly put it all back together and CAREFULLY screw the tank on with the spring loaded center pin push in the Crown connector....let them find their own center, then I slightly snugged the tank a little bit more than you normally would. Problem went away, been working for several days perfectly, but I have noticed that bumping the tank and mod a little too hard can result in problem reappearing. Just rinse and repeat to get it back right.....

    With a Tank that has an adjustable center pin with a decent extension beyond the threads won't have this issue and can be adjusted. But the temp control tanks such as the Crown don't always have these type pins and keep the tolerances tight to keep resistance even, but on the Cuboid (don't know on the EVic's don't have one) this is an issue....had Joyetech NOT beveled the pin but had relief cut it square and a .002 deeper instead of at an angle (and very slightly reduced the top contact area) I don't believe this problem would exist. I am going to try some Kepler heat sinks with adjustable pins and see if I can "permanently" eliminate this issue, at least on the Tanks with too close tolerances and non adjustable pins. I would prefer something similar that is not as tall as these, but you use what you can find...a very slightly longer center pin for the Crown tanks would work.....

    I'd file the center pin, but not much room to do so without messing up the threads..so......

    Hope this helps, it's what I've found so far, other than that my Cuboid's are running fine and TC working well.......by the way the first pulse after resting shows 70 deg, this seems to be the normal....
     
  40. imabadteammate

    imabadteammate New Member

    Blog Posts:
    0
    Joined:
    Oct 29, 2016
    Messages:
    1
    I have the Joytech Egrip II. I vape with SS316 .25Ω Notch Coils.

    I had the issue with the mod hitting temperature protection way too soon like described above. My issue was that I didn't unlock the resistance when swapping coils. Did that and it fixed my issue. Now I know that the OP said he did this and it didn't work but I'm mainly commenting here because I tried to find a solution for my own silly mistake online and found it nowhere when I searched Google for "hitting temp control too soon". This thread came up though and that's why I'm responding here so that potentially anybody else who made my mistake will remember about unlocking resistance. >_<
     
  41. s7m8a1978

    s7m8a1978 New Member

    Blog Posts:
    0
    Joined:
    Oct 31, 2016
    Messages:
    21
    I've had the Cuboid for 3 days now. I started having a problem with TC SS316 yesterday. I did a firmware update last night to 3.14 and swapped atomizer. I immediately had anemic vapor. Admittedly I never paid attention to resting temp reading but looked at it today. The resting "temperature" was reading over 80F higher than actual ambient. At this point I'm chalking it up to a coil/tank issue. Unfortunately I don't have another mod to use for verification. Vapes fine in power. 510 is clean. Using iSub V with .5 SS coil. Changed TCR and that made it operate "properly" but I'm new to temp control. Day 1 I noticed it would hit protection quickly at 30 watts and 400F. After TCR adjustment today it runs like a champ. I'll keep running it in power though until I get a different brand tank. I have learned that TC with stainless is finicky. May give Ti a shot. Just not sure what tank I should move to next.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     
  42. s7m8a1978

    s7m8a1978 New Member

    Blog Posts:
    0
    Joined:
    Oct 31, 2016
    Messages:
    21
    So I've reverted to stock firmware and swapped out coil. Resting temperature is reading 70F now and TC SS316 is working properly on 410F @ 35w. I'm guessing the TC issue was due to the coil. I will say that I don't hit protection at all while vaping at the settings above. I can see it adjusting during a draw. I still want to try another tank though. Maybe a RTA. I know it's cheaper to build your own and I like tinkering anyway. Just have to research on it.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     
  43. saytar

    saytar Bronze Contributor Member For 1 Year

    Blog Posts:
    0
    Joined:
    Mar 22, 2016
    Messages:
    203
    The Cuboid is very very finicky due to 510 pin contacts and pressure and ANY contact issues (including internal to your tank, decks, coil grub screws) can cause issues......dropping out of TC, weird resting readings when fired and temp overloads. Also when using Claptons and other specialty coils the stock settings are usually NOT correct, they assume a single wire coils. On SS Claptons I usually run the TCR at 135-155 (120 is stock settings) and all's good. I run my Griffin 25, SMOK G2 (all have SS Claptons installed) all at 420-450 deg at 45 watts, massive clouds good flavor. BE CAREFUL WITH TANKS THAT HAVE EXCESSIVELY LONG 510 PINS!!

    I am on the lasted version software and it is much more accurate than the old original version, plus you can set pre-heating for TC (I set it at 30 watts 1 sec), I have also noticed fewer instance's of dropping out of TC. Now on my Boreas i have very few issues of any kind.....the enclosed coils in regular RTA tanks are prone to heat build up especially if hitting them hard whereas the direct air path to the coils keeps the coil temperatures (same SS Clapton coils as others) from ramping so high and staying high, coil heat dissipates quickly......so the vape is cooler and more consistant...

    On the Griffin's and SMOK tanks I have to clean coils and replace wicking every 4-5 days to keep everything working kosher and taste clean..........on the Boreas on the other hand 1-2 weeks is normal. The RTA's cause coil carbon build up quickly, whereas the Boreas air straight to the coils take longer to build up gunk and there is additional wicking due to more cotton so they seem to feed better longer.......Now if your wicking is too tight or way to loose this will reduce vapor and cause issues with TC and other problems....so check all this....
     
  44. Deucesjack

    Deucesjack VU Donator Platinum Contributor Member For 2 Years ECF Refugee

    Blog Posts:
    0
    Joined:
    Sep 8, 2015
    Messages:
    7,996

Share This Page

Close This Message