M&PWM Modding's Custom Built PWM, OKR-T30, Unregulated & DNA/SX Mods (And More!)

[Mikhail Naumov]

Hello, and welcome to the M&PWM Modding official VU sale thread! I specialize in PWM mods, but I will make just about anything! Thanks for stopping by.
ADMIN SAYS: There seems to be a dispute going on of a buyer in here not receiving his paid product.
So Buyers Beware until this issue is resolved

FB: https://www.facebook.com/MPWMBoxMods/​

SMART PWM V3 Mods:

This board was wack ass crazy, you can do everything from wire in analogue volt meters, to CHOOSE between a potentiometer wheel dial OR actuator buttons like the NLPWM. TINY as hell too. This board is 2S-4S input and has WAY more features than the iPWM did, try one today.


NLPWM Mods:

Similar to the iPWM above, this board takes 2S-6S batteries for input and has very similar 'smart' features like locking and etc. The main difference between this board and the iPWM is the size (the NLPWM is much, much larger) and the fact that the NLPWM uses a digital potentiometer. This means you adjust power via +/- buttons instead of with a pot dial.

PWM Mods:

Using either the Mod PCB Micro PWM V2.1 or the Gunstar Mods PWM V2.1 boards, these mods are still quality vaping experiences. They are not 'silent' like the other boards, making an audible 'buzz' when firing. However, they are very reliable, accurate boards that can give you the PWM experience without you having to spend a ton of money!

DNA/SX Mods:
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Any of the DNA/SX boards in any workable configuration I will use and build with! Be it LiPo, 18650 or 20700, I offer a wide range of options with these mods as do I with all my other ones! DNA60, 75C, 250 or SX 550J.. I'll use it all!

OKR/OKR Mods:

The OKR T-10, OKL-T20 or the OKR-T30. These mods all contain a potentiometer which can adjust the output voltage from 3V-6V and have a volt meter for power reference that can also be switched to display the input voltage via an SPDT switch inside the mod. I will use whatever board suits you best and if you want a Raptor/Delta mod I will make one of those as well!

Unregulated Mods:

Be it a simple series or parallel mod or a mod that uses a DPDT switch to literally SWITCH from parallel mode to series mode or anything between.. I'll make it. Parallel series, parallel, series, parallel to series.. any configuration of cells, battery type.. I'll make it!

WHAT DO I USE IN MY MODS:

You may be wondering what kinds of parts and materials go into my mods besides the obvious. Firstly, I almost always use CNC AlpineTech enclosures. These have no lean, are VERY durable, have anodized paint jobs, hidden magnets, nail nicks on the lid and they are just wonderful. The ONLY time I will use Hammond boxes is for specialty mods like a big ass 6S LiPo 1590J mod. What kind of enclosure varies on what kind of mod you want, the battery type/configuration, atomizer clearance and etc. Colors vary, so just ask and I'll let you know what sizes/colors I can currently offer!

I usually use Mitec switches, 12mm or 16mm raised ones. For 510's I use Varitube V2 smooth tops. All of my potentiometers and volt meters (.28 inch SMAKN LED meters) come with either a CNC/3D Printed bezel around them that is color matched to the enclosure.

I do offer squonk mods, I will drill out holes and then hand file / dremel away from there to make a clean squonk slot! Just ask for the option when ordering.

I also offer laser engraving! On the ATI anodized enclosures I can offer full shading, high detail engravings!

ALL of my LiPo mods include a battery for the paid price. You CAN choose the parts that go into your mod if the default parts I like to use are not to your liking as well!

SOME PICTURES OF MY WORK:

MORE PHOTOS OF MY WORK: https://www.facebook.com/pg/MPWMBoxMods/photos/?tab=album&album_id=247327349078446


CONTACT INFO:

Email: [email protected]

VU: Just send me a PM.

Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/MPWMBoxMods/


Simply contact me via one of the above messages for ANY questions or orders. We can figure out EXACTLY what you want and then figure out pricing, since these mods are custom it's not really accurate for me to list pricing here as it varies from mod to mod. Though I will say my MOST expensive mods are around $265 and my cheapest around $65 and I have most sitting in the mid $100 range. So they're not SUPER expensive or anything. All of them, ALL of them, include a lifetime warranty as well! Anything you do NOT see listed here but might want, I can probably make it, so contact me anyway!

Thank you!



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[Mikhail Naumov]

Updated list with boxes you can order immediately with pricing. Will include a list of DNA mod options tomorrow, will continue to add pre-spec mods to the list as time passes. Any custom orders, just contact me directly.

 

[Mikhail Naumov]

The thread has been updated and now looks like an actual sale thread, but is still under construction. I am taking orders as soon as people want to put them in.

 

[inspects]

If you made iPWM Squonkers I bet they would sell like hotcakes.

 

[Mikhail Naumov]

I technically do, as I'll make literally anything a customer requests.

I could make a 2S or 3S 1590A/1550P iPWM and dremel out a slot on the front of the lid for a squonk bottle.

 

[inspects]

I technically do, as I'll make literally anything a customer requests.

I could make a 3S 1590A iPWM and dremel out a slot on the front of the lid for a squonk bottle.

I'll have to dig around and see if I have any 22-24mm Varitube squonk 510's left.

 

[Mikhail Naumov]

I usually use Fat Daddy V4's for squonker 510's as he does a decent job on them, though it's been a while since I've made a squonk mod. It's not for me personally as I use a lot of big ass tanks.

 

[inspects]

I usually use Fat Daddy V4's for squonker 510's as he does a decent job on them, though it's been a while since I've made a squonk mod. It's not for me personally as I use a lot of big ass tanks.

Without searching, do you remember if the tube on the 510 was smooth or threaded at the tubing connection?

 

[Mikhail Naumov]

Without searching, do you remember if the tube on the 510 was smooth or threaded at the tubing connection?

You mean did the 510 have threads? If so, yeah. All the parts thread in and the 510 itself can have the hole for it tapped out and it can thread into the mod as well.

If you mean something else, please specify. I remember these 510's were a bit different, had some anti spin shit on it.

 

[inspects]

You mean did the 510 have threads? If so, yeah. All the parts thread in and the 510 itself can have the hole for it tapped out and it can thread into the mod as well.

If you mean something else, please specify. I remember these 510's were a bit different, had some anti spin shit on it.

I meant the end of the 510 metal tube, where the squonk tubing connects, I only like the smooth tubes, non-threaded.

I see your contact info...I'll take this conversation to an email later today or tomorrow, so I'm not screwing up your thread about making a squonker.

 

[Mikhail Naumov]

It wasn't threaded to my memory and no pictures seem to indicate it is. There's also the V5 bottom feeder 510's, which I've never used.

 

[MannyScoot]

I meant the end of the 510 metal tube, where the squonk tubing connects, I only like the smooth tubes, non-threaded.

I see your contact info...I'll take this conversation to an email later today or tomorrow, so I'm not screwing up your thread about making a squonker.

Build Inspects a nice squonker pwm he's ready to venture into ipwm madness......Big Al's......

I keep telling people until you vape a well programmed chip pwm you haven't tasted a good vape..... Oh man..... The clouds and flavor of those thick clouds........

I enjoy a DNA 200 or DNA 250 for everydayness vape..... But to sit at home and vape comfortable a good flavorful vape ..... man..... Pwm is the way.....some people have tried the hexohm..... And love it..... But a lipo big Al's takes it to a new level......

I try not to use them as every day because I don't want to scratch the mod. Ha.......

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[Mikhail Naumov]

Look guys, pictures.

 

[Mikhail Naumov]

Added more pictures. Even more will be up soon as these forum ads have brought in a handful of customers so far and their mods will be used for reference pictures.

 

[Mikhail Naumov]

Added SX550 mods.

 

[Mikhail Naumov]

More reference mod pictures.

So far I have:

1590N1 Reference x2
1590B Reference coming VERY soon x 2
1590G Reference X 1
1550P Enclosure Reference x 1 (Full mod coming soon, I'm making one for myself.)
1590A Reference coming soon x 1
3D Printed Reference x 1

 

[Mikhail Naumov]

1590B Reference added.

 

[Mikhail Naumov]

Got some slots freed up if anyone wants to place any orders.

 

[Mikhail Naumov]

Added new mods, made things a bit more user friendly. This thread is basically finished. Keep in mind any mod you see here is also offered in both a non-iPWM (Big Al's Silent PWM, PWM with no fancy features for less cash paid.) and unregulated (bit cheaper) variant.

 

[Mikhail Naumov]

Squonk versions of (almost) every box (namely not the smaller ones like A's) I have listed on here are available for $20 extra. As long as I can fit a bottle, I'll do it.

 

[Mikhail Naumov]

More pictures. Once I get the 1590A+ and 1550P+ mods I'm working on finished, I'll upload pictures of those and probably stop, as then I'll have a reference for every single box size. Hot damn purple looks good on a mod..

 

[Mikhail Naumov]

International shipping is no longer something I offer. Due to my first customer from here and me having issues with USPS bouncing the package back and forth for literally no fault on either of us, then having to go fix it, ON TOP OF how much it costs my customers to do it, I'm just not willing to do it anymore. I know I could pull the trusty old 'once it's in the mail it's out of my hands.' card so many sellers do, but I'm not like that and I refuse to do that. If the mail lost one of my packages, I would feel 100% responsible and would refund the customer even if it sent me into overdraft.

Priority mail and FC mail for domestic packages in the US, that's still on. I've never had an issue on that front, but it seems every time I mail something to another country or even get mail from another country, I have issues. Also for warranty sake, it's not realistic to expect a customer to pay nearly $100 for postage AND return postage to get the mod back to me in the event of a warranty call in. So I'm just not going to do it anymore, I apologize if you wanted to order something from me outside of the US, but this is for YOUR protection as well as mine.

To the one customer who did order from me internationally, if you see this, do not panic. Your warranty is still 100% valid. I just won't do it for anyone else from this point forward as it's too risky in my eyes and requires a lot of money to be spent and a lot of time to be wasted.

Edit:

International shipping restored!

 

[scutt14075]

What's your bottom dollar on a sx550 box?

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[Mikhail Naumov]

My bottom dollar is what I listed. I don't go lower. I've actually just updated the thread, I'm slowly in the process of simplifying it and adding more references as I make more mods. My prices have increased slightly but I can say for sure they won't ever go higher. For non-lipo mods that don't include a battery the cost defaults to $15 less. The reason my prices went up is because I have had several people urge me to do so and I'm getting better at this so I value my time more.

Not to sound like I've grown an ego, I'm just a small time modder. I know that. I just have to make my end, as this is literally my job now.

 

[Mikhail Naumov]

Updated.

 

[scutt14075]

My bottom dollar is what I listed. I don't go lower. I've actually just updated the thread, I'm slowly in the process of simplifying it and adding more references as I make more mods. My prices have increased slightly but I can say for sure they won't ever go higher. For non-lipo mods that don't include a battery the cost defaults to $15 less. The reason my prices went up is because I have had several people urge me to do so and I'm getting better at this so I value my time more.

Not to sound like I've grown an ego, I'm just a small time modder. I know that. I just have to make my end, as this is literally my job now.

Totally understandable bud, you make some quality mods at unbelievable pricing!! I wish you the absolute best! I've been tossing the idea of building my own mods ever since I started vaping(going on 8 years) I FINALLY pulled the trigger yesterday and bought everything to build a pwm box,thanks to your post. You answered every question I had without me having to ask one lol. You are extremely informal,and seem to be a kick ass, down to earth, no bullshit type a guy which is fantastic! Thank you for that post it's thee most informative thread on the net on pwm's as well as pretty much any mod out there! I would link it but no clue on how to do that lol.

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[MannyScoot]

Well the planning started, the box seems to be large to hold in hand and fire from the front or thumb so I decided to fire from the top....

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[Mikhail Naumov]

Well the planning started, the box seems to be large to hold in hand and fire from the front or thumb so I decided to fire from the top....

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That's a bit, odd. I would've gotten a 1590G+ CNC enclosure, if for no other reason than the extra space and no lean. They come with .28 volt meter cut outs perfectly centered, so you can mark and drill your holes in accordance to the pre-cut slot. I've fit iPWM's in a 1590G with all the parts mounted off to one side, I'm not sure how I feel about a top switch, nothing really seems to be centered either but that's just personal preference.

 

[MannyScoot]

That's a bit, odd. I would've gotten a 1590G+ CNC enclosure, if for no other reason than the extra space and no lean. They come with .28 volt meter cut outs perfectly centered, so you can mark and drill your holes in accordance to the pre-cut slot. I've fit iPWM's in a 1590G with all the parts mounted off to one side, I'm not sure how I feel about a top switch, nothing really seems to be centered either but that's just personal preference.

You can feel the box in hand a bit more comfortable when firing with thumb and the 510 to the front.... I'm noticing that the crease of the box is making the middle of my palm hurt when using this box....

I had one before I fired on top and I liked it, so I decided to give it a try and put the 510 in the front part to hold better in my mouth...... When firing with my thumb....

Heard your Building a box for my best friend.... I think he Will love it......

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[Mikhail Naumov]

I hold Hammond style boxes like that sometimes as well.

The reason I wouldn't put a switch up there is mostly because I try to keep EVERY component/part/wiring part of the mod ALL to the left. This way, I can have maximum battery room to the right. Sometimes I'll do a top mount of the board like in a 1590G if it's a bigger battery I'm using, but I always try to keep everything to the left.

I would've just told him to use an ATI box, though. Unlike Hammonds they have no lean, hidden magnets, a nail nick on the lid and the volt meter slot would've come pre-cut and 100% clean and perfect on the bottom. Then he could've put your pot up top and have the board sit in the middle. I think that would've made things a BIT cleaner. But overall it's by no means a bad job, the only thing I would've personally done different had you asked for a top button is put the meter on the bottom, the pot on top and the board in the middle of them. I also would've used an ATI box but, not really a huge deal deal. The ONE thing I would've done different that I consider a big deal is center the parts, as not only do none of those parts look center, they're not even center with each other. That's a big deal to me, but I know to some people they don't care at all. As long as you like the mod and it's safe.

And yeah, I'll probably have his mod finished Tuesday and shipped Wednesday morning, so you'll be able to see it yourself since I know you two live around the same area.

Dale, you straight up look like Dr. House. Just saying. Not a bad thing actually, one of my favorite shows.

 

[MannyScoot]

My Hammond has no lean.... It's a no lean Hammond

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[MannyScoot]

I hold Hammond style boxes like that sometimes as well.

The reason I wouldn't put a switch up there is mostly because I try to keep EVERY component/part/wiring part of the mod ALL to the left. This way, I can have maximum battery room to the right. Sometimes I'll do a top mount of the board like in a 1590G if it's a bigger battery I'm using, but I always try to keep everything to the left.

I would've just told him to use an ATI box, though. Unlike Hammonds they have no lean, hidden magnets, a nail nick on the lid and the volt meter slot would've come pre-cut and 100% clean and perfect on the bottom. Then he could've put your pot up top and have the board sit in the middle. I think that would've made things a BIT cleaner. But overall it's by no means a bad job, the only thing I would've personally done different had you asked for a top button is put the meter on the bottom, the pot on top and the board in the middle of them. I also would've used an ATI box but, not really a huge deal deal. The ONE thing I would've done different that I consider a big deal is center the parts, as not only do none of those parts look center, they're not even center with each other. That's a big deal to me, but I know to some people they don't care at all. As long as you like the mod and it's safe.

And yeah, I'll probably have his mod finished Tuesday and shipped Wednesday morning, so you'll be able to see it yourself since I know you two live around the same area.

Dale, you straight up look like Dr. House. Just saying. Not a bad thing actually, one of my favorite shows.

I think the board had the pot soldered on from Big Al's so that's why the meter and pot are close together....... But with the Maxamps 2250 3s battery he charged me a buck thirty.... So I'm not complaining.......

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[Mikhail Naumov]

No, as the pot soldered on version looks like this mounted:

Also that bezel is from Big Al's too, and the pot has to go in front the front on those, meaning it would've been impossible to have the board side mounted like that. He's wired the pot to the board separately, as the version with the pot is literally made to be side mounted via gluing it into a bezel or a cleanly drilled whole on the side of the mod.

Also if it has no lean, it was sanded. All Hammonds have leans, except the ABS plastic ones. They also have leans on the sides, which that one does have. I think it leans. The main thing is the CNC ATI boxes have anodized paint jobs, hidden magnets and are made of aircraft grade aluminum. They're just overall nicer IMO. But Hammonds are more available and customizable.

 

[MannyScoot]

No, as the pot soldered on version looks like this mounted:

Also that bezel is from Big Al's too, and the pot has to go in front the front on those, meaning it would've been impossible to have the board side mounted like that. He's wired the pot to the board separately, as the version with the pot is literally made to be side mounted via gluing it into a bezel or a cleanly drilled whole on the side of the mod.

Also if it has no lean, it was sanded. All Hammonds have leans, except the ABS plastic ones. They also have leans on the sides, which that one does have. I think it leans. The main thing is the CNC ATI boxes have anodized paint jobs, hidden magnets and are made of aircraft grade aluminum. They're just overall nicer IMO. But Hammonds are more available and customizable.

I told him to put in aluminum box and that I rather have buttons up and down rather than a pot..... Ha ha..... told him to also put the buttons at a the front and I want them small like these.....and I want it wrapped with military soldier firing a 50 Cal machine gun and to me sure the soldier has a skull instead of a face..... Ha ha.....

Let's what he rigs now.......

I'm going to have to slip him a little bonus for that......

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[Mikhail Naumov]

Also Manny, if you know how to solder at all, you can use 2S, other 3S and 4S batteries in there. A B will fit VERY small 4S batteries, medium sized 3S batteries and fairly large 2S batteries. You'd have to shorten their cables.. a LOT, but you could use other lipos in there. So if you can solder and shorten battery cables, I'd switch to a smaller 2S since a 2S lipo PWM can do about 400W maximum. You could fit a 3,275mah 2S 50C/100C lipo I know of in there.

Due to 4S thickness, the biggest 4S I know of that fits in a B is a 1,000mah 45C/90C 4S.

 

[MannyScoot]

Also Manny, if you know how to solder at all, you can use 2S, other 3S and 4S batteries in there. A B will fit VERY small 4S batteries, medium sized 3D batteries and fairly large 2S batteries. You'd have to shorten their cables.. a LOT, but you could use other lipos in there. So if you can solder and shorten battery cables, I'd switch to a smaller 2S since a 2S lipo PWM can do about 400W maximum. You could fit a 3,275mah 2S 50C/100C lipo I know of in there.

I'm happy with the Maxamps 2250 mAh 3s Lipo............. I don't think I'll use the 11.1 volts.....

I'll probably keep the top firing one and have him build me a Npwm..... That way I have both......

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[Mikhail Naumov]

The NLPWM and the Big Al's iPWM use an almost identical PWM circuit. It's RMS PWM, meaning you're cycling the output voltage instead of a typical PWM duty cycle. They both switch (fire) on a frequency out of range of human hearing. They both have the exact same features, only the iPWM has MORE features.

The NLPWM is a 'modding for dummies' board that is made to be as painlessly easy to wire as possible. When I use NLPWM's, I end up tearing off the volt meter (I usually use N1's and therefore mount the meter horizontal, not vertical) and wiring it back on, then I tear off ALL the buttons. I use tactile 4mm buttons for the +/- and either a 12mm/16mm Mitec for the firing button. Due to this, it completely strips away the 'easy three wire install' premise of the board, then add on the fact I have to pay $40 for an NLPWM, $5 for a board mount and then another $5 for actuator buttons (if I were to use the onboards), it's a $50 investment. I just refuse to pay $50 for something that I can get a better version of for less than $20.

The NLPWM is cool, but it's made to appeal to modders who want to build a PWM without the difficulty. I know Big Al's have 8-10 wire-in's opposed to 3, but the iPWM is MUCH smaller, MUCH cheaper and MUCH better. So unless a customer just HAS to have one, I avoid the NLPWM board. I know also if you factor in a Big Al's iPWM with a pot ($17), a volt meter ($3) and a firing switch ($3-$8) it's STILL cheaper than the NLPWM, so again.. I avoid them.

If you have an iPWM, it's literally pointless to buy an NLPWM. If you have an NLPWM, it's literally pointless to buy an iPWM. The vape experience they give, the accuracy of the PWM cycle and the features they offer are pretty much the exact same.

THE ONLY -subjective- advantage the NLPWM has over the Big Al's iPWM is the fact you can adjust the voltage through a BIT of a wider range overall, via .1V adjustments. I personally PREFER the potentiometer over +/- buttons and the potentiometer cycle range is 85% of the NLPWM button range, so you're not missing out on much and I find it much faster and easier to cycle my power with a dial wheel then constantly click, click, clicking away at buttons.


TL;DR: The NLPWM is made to be purchased by a newbie/lazy modder alongside something like an ATI CNC box (Not an N1, a G/B) with a vertical VM slot already cut, then just throw in the board mount with some glue, easy three wire install, drill some holes over the buttons for actuators and one for the 510.. done. Then just wire in an XT60 and toss in a lipo, BOOM, functioning RMS PWM mod. It's quick, it's easy. But you pay for that luxury, and I personally do not need that luxury as I'm an electrical engineer who has been making mods for almost as long as he has vaped, nearly five years.

I can take a new enclosure, drill the holes, mount the pars, wire up the board, glue it in/mount it, then wire it up the parts in about 90 minutes on average. With an NLPWM this process is cut down to only about 60 minutes. Shaving 30 minutes off my work time and having less features just isn't worth paying $20 extra for me.

Wiring up an NLPWM is like wiring up an unregulated mosfet box, gate (switch), drain (510 negative) and source (battery negative), though I'm fairly sure the NLPWM is PFET based and not NFET based, so the source connection would be battery positive.

EDIT: It appears the NLPWM now has added wiring pads for external off-board buttons on all three, so that does help it out a bit in my eyes.

 

[MannyScoot]

My best buddy was telling me your Building him the baddest mod... Ha ha..... He's like me I have so many DNA 200 and DNA 250 mods.....

We are simply tired of buying shit that we simply throw away after a couple of months .....

He's happy he found you and he is patiently waiting for his mod....

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[Mikhail Naumov]

1590N1 Black CNC ATI enclosure with N52 magnets in the door, .28 volt meter horizontal slot pre-cut. .28 Volt meter with CNC black bezel, 1K Ohm pot with CNC black bezel, black raised Mitec switch, 30mm black smooth top Varitube V2 510, Big Al's iPWM board. His main lipo is gonna be a 2,200mah 4S 100A/200A lipo and a backup 3S 80A/160A 2,200mah lipo will also be included. The mod will seat up to 42mm atomizers with no side hangover and will have an operating power range of about 5W-4,000W in 4S mode and 5W-2,000W in 3S mode. Given he stays under 100W, both of these lipos will probably get him through an entire week without charging.

 

[MannyScoot]

Is this better Mikail .... Npwm with buttons......

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[Mikhail Naumov]

That's REALLY clean and overall I like it.

 

[MannyScoot]

Is this the way the Ipwm should work ????

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[Mikhail Naumov]

Manny, he wired your potentiometer wrong. The two circled holes on the iPWM, the left goes to the left wiper closest to the 0, the right goes to the center wiper. THE RIGHT 100 WIPER IS NOT TO BE USED. This is why your mod hits at full power at 50%. It should hit at around 5.5V at 50%. He did not use the center wiper, he connected the center wiper connection to the right '100' wiper on the potentiometer mistakenly.

TELL HIM. Your mod will be locked at full power otherwise.

I'm not sure why Big Al chose to circle those two holes, as it makes it APPEAR like he wants you to wire the left and right wipers to them. THIS IS NOT THE CASE. The left hole is for the left '0' wiper and the right is for the center 'bottom' wiper. The right '100' wiper is only used on things like OKL/OKR mods. In vaping, we NEVER use all 3, and we ALWAYS use the center wiper. We HAVE to.

 

[derrickfosgate]

Is this the way the Ipwm should work ????

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Your voltage should not be at full power when the pot is turned down mine when at 15% reads 2.22 not 10 something wrong there or im wrong oops

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[Mikhail Naumov]

Your voltage should not be at full power when the pot is turned down mine when at 15% reads 2.22 not 10 something wrong there or im wrong oops

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This is 100% right. The guy wired the pot wrong, which is really easy to do as Big Al circled the left and right holes, making it LOOK like he wants you to use the left and right wipers. This is not the case, he simply circled those two holes to say if you are NOT mounting the pot directly onto the board, wire the correct wipers (left and center) to these two holes. I knew better, but most modders without extensive electrical knowledge wouldn't.

 

[derrickfosgate]

This is 100% right. The guy wired the pot wrong, which is really easy to do as Big Al circled the left and right holes, making it LOOK like he wants you to use the left and right wipers. This is not the case, he simply circled those two holes to say if you are NOT mounting the pot directly onto the board, wire the correct wipers (left and center) to these two holes. I knew better, but most modders without extensive electrical knowledge wouldn't.

Im learning i think i have not been able to turn mine past 20 yet and it kicks my ass

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[Mikhail Naumov]

I use a 4S Silent PWM (I don't use the iPWM features much so I prefer the Big Al's 60A 2S-6S Silent PWM board, it's just an iPWM without the features) and I rock it at around 40-65% depending on what I'm using on average. The highest I've had it is like 80%. I never hit 85-100% and I rarely go below 30%. I typically vape around 8-12V.

 

[derrickfosgate]

What resistance range are u using to run 40% 8/12 volts im only hitting 2.20 but im also havent put a rda on it yet just my griffin and modfather

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[Mikhail Naumov]

As you can see on this board (Silent PWM), it has the correct holes circled. On the iPWM, he switched it to the left and right holes. The wiring is STILL the same on the iPWM, but you're meant to wire these two wipers to it. Manny, show him THIS picture and tell him to wire these two wipers on the pot to the two circled holes on the iPWM. Wire the left wiper (closest to 0) to the left circled hole and wire the center wiper (bottom) to the right circled hole. Simply ignore the bottom center not circled hole and cut the right (closest to 100) wiper off of the pot.

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What resistance range are u using to run 40% 8/12 volts im only hitting 2.20 but im also havent put a rda on it yet just my griffin and modfather

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I run .35-.5 ohm builds on my box, usually. 8-12 wrap 4-6mm fused claptons and staples. MASSIVE coils with a ton of airflow running to them.

 

[MannyScoot]

As you can see on this board (Silent PWM), it has the correct holes circled. On the iPWM, he switched it to the left and right holes. The wiring is STILL the same on the iPWM, but you're meant to wire these two wipers to it. Manny, show him THIS picture and tell him to wire these two wipers on the pot to the two circled holes on the iPWM. Wire the left wiper (closest to 0) to the left circled hole and wire the center wiper (bottom) to the right circled hole. Simply ignore the bottom center not circled hole and cut the right (closest to 100) wiper off of the pot.

​

I run .35-.5 ohm builds on my box, usually. 8-12 wrap 4-6mm fused claptons and staples. MASSIVE coils with a ton of airflow running to them.

Mikhail..... I sent him the picture and your message...... Thanks brother..... This guy builds switch mods and parallel and series..... He doesn't do pwm..... He's doing this for me because he owed me some favors........

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