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Dead rabbit n bf mod coil build safety check

hitti2

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Member For 4 Years
Also for the moment when my bf mod arrives, I am gonna be using hg2 by lg till 20700's are ordered n received.

Safety question.
At 20A, I want to draw 15A from a 20A battery for head room.

From steam engine ohms law, can U double check me?

ss316l, 24g, dual coil, .24 ohms should be safe for this bf mod and battery?

Or

Should I setup a single coil in the dead rabbit on the bf mod with a hg2 for faster ramp up time? But then calculations on steam for me "in my head" get wonky.
 

zephyr

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Also for the moment when my bf mod arrives, I am gonna be using hg2 by lg till 20700's are ordered n received.

Safety question.
At 20A, I want to draw 15A from a 20A battery for head room.

From steam engine ohms law, can U double check me?

ss316l, 24g, dual coil, .24 ohms should be safe for this bf mod and battery?

Or

Should I setup a single coil in the dead rabbit on the bf mod with a hg2 for faster ramp up time? But then calculations on steam for me "in my head" get wonky.

0.24 ohms will be slightly over 15 amps (16-18 amps depending on how efficient your mod will be, on a full battery)

It is also a lot of metal, 24 guage and at least 10 wraps per coil. It may have some ramp up time.

It is a safe build.

Single coil would be better for battery life and ramp up, or 26 awg SS wire dual coils with fewer wraps.
 

Zohmbiebuilds

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Member For 3 Years
I have 26g Kanthal a-1. Maybe I should use that for time being till I get as 26g?
I wouldn't use kanthal on mechs. I personally don't use kanthal unless the build would be entirely too low with it.

I prefer nichrome60 nichrome80 and ss316l. I hardly use SS because imo it's too fragile. You can't flash and dunk, the second the metal gets too hot it will oxidize and give terrible chemical smell and taste.

Nichrome80 is the most used wire by

Sent from my Z981 using Tapatalk
 

zephyr

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Last edited:

hitti2

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http://www.steam-engine.org/coil.html?p=roundmulti&s=dp&r=0.2&str=2&awg=26&id=3

Yeah, good idea! I recommend this build, you could add one more wrap if you want to raise the resistance from 0.2 to 0.24 or so
This is two wires in each coil

With 26awg SS, you could do single wire dual builds, or a parallel build with 28awg SS to get the ohms you want and very fast ramp up

Isn't .2ohm to much pull on the battery?

LuI4wsx.png
 

zephyr

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Isn't .2ohm to much pull on the battery?

LuI4wsx.png

It's right near 20 amps which is what your battery is rated at, it's not too much

Add another wrap if you want 0.24 like I said
 

zephyr

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Bf by Vandy vape.

That's why I am worried of the amps. 15A should be pulled from a 20A battery, right?

You can pull up to 20amps continually from fully charged until the cell is depleted to 3 volts safely, that is what the continual discharge rating is for. Since we only pull current for a few seconds at a time, 20 amps is certainly safe to pull for your particular battery. To me, that is headroom - giving time between pulling power is headroom just like pulling fewer amps is headroom.

Or you could add one more wrap to get 0.24 ohms like you wanted

Also, as a mechanical mod, the Pulse BF mod cannot be run intentionally at 3.4 volts unless you plan on using your battery for a while in something else before putting it in the Pulse. Starting voltage is 4.2 volts but there is always voltage drop under load both from mechanical mods and batteries. Your mod is known to have a decently strong voltage drop, which means it will never run at a full 4.2 volts. For checking on amps drawn, start at 4 volts or so, this will be on the high end of what you actually pull from a fully charged battery in the Pulse BF.
 

hitti2

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zephyr

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I fixed it well another member helped me from Google+.
Fantastic vape. 24g ss316l dual coil .14ohm 6 wrap@3mm, bam. Ramps on first hit.

That dual pararell was ramping on 2nd 3rd hit, I could not stand it.

I will use this build till I get moar money for nichrome80 26g,28g just all the guage so I can start Clapton's

http://www.steam-engine.org/coil.html?mat=ss316l&s=dp&r=0.14&awg=24&id=3

Well, cool...that's like 28 amps which is way over what you were shooting for and your battery's rating, but whatevs you wanna do
 

fightinggoat

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Not sure where you are getting 2.6 volts from, the battery voltage on that mech is going to be 3.7-4.2 volts fully charged.

I run a similar build on my single battery mechs regularly with no issues using good batteries, but it’s a far cry from the very conservative amp numbers you were shooting for at beginning of the thread.
 

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fightinggoat

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Btw, Clapton’s are going to perform worse than what you are currently running now, they will have way more wire mass and your ramp up will once again suffer, no matter what resistance, they will ramp more slowly than a similar ohm build using single round wire.
 

hitti2

Bronze Contributor
Member For 4 Years
Not sure where you are getting 2.6 volts from, the battery voltage on that mech is going to be 3.7-4.2 volts fully charged.

I was under the impression that the coil draws or pulls from what ohms it's built for, why is steam showing 2.6v? Rather 4.2-3.7. As seen in the screenshot.

Edit:
I see now, that is for mod settings.
 

fightinggoat

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That little box at the bottom for mod settings, just shows how hot your vape will be at a certain voltage, it’s not all that important until you get the basics down and want to explore different builds.

The pulse mod is completely mechanical, it has no safety’s, or way to regulate the power. It will always give the coil battery voltage, minus a little for voltage drop, so if you put in a fresh battery, the mod will always give the coil 4.2 volts until the battery drains a bit.
 

hitti2

Bronze Contributor
Member For 4 Years
That little box at the bottom for mod settings, just shows how hot your vape will be at a certain voltage, it’s not all that important until you get the basics down and want to explore different builds.

The pulse mod is completely mechanical, it has no safety’s, or way to regulate the power. It will always give the coil battery voltage, minus a little for voltage drop, so if you put in a fresh battery, the mod will always give the coil 4.2 volts until the battery drains a bit.

Gotcha. I built a dual .26ohm 26g Kanthal a-1 3wrap@3mm. Max amp draw 16.15A. At least till I can get 20700 bats.
 

Carambrda

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Btw, Clapton’s are going to perform worse than what you are currently running now, they will have way more wire mass and your ramp up will once again suffer, no matter what resistance, they will ramp more slowly than a similar ohm build using single round wire.
Vape performance is not solely determined by ramp up time, but nevertheless I agree regular claptons are a waste. Fused claptons are not more difficult to make, yet are a fairly huge performance upgrade compared to simple round our parallel round wire IMO, but that's only if the fused claptons in question are using thin enough wire... you can't just wrap a pair of 26g Kanthal wires in 30g Kanthal and call it a fused clapton. (Actually yes you can, but....)
 

Zohmbiebuilds

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Member For 3 Years
Vape performance is not solely determined by ramp up time, but nevertheless I agree regular claptons are a waste. Fused claptons are not more difficult to make, yet are a fairly huge performance upgrade compared to simple round our parallel round wire IMO, but that's only if the fused claptons in question are using thin enough wire... you can't just wrap a pair of 26g Kanthal wires in 30g Kanthal and call it a fused clapton. (Actually yes you can, but....)
And some do. And it's a real shame a percentage of those people think that's a good vape. And a small percentage of those people think that's so fused Claptons wrote.

My advice, for better or worse is to always be on search for a better way. Fused Claptons work best 36g and up as a wrap wire.

Sent from my Z981 using Tapatalk
 

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