Deciding on what Tube Mod to buy - Need help!

[laserloui]

Hi there!

Finally its time for me to get my hands on a tube mod. I already have a couple of other mech mods but never actually bought or used a tube mode before.

I researched quite extensively about what mod i should buy and i came up with the following list. Important to me is, that the mod itself is short, sexy, black and easy to use. Battery rattle should be properly dealt with, contacts and threading should be nice and clean as well as the button should be nice. I doesn't need to be a hybrid but i guess there is no real reason to not take one. I have plenty of atomizers such as goon, csmnt, recoil, skill that i could put on top of it that have a proper 510 pin.

Besides all of that, i realized that having and using a tube mod seems to be quite a lot of work when it comes down to cleaning it, especially when they are made out of copper and/or have copper buttons/contacts/threading and so on. Aluminum Mods such as the new silver VGOD, Broadside (Black Version) and Petri Light are quite popular although they are not made out of copper.. so i suppose these non-copper mech mods are just hitting as hard or the difference is not that big?

List of tube mods that made it into my top 3 list.

• Broadside by BJ Box Mods
  • Anodized Aluminum Body
    
  • Silver contacts
    
  • Delrin lined tube
  • 94mm Height
  • 25mm Width
• Dotmod Petri Light v2 24mm
  • Anodized Aluminum Body
    
  • 24k gold-plated contacts
  • 81mm Height
  • 24mm Width
• VGOD Pro Mech Mod
  • Aluminum Body (Not sure what exactly)
  • Copper contacts
  • Delrin lined tube
    
  • 80mm Height
  • 24mm Width

I also looked at other tube mods, like the limitless and the subzero shorty but i always ended up between the VGOD and the Petri. Compared to these two, others are mostly a bit taller, so thats why i tend away from them.

What i am concerned about is the materials used in the VGOD and Petri. Is the aluminum good or bad? Do i need to clean everything as often and hard as full copper mods or does for example the gold plated contact inside the Petri makes things a lot easier? (the petri doesnt seem to have any copper parts at all).

Also.. are there maybe other mech mods out there i am not aware of? Everything under 150$ is fine. I would not like to go above that. What about the Danesa Mod? Duvo v3? Anything else?

I am most likely going to end up building fused clapton ohming out between 0.15 and 0.2ohms. I wouldn't want to go lower than that and start gambling. All i want is a clean, slick looking, black tube mod. I am not that into physics and have no clue about properties of materials... but what i have read so far seems that everyone says copper is super hard hitting and that it will tarnish over time that it is a pain to clean. Aluminum on the other hand seems to be much lighter, which results in a different feel holding the mod but doesn't seem to hit that hard. Gonna stop here... since i am already talking in too much detail about stuff i do not know enough about.

When i make a 100+ dollar investment, i want to make sure, to have a good mod with good contacts, threading, button, springs/magnets, coating and since i am lacy as fuck... it would be nice to not have to clean it that often.

Also what about:

• Hot Button Phenomenon???
  
• Aluminum Body having problems with heat dissipation?
• Copper vs Aluminum battery temperatures?

Maybe i've put too much thought into this... but i just wanna make sure, that i make the right call on this, since i am not rich, i wanna buy one mod, not have buyer's remorse and be happy with it.

EDIT: Excuse my shaky English, its not my native language.

 

[r055co]

I have both the Petri and the VGod, IMO the Petri is way over priced. Good Mod, really like it but not worth $120 for an Aluminum Mod... If I didn't get it for a half priced sale I'd be pissed.
The Vgod is a decent Mod, fair price only you're limited to devices due to it being a direct to battery/hybrid style. I like it though and use it a lot.

I have the Subzero Shorty, that is my favorite tube, love it. The Broadside copied the design and added an inside Delrin sleeve so that's a good Mod.

Also check out the Shiva Tube/Baal V4 combo by El Diablo, have a friend who has one and it's an amazing combo.

Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk

 

[r055co]

Hot button is due to poor conductivity usually due to dirty Mod. That or stressed Battery like building stupid low

Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk

 

[pulsevape]

you need a competiton mod.alot of tube mods were designed before people started building super low ohm...I have a couple of mods whose modders do not recomend building below .5, alot of that has to do with the spring they use in the button or the magnets losing their power... you may also want to add locking ring,and good venting into your list of must haves....I have found that silver plated contacts with rhodium coatings hit like a beast.

 

[laserloui]

Thanks for your feedback so far! I digged a little bit deeper and i was wondering about your thoughts on the Broadside / VGod compared to:
- Switch Mod v2
- Rig Mod v3
- Duvo v3
Any experiences?

 

[laserloui]

Another couple of mods that spark my interest:
- Comp Lyfe HK 24mm by Platinum Vapes
- The Trojan Hybrid Evolution Tube Mod by Trojan Mods Philippines

 

[InAbsentiaMods]

...really like it but not worth $120 for an Aluminum Mod...

Material IACS
(Electrical Conductivity)

2 Copper 100%
4 Aluminum 61%
5 Brass 28%

https://www.metalsupermarkets.com/which-metals-conduct-electricity/

I know there's other reasons people don't like aluminium, but in terms of performance I think it gets more flak than it deserves. Plus it doesn't tarnish or oxidise very easily so it makes a good material for being handled often.

 

[r055co]

Material IACS
(Electrical Conductivity)

2 Copper 100%
4 Aluminum 61%
5 Brass 28%

https://www.metalsupermarkets.com/which-metals-conduct-electricity/

I know there's other reasons people don't like aluminium, but in terms of performance I think it gets more flak than it deserves. Plus it doesn't tarnish or oxidise very easily so it makes a good material for being handled often.

It's a very inexpensive metal, that's why people like myself give overpriced Aluminium Mod's shit.

I've got a number of high end copper and pure silver mod's so I don't mind paying for quality. Price gouging is another thing

 

[InAbsentiaMods]

It's a very inexpensive metal, that's why people like myself give overpriced Aluminium Mod's shit.

I've got a number of high end copper and pure silver mod's so I don't mind paying for quality. Price gouging is another thing

That's totally reasonable, and I'd probably feel the same way if I could afford higher end stuff lol.

As it is I feel like I can capitalise on the industry's dislike of aluminium to be able to afford mods that would normally be out of my reach, so I should probably be thanking you

 

[r055co]

That's totally reasonable, and I'd probably feel the same way if I could afford higher end stuff lol.

As it is I feel like I can capitalise on the industry's dislike of aluminium to be able to afford mods that would normally be out of my reach, so I should probably be thanking you

Actually you can, Aluminium is an inexpensive metal. Well that is most, I do have a mod that is made from 7068 aluminium which is extremely expensive metal, was actually a classified metal until 2000.

Anyway a good machined mod you can produce for well under a $100. The dotmod like I said is a well machined mod along with the RTA, but in no way is it worth $210 for the Combo especially since it's manufactured in China. Like I said I do like it though, have been enjoying it but would have never gotten it without the %50 off sale they had.

 

[triakis]

As thick as the tubes are I would not worry much about the material of the tube. The contacts are much more of concern. And when they're a problem you'll know because they heat up. Even so, a hot button isn't wasting that much power.

The Rig V3 in all copper including the two post 25mm roughneck is a nice setup. I have the superbowl limited edition. (Falcons)

The Subzero shorty is excellent as well. Love the design of the switch. Nothing moves that touches the battery so arc pitting is of no concern here. With the silver contacts the thing hits day after day with no issues. And I'm talking 18ga competition builds here.

 

[laserloui]

Thanks a lot!
I was strictly looking for black tube mods because all my other atomizers and mods are black too. But this "all black or nothing" thingy kinda annoys me and thats why i was thinking about getting a BRASS broadside.

2 Copper 100%
4 Aluminum 61%
5 Brass 28%
https://www.metalsupermarkets.com/which-metals-conduct-electricity/

So is this probably i bad idea?
I really dislike cooper for its color... but i like the yellow / golden / tarnished look of brass.
Any concerns about how hard its gonna hit? Or how soft/hard is brass compared copper? People always say copper is very soft can needs a LOT of care and cleaning and you have to be careful since its so soft. Is this also the case for brass?

 

[triakis]

Those charts aren't really applicable in a sense if you read into it. A brass tube is going to hit only 28% as hard as a copper? LMAO! Of course it's not going to make nary a difference. If you were pushing WAY more current through a tube 100' long, sure...

Brass hits fine. My able hits as hard as my all copper rig and rogue tubes.
I have a 25mm Kennedy Ruby that's Stainless. Guess what? It hits great too.
If you build right it will be great. The type of atomizer matters most whether you're looking for vapor production or flavor or both.

Brass will ding up if dropped. If a tube hits the corner the damage could prevent you from unscrewing the button, a big problem depending on the impact.

 

[r055co]

Those charts aren't really applicable in a sense if you read into it. A brass tube is going to hit only 28% as hard as a copper? LMAO! Of course it's not going to make nary a difference. If you were pushing WAY more current through a tube 100' long, sure...

Brass hits fine. My able hits as hard as my all copper rig and rogue tubes.
I have a 25mm Kennedy Ruby that's Stainless. Guess what? It hits great too.
If you build right it will be great. The type of atomizer matters most whether you're looking for vapor production or flavor or both.

Brass will ding up if dropped. If a tube hits the corner the damage could prevent you from unscrewing the button, a big problem depending on the impact.

Brass hits fairly well, but my Aluminium, Copper and Silver Mod's there are a pretty noticeable difference. Another example is I have both the Boss (fully Copper) and regular (Aluminium/Brass) VCP's (both 18650 and 26550) and there is a noticeable difference with the Boss.

 

[triakis]

I have a Rig V3 and others have complained about it not hitting well.
Mine does.
Of course I keep my contacts, all parts necessary for low resistance, exceptionally clean.
Threads, everything.
If one has access to a FLiR device, even if it's the low end one that attaches to a phone, I suggest taking a look at your devices and seeing where they are heating up. You would be surprised how sensitive it is.

 

[anen]

Somehow, I have a hard time believing that we can even tell the real life difference in between copper and brass. Conductivity can not be judged, based upon two different mods made of two different metals, since conductivity, and construction of the switch is what is going to make most noticeable difference. Have copper and brass Roundhouse combos and can't perceive any difference as long, as there's a same built in there, but I could tell the difference in between copper Roundhouse and copper Subzero. When it comes to a tube mode, everything is in the switch, it depends on a switch how low you can build, even the battery life depends on it. Hot switch will dramatically reduce battery life, and make your life miserable in general. I am positive that "subOhm nazis" will disagree with me , but to each their own.

 

[r055co]

Somehow, I have a hard time believing that we can even tell the real life difference in between copper and brass. Conductivity can not be judged, based upon two different mods made of two different metals, since conductivity, and construction of the switch is what is going to make most noticeable difference. Have copper and brass Roundhouse combos and can't perceive any difference as long, as there's a same built in there, but I could tell the difference in between copper Roundhouse and copper Subzero. When it comes to a tube mode, everything is in the switch, it depends on a switch how low you can build, even the battery life depends on it. Hot switch will dramatically reduce battery life, and make your life miserable in general. I am positive that "subOhm nazis" will disagree with me , but to each their own.

I've got a Copper Sage and a Brass Sage, there is a difference and I'm certainly not a subOhm Nazi. I also normally vape around 0.18 - 0.22, sometimes higher when I'm in the mood.

Look at the chart for metal conductivity, pretty wide gap (100% copper and 28% Brass) -

https://www.metalsupermarkets.com/which-metals-conduct-electricity/

Material IACS (International Annealed Copper Standard)
Ranking Metal % Conductivity*
1 Silver (Pure) 105%
2 Copper 100%
3 Gold (Pure) 70%
4 Aluminum 61%
5 Brass 28%
6 Zinc 27%
7 Nickel 22%
8 Iron (Pure) 17%
9 Tin 15%
10 Phosphor Bronze 15%
11 Steel (Stainless included) 3-15%
12 Lead (Pure) 7%
13 Nickel Aluminum Bronze 7%

 

[anen]

Good thing that you are hyper sensitive in that aspect, so you can perceive the difference in between copper and brass tube.
I am not that lucky.
That is a nice chart, but we are not talking about rods of metal. Hope you didn't get bent over the "subOhm Nazi" term since I was not referring to you.

Mod is a contraption made of several metal parts, and there is always more then one metal involved. Voltage is lost at several different points, and amount of loss depends on a design and quality of machining. Shity designed mod will never hit as hard as good designed, and will always develop some "hot part" ,... Mostly switch. Hot switch is not a product of "low built" , it is product of bad design or machining, and low build will aggravate that issues. Have seen plenty of tubes being limited to 0.2 build , cause of poorly designed switch.
I run tubes (Roundhouse) at 0.07 with out any heating issues,...and can't tell any difference between materials at all. They hit hard as fuck and that's it.
How hard is mod going to hit depends on atty and what you put in it as well, it is way more complex then just material the mod is made of. If you really want a "hardest hitting " tube design, look around and figure out what mods are winning the comps these days, ...but do you actually need it? Are you ever going to build as low as these guys in comps?... There are other aspects to consider as well,.. Do you want : extra afety features ? Convenient to use or not? Easy to maintain? Certain esthetics? Bragging rights?,,,

 

[r055co]

Good thing that you are hyper sensitive in that aspect, so you can perceive the difference in between copper and brass tube.
I am not that lucky.
That is a nice chart, but we are not talking about rods of metal. Hope you didn't get bent over the "subOhm Nazi" term since I was not referring to you.

Mod is a contraption made of several metal parts, and there is always more then one metal involved. Voltage is lost at several different points, and amount of loss depends on a design and quality of machining. Shity designed mod will never hit as hard as good designed, and will always develop some "hot part" ,... Mostly switch. Hot switch is not a product of "low built" , it is product of bad design or machining, and low build will aggravate that issues. Have seen plenty of tubes being limited to 0.2 build , cause of poorly designed switch.
I run tubes (Roundhouse) at 0.07 with out any heating issues,...and can't tell any difference between materials at all. They hit hard as fuck and that's it.
How hard is mod going to hit depends on atty and what you put in it as well, it is way more complex then just material the mod is made of. If you really want a "hardest hitting " tube design, look around and figure out what mods are winning the comps these days, ...but do you actually need it? Are you ever going to build as low as these guys in comps?... There are other aspects to consider as well,.. Do you want : extra afety features ? Convenient to use or not? Easy to maintain? Certain esthetics? Bragging rights?,,,

I'm certainly "not" hypersensitive. But saying that a 72% difference has no effect?

OK what ever you say

 

[Mike H.]

I don't have a single mech mod that doesn't show 4.2v to the firing pin while firing it...Doesn't matter if its aluminum, SS, copper or even silver....If you don't have 4.2v at the 510 you need to check on your mod..Its not until you install an atty or tank and install coils that you will see a voltage drop...The ohms of the coils itself changes voltage or creates a voltage drop.

Those who use those "in-line" meters and fire your mod to check for voltage drop are being lied to...Those type of meters use a certain resistor that creates a load on the battery and causes that voltage drop..There is no way that resistor simulates an actual coil build nor does it care what material your mod is.

Most all mods that are worth anything use copper or silver coated/copper as contacts anyways..doesn't matter what the tube is made of.

4.2v is 4.2 no matter what the battery is but of course its the amps were concerned about.

Your build makes it hit hard or not hit hard.

 

[r055co]

I don't have a single mech mod that doesn't show 4.2v to the firing pin while firing it...Doesn't matter if its aluminum, SS, copper or even silver....If you don't have 4.2v at the 510 you need to check on your mod..Its not until you install an atty or tank and install coils that you will see a voltage drop...The ohms of the coils itself changes voltage or creates a voltage drop.

Those who use those "in-line" meters and fire your mod to check for voltage drop are being lied to...Those type of meters use a certain resistor that creates a load on the battery and causes that voltage drop..There is no way that resistor simulates an actual coil build nor does it care what material your mod is.

Most all mods that are worth anything use copper or silver coated/copper as contacts anyways..doesn't matter what the tube is made of.

4.2v is 4.2 no matter what the battery is but of course its the amps were concerned about.

Your build makes it hit hard or not hit hard.

OK then there is no difference between how Nickel, Kanthal and SS hit because it's all the same.

OK if you say so ..............

 

[Mike H.]

OK then there is no difference between how Nickel, Kanthal and SS hit because it's all the same.

OK if you say so ..............

Take a real volt meter to the mod and not some "In-Line VAPE meter" and see how much voltage you have at the 510 while you fire it..let me know what you find out...Be sure to try it on different material tubes if you have them.

 

[r055co]

Take a real volt meter to the mod and not some "In-Line VAPE meter" and see how much voltage you have at the 510 while you fire it..let me know what you find out...Be sure to try it on different material tubes if you have them.

Apples and oranges, it's "responsiveness".

If you're talking about with an atty attached, I have. And I do get a couple points better from Copper and Silver.

 

[Mike H.]

Ive gotten 3 different results using 3 different copper mods...Id worry more about the build and quality of the atty itself as that plays the biggest part than what material the mech mod is made from...They all should have actual battery voltage at the 510 when fired.

 

[r055co]

Ive gotten 3 different results using 3 different copper mods...Id worry more about the build and quality of the atty itself as that plays the biggest part than what material the mech mod is made from...They all should have actual battery voltage at the 510 when fired.

There is a difference, like I said for example I have a fully Copper Sage Mod and one in Brass, there is a noticeable difference. I also have a rather sizeable collection of Copper, Brass, Aluminium, SS and even pure Silver Mods. The Silver, Copper and Aluminium mods all hit rather close to each other. Brass hits decent but not like the top 3 and SS even though I like the durability don't come close to the top 3, even though they have copper connections.

Saying there is no difference even though there is a large % in conductivity is like saying there's no difference in SS, Nickel, Kanthal, etc. wire.

 

[Mike H.]

There is a difference, like I said for example I have a fully Copper Sage Mod and one in Brass, there is a noticeable difference. I also have a rather sizeable collection of Copper, Brass, Aluminium, SS and even pure Silver Mods. The Silver, Copper and Aluminium mods all hit rather close to each other. Brass hits decent but not like the top 3 and SS even though I like the durability don't come close to the top 3, even though they have copper connections.

Saying there is no difference even though there is a large % in conductivity is like saying there's no difference in SS, Nickel, Kanthal, etc. wire.

So youre saying an atty has to be attached to the mod before the difference in material makes a difference in conductivity although there already is, as power makes its way to the 510 before it reaches the atty?

 

[r055co]

So youre saying an atty has to be attached to the mod before the difference in material makes a difference in conductivity although there already is, as power makes its way to the 510 before it reaches the atty?

It's called "resistance", how easily the current flows with the least amount of resistance. Think of it like a current of water

 

[Mike H.]

so, its not the coils/atty causing the "resistance"?..Is the resistance shooting back into the mod and because the mod its a copper or silver tube the resistance is less?

 

[r055co]

so, its not the coils/atty causing the "resistance"?..Is the resistance shooting back into the mod and because the mod its a copper or silver tube the resistance is less?

So you're saying the current doesn't flow through the Mod?

 

[Mike H.]

Why would I say that when its already flowing current to arrive at whatever the battery voltage is?

 

[r055co]

You're stating that material makes no difference and resistance in the mod has no effect on how the current is delivered. Well the math does not support that. You're saying that resistance does not affect the Sag when the button is triggered, again that math does not support that nor does the experience.

In any case believe what you want to believe, call it what you like. But there is a difference in responsiveness whether you believe it or not. If you refuse to believe than that's OK. I'm certainly not going to try to convince you.

 

[Mike H.]

I was referring to voltage

I don't have a single mech mod that doesn't show 4.2v to the firing pin while firing it...Doesn't matter if its aluminum, SS, copper or even silver....If you don't have 4.2v at the 510 you need to check on your mod..Its not until you install an atty or tank and install coils that you will see a voltage drop...The ohms of the coils itself changes voltage or creates a voltage drop.

Those who use those "in-line" meters and fire your mod to check for voltage drop are being lied to...Those type of meters use a certain resistor that creates a load on the battery and causes that voltage drop..There is no way that resistor simulates an actual coil build nor does it care what material your mod is.

Most all mods that are worth anything use copper or silver coated/copper as contacts anyways..doesn't matter what the tube is made of.

4.2v is 4.2 no matter what the battery is but of course its the amps were concerned about.

Your build makes it hit hard or not hit hard.

I was discussing Voltage...Are you referring to amperage maybe traveling with less resistance maybe?..because voltage is certainly 4.2v at the 510 no matter what material it is.

 

[Mikhail Naumov]

Mike, I'm here to tell you most everything you've said is bullshit. I'm an electrical engineer, for credentials.

Resistance works by, resisting, current and that resisting is what creates the heat. The more current it resists, the more heat it produces. This is why for wiring and contacts you only ever see materials like copper, gold, silver and etc. in sleds and for contact material. These are non resistance materials, though nothing TRULY has ZERO resistance. They have something called micro resistance. Here's why this is important.

NOT ALL MATERIALS IN THE NON RESISTANCE CATEGORY ARE OF THE SAME RESISTANCE.

So, this will affect conductivity. In any high end electronics, like MRI machines and shit, you'll only find copper and silver for the most part. There's a reason for that, because copper and silver are more conductive than gold and nickel. This is because they have a lower mico-resistance.

The reason you get 4.2V out of your volt meter is because there is no electrical load. You truly need to educate yourself, because this is stupidity. There are TWO main factors that effect your end voltage. Voltage drop, which is minor but DOES exist and has to do with the MATERIALS OF THE CONTACTS and how long the electrical path is. Then there's battery sag, which happens internally on the battery. With a .08 build on a single 18650 copper tube mod, say you have a fully charged 4.2V cell in there.

Guess how much voltage is hitting the atomizer? Around 3-3.2V, ON A FULL CHARGE. Because after drop and ESPECIALLY after sag (higher power = higher sag, internal resistance of the battery affects this too) you're not getting that full charge.

Get something that can measure your voltage UNDER LOAD and watch how fast the rug gets ripped out from under your world. Ever wondered why the voltage meters inside DIY box mods shoot down a good amount when firing? That's why.

Please stop spreading misinformation, this is electricity, misinformation can hurt or kill.

 

[Mike H.]

I made my factual statement in my first post.... Can you prove me wrong?...If you want to discuss something different and turn it into a different discussion we can do that but my first post was clear enough as to what I was discussing and that was; No matter what mod material was used youll get the actual battery voltage at the 510...I think I even noted that it drops under load as an atty/coil build is attached to it.

Those inline mod meters are a crock of shit and I stand by that statement for life...As an Electrical engineer expert can you tell me what ohm the resistor inside that junk meter is assuming?..I guess we can find the voltage drop and do some math to figure it out but I figured you know the answer from the top of your head and can save me some time.

Turning it into conductive properties (under load) is what someone else turned it into which has no bearing on my first post...so I had some fun with it.

So thank you Electrical Engineer #5,241 on VU for setting me straight and saving the world.

 

[anen]

Mike, I'm here to tell you most everything you've said is bullshit. I'm an electrical engineer, for credentials.

Resistance works by, resisting, current and that resisting is what creates the heat. The more current it resists, the more heat it produces. This is why for wiring and contacts you only ever see materials like copper, gold, silver and etc. in sleds and for contact material. These are non resistance materials, though nothing TRULY has ZERO resistance. They have something called micro resistance. Here's why this is important.

NOT ALL MATERIALS IN THE NON RESISTANCE CATEGORY ARE OF THE SAME RESISTANCE.

So, this will affect conductivity. In any high end electronics, like MRI machines and shit, you'll only find copper and silver for the most part. There's a reason for that, because copper and silver are more conductive than gold and nickel. This is because they have a lower mico-resistance.

The reason you get 4.2V out of your volt meter is because there is no electrical load. You truly need to educate yourself, because this is stupidity. There are TWO main factors that effect your end voltage. Voltage drop, which is minor but DOES exist and has to do with the MATERIALS OF THE CONTACTS and how long the electrical path is. Then there's battery sag, which happens internally on the battery. With a .08 build on a single 18650 copper tube mod, say you have a fully charged 4.2V cell in there.

Guess how much voltage is hitting the atomizer? Around 3-3.2V, ON A FULL CHARGE. Because after drop and ESPECIALLY after sag (higher power = higher sag, internal resistance of the battery affects this too) you're not getting that full charge.

Get something that can measure your voltage UNDER LOAD and watch how fast the rug gets ripped out from under your world. Ever wondered why the voltage meters inside DIY box mods shoot down a good amount when firing? That's why.

Please stop spreading misinformation, this is electricity, misinformation can hurt or kill.

Will you be so kind to put that in a perspective of single battery mechanical mod, since mod is not a piece of xy gauge wire? To my understanding gauge ( thickness or mass) have significant effect on resistance as well as contacts( every threaded surface of the mod, spring, 510). Any wire scheduled to use in 110V app. has less material per linear inch than a mech mod that runs only 4.2 V.
To me it seems that there is plenty of material available for current to take a path of least resistance, and that conductive property of the material is secondary to design and execution of the points of contact. Thank you for your time.

 

[Mikhail Naumov]

I'm an electrical engineer, you two are vape peasants. You two also have nobody else backing you. I need not prove electronics fact and law to two idiots who can just blow off a finger and be better off. Sorry.

Will you be so kind to put that in a perspective of single battery mechanical mod, since mod is not a piece of xy gauge wire? To my understanding gauge ( thickness or mass) have significant effect on resistance as well as contacts( every threaded surface of the mod, spring, 510). Any wire scheduled to use in 110V app. has less material per linear inch than a mech mod that runs only 4.2 V.
To me it seems that there is plenty of material available for current to take a path of least resistance, and that conductive property of the material is secondary to design and execution of the points of contact. Thank you for your time.

Your understanding is entirely wrong and you can google this to find out, I'm not your teacher.

 

[anen]

Appreciate your highly educated answer. As an " electrical engineer " in serbia you must be part of the Royalty I guess Mile you are fucking idiot.
Sljiva I gibanica idiot. Lol.

 

[r055co]

Appreciate your highly educated answer. As an " electrical engineer " in serbia you must be part of the Royalty I guess Mile you are fucking idiot.
Sljiva I gibanica idiot. Lol.

He may be blunt but he is dead on.

While I'm not an Electrical Engineer in any sense but I do have enough common sense to do a bit of research (google is a wonderful tool BTW). I've picked up a lot from watching Mooch's interviews, a lot.

I suggest you do the same, it's not that difficult.

 

[Mike H.]

Copper and aluminum are so far apart on the gauge of conductivity but in reality its only one gauge apart when it comes to a single strand of solid wire..whatever an 8g copper wire can handle, an aluminum wire can handle the same one gauge thicker...All of these tube mech mods can handle 30amps based on the amount of material being used in the tube itself..Its unlikely a company would sell an aluminum mod knowing it cant handle 30 amps or the resistance so high it burns someone as the metal gets hot....Will copper "TRANSFER" that power quicker and cooler in general?..yes it will but, it doesn't mean if you use an aluminum mod or an SS mod its gonna blow up on you...Just don't build beyond your batteries limits on any mod and you can enjoy whatever material mech mod is being made...If you want to spend $500.00 for an all silver mech mod so your vape heats up 2 tenths of a second faster and the mod stay cool than so be it.

Take any mod and compress or roll it into a single strand of wire of its original length and any of them can handle 30 amps as a piece of single strand wire...The battery contact material can be a determining factor in a mods performance..so we have a tube material capable of handling our batteries under load but maybe a shitty 510 pin or cheap spring/button holding it back making it hot.

So, knowing this, I feel its more the build and atty that makes the biggest difference in mech mod performance.

 

[conanthewarrior]

I recommend this mech a lot, and it is simply as it is my favourite in the collection, and also available cheaply, the Wotofo Phantom.

It comes with both a standard 510, and also a hybrid style connection so you can use either. It is made from copper, which I know you wanted to avoid, but is coated and available in black, I have it in white. Don't let the copper put you off, it is very easy to maintain.

The contacts are very good and Rhodium plated, and I tend to use SS316L at around 0.25-0.3Ohms. I have built lower, and not noticed any issues such as heat in the fire button, or where it should not be.

I haven't noticed a difference myself between my copper and aluminium or SS mods in regards to battery temperature, but I am not often running super super low builds.

The broadside is one mod I am looking to add myself to the collection too though, currently a clone as it is available cheaply and is meant to be good quality.

 

[ej1024]

Check this out
USA MADE FOR CHEAPS
https://www.ebay.com/itm/191580275374


I ️

 

[Chainvapor]

Actually you can, Aluminium is an inexpensive metal. Well that is most, I do have a mod that is made from 7068 aluminium which is extremely expensive metal, was actually a classified metal until 2000.

Anyway a good machined mod you can produce for well under a $100. The dotmod like I said is a well machined mod along with the RTA, but in no way is it worth $210 for the Combo especially since it's manufactured in China. Like I said I do like it though, have been enjoying it but would have never gotten it without the %50 off sale they had.

Mass produce for under $100 yes. Short run of just a few mods NO. I have been a machinist for over 25 years and quality product costs a lot of money to produce. Most machine shops charge between $75 and $100 per hour. If anyone can make all the parts for a mechanical mod in an hour, please pm me because I will hire you immediately.

Happy Vaping Everyone! CV

P.S. Not trying to be a dick, I just know the costs involved.

 

[laserloui]

I am probably ending up with a Brass Broadside. It needs to be 24/25mm and of course use 18650 batteries.

 

[r055co]

Mass produce for under $100 yes. Short run of just a few mods NO. I have been a machinist for over 25 years and quality product costs a lot of money to produce. Most machine shops charge between $75 and $100 per hour. If anyone can make all the parts for a mechanical mod in an hour, please pm me because I will hire you immediately.

Happy Vaping Everyone! CV

P.S. Not trying to be a dick, I just know the costs involved.

Well I'm not addressing =< 100 Mod's either.

Context, it's all about context

Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk

 

[Chainvapor]

Well I'm not addressing =< 100 Mod's either.

Context, it's all about context

Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk

Agreed. If mass produced, there is no reason a quality mechanical mod can't be sold for around $50 to $60 dollars. But by mass produced I am taking about a minimum of 1,000 units. Anything under that would likely be a bit more expensive. Especially if made in America. Cheers!

Happy Vaping Everyone! CV

 

[njmechlyfe]

Those charts aren't really applicable in a sense if you read into it. A brass tube is going to hit only 28% as hard as a copper? LMAO! Of course it's not going to make nary a difference. If you were pushing WAY more current through a tube 100' long, sure...

Brass hits fine. My able hits as hard as my all copper rig and rogue tubes.
I have a 25mm Kennedy Ruby that's Stainless. Guess what? It hits great too.
If you build right it will be great. The type of atomizer matters most whether you're looking for vapor production or flavor or both.

Brass will ding up if dropped. If a tube hits the corner the damage could prevent you from unscrewing the button, a big problem depending on the impact.

I know this is an old post but have you ever even compared mods? I use the same build and atty (apocolypse V2) to compare my mods. I run nichrome aliens that I aim for .9 but come in around .8 on average depending on lead length.

My authentic av timekeeper revolver ss felt like a toy when I threw the atty on it compared to my brass hk25 and copper able. Regardless of numbers I find brass to hit almost as hard as copper.

My aluminum mods with brass buttons are a step down from brass and copper (still a good vape) but unless you build real high ohms SS mods with ss switches simply will NOT hit as hard.

Your battery is gonna read 4.2 in any mod. It'll also read it on a multimeter. It's the voltage drop you experience and I'll tell you the SS av revolver I GAVE TO MY GIRL. It looked great but it hit like shit IMO.

you get the least battery say with copper and I don't find brass to he far behind with power regardless.ofnthe numbers. In fact my brass mods hit equal or generally harder then an aluminum mech with brass button.

I'm speaking from.real life experience. 4.2v vtc 5as .9 build same atty and my able or shorty will just DESTROY a SS mod. Even when o through solid silver contacts.

But you do you buy those SS mods all you want it's your money.

If you don't like cleaning copper get it cerakoted and the main is practically zero.

Proof is my own tests. It's the voltage sag killing you.

Brass is a great choice for Mech mod if you're not looking for the best hardest-hitting thing available besides silver, solid silver not silver plated. That's the bottom line I will take it to my grave but by all means post us a video and show us one of your stainless steel mods firing as hard as that's a mod in copper. Unless maybe you build like point five ohm coils or something I'm sorry man but you have no clue. Don't post misleading shit your fucking people over.

 

[njmechlyfe]

I recommend this mech a lot, and it is simply as it is my favourite in the collection, and also available cheaply, the Wotofo Phantom.

It comes with both a standard 510, and also a hybrid style connection so you can use either. It is made from copper, which I know you wanted to avoid, but is coated and available in black, I have it in white. Don't let the copper put you off, it is very easy to maintain.

The contacts are very good and Rhodium plated, and I tend to use SS316L at around 0.25-0.3Ohms. I have built lower, and not noticed any issues such as heat in the fire button, or where it should not be.

I haven't noticed a difference myself between my copper and aluminium or SS mods in regards to battery temperature, but I am not often running super super low builds.

The broadside is one mod I am looking to add myself to the collection too though, currently a clone as it is available cheaply and is meant to be good quality.

Not sure if you made your buy but SOI has non blenished limited edition copper mods with a Chris cross design. Beautiful setup. Paid 110 for the mod copper cap deck everything but the 510 connector which I don't use because o only use the SOI attys on their mods direct thread.

Also there's come good deals on ebau for aithwbtic complyfe brass and copper mods because they had them on super sale for like 90 bucks.

Also my cerakoted black blenished SOI was perfect couldn't find the blemish

 

[triakis]

Anyone that says what the TUBE is made from makes a discernible (vaping) difference is only fooling themselves. My Sub zero-X tubes in copper, brass and SS hit identically the same. This has been scientifically proven and is fact. I own over $15k in mods/devices and collect them at this point.

The weakness is and has always been in the switch.
Better designs will never use moving parts that make and break the contact on the battery itself.
As much as I love my Rigs, I have to say the clutch design is simply superior and never do you have to worry about battery contact pitting and/or damage.

And my average build is 90 milliohms cold.

Of course a multimeter will read the same on any mod. Before telling anyone they don't have a clue please educate yourself and use the proper tools for the job! A multimeter is a high impedance device so it's not designed to load the circuit when testing voltage. You can put a 20,000 (20k) OHM resistor between your battery and your multimeter and, yes it will still read 4.2V.

If you're building .9 (900 milliohms) on a single tube mech you're definitely do it wrong!

LMAO!

 

[conanthewarrior]

Anyone that says what the TUBE is made from makes a discernible (vaping) difference is only fooling themselves. My Sub zero-X tubes in copper, brass and SS hit identically the same. This has been scientifically proven and is fact. I own over $15k in mods/devices and collect them at this point.

The weakness is and has always been in the switch.
Better designs will never use moving parts that make and break the contact on the battery itself.
As much as I love my Rigs, I have to say the clutch design is simply superior and never do you have to worry about battery contact pitting and/or damage.

And my average build is 90 milliohms cold.

Of course a multimeter will read the same on any mod. Before telling anyone they don't have a clue please educate yourself and use the proper tools for the job! A multimeter is a high impedance device so it's not designed to load the circuit when testing voltage. You can put a 20,000 (20k) OHM resistor between your battery and your multimeter and, yes it will still read 4.2V.

If you're building .9 (900 milliohms) on a single tube mech you're definitely do it wrong!

LMAO!

What do you use to measure a 90 Miliohm build? Devices that can read that accurate cost a LOT of money. Just wondered how you know it is accurately that resistance, especially on a mech mod. Nothing wrong with building at 0.9 either in my opinion, better than 0.09 lol.

I agree though that mods hit the same, assuming the same thickness of tube. The loss's are negligible, so small I doubt anyone could notice in a blind test.

 

[DDarko]

I'm certainly "not" hypersensitive. But saying that a 72% difference has no effect?

OK what ever you say

That doesn't matter when you're comparing 2 hollow tubes of metal that aren't actually conducting electricity. Even Mooch himself has stated that the material of a tube doesn't matter in how hard a mod "hits", all that matters are the contacts and the build. Why would the material of a tube that's not having any electricity passed thru it affect the way a mod vapes? It wouldn't cuz that just doesn't make any sense. Now if we're talking about what the contacts are made of, then yes you might notice a difference, but based on 28% for brass and 100 for copper, I don't think that means that if a mod has brass contacts that the battery is only gonna put out 1volt cuz it's 28% of copper which is putting out 4.2v. Idk maybe I'm not getting it but as far as I know the tube itself doesn't affect the vape