Differences in Preheat and Draw Strength on mods

[Swaglife81]

So as Ive been in the market to buy a major ADV mod that I won't need to upgrade to no matter what I have a few questions.

First I want to say I'm 100% comfortable with coils, amps, watts, etc etc but as I've been researching the 1000's of mods I'm wondering if some of this stuff is useful or gimicks to sell a mod with the customer thinking it's a better chip. I'm looking at mods and chips like cars. All of them are different in some ways but they all do the same thing.

Now for the questions....

Preheat - What is actually going on, is this just a boost in wattage/volts in a tenth of a second than back down to your requested wattage or temp? My mod like others, I press the fire button and a half second before vapors start coming. Preheat make this delay time reduced ?

Mods like Smok and everybody else have the strength setting, draw setting. Is this just another preheat or is it some type of buck boost technology producing a more equal curve of power the whole time the mod is fired?

I feel in 2017 with the technology at our disposal I shouldn't have to settle for less to get options. I think companies at least some are on the right track. Not just DNA mods at Apple prices

Thanks in advance

 

[fraleywp]

I think Smok is a good bet for wattage mode. Also, iJoy has a user custom power curve setting. My understanding of the Smok setting is it only affects the ramp up speed, or preheat if you will. It definitely works though.

 

[HondaDavidson]

Draw strength to me is how hard you suck..... preheat or power curves adjust how much power will be applied and when.

Manufacturer like to make up new names for stuff.... makes it seem like they have done something new.

Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk

 

[lordmage]

with smok mods modes soft,normal,hard that is a ramp setting that is used to determine how fast it will reach your set wattage. with soft>normal>Hard i find that each setting works best at different pull times to produce the same outcome at the same wattage. soft at 92 watts 3 second draw normal at 2.7 seconds hard 1.5 seconds.

 

[Mattp169]

IMHO all these things are useless. TC, preheat, strength etc. Sure they let you customize. but why?
all you want to really do is vaporize ejuice. this is accomplished by heating a coil.
Find the right coil for you and the right amount of power it needs to make you happy
All the rest is gimmicky
i have 3 mods with TC - I tried it and have not used it but for a few weeks
I have had mods with strength settings - it changed the vape but I could always adjust the power setting to adjust it
Never had a DNA but never felt the need.
I always go back to simple power mode
I use dual coils
simple claptons made of SS
ohms are about .6
and I use about 50 watts of power.
Thats what I like
I do not need strength setting, tc or preheat

I use simple simple mods now. They use a basic PWM chipset, a potentiometer to adjust power, and have an led to tell me the voltage left in my batteries so I know when to change batteries before leaving the house

They simply work - no worries about anything. I push the button it tastes good

Plus devices like this are usually serviceable and FDA proof

All the parts minus the 510 are made for things not vape related from the case to the battery sled to the buttons to the chipset itself. All of it will be availalble in the future. Most parts nowadays are between $3-20 each which includes a good chipset. All you need is some rudimentary soldering skills to repair anything that may go wrong.

My advice is to forget all the gadgets and get a simply mod like a hexohm, dimebox or some other well made PWM mod.

If you really want a fancy do everything mod... look at the hohmwrecker. Proven design - proven chipset

 

[HondaDavidson]

IMHO all these things are useless. TC, preheat, strength etc. Sure they let you customize. but why?
all you want to really do is vaporize ejuice. this is accomplished by heating a coil.
Find the right coil for you and the right amount of power it needs to make you happy
All the rest is gimmicky
i have 3 mods with TC - I tried it and have not used it but for a few weeks
I have had mods with strength settings - it changed the vape but I could always adjust the power setting to adjust it
Never had a DNA but never felt the need.
I always go back to simple power mode
I use dual coils
simple claptons made of SS
ohms are about .6
and I use about 50 watts of power.
Thats what I like
I do not need strength setting, tc or preheat

I use simple simple mods now. They use a basic PWM chipset, a potentiometer to adjust power, and have an led to tell me the voltage left in my batteries so I know when to change batteries before leaving the house

They simply work - no worries about anything. I push the button it tastes good

Plus devices like this are usually serviceable and FDA proof

All the parts minus the 510 are made for things not vape related from the case to the battery sled to the buttons to the chipset itself. All of it will be availalble in the future. Most parts nowadays are between $3-20 each which includes a good chipset. All you need is some rudimentary soldering skills to repair anything that may go wrong.

My advice is to forget all the gadgets and get a simply mod like a hexohm, dimebox or some other well made PWM mod.

If you really want a fancy do everything mod... look at the hohmwrecker. Proven design - proven chipset

Your rant calls for a pure diy mod.... as that is the only way to go around FDA.... diy is possible with ppm or a regulated or protected mod..... but any idiot can go to Lowes plumbing section and build a tube mech. Piece of pipe a couple caps a drill and a tap you got a tube mech.


Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk

 

[Mattp169]

Your rant calls for a pure diy mod.... as that is the only way to go around FDA.... diy is possible with ppm or a regulated or protected mod..... but any idiot can go to Lowes plumbing section and build a tube mech. Piece of pipe a couple caps a drill and a tap you got a tube mech.


Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk

Actually I have to dimebox mods I wouldnt call them or a hexohm a DIY mod. There are several custom mod builders out there making mods exactly as I describe.

 

[HondaDavidson]

Actually I have to dimebox mods I wouldnt call them or a hexohm a DIY mod. There are several custom mod builders out there making mods exactly as I describe.

But that's the point.. between you and any costume builder stands the FDA...... now i suppose you can go around the FDA or they may be looking elsewhere. But they are there.

Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk

 

[Mattp169]

what I am suggesting is invest NOW in these mods while you still can. Ive spoken to people who actually make pwm chipsets used in these mods. They believe they can last at least a decade or more of use. SO you get one now before the FDA can stop you. If it breaks after the FDA prohibits you from buying mods like the ones we have available today, its easily repaired for a low cost. The FDA can not stop you from buying the replacement buttons or potentiometer or volt meters or wire or solder or battery sled or even the box itself. these are all commonly available parts in the electronics world, unlike the proprietary boxes and chipsets used in say a P4Y, kanger, smok, or most dna mods. The 510 is simply a threaded hole with a piece of metal connected to a battery, so it may need cleaned and it could strip, but its unlikely to need replaced and if so I would think there is an easy enough solution to do this in the future regardless of the FDA or any other gov't restriction.

Noone knows what the future will truly bring for vaping. I have no intent of not vaping 10-30 years from now. I may not be vaping but if I am I want to be able to use what I am using now. I dont feel proprietary mods will last that long. I had several that didnt last a year. I do feel my 2 dimeboxs will last decades, but may need a repair or 3 during that time and I am capable of doing those repairs regardless of gov't restrictions. when my ipv d2,3li and 5 finally die they will be trashed. the d2 and 3li have been going strong for about two years now and show no signs of stopping, the d2 even survived being dropped in the dish water. SO maybe they will last 30 years, maybe not. But I know repairing them could be done, but replacing the chipset will be next to impossible in a few years especially since those 2 boards are already quite dated. SO finding a new board that will fit the proprietary box and line up with the already existing led hole and button holes may be an issue.

I'm just giving my 2 cents on the matter. The OP wanted to know about preheat and draw strength etc. I feel they are gimmicks to a point. They can change the vape but you can do the same thing with a different coil setup and power setting for the most part. Fine tune the coil you like, find the power you like it at and get a durable long lasting mod that looks good to you and is comfortable to use. Most of the features in many new mods aren't really needed and a simple well built PWM mod can do teh job as well or better then any mod on the market today for the majority of vapers out there IMHO
I also feel custom style PWM mods have an advantage in longevity over a brand name mod because of the reasons I have stated above.

Agree or disagree, just my opinion and thats all

 

[Swaglife81]

Thanks for the replies guys. Preheat and strength do things but nothing I can't adjust on my own with a coil build or SS and TC setup etc.

 

[HondaDavidson]

Fwiw my $25 Eleaf Pico 75. Has those features tuning Arcticfox firmware.... got a year on mine so far. Works better today than the day i got it. At $25 Can Stock Up FOR future. But then I got my cReo and Tube Mech to keep me from smoking. Somewhere I have my old AA boxes if the shit really hits the fan.



Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk

 

[semeyson]

sx g class mini.... spend the extra but get the curve... Other modsime the Minikin and Tarot have it as well. Iike it because it lets me pulse hit and that makes my coils last way longeg while still getting the satisfaction of a full strength vape.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N910A using Tapatalk

 

[Swaglife81]

sx g class mini.... spend the extra but get the curve... Other modsime the Minikin and Tarot have it as well. Iike it because it lets me pulse hit and that makes my coils last way longeg while still getting the satisfaction of a full strength vape.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N910A using Tapatalk

I know what it means to pulse a coil and I understand CCW or CCT but what do you mean by Pulse Hitting? Higher watts/temp at first and level out each .5 second. Seems when I hear someone say pulse hit, like a up and down thing. 450 watts to 350 watts to 450 watts, etc for the first 2-4 seconds. Is that right?

 

[wally]

IMHO all these things are useless. TC, preheat, strength etc. Sure they let you customize. but why?
all you want to really do is vaporize ejuice. this is accomplished by heating a coil.
Find the right coil for you and the right amount of power it needs to make you happy
All the rest is gimmicky
i have 3 mods with TC - I tried it and have not used it but for a few weeks
I have had mods with strength settings - it changed the vape but I could always adjust the power setting to adjust it
Never had a DNA but never felt the need.
I always go back to simple power mode
I use dual coils
simple claptons made of SS
ohms are about .6
and I use about 50 watts of power.
Thats what I like
I do not need strength setting, tc or preheat

I use simple simple mods now. They use a basic PWM chipset, a potentiometer to adjust power, and have an led to tell me the voltage left in my batteries so I know when to change batteries before leaving the house

They simply work - no worries about anything. I push the button it tastes good

Plus devices like this are usually serviceable and FDA proof

All the parts minus the 510 are made for things not vape related from the case to the battery sled to the buttons to the chipset itself. All of it will be availalble in the future. Most parts nowadays are between $3-20 each which includes a good chipset. All you need is some rudimentary soldering skills to repair anything that may go wrong.

My advice is to forget all the gadgets and get a simply mod like a hexohm, dimebox or some other well made PWM mod.

If you really want a fancy do everything mod... look at the hohmwrecker. Proven design - proven chipset

Watt mode, tc mode are good enough the rest are just a gimmick. The tc mode is good if used right.

 

[Carambrda]

Still not a fan of TC mode on any mod I tried it on, but Arctic Fox custom curve preheat in VW mode does work for me because a bigger coil has more ramp up despite I'm still using an all relatively thin fully Nichome80 alien coil that I built myself some time ago for my 24mm Goon RDA. With my RX300 the dots in Arctic Fox that make up my custom curve are spaced only .1 seconds apart so that it finally makes actual sense to use a preheat that only lasts .5 seconds. I can't always take my PWM or mech with me to every place I go, so...